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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Hi Nils - either the pins are very big or the rail is very small. It looks great.
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- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
- passenger steamer
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Thank you Michael. And I just happen to have some tripod legs sitting in my scrap box. It must be destiny.
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I spent much of my spare time this weekend finishing the deck house doors. I made the 3rd set of hinges and was finally happy with them. In particular my soldering was much improved. Getting the hinges in the right position proved vital for smooth operation. In the end I took the pins out and mounted the hinge halves separately. Accurate cutting out of the hinge recesses proved to be a key aid to correct positioning. Having mounted both doors I spent a few hours making the door handles (matching the originals in so far as scale and skill) would allow.
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Julie It looks pretty good to me. The grain in the natural wood finish is bound to distract the eye and mask the definition of the transom. Strangely it would probably have been more defined if it had been painted in a colour but that wasn't your choice which is fine. One option would be to put a further layer of planks over the transom in a toning but darker veneer. Alternatively rather than cutting in a darker plank overlay a darker edge plank to follow the contour and then fill in by overlaying the existing transom planks with another layer.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
KeithAug replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Pawel, It is true craftsmanship to make the things you can't see as well as the things you can see. You show great dedication to your craft. -
Michael - you could just stop the restoration and go into 3rd hand production. I'm sure you would find many buyers.
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John Thank you for your comments and thanks to the rest of you who have hit the like button.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
KeithAug replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Pawel Will the below decks detail be visible once the deck is in place? It would be tragic to loose sight of all of your lovely work. -
The exterior of the crew hatch now has 4 coats of poly. I guess one more coat will do it. I will also need to paint the inside I have gone back to the deckhouse and had a go at the deckhouse doors (2 off). I started with the door jambs. These were made over wide with the positions for the hinges accurately cut on the table saw. The hinge cuts were made in a plank before strips were sliced off. Thus ensuring the the position of the hinge cut outs were identical for both doors. The strips were glued to the frame and once dry they were reduced to the correct width. Effectively leaving 5 separate pieces of door jamb on each side. The hinge cut outs were then removed with a chisel. In parallel I made the doors. Both doors were made joined - they will be separated later.
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Beautiful work Alex. I was intrigued by the press for the hull plates. You refer to 'poverhnostyami.Izgotavlivayu stamp" but i can't find a translation. Did you make the press and if so how? Keith
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Michael /Bob Thank you for continuing with your support and comments. I have now coated the hatch with a few coats of poly and its looking quite smart.
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I decided to have a bit of a diversion from the deck house and made the crew hatch. The detail on the plans was really quite scant. I tend to rely on internet photos where the plan is less detailed than desirable, however in the case of the crew hatch virtually nothing was available. I was left to rely on the "how would I have done it?" approach. In particular the doors are a figment of my imagination. After all if they don't exist it's going to be pretty wet below. I started with the sides - cut to shape from 1/32 inch ply and then clad in mahogany. I decided not to make the hatch cover mobile but represented it partially open - to give a bit of a view inside (although not much to see) I did however make the hatch tracks correctly as a "c" section. The "c"was constructed from 3 planks each .030 inch thick. To get the curve the wood was soaked in boiling water and then the body of the hatch was used as the former. Note the wife's cotton used to hold the planks in place while drying and thereafter gluing. Some time later all was complete and ready for the poly. This gives an idea of scale. The callipers are set to 1 inch.
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John Only the mechanical ones. I never really got electronics being from ABC (the "age before calculators"). My only concession to technological advancement was speeding up my slide rule by dusting it with talcum powder. Maybe I should enrol in a crash course in miniaturised electronic instrumentation!
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Hi Michael - I don't have holly, its difficult to get over here, I could cut down the tree in the front garden though! I finished painting the internals of the deckhouse prior to assembly and also finished the instrument panel. The mahogany came up a treat. Looking at the photo I have just realised that I have left the chart drawer out. The gauges are turned from .25 inch brass bar and the face is plasticard punched out with a leather hole punch. The square gauge is cut off from .25 inch square section aluminium tube.
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Julie - re shaping the transom. Yes, as you say, one approach to the transom wold be to use card folded along the centre line and then cut. On Altair I actually drew the shape on card using a bit of geometry. However Altair isn't as sleek as Endeavour so the folded card method may be better.
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Druxey Thank you taking time to look at my log. Your generous comments are much appreciated.
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Michael Some of the original paintwork looks a bit rough and ready - is it just the photo magnification or is it a fairly indifferent brushed finish? Your biggest problem may become toning down your normal quality!
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Hello Mark. Photo's of the cabin incorporated in the display is a good idea that I hadn't though of, thank you for the prompt.
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Hi Julie That looks much better doesn't it. Im surprised they didn't advise it in the kit instructions as it would have made the stern simpler to plank. Keith
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A bit more progress on the cabin. The front and back were constructed along the same lines as the sides - made a bit more complicated by the curve at the top. I remeasured the curvature of the top which although made at a radius of 4 inch had sprung out to a radius of 5 inch. Not a problem but I was glad I checked before making the front and rear. A few photo's------ I templated the top mahogany strip before shaping it on the disc and spindle sander. The front has 2 window and 2 inset panels. The rear has 2 windows - i still has yet have to attach the door jambs with the hinge cutouts. The chart table top was also made and attached above the chart table drawer. Also the instrument panel facia was made and attached to the inside of the front. The panel itself is made from 2 pieces of mahogany with the grain matched as a mirror image. Not easy to see this but it felt good doing it. A few more images with the walls held in place by an elastic band at this stage.
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Julie I think the form of the transom on the kit is incorrect and it should be better defined. The underlying issue is lack of definition in the shape of the frames. I didn't spot the issue when I was building but if I had I think i would have created the definition at the 1st planking stage and then 2nd planked the transom axially - i.e fore and aft. this is what I did on altair.
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