KeithAug

Glen - it only works with CA glue if you plan to leave a varnished wood finish. If you try to use PVA it leaves a blemish. PVA is ok if you are going to paint.

Keith - I just took it as an innocent and sensible question. No need for any apology my friend.

Keith - Ann is fairly ok with Cangarda. We have a large playroom that was vacated by the children many years ago and finished models generally go in there. It's when we inevitably downsize that the problem is going to occur and some difficult choices will have to be made.

Thank you Andy - i wasn't aware of such devices. I do a bit of internet searching.

Keith - I can't remember if anyone has asked. I am building at a scale of 1:24 so from the above:- LOA = 5'9" LOD = 5'3" LWL = 4'3" Beam = 9" Draft = 3.8" I hope you are both keeping well. Best wishes.

Printing seems to be a quick process these days. I last had a look at printing 7 or 8 years ago when most people seemed to have to try, try and try again before the printer produced something usable. I assume printing is a much more user friendly process these days?

Well that turned into a bit of a non event. A typical case of overthinking the problem on my part. The curve that I was worried about is a bit over emphasised in the next photo. I had tried bending the 1/32 ply around a dowel of slightly tighter radius than I needed (allowing for a bit of spring back). Bending the ply dry wasn't working so I boiled up some water, lashed the ply to the dowel with rubber bands and dunked it in the water. Almost instantly the ply became compliant and pulled tightly against the dowel. I then left it overnight to dry out. To get rid of the sharp discontinuity between the small and large radius ends of the plywood strip I repeated the process for the large end using a much larger radius former. It is easier to sand the hull without the compensation plates in place so I had another go over the entire hull with 180 grit paper. The individual planks have now blended together pretty seamlessly. The next step was gluing the compensation plates in place using PVA glue. It was pretty easy to get clamps on the edge nearest the bulwark but I had to revert to the use of pins on the opposite edge. The holes will have to be filled but this isn't a problem because they will be painted over. The not so tricky curved piece was then glued to the aft part of the hull. It was tricker to use clamps here because of the presence of the building board, so I just used pins. Because I didn't wreck the aft piece I didn't use the scarf joint as recommended. Maybe i will remember earlier next time. The starboard side went on equally easily. As I work on the hull I find blemishes and defects which need to be fixed. I keep a pot of sanding dust handy to address these. I dribble a few spots of CA glue on the defects and dust it over with the sanding dust. Once dry a bit more sanding usually cures the problem. That's all for now folks.

Sorry to hear that Nils, I hope she recovers quickly. Best wishes.

The diorama work is all very educational Glen. Thanks for the lesson.

You are making me jealous again. Lovely river adventure.

Ah! the shipyard reopens. Welcome back to building Brian. Your lightsabre produces remarkably clean work, the windows in particular look wonderful.

lovely job on the navigation lights and buckets Valeriy. I had to magnify the buckets to see how you had done the handle connection. A cunning piece of visual deception. Very effective.

They are quite common Keith. A granddaughter favourite.

A youngster then Ras. Many more modelling years left to add to your fleet.🙂

Beautifully done. Does fido have a name?

A lovely little schooner. Excellent work.

A short but sweet build log. She turned out rather fine.

R Ras - thank you for your kind offer. If I am not mistaken Zulu has the simpler non feathering type of paddle wheel. The ones that Eberhard posted were feathering paddle wheels. You probably know the difference but this video explains it well - I was thinking about making the feathering type so unfortunately Zulu's plans don't help a lot, but thank you anyway.

I have always thought it would be fun to make a large working model of a paddle wheel. I have often seen Waverley on my sailing trips around the Hebrides and watched her paddles with interest. Maybe after Cangarda is finished I will have a go.

You are underselling her Steven. I think she looks rater cute.

Another good idea for the fallback position Michael. I will probably try the bending option tomorrow and see how I go. I think I have a lot of you guys waiting in anticipation.

Thank you Steve, Mark, druxey, Gary. As I have already cut the pieces I am going to have a go at bending them first using boiling water. There is a danger that they won't bend enough or that they might split but as they already exist it is a no loss situation. I agree that the double 1/64" ply solution might be better so I will keep that in reserve. I should have used a scarf joint as Steve suggests so if the bending fails I will incorporate that mod into the replacement bits.

Beautiful build.

Raz - yes that works. I tend to be a bit frugal with my use of wood so I use an MDF block with the pre cut side planks held on it (at the correct angle) with double sided tape. Once the step slots are cut I remove the side planks by brushing a bit of white spirit on to the MDF to break the bond. Because the side planks are already the correct size I don't have to cut the shallow angles and therefore no need for a taper jig. We all have senior moments, in fact mine are the dominant type of moment.

Handsome little fleet Andy. Let's hope they sell well. Presumably the buyer gets an authentication certificate?