KeithAug
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Hi Keith. Georges said - Hello Keith, I just looked at the whole build for the third time, and am increasingly impressed with the quality of the workmanship. After finishing The Endeavor (in 2011 version) I had decided to ride a Schooner and had considered the Eleonora, but your presentation made me change my mind, and I am modestly starting this Germania Nova. I don't plan for a second to reach such a level of quality, but your post represents assembly instructions of such quality that I hope to arrive, thanks to you, at an acceptable result. I apologize for the post in French, but my level of English is terrible and I prefer to trust the translator. I am starting this boat and will publish this assembly on La Royalemodelisme. Thanking you again for the joy that the sight of this publication has given me. I replied:- Thank you for commenting and good luck with your build. If you need any help with any of the plans or photographic detail please let me know. I am willing to bet your English is far superior to my French so I hope the translator makes sense of this reply. -
Andy, Montagine, Keith, Chris, CPDDET, Brian, Greg, Eberhard, Gus, Druxey, Pat, Gary, Mark. Thank you all for cheering me over the finishing line and of course thanks to everyone who watched and cheered my efforts in this egg and spoon race. I must really try to run faster on the last lap next time. I must also catch up on other builds.
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Georges Merci pour le commentaire et bonne chance pour votre construction. Si vous avez besoin d'aide avec l'un des plans ou des détails photographiques, faites-le moi savoir. Je suis prêt à parier que votre anglais est de loin supérieur à mon français, alors j'espère que le traducteur donne un sens à cette réponse.
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Keith, Druxey, Mark, Rick. Thank you for your comments. Fortunately here are the final few photos. I was having some trouble extracting these from my phone but a teenager helped and sorted me out. So this is the final batch. Thank you for everyone who has supported me throughout the build. I usually take some time off before I commence my next project so this will be my last post for a while. But as ever I will be supporting the rest of you during my period of inactivity.
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Hi Keith, I think the critique of experts is by far the most valuable resource and what better review group that all my MSW friends. Gary, Eberhard, Andy, Gus - thank you all for your comments. I not getting much modelling done at the moment. My son and daughter have added to my wife's list of home improvement jobs. Never mind. I am approaching the end of my build log photos but here is the next batch. Probably two more batches left after this lot.
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I agree with the comment above. I bought the saw and find it invaluable. I bought a cheap (eBay) disc sander to go with it and modified the table to accept the saws mitre gauge - this gives me all the accuracy I have ever needed at a fraction of the cost of the Byrnes disc sander. My advice would be not to try to convert the saw to become a disc sander. The though of sanding grit getting into the saw mechanism doesn't fill me with glee and I thinK you would be forever switching the saw between saw and sander.
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Proper Technique for Jim Byrnes Saw
KeithAug replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Chris - A few pictures to illustrate what you are doing would help a lot with diagnosis of the problem. All the above comments are pertinent but to be absolutely sure the photos would help. I regularly rip long lengths of 1/4 inch mahogany using a .032" slitting saw blade. This isn't the easiest of jobs but generally it works fine. I have have to say however that a lot of variables come into play which can undermine the process. These include. - The dryness and type of wood. (Some wood don't cut easily, and some that do cut easily don't always cut easily. I sometimes find switching one piece of wood for another cures the problem). - The run of the grain ( the grain is rarely parallel with the edge and the blade can try to follow the grain - sometimes cutting from the other end cures the problem ). - Pressing the wood too hard against the fence ( can cause the plank being cut to progressively thicken (due to blade flexing) - creating a taper effect. Keep the pressure towards the fence positive but light). But as I said earlier - more info would help with the diagnosis. -
Thank you Valeriy, Druxey, Pat, Gary and Brian. Also thanks for all there thumbs ups. The next bunch of photos:-
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Zocchi - Yes - that is what i meant.
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Wonderful woodworking skills.
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Yes Roger. The android ancestors of the human race will be sending in their microbots to crawl over all of our creations and they will wonder why we went to so much trouble when we could have constructed them as "hard light" holograms.
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I recall reading a book on ship modelling in which the writer commented that one should never display a photograph at a scale larger than life size. This good advice seems to be universally disregarded by MSW contributors.
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Valeriy, I had noticed that and assumed it was used for low speed manoeuvring. given the exposed position it would seem untenable to use it during action or in a seaway.
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I finally got round to taking some photos so over the next few post I will publish them.
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Eberhard - I think I had picked that up from one of your earlier comments and had assumed that in such circumstances that trining the gun would have been required. Grounding seems to be a bit of a dicey concept given the flat bottom and limited freeboard / buoyancy. I bet they had some anxious moments waiting for the suction between the hull and the mud to let go.
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Eberhard - I have to agree with Phil that the gun is particularly magnificent. Firing the gun on the beam must have been a particularly unwelcome job for the bridge crew.
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Impressive start Valeriy - and very quick.
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Some of the hull lines look a little bit odd. it might just be the shading effect - is that the case?
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Very interesting Valeriy. I would have been tempted to go for a larger scale.
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A very interesting project. Good luck.
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Roger - it is highly probable that your eyesight is better than mine as I need my cataracts done. Below are the 4 shots showing the internals of the main deck house. These are the only ones which show the dining table. What I think I see is a mirror behind a silver cup and above this a cabinet that may contain glassware. Are these the ones where you see a model?
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Brian I am never very sure about MDF but i suppose for display models it is both cost effective and stable. I suppose i am too set in my ways. I need to get out more! I agree with bob re slow progress. Seems really quite fast to me.
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Ras - Thank you for explaining. I was aware that in some photos the sponsons were not obvious. What you say about recoil makes a lot of sense.
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