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Everything posted by KeithAug
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I was quite enjoying hearing about all your youthful misadventures. The kids of today will be thinking you are all delinquents.
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Impressive bow shot. What is the chain for?
- 88 replies
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- Australia II
- Finished
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Looking like a very interesting build. I think I’ll tag along.
- 20 replies
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- De 13 Søskende
- sail
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Maybe it works better in the northern hemisphere where it was made😁😁 bath drain effect 😁- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Mini spot welder to weld railing
KeithAug replied to modeller_masa's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I can think of a number of pros and cons for welding vs soft soldering. Why are you preferring welding? -
Yes Brian, our generation seemed to have lots of risky toy opportunities. My chemistry set even had a bunsen burner which I used for a bit of glass blowing. The kids today don't know what they are missing. On the theme of safety I hear they have pulled Humbrol enamel paints because of safety concerns. My understanding they are reformulating them prior to relaunch. In my experience "reformulating" is a euphemism for making stuff worse at doing its job. All of us who have used Humbrol paints since childhood should be considering legal action.
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Eberhard I left Rolls Royce in 1978 and joined BNFL based at Risley but working mostly on Sellafield projects. Initially I worked on Magnox reprocessing projects before moving on to take over the flowsheet design for the Thorp plutonium purification plant. I then moved on to waste treatment and was responsible for the design of the low active effluent treatment plant. After that it was solvent treatment as mentioned previously. Then Three Mile Island and Chernobyl happened and everything changed. I left BNFL in 1988 and moved to brewing where I damaged a lot more peoples lives than I ever did with nuclear energy.
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Yes I agree. I was once in charge of a team looking into options for treating waste solvent from a nuclear reprocessing facility. The waste solvent (tributylphosphate in odourless kerosene) was stored on site and we needed some way of treating it. One of the chemists came up with the idea of reacting the solvent with hydrogen peroxide and for a while this became the front runner of the options. It never inspired me as a great option as it seemed too much like rocket fuel to me. Anyway it was eventually dropped as an idea.
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Keith, yes it all depends on the type of plastic. Have you ever ever tried mixing hydrazine with peroxide - it makes wonderful rocket fuel and has even been known to dissolve pilots😬
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Not long ago I shipped a pair of collet chucks (1kg) from the Uk to Australia using the Royal Mail. The shipment went via air mail and cost £19 which I thought was pretty decent, it didn’t take long either. Everything was above board with all the correct customs declarations etc. It seems to me that some shipping costs are reasonable while others seem exorbitant. If I judge the total cost (price plus shipping) to be unreasonable I just don’t buy. In the instance of the 2 collects I actually bought them in the Uk for another msw member and he paid me for them and for the shipping via PayPal. This may be an option for some of you struggling with unreasonable shipping costs.
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Hi Keith, I am using Beadalon wire and the spec says the wire is nylon coated. I cut 3 different diameters of beading wire and placed them in sealed container of 99.8% acetone and left overnight. In the morning the nylon was pristine, showing no degradation. I then looked up the compatibility of nylon with acetone and found the compatibility to be “excellent” ( I.e acetone does not dissolve nylon ). Acetone does however dissolve a range of plastics. As an aside the acetone I have was bought in a plastic bottle - so clearly some plastics are acetone resistant. When you commented “It works” I am guessing you did a bit of experimenting? Dan, Tom, Keith, Hakan, thank you for your continuing interest and comments.
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Dan - thank you for the comments - I think I have sorted out the link but let me know if it doesn't work.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Very impressive rope planning Pat. Is your rope walk a home design or a commercial unit?- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Stunning Rob, Im sure your museum colleagues will be in raptures.
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- clipper
- hull model
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I did a bit more work over the last couple of days. I finished off a number of medium sized single, double and triple blocks. The 3 sizes I have rationalised on are 5mm, 6mm and 7mm high. Depending on the use / location of the blocks they have various attachment fittings. I also needed to make more of the strop brackets for the main and foremast gaff bridles (5 in total). This time however I was a bit more economical making 3 parts from each fabricated ring. I then moved on from the main boom to work on the main and fore gaffs. Two single blocks were attached to the main gaff saddle. These will take the main boom topping lifts (one on each side of the mainsail). Then a double block was attached to the gaff to take the gaff hoist halyard. I then attached the 3 bridles to the main gaff. (I did this before yesterdays debate on simulating the leather protecting sheath). Depending on the outcome of experiments I may have to revisit this. Two blocks are attached to the end of the gaff to take the sheets for the topsail. I also attached the twin bridles to the fore mast gaff. I then attached the blocks for the for topsail sheets as per the main gaff.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
KeithAug replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
That is what I have used it for. Strips of about 1/2 inch wide twist very easily.. -
Mark - it burns off quite nicely. You set fire to one end and then it burns almost like a fuse. It does create a molten blob so the trick is to blow out the flame and then quickly draw the wire between the thumb and fore finger to remove the blob. Then you utter an expletive and remember next time to wear your gloves. The problem is the burning discolours the wire strands in a way that isn't easily rectified. Really you need the wire to retain its shiny stainless steel look.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
KeithAug replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
If I am understanding correctly why not use 1/32" birch ply, glued in place with PVA glue. I have used this in the past for bulwark strengthening webs and it worked fine. I would steer away from balsa as it isn't very durable. Sorry if I have misunderstood. -
Well remembered Keith, indeed it is, although she hasn't been called Splodge for a while now. At nursery school they all use her given name of Eve but in the family she answers to Bean. I think "Bean" will stick with her forever. Her mum brought her to the workshop to show her Germania. I pointed out the picture of Maisie (the Dalmatian) in the porthole and I removed the deck house to show her the picture of Bean. She then rushed back to the lounge and reappeared with Nanny to show her the pictures. It was after this that she decided to stay and do her work. Steve I will do a test piece. My guess is that acrylics will flake and enamels will form beads. The wire is covered with clear plastic (which looks and feels a bit like nylon) and i am dubious about the adhesion. Pat - Yes you can get small bore heat shrink. The wire is .020" diameter and the problem is that small bore heat shrink seems to have a reasonable wall thickness. It more than doubles the diameter of the strops and this makes them look unnaturally heavy. Thank you Eberhard for the apron explanation. Thank you all for the nice Bean comments - unfortunately she is not for sale.
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Wonderful Brian, I hadn’t thought of sanding practice. I obviously missed the “training productivity” aspect of her visit, thanks to all of you for pointing it out.
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