KeithAug

Druxey, Gary, Bill and Jon, Thank you all for your kind comments. It seems amazing that I started this build 3 years ago - how time flies. My hope is that some time this year I will get started on another build. As I get older I find myself rejecting long duration projects!

Mark -, preferably steel or brass - for removing excess solder.

Great project. I must have seen her while visiting the museum, but don’t recollect. I look forward to seeing her develop.

So now we know, it was you who was responsible for initiating Chinese world manufacturing dominance.

The internet is festooned with small wire brushes for Dremel type drills. My experience is that most of them are rubbish. They either disintegrate or wrap themselves into a tight ball. Can anyone recommend a source of high quality small rotary wire brushes? By small I mean up to 1" diameter.

Very nicely done Rob - I must remember that.

Jon - In Scotland the wind always dies about 5 miles before the anchorage which inevitably means that the hook only goes down as dusk descends. Just as the last rays of sunlight fade the wind starts blowing at about 25 knots directly into the mouth of anchorage. My sailing pal says it is due to diaurnal variation but I just think winds are perverse. Jon - That's not too bad. I find it much worse when i leave the model all ship shape and then turn up the next morning to discover all the failures.

Brett - alternatively look up Gerald A Wingrove - he has written an number of books and you can find some of his work on MSW. Sadly Gerald is no longer with us. RIP.

Brett - this would be a good start:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Model-Building-Brass-Ken-Foran/dp/0764354949

Arrrrgh! You have all shattered my dreams. I thought Valeriy had discovered some way of only making the solder go where he wanted it to go. I am a broken man!

The crew are obviously a bit pedantic about sanitary cleanliness. Don't you think that a bit of realism in the pan might add to the overall effect?🙂 Perhaps the door should be slightly ajar, with a glimpse of the seated occupant smoking his corn cob pipe.😀 You can see that I am very taken with your Bogs. Your work is beautifully neat as always.

Jon - I always struggle with making the sails look full. In the end I convince myself that its the end of a perfect day, the wind has failed and the crew have decided to partake in a round of gin and tonics before taking the sales down. This makes the set of the sails perfect.

Remarkable!!!!!!!

Valeriy - your soldering is always very neat. You must tell me how you keep it so clean.

Mysteries are the best bit. Great work.

Eberhard. Yes I agree, it is a bit odd.

I moved on to gaffs. They were again made from mahogany dowel turned to the correct maximum diameter (the taper being left for later). The gaffs have features which in the majority lie on 0, 120 and 240 degree radial orientations. To make rotational location easy I drilled 3 location holes on a extension to the finished boom and then used these holes for location. I needed to cut 2 x .040" wide slots along the lengths of the gaff ad i did this on the table saw using a simple jig. A square cut out was made in a piece of scrap wood equal to the diameter of the gaff. A hole was drilled for a locating dowel. The gaff was mounted and the slot was cut with the saw fence bearing on the jig. With the slots cut the ends were milled to take the gaff saddle brackets. The .040" slots are for the wear strips - made form .040" brass wire. The wear strips are not continuous so I inserted thin strips of mahogany (cut to the correct length) to segment the slots. With this done I then sanded the tapers on both ends of the gaffs (the slots were deep enough not to be removed by the tapering). The brass wire wear strips were glued in with CA. The second gaff was made in the same way. Straps for locating the gaff hoist lines are positioned at the 120 and 240 degree rotational positions. The straps were cut from brass sheet and when drilled were inserted on pins so that the end radii could be filed in one operation. The gaffs were drilled to take the pins for the straps and the straps were mounted. The straps for the saddle were cut and shaped to fit the previously machined slots. The hoop and the end boss was also turned and milled. The straps were blended to the shape of the boom using a file and then the hoops were fitted.

Arctic - it would be good to know more about this please?

Amazing detail - very impressive.

Hakan - Have you got a jewellers saw? Ideal for jobs of that sort and relatively cheap. If you get one invest in decent blades. The ones that come with the saws are usually poor.

Whatever happened to those beautifully elegant cargo vessels, alas their modern replacements have all the elegance of a floating brick. At least modellers can record their passing.

Hi Richard - True, but it might keep some excitement in my life.

Thank you Pat, Richard and MCB for your comments, and thanks to everyone for the likes. Pat - I think i have not been as good at polishing of late however my general process is machine finish, polish with 600 grit wet and dry, then polish with 1200 grit, then 2400 grit and then finish with Brasso liquid polish. I generally tend to accept that brass ages however if I really want to prevent this I use Renaissance, Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. A bit expensive but excellent for maintaining the shine for years. Update:- From an earlier post, Eberhard thank you - modified radar. You may also recall that I doubted the strength of the shackle attachment to the turnbuckles. That is the lower end in the next photograph. I proved they were not strong enough when rigging the bowsprit - Pinnnng!! Although not as accurate I modified all of them as follows - old version top - new version bottom. The mod involved using a vey small split pin made from .020" x .040" section brass strip. They are now much stronger and when not subject to close inspection they look fine. The bowsprit was rigged with .024" Beadalon clear coated multi strand steel wire. I bought wire guards to simulate thimbles and keep things neat. The end of the wire was stripped, threaded through a 1mm ID by 1.2mm OD tube then through the wire guard and then back through the tube. The loop was secured with a drop of CA and then heat shrink tube was used to simulate the leather protective sleeve. The "large" file in the photo is a standard needle file. I rigged the port side bowsprit shroud very tight to correct a slight bow in the bowsprit. This worked very well. Until --------- after about an hour ----- pinnnng. The attachment to the hull was too weak and parted company. The small bracket had been soldered to a 1/16" spigot and then inserted to a hole in the hull. The solder failed. The bracket was attached to a 3/32" spigot and reinserted. Thus far this has held despite the tension in the cable. The starboard bowsprit shroud didn't quite need as much tensioning and in consequence the hull bracket held (thus far). The bobstay was rigged next, again with a fair degree of tension.

Quite a complicated bowsprit rig, very interesting. I'm not sure it is a boat for a squall? Thank you for the block size details. I need to make many in 3 sizes large 7mm, medium 6mm, small 5mm. Looks like being a lot of fun but i will need to think about simplicity of production.

Engines very nicely done.