KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Nicely done - I hope the fires are keeping their distance. -
Thank you all for the positive comments, and thanks for all the thumbs ups and visits. Keith - As with previous builds I doth think I will bother. The very shiny brass looks a bit unrealistic and I quite like the way it naturally tarnishes as the model ages. It almost gives it a life. I'll be getting on with installing the brass work on the deck over the next week or two and then it will be a suitable time to get post some general views of Germania. Michael - I think collet blocks are a godsend, they make life a lot easier. One of my best workshop buys of recent years. Pat - it is an optical illusion - I didn't include any. 4 of the brackets don't have any and I guess they must be bolted in place from below the deck:- the two on the stern rail have 4 bolts each but I decided I didn't really have enough room at 1/36 scale to get them in. A bit sloppy I know, but I have to draw the line somewhere. Thank you John - you made me laugh out loud.
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Very clean work Michael. I may be being thick but I didn't quite get how you cut the sloped dado?
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A particularly mild January is making the workshop more inviting. The temperature today hit 13 deg C which felt almost Mediterranean. A few hours each day for 3 days saw the shock absorbers completed. The mounting brackets for the shock absorbers are formed from a series of curved and flat surfaces and I thought it would be nice to reproduce the form. I had a good ponder on the best approach and in the end decided it would be better to make each bracket in 2 parts consisting of the boss and the base. I started with a large scale sketch. I drew it accurately because I needed to be precise about the centres of the curves. I then got on with the manufacture of the base. I took a 1/4" brass rod and mounted it in a square collet chuck. This was placed in the mill vice and centred on the cutter. A 0.160" diameter cutter was then used to plunge cut the end. The x and y axis were then reset in accordance with the drawing and a 0.200" diameter cutter was used to plunge cut either side of the bar. The bosses were then turned on the lathe. The next step was to join the 2 parts using soft solder. This was done without removing the rod from the collet block. It was then back to the mill where the final shaping was done with the side of a 0.160" diameter end mill. The rod was then removed from the collet bock and mounted in the lathe. A locating spigot was then turned. Followed by a bit of polishing. The brackets are somewhat smaller than the sketch. I then mated the brackets with the shock absorber to see what they looked like. The next step was to make the shackles - this involved a bit of precision bending. The wire is 1/32" diameter. I made all 6 and attached them to the pegs on the shock absorbers. The spring in the wire holds them quite securely and they function as required. I then checked what they would look like on the plinths. Satisfied with progress I have stopped for the day.
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Newbie starting with J-Class Endeavour
KeithAug replied to Sananda's topic in New member Introductions
Sananda, Welcome. You will find a number of build logs for Endeavour if you use the search facility. I built one a few years ago (link below my name) and if you need help don't hesitate to ask. A build log is the best way of getting advice from a wide range of excellent builders. Good luck. -
Nice method on the yolk Bedford. I hope the winds are kind and blow away from you.
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Coming along nicely Michael. I have that model of exacto razor saw, but mine only dates from 1990. I am on my second blade though. I like the fence - I hadn't tought of doing that but will in future.
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I agree with Michael, is is hard to tell wether I am looking at a model or the real thing. Excellent workmanship GL.
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Michael -When I rechecked I realise I bought it from Amazon - not eBay. I was really surprised how cleanly it cut and how nice the turned finish was. It is Polyoxymethylene, more commonly called acetal, polyacetal and polyformaldehyde. it is an engineering thermoplastic and is used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and good dimensional stability. It comes in a range of colours and diameters. Hubert / Mark - thank you for your kind comments, I do appreciate them. Also thank you to all of you who have visited and or liked my work.
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Thank you Michael and Pat. I made a start on the shock absorbers - starting with a sketch. Each shock absorber is made from 22 components as follows;- Rubber donuts - 6 Brass donut spacers - 5 shaft - 1 Fixing brackets - 2 Shackles -2 Shackle boss - 2 Shackle pegs - 4 Quite a lot to pack into a small space. I bought some black plastic rod from eBay which machined very well. From this I made the rubber donuts. These were turned as a tube on the lathe and then parted off to length (.060") using the circular saw. They tended to turn out a couple of thou over and were taken back to size using 600 grit wet and dry paper. The brass spacers were similarly turned but in this case they were parted off on the lathe. As the spacers were only .010" thick the parting tool had to be very sharp to avoid distortion. The shafts were turned from 3/32" rod. The shackle bosses were made from 3/16 rod. The shackle peg holes were cross drilled on the mill before the bosses were made on the lathe. It took a few hours to make up 3. The spare donuts were intentional - but in the end not required. To get the shackle pegs a consistent length I turned them and formed a shoulder on the lathe. I then glued the pegs in place and cut off the peg at the shoulder using a jewellers saw. And that is as far as I have got at present.
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Very nice work Kees. Its good to see you back in the shipyard.
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- wilhelmina vii
- fishing
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Ah! I thought it had the look of a "Percy".
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Michael is it based on an actual engine? Nice work on the interior - I will be interested to find out what the end game looks like.
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Thank you John. Not a lot of progress but I have glued on the stern rail and given all the rail 4 coats of poly. Painting does slow things down. I was thinking that the next task would be making the shock absorbers for the main sheet and the fore sheet - 3 in total. At scale size they are about 0.8 inches long - so a lot of detail in a small space. I made a start by making, painting and installing the 2 deck plinths (the stern shock absorber sits directly on the rail without a plinth. The stern rail was then attached with PVA glue and sanded to blend. It was then on with the poly - the 4th coat is currently drying.
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Dan = excellent, but I am sorry to see the journey end, the sea looks perfect. I look forward to the next project.
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- leviathan
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Yes - and with each couple of years that pass you will need another 50% increase and yet another expensive upgrade from the optician. The good news however is that you stop seeing the imperfections (at least until you see the photographs). The shackles look pretty good to me - well done.
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Thankyou all who have visited my build. I got on with finishing the cap rails. The next step was to make and attach the inner and outer "D" section planks items 2 & 3 in the photo. I started by cutting a thin plank 3/4" wide by .075" thick. As before the length was about 8 inches short of the hull length necessitating attachment of an extension piece. The "D" profiles were shaped on the edge of the 3/4" plank using a scraper ground from a box cutter blade and then the edge was cut off .0625" wide. I repeated this 5 times to get enough length for the 4 rail edges plus the extension pieces. The edges were then attached to the previously installed central part of the rail using PVA wood glue, carefully applied with a fine brush. I did this in steps of about 8 inches. Once glued the "D" strips were held in place with various clothes pegs / bulldog clips. The next photo show the junction of the extension piece. All 4 edges were done following this process. A light sanding then blended out the edges between the 3 planks. I stopped the laminated approach to forming the rail about 2" from the stern. Here the curvature and the changing width of the rail necessitated a different approach. To finish the stern rail I started by making a paper template which was in turn was used to make a 3/16" plywood template. To this plywood template I attached .075" thick mahogany with a glue stick. The mahogany was then shaped and removed from the template in preparation for installation on the bulwark.
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John / Pat - thank you for the advice, I followed up on your suggestions. Fortunately the stopper is really quite small at the scale size so any inaccuracies in interpretation wont be too noticeable. Druxey - good point - I have renamed it "Wife Keeper", the alternative of having her attend the cold workshop may have had the opposite effect.
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I am doing a bit of looking ahead. For a while I have been trying to get a bit more information on the chain brakes / guides that sit immediately aft of the hawse pipes. I have a few pictures but they don't make the design of the devices very clear.Each seems to consist of a pair of smaller hemispheical plates immediately behind which sits a larger pair. The latter pair seem to have a handle pointing rearwards at about 40 degrees. The anchor chain runs between the plates. My guess is that the smaller pair have a chain pulley between them. I have done an internet search but not found anything that looks like this, but I'm sure some of you may have some ideas??????
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Pat - I usually think things through well ahead of doing them. The problem is that I often forget what I have thought of and create work as a result. I used to have a good memory but senility may be setting in. I ploughed on with the capping rail and finally arrived at the stern. About 8 inches of extension plank had to be added. I had worried about the difficulties somewhat before starting the cap rail but it proved to be fairly straightforward. I am reminded of Winston Churchills quote "I remember the story of an old man who said on his deathbed that he had had a lot of trouble in his life, most of which never happened". The rail is now ready to receive the inner and outer "D" shaped side pieces.
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John - Yes the news is full of it here - it sounds pretty horrific. Wishing everyone a safe New Year.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Interesting approach to the skylights Pat. Like others I think you are being a little hard on yourself, they look pretty good to me.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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