KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Michael - the computer keyboard reminds me how big your model is. I do like the opportunity for detail that it presents. I must consider building smaller ships at larger scale in future. -
Doris - I wish my eyesight was better to be able to marvel at the detail you create.
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Michael - screw slots look a little wide and deep .............................. only joking - well done.
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The weather has been somewhat on the cool side and as a result the workshop has been declared out of bounds. I have consoled myself by sitting in my arm chair planning the next steps and making manufacturing sketches from my stock of photographs. I have been focusing on the foredeck and in particular the various features around the anchor chain. In the next photograph you can see a pair of bollards and a couple of chain guides hiding under a plastic canoe. Here are the same features with their location better defined albeit with a loss of detail. The rear most pair appear to be fixed guides and scaling of the photographs enabled me to produce the following sketch. The front pair are quite tall and slender. The lugs will make manufacture of these somewhat more than a simple turning job. Finally I returned to the "chain locking device" that was the subject of a previous discussion. I took the advice that this was some sort of pawl lock and I imagine that it operates something like the depiction in the following sketch. Scaling from photographs produced the following sketch. The weather is forecast to become more stormy and a little warmer so I hope to manufacture these items over the weekend.
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Thank you Juan. I am hoping that my current build "Germania" turns out as well.
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Vaddoc - I have a Byrnes saw. I can rip down wood of up to 3/4" thick using the carbide blade this has a .055" kerf. I limit my slitting saw blades to wood less than .250" thick. I typically use a .0315" blade. I usually get planks to within +/- .002" of the desired thickness.
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She is a pretty little vessel Javier. The sails are nicely shaped - what are they made from?
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accurate-armour micro saw
KeithAug replied to michael101's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Michael - you are correct - the tooth pitch is circa 1mm and therefore it does not work well on anything of 1mm thickness or less. -
Thank you Gary. Progress seems to be slow at the moment, made more so by the sudden cold spell. Not much fun in the workshop over the last few days and hence limited time. I applied tape to the rails in the areas of the shroud brackets and marked the centre line. While I was at it I started to glue in the winches. I cross checked photos of the bracket positions against the plans and found them to be accurate. I marked off the positions for the brackets and drilled the rails to take the bracket spigots. The brackets were then glued in using CA glue. And a few more shots of the installed winces:-
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Michael - yes beyond my budget as well. I buy a lot of my tooling from a British based supplier (Chronos) - but as ever these days much of the stuff originates from the far east. That said I find their HSS slitting saw blades to be of good quality. I think they ship worldwide. https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product-category/gear-cutters-slitting-slotting-saws/metric-hss-slitting-saws/ https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product-category/gear-cutters-slitting-slotting-saws/imperial-hss-slitting-saws/ Of the far eastern manufacturers I find Soba (Indian) equipment to be well engineered and they do make slitting saw blades.
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At least you didn't burn it in disgust. It is always better to step away, I wish I could be as disciplined. Great recovery.
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I have to agree Eberhard. I went a year ago and was pretty unimpressed. I think the decline mirrors the nations move from engineering to a service economy. Michael. I find that I prefer the smaller diameter slitting saws which when combined with a decent thickness seem to run more true and hence are more accurate. Interesting use of Allen key although I think I would prefer to use the slitting saw for this sort of task. I will need hinges at 1/36 scale some time in the future so we will see how the method scales.
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Thank you Bedford / Mark. Mark. I find CA glue is very strong when gluing closely fitting shafts into bores. I even use it to glue parts on to shafts when I want to turn them and it invariably survives the turning operation. I don't think it is a strong as solder but it can be a bit more convenient and leave less of a clean up operation.
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accurate-armour micro saw
KeithAug replied to michael101's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I used something similar and didn't find them very good. Have you considered the X-ACTO #15 Keyhole Saw Blade. I use them and find them reasonable. -
Vaddoc - Ah! hadn't understood that. As you say, I also don't know any UK suppliers who supply milled "exotic" timber suitable for scale modelling, pity really but as Michael pointed out we probably don't create the volume of sales to constitute a viable market. If you ever need a bit of wood milling down I would be happy to do it for you
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Yes Vaddoc - I find myself shying away from remote suppliers because I am never confident about quality.
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Really neatly done Gary. I particularly liked your recycling approach to rivets. I must use your method for pillow blocks some time.
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Back to the build after the shock absorber discussion. Thank you for all the comments and thumbs ups. I realise I didn't post any images of the finished rails ( after 4 coats of poly). Having completed the rail I decided to make and mount the brackets for the shrouds - 4 each side for the main and foremasts - 16 in total. Similar brackets also attach blocks to the rail - 4 for each mast - 8 in total. I therefore needed 24 brackets. I started with a sketch. The brackets are fairly simple affairs:- I drilled a piece of brass to create the holes and then used these holes as a reference to mill the outer radius. A slitting saw was then used to divide each bracket. The "comb" was then turned horizontal and a further slitting saw cut was used to separate the "fingers". I then needed to attach a spigot ready for attachment to the rail. This involved drilling a .04" hole along the axis of the bracket. To do this i made a simple holding jig - basically a "U" shaped notch .05" deep in a piece of scrap aluminium. The jig allowed the brackets to be positioned accurately and repeatably in the mill to allow the .04" hole to be drilled. With all the drilling done .04" wire was glued in the holes to create the spigot. Finally another simple jig was used to part off the spigots to length. I now have 24 ready to install.
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Bob - I would agree that these shock absorbers are unlikely to be of a lot of use in and uncontrolled jibe. I once sailed on Simon Le Bons yacht "Drum" (fortunately not at the time she lost her keel). At the time she had huge plates welded on to either side of the main boom to repair the damage caused by an uncontrolled jibe. According to there skipper the jibe had bent the boom through about 45 degrees - remarkable given its very ample section. However it is my experience that even a controlled jibe in inclement weather can lead to boom whipping across until restricted by the main sheet. Under these circumstances both rubber and spring types of absorber will act to mitigate / reduce the instantaneous impact load. The loads on a big yacht can be many tons and ones inability to compress springs by hand is understandable. I agree with you that age hardened rubber wont work and my assumption is that the donuts have a recommended replacement cycle.
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