KeithAug

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

Video of turning a taper on taig lathe.  Photo of finished spoke sanded ready for next step. 
 
IMG_3104.mov  

 

 

 
 
 
 

First - thank you for your visit here.
 
 
I think that a significant number of us use machines with:
ID  1/2"
OD 4" max
OD 3"  when it is sufficient for the depth of cut
 
For our uses  it would make things more clear if you provided a table for TPI
Assume that the material being cut is dense hardwood Maple or harder  maximum depth is >1"
Max TPI  per thickness of cut  
 
We use expensive wood so we wish to minimize loss to kerf
So the table should also include minimum blade thickness per depth of cut to avoid blade flex. 
 
What we go by now is from an old Hobby Mill publication:
 
"For sheet stock above 3/16" or 4.5mm:  Use the I-293 .040 kerf blade. 
Actually you can use this blade on thinner stock but it has a thicker kerf (more waste) and a few less teeth than the I-292 blade (chipout sooner with thinner stock)
For stock between 3/32" (3mm) - 3/16" (4.5mm):  Use I-292 .030 kerf blade.   If there is chipout around 3/32", go to the #99 blade
For stock between 3/64" (1mm) - 3/32" (3mm):  Use #99 170T blade.  Main change in blade is the finer pitch
For stock thinner than 3/64" (1mm):  Use #100 224T blade."
 
These are probably the most often used blades.
If you have better experienced based suggestions there would probably be interest here.
 
For stock thinner than 3/64" (1mm):  Use #100 224T blade.
 

Most definitely interested , many thanks for letting us know.  Being a 'custom' produced item, will this make it more expensive?  I understand there may be set-up costs etc, but if enough interest is shown, would it be worth tooling up a production line again?   I ask this as the international postage of products from the US has increased so much that I have stopped buying except for some very specific items.  These blades were very good, and if costs remain reasonable I would certainly be placing an order.
 
cheers
 
Pat

While planking the bulwarks on my Confederacy,I found it difficult to find the right clamp. All had too short a reach,too much tension or just plain junk.
I solved the problem with my wife's clothes peg. Just turn them about face and use some heat shrink for the tips for padding.....Works a treat
 
 

I believe that the medium blue-gray would fade to a more pale gray as the ships aged.  So if you want a brand new look, I'd go more with the medium blue-gray.  But if you want a more aged or weathered look, I'd go pale gray.  My 2 cents.

Working on turret enhancements that teenaged Ian skipped. I printed two quarter-circle tapered parts to bring up the top of the front edge and also add the sighting hoods. Then I printed some little wee ladders, and some what would you call them, weather-protective canvas bellows?, for where the guns emerge from the turret.
 
Here's an original turret. Notes (1) the hole in top is from me re-drilling to get a more accurate axis location, (2) teenaged Ian wrapped some large-dia solder around each barrel, since removed, and slapped on some grey paint.

Here is "X" turret with enhancements; further fettling and filling required.

By the way, I seek opinions on the grey that teenaged Ian used. The drawings have a note saying she was "medium blue-grey" but this looks too blue to me now. I bought a lighter grey which looks ok in the shop, but is very pale in daylight. Suggestions?
 

I think I had this idea after an episode of “The repair shop”, a UK TV program. Someone brought in a model of a ship, cut into puzzle pieces.
 
Having done a trip on one of the nicer sailing cruise ships, I thought it would be nice to have a puzzle of the ship. 
 
“Star Clipper” is a 115m 4-master sailing ship (with engine, note smoke coming from the mizzen mast) from 1992. It can carry up to 170 passengers and has the first mast square-rigged and the others “Latin” (is that barquantine?). It’s a wonderful holiday opportunity, sailing in the Mediterranean or Caribbean depending on the season.


The basic idea was to construct a “bread without butter” model of the ship, with each board representing a deck of the ship. Each board/deck would have its actual layout painted on it, and then the boards were cut up into puzzle pieces. 
I happened to have in my vacation photos a picture of the safety poster showing deck layouts (and sail layout). I did not have any plans and thus I’m warning the community that this is fun-quality rather than museum-quality!

Here the first three boards (and the deck layouts prints of my photos below the). These represent the ship above the waterline. They will sit  on two additional boards that contain the sea and the below waterline hull. The 5 layers will be held together by the 4 masts only, for which holes have been drilled under the appropriate angle. The hull was shaped by hand with the boards in a vice using a plane and sandpaper.

next, the deckhouses, tenders and masts were added. 

I made a simplified deck planes, with color coded spaces (white-common spaces, red-passenger cabins, green-crew spaces)


now turned all boards over and drew the puzzle pieces. A couple of days on my dremel jigsaw and numerous saw blades later I had around 300 puzzle pieces, still neatly arranged by deck.
off the starboard bow is even an orca in the sea. Assembled:
and then came the main test:

it took about three hours to revert from the puzzle pieces to the model again. The normal strategy of finding the corners and edges first does not work, as there are so many of them….the motorised jigsaw was critical, as each puzzle piece must be cut perfectly vertical or the puzzle won’t fit.
 
 
finally (and a few years) I added 16 more pieces in the form of 3D printed sails. She looks great and the puzzle has been completed several times!
 

 
thanks for reading!

I finished and installed the port side longboat.  The hardest part was waiting for the glue to dry.  The last photo is missing the sail handling lines.
 
Mike R

I don't know that there would be all that much smoke and fumes (noise, on the other hand...). Vessels like this used tall chimneys to carry away smoke and create sufficient draft for the firebox. I have no knowledge of whether there might have been gratings, but most of these boats (likely including original Lula) were so lightly built that there wouldn't be anything between the pilothouse floor and whatever's below other than some thin oak or pine planks. I'd go with the assumption, suggested by others, that there were steam pipes/radiators run up from the boiler immediately below, especially given the configuration you're using. Possibly with some kind of shut-of valve since the last thing you want in July is a hot radiator up there! Whatever boiler heat passes up there in winter, also passes up there in summer!

There does not seem to be any chimney - a steam pipe or two would seem to be the obvious solution - probably using exhaust steam.

The stern wheel looks excellent Keith. 

Really smart and realistic. Excellent.

Greg
 
If the copper is hard soften it by heating (to red) and then quenching - this should make it very easy to bend, then it should be possible just to bend it by hand around a piece of metal rod of appropriate diameter.
 

If your model depicts per the rebuild, you really have no other choice but to include the stabilisers.
 
John

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

All votes will be counted Veszett.
 
I think you may be on to something there Yves.
 
Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century.
 
I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form).
 
Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage.

The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank.

The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod.

The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo).

The solder was then cleaned up.

Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank.



Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper.

The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape.

The two stabilisers were thus completed.

 
I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.
 
 
 

There does not seem to be any chimney - a steam pipe or two would seem to be the obvious solution - probably using exhaust steam.

Plenty more to work on while pondering the fueling system!
 
So some different metal work; its the mounting structure for the rear hydrofoil:

I feel that I am getting close to being able to tie the main components, less the engine, all together.