Thurston saw blades

[Affinity]

hi, folks.

While browsing through your site, I stumbled upon the topic Thurston closing. I know.  I know.  Its been a couple of years but,  I just found it today. Anyway, I use to work for them. I am the guy that produce those saw blades that you are using for your model ships.

They sold their business to Hyde Industrial blades solutions.  If you are interested, you guys can read about it here, https://www.industrialbladesandknives.com/articles/hyde-announces-new-acquisition-of-thurston-manufacturing/ 

I am now with Hyde Industrial blades solutions. Although we don't have the exact machines that were used to produce those former blades, we can still custom produce something better or comparable. If you guys are interested, let me know. Post some pics of what you need. Thanks

[BANYAN]

Most definitely interested , many thanks for letting us know.  Being a 'custom' produced item, will this make it more expensive?  I understand there may be set-up costs etc, but if enough interest is shown, would it be worth tooling up a production line again?   I ask this as the international postage of products from the US has increased so much that I have stopped buying except for some very specific items.  These blades were very good, and if costs remain reasonable I would certainly be placing an order.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited November 22, 2021 by BANYAN

[Jaager]

First - thank you for your visit here.

 

 

I think that a significant number of us use machines with:

ID  1/2"

OD 4" max

OD 3"  when it is sufficient for the depth of cut

 

For our uses  it would make things more clear if you provided a table for TPI

Assume that the material being cut is dense hardwood Maple or harder  maximum depth is >1"

Max TPI  per thickness of cut  

 

We use expensive wood so we wish to minimize loss to kerf

So the table should also include minimum blade thickness per depth of cut to avoid blade flex. 

 

What we go by now is from an old Hobby Mill publication:

 

"For sheet stock above 3/16" or 4.5mm:  Use the I-293 .040 kerf blade. 

Actually you can use this blade on thinner stock but it has a thicker kerf (more waste) and a few less teeth than the I-292 blade (chipout sooner with thinner stock)

For stock between 3/32" (3mm) - 3/16" (4.5mm):  Use I-292 .030 kerf blade.   If there is chipout around 3/32", go to the #99 blade

For stock between 3/64" (1mm) - 3/32" (3mm):  Use #99 170T blade.  Main change in blade is the finer pitch

For stock thinner than 3/64" (1mm):  Use #100 224T blade."

 

These are probably the most often used blades.

If you have better experienced based suggestions there would probably be interest here.

 

For stock thinner than 3/64" (1mm):  Use #100 224T blade.

 

[Bob Cleek]

If we order custom blades one by one, I'm guessing that's going to be a pain in the butt for you and a pain in the wallet for us. If you are interested in production runs, you might consider connecting with Jim Byrnes of Byrnes Model Machines who makes the "industry standard" modeling table saw. Byrnes Model Machines Home Page If you can reproduce the old Thurstons, I bet he'd buy a bunch of them to equip his table saws, as before, and we'd all happily buy replacement blades from him. Bulk orders by Jim could reduce the production costs and "leave a little meat on the bone" for everybody.

[Affinity]

 

sorry, I didn't mean to scare you off with the custom part. Don't sweat it. The guys want you as a customer , and will work with you.

We don't have the exact machine that was use to produce these former blades. You wont get that old line finish anymore. From the looks of it, the only difference will be the finish of the blades. The 2.0 version, you can have the option of a rough or a smooth finish. You can have as many teeth as you want, a slot, or bevels. The blades can be thick or as thin as .008" with a tolerance of +/-.0005" or better all around. This is the version 2.0 improvement from the former blades. The cut will be more precise. 

Btw, do you still have the  old saw blades? Can you please upload some pics for my nostalgic purpose?

thanks.  

[VTHokiEE]

46 minutes ago, Jaager said:

so we wish to minimize loss to kerf

I’m just starting to really learn my saw but I’ve been using it to cut out some slots and I wouldn’t mind having a “thick” high tpi “speciality” blade for that purpose but maybe I only think I want that until I learn more 🙂

[mtaylor]

I still have some of those blades.   When I get a chance, I'll dig them out and post some photos.   

 

Here's a topic that was posted on saw blades and the Byrnes saw.  The Thurston's worked very well with our hobby saws.

 

[TBlack]

Affinity,

Try these. I love them:

Tom

[Affinity]

Thanks MTaylor and Tback for the pic and infos.

It has been awhile. I use to heat treat those blades, grind them, and etched them too. 

Anyway, I spoked with my colleague about producing those Thurston blades.

We are thinking of prototyping a batch with your requirements. Once we have the final version, we can put it into our catalog and make it available for everyone to enjoy. This will be a fun project for us. 

 If anyone is interested, feel free to contact our sales team with your requirements at 

https://www.industrialbladesandknives.com/contact-us/ 

 

 

[Jaager]

If you find that this project is practical,  you might consider becoming a site sponsor.  I do not know what the costs involved are, but your cartouche could contain images of the blades and the link go to a page with the blades..   A descriptor with each blade at your site could provide the wood thickness that it is designed to cut.   Sort of idiot proof the process.   Since the blades are small and not heavy,  you could explore the possibility of having economy mail to Europe or work a deal with someone in the EU.  -  recurring factors that show up here  - sort of like it might pay Jim Byrnes to find a Maw & Paw distributor in the EU and you both use it.

[CPDDET]

An "idiot proof" way to choose the proper blade would be a huge benefit to those of us who are still new to our hobby. 

While I do own a Byrnes saw, I'm at a complete loss when choosing the right blade for a specific type of wood or process.

[mtaylor]

13 minutes ago, CPDDET said:

An "idiot proof" way to choose the proper blade would be a huge benefit to those of us who are still new to our hobby. 

While I do own a Byrnes saw, I'm at a complete loss when choosing the right blade for a specific type of wood or process.

Download the guide that posted.  The right blade as such is dependent on wood thickness.

[CPDDET]

54 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Download the guide that posted.  The right blade as such is dependent on wood thickness.

Great idea, thanks!

[Affinity]

23 hours ago, Jaager said:

If you find that this project is practical,  you might consider becoming a site sponsor.  I do not know what the costs involved are, but your cartouche could contain images of the blades and the link go to a page with the blades..   A descriptor with each blade at your site could provide the wood thickness that it is designed to cut.   Sort of idiot proof the process.   Since the blades are small and not heavy,  you could explore the possibility of having economy mail to Europe or work a deal with someone in the EU.  -  recurring factors that show up here  - sort of like it might pay Jim Byrnes to find a Maw & Paw distributor in the EU and you both use it.

I don't plan on becoming a site sponsor or a distributor. I just came across a post about Thurston, and wanted to share my comments. And shamelessly put in a plug for custom made saw blades for your table saw from Hyde IBS.😅

Btw, we have engineers that will gladly help you out with the saw blade specs and wood applications.

You can contact them with the link I provided above.  

 

Thanks

[Jaager]

Oh well, it was worth taking the shot.  

It is appreciated that you offered what you have presented.