CDR_Ret

In the FWIW category, research suggests that the average male height in the 1600s and 1700s was about 66 inches. So assuming chest height is about 2/3 of that, or 44 inches, that would give a target value for the swivel gun mount height. 🤔
 
Terry

Hello to all. My name is Steve Anderson. I am an artist and modelmaker. I have always loved and been inspired by ship models. My first exposure was the collection at the San Francisco Maritime Museum when I was in High School. Since then I've had the good fortune to visit National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, Preble Hall at the US Naval Academy in Annapolis, the Smithsonian, and many others. C.S Forester's Hornblower series, Patrick O'Brian's Jack Aubrey, and Alexander Kent's Bolitho books are "very well thumbed", as Sherlock Homes would say, for continued inspiration.

In 1991 I laid the keel for HMS Victory in 1:64 scale. I chose this scale, rather than 1:48, because it seemed to more fitting in scale to a home and was big enough to get your hands inside for great details. The project has been in progress on and off for 31 years. All is plank on frame. The patterns and molds for the guns were made by me. The cast parts are urethane. The decorative painting is all freehand brush work.
 
I started a back-in-time build log and will post some of the work in progress and will continue to do so as I go forward toward completion.
 
Very excited about being in such illustrious company of Model Ship World.
 
Cheers,
 
Steve

Good evening all! Another small test project, which building process I forgot to record.. It is in fact my first small scale scratchbuilt square rigged ship. Mostly an exercise on the rigging method at such a size, on a generic and rather simple base and hull, representing a 19th century greek merchant brig, circa 1/350, waterline. A single-post thread, with the end result straight away. If mods think there is no much point  please delete. 

Porchie: Even though the paintwork may not be brilliant, try to keep as much of the original as possible. Resist the temptation to paint over what is there! Restoring missing patches of paint is a better solution.
 
Keith: I agree that earlier 'restorations' make life far more difficult than an untouched model.
 
Everyone: whether or not 'real' ships were rigged with seven yards per mast or not is irrelevant to this model. One doesn't try to alter things when restoring however 'inaccurate' it may be, unless it is obvious that something was not original but a later addition.

Trying to solve a problem with PVA causing very thin wood to curl.  I visited my local hobby shop and found this.. 20 minute working time epoxy.  I didn't know they made such a thing but I think it'll fill the bill as testing is very positive/.
 

Thanks.  That's something I hadn't thought of.
 
FWIW, I had planned on this taking a long time, and I have some woodworking experience (although probably little or none pertinent to model-building).
 
I'll start in the wood model forum then.

Essentially, yes, because almost every other decision you make and skill set you develop will relate to what you choose to build. But in terms of research, for example, the Wood Ship Model Kits section has three threads pinned right at the top about how to choose a good kit for a beginner:
 
 
 
These have a lot of good discussion that will give you context. If you still have a specific question, that's a good time to post a new topic (or a new question in one of those threads).
 
Also, in addition to @allanyed's suggestion, consider starting with the NRG's half-hull planking tutorial model. Hull shaping and planking is probably the hardest thing to master for modelers new to wooden ship building, as it's the most different from anything you've experienced in the plastic modeling world, and you might well benefit from trying this simple and inexpensive learning kit before diving into a full (and more expensive) model. It looks cool when finished and doesn't take up much space. There is a full tutorial build log on MSW as well as multiple people's personal logs (including mine) that you can consult for diversity.

I enjoy building models of many types, but U.S. Navy ships and planes are a passion.  Plastic car and truck kits are fun, but historical models require an attempt at period accuracy, at least from my perspective.  I have been surfing modelshipworld.com this month and have learned quite a bit already from the membership.
My impetus for joining is the Constructo Prince de Neufchatel in 1:58 scale, which has been in my shipyard for over 20 years at this point.  She is my first wooden ship model and I have just started making progress on her again.  Also in drydock are a couple of 1/700 plastic kits (USS Belleau Wood, LHA 3 and a “modern” USS Missouri, BB 63).
 
I built as a kid and enjoyed imagining myself Captain of the project of the week.  As an adult I try to capture the historical feel of the ship and always learn a great deal researching my builds.  I really only have two finished ship models (both plastic) at this point – Revell’s 1/535 scale Missouri in Measure 22 camouflage, and Italeri’s 1/720 CVN 71 Roosevelt.
 
I look forward to spending time with you folks, learning new things, and finishing better models.
Especially the Neufchatel!! 
 
Regards,
Steve

In Fusion 360 (and probably other packages), create a single path for the centerline of your rope. For multiple lines in a block, do just one loop and copy the solid segment rather than doing the entire length.
But with your path, create a single sketch with all the strands. Overlap them a bit and cut away the interior overlaps.
Then sweep that sketch along the path, adding twist. In F360, I have to specify the entire twist amount for the entire length, might be a few thousand degrees.
Here's a printable wire spool for my 1:8 DUKW winch.
 
 
One loop of wire:

 
 
The printed wire reel:

I'm afraid I've enough to do without venturing onto Twitter! 😉

All is good in our little world  

I also received a "The connection to modelshipworld.com is not secure You are seeing this warning because this site does not support HTTPS." message in my Chrome browser when I just logged onto the site (1524 MST 7/26/2022). So there are still some issues to take care of.

I also received a "The connection to modelshipworld.com is not secure You are seeing this warning because this site does not support HTTPS." message in my Chrome browser when I just logged onto the site (1524 MST 7/26/2022). So there are still some issues to take care of.

I also received a "The connection to modelshipworld.com is not secure You are seeing this warning because this site does not support HTTPS." message in my Chrome browser when I just logged onto the site (1524 MST 7/26/2022). So there are still some issues to take care of.

John, I always use the Adam Savage (Mythbusters TV show) approach.  
"I reject your reality and substitute my own."  (Like today, I remember I bought some door stops.  But it must have been a different reality as I can't find them in this one.)

BenD, thank you so much for the information.  I thought that I was doing something wrong.  I would now think it's safe to say that since my mast is still straight, I've got just the right tension on my rigging for this to happen.  Since this is a natural event and it's regarding my little Jolly Boat, I can live with it no problem (only have two dead eyes per side).  I can't tell you how much of a relief this info is, thanks again. 

I just gave mine the workout... Yep, next time 10 mm on the height off the build plate.... 5mm is a bit tight.... According to Lychee, I used almost as much resin in the supports as I did in the parts...
 
Well did it work is the big question....
 
Yep, they all slide together, smooth push fit... I can relieve the depth on the male mating parts another .10 step so they seat better but other than that perfect...
 
Some detail....

45 deg is the right angle and smaller supports and more of them is the ticket.... Still need a bit of minor cleaning but other than that good to go...
 
So I guess I'll be deciding on how I want to assemble these, paint first or assemble then paint....
 
Anyway, on to the rear half of the engine....
 
YAY TEAM!!!! It really works...
 
EG

Good afternoon all,
 
It was suggested that I introduce myself, so here goes.
 
I was a sailor in the RCN for 26.5 years, and did a bit of small arms marksmanship during that time, hence my 'nickname'.  Before I joined the Navy, I built models - tanks, planes, ships, and was starting to get into building scale RC warship models before I headed off to sea, and around the world.  I still have my DKM Graf Spee in the attic in my garage - but it's in too rough shape to think about putting back to sea.  Having hung up my full time Sailor's rig 3 years ago, I've stepped into a part time position with the Army Reserves, and have a full time job with the government as a technical inspection.  
 
My trade in the Navy was a SONAR technician (maintenance/repair as opposed to operating it) but I ended up doing a whole lot different roles.  
 
Anyhow, moving back into the world of RC stuff happened last summer when I got involved with a guy running an RC youtube channel that spoofed the 'Alaska gold mining shows' and and that got me back into fiddling about with RC Stuff.  I am more a scale boat guy, so I decided to pursue that path again.  I ended up buying a 1/96 scale HMCS Bonaventure model from a friend of a friend that had been started, but was basically an empty hull with minimal detail, and a flight deck.  
 
Knowing that the hardest part of a 1/96 scale aircraft carrier is finding the right aircraft...I took my 3D printer and and got busy.  I've printed a couple of squadrons of both Trackers and Banshees now - and am looking for a Sea King model to print.  
 
That was in November and December.  In January, I was chatting with a buddy at work who is a trainaholic, and he was looking for a ship to go with his train layout - I found a 3D print-able model of the Flower class corvette and while he loved the Canadian content, was looking for something bigger, and more train-related.  So, I found a guy who released a 3D model of the Liberty Ship, and printed one for him....in 1/88 scale (which was as big as the printer could go...I know that HO is 1/87) and while I was at it, I printed myself a Liberty Ship in 1/96 to match my Bonnie.
 
I also had a chance to play with some Ready to Run tugboats through my RC Youtube buddy, and so I bought one of those (Horizon Hobby HH30 Tugboat) and have done a few minor upgrades to it (ESC, Prop mostly) that have improved the performance considerably, particularly in terms of sternway performance.
 
So...long story long (as they usually are with me) I'm a not-really retired sailor who lives on a lake, and has some RC boats, and am doing a lot of 3D design and printing work.  
 
Right now, my 'completed' projects are the HH30 tug, and my Liberty Ship build - which you'll find in the 1901-present forum.
 
I look forward to learning a bit from the old hands here!

Brad (NS)
 
 

Hi,
 
thanks very much for this topic, i was able to draw in fusion 360 the hull of my chassiron 43, that i'm currently restoring, in order to sail the world in 6 years.
 

Thanks for the explanation, Steven.  Scuttlebutt is still in use here though mostly among Navy and Marine vets.

Nice. For those overseas, Furphy was the brand name of water carts. They were used by Australian troops used them in World War I, and just like the "scuttlebutt", gatherings around the Furphy were the way rumours spread among the troops. So in Australian parlance, a furphy became the name for an unfounded rumour. It's not all that common nowadays, but I still use it.
 
Steven

Hi Brothers... It was suggested that I post this here to bring it to a more appropriate forum for it all cad work and 3D test printing... I've been at it for five weeks now over in my F-86F thread....
 
Essentially I've learned enough that I've just embarked on version 5 of the design.. Currently it is only half designed, the forward half....
 
So what is a J-47GE-27?

A J-47GE-27 is the engine that powered the F-86F day fighter, the plane that took the Mig 15 to task over China/North Korea during the Korean War...
 
My sources of info are of course the US Airforce tech manuals and HD videos from the company that refurbishes them today... It is the most produced Turbojet engine in history with well over 30,000 of them produced...




 
And powered everything from the F-86 to the pylon engines of the B-36 & B-47.... Today, they are being used in race boats and land speed record cars, with a healthy industry of rebuilding them for aircraft restorations...
 
Of course, HD video snapshots help a great deal as well...

I'm using two pieces of software for this, Solidworks for the 3D modeling, and Gimp for the HD image scaling/measuring .... The Image above in Gimp has been leveled and enlarged to full size, (yes the intake diameter is really 3 ft across) the blue dashed lines are index lines I use to measure various sections... 
 
In Solidworks,

I use the cutaway drawing and basic dimensions from the TO's & TM's to scale the drawing to full size and set it as a locked background image to start the process... and I model from there....

This is as far as I've gotten...

At this point I started 3D printing to test if it is going to come together correctly.... And I learned a few of the limitations of scaling and 3D printing... 1/32 scale is a scale in which the item cannot be an identical representation of the real thing... Allowances in both look and design need to be made to get something that will closely resemble a J-47... A larger scale will be easier to do not so much compensation has to be made...
 
Anyway this is where I'm at at this point in the journey...
 
Starting the 5th generation of iterative design... Essentially to get the 3D print requirements satisfied and still produce a good scale model....
 
EG
 
Everyone is welcome to follow along and offer your suggestions or condolences..
All are welcome...
 
 
 

It's been around 40 years since I last  built a model.  Had a pretty good model railroad layout, built and flew control-line and RC planes (balsa, dope, etc.) and many plastic planes.  Also built some bigger furniture in the last few years.

Recently started living full-time in a motorcoach running around the US, moving every week or two.

Decided to get back into model-building because it will satisfy my interest in "building stuff", etc., and can be done in a relatively small space.

I have purchased the Model Shipways 3-boat wooden kit so I won't be tempted to take on a "real" ship until I've learned/relearned the techniques.

Started the Dory and having a great time.  Will start a build log shortly.

Hi Mark, welcome aboard! Glad to have you. No building while driving. 😆👍😀

Welcome aboard.  I strongly suggest a build log, even it's a "well this is where I'm at now".  No better way to share your work and it does make it easier for those to help you, if you do ever need help.  Your hiatus was a little bit longer than mine.  But I'm back it and I believe I see the end coming on this build.  I was lucky and still had all the dialog and photos that were lost during "The Great Crash" so I was able to recreate my build log.