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amateur

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  1. amateur
    I think the size is correct, but the original had a slightly orher design, making it look smaller. I found another photo of the chain (nova scotia archives)
  2. amateur
    Try Adam Willaerts and Cornelis Verbeeck. Both Dutch painters active around 1600. Both known in their time and now for rather accurate depictions of ships, including correct depiction of the rigging of those ships. Jan
  3. amateur
    Hi Bill, It will not end: there are virtually no contemporary models from that era, no technical drawings of specific ships. So: any model of an early spanish galleon is a product of knowledge, and fantasy. And the ratio of those two does vary between kitmakers. So, forgetvthe idea of building an exact model, shop around in pictures and build something that looks like the picture, and is pleasing your own eye. But don’t get annoyed by the ‘an other error, again’. Even kits of well documented ships have errors (small or large). You can go down the lane of research, but even then, you will for ever have the doubt whether you followed the correct source. Try googling the dutch maritime painters of around 1600, they have proven to be pretty spot on when it comes to depicting ships of the period, and they did some spanish galleons of that era as well. For earlier ships: do what you like Jan
  4. amateur
    In the Netherlands, those blocks were in use before 1700. This is an original shop-sign, dating back to around 1694, showing a blockmakers workshop, there is a violin almost in the middle. Jan
  5. amateur
    Happening on this side of the pond too. Recently a official study showed that the much needed knowledge on historical wooden ships is not sufficiently available at the official organisation that certifies these older wooden ships. Resulting in safety certificates that should not have been issued, which in turn leads to accidents involvong heavy injuries or death….
  6. amateur
    Actually, as far as known, there was only one man o war called Gouda (more precise ‘Stad Gouda’), build in 1665, in Amsterdam. Willem van de Velde made a drawing of her. two-decked frigate. Lanterns are always a bit of a gamble: the large ships had up to five, smaller ones had less. And to increase the fun: they were removable . Three seems a bit overcrowded for a ship of this size. And although not as elaborate as the English, it had a fair bit of scrollwork going on at the stern (as well as a nice painting of Gouda) As to rigging: Lindberg could have done a better job : the main sail on the bowsprit is missing Jan
  7. amateur
    That one turned out really well. Sure you aren’t coming from Poland or somewhere from that region?
  8. amateur
    I can see beaty in the design of many modern warships. In these ships I still haven’ foundit. Nice model, though Jan
  9. amateur
    In the east-european forums nickle-silver thread is often used. Thin, rigid, but bendable. On the orher hand: it is about suggestion. It is better to have a (near)perfect suggestion, than a clumsy, over scale, version depicting reality. In this case: better to leave it at the downhoal (or uphaul, can’t make out which one you left out) , than messing up in including the other part. The eye is better in seeing what isn’t there than leaving put what should not have been there. Jan
  10. amateur
    Hi Frank, can you give slightly more info? (pic of the kit perhaps). for a idea on ships colours aroun 1700 try googling ‘artitec texel’, or check the buildlog here of a card-model of the ‘zeven provincien’. basically: gold (yellow ochre), green, red, and nothing ‘over the top’ jan
  11. amateur
    Thanks for keeping this wonderful site up! Jan
  12. amateur
    I would like to see the research report of the museum. In reaction to the research (and its outcomes that the drawings are genuine), Hoving did write an new article (published in Dutch in: Scheepshistorie 33 | Amsterdam University Press (aup.nl)) on those drawings, that still does not openly admit that those drawings had the function of 'technical drawings' (as far as my understanding of the article goes). Sometimes, I wonder whether part of these discussions are (partly) coloured by the interpretation we give to the word 'technical drawing': sometimes it looks to me as if people read that as 'a full set of CAD-drawings, giving the exact size and position of each and every part concerned'. Or: a full set of drawings such as we have them from the English naval archives for all the well-known historical warships (and quite a number of lesser knowns). @Jules: if I understand you correctly, that is not the type of drawings you are referring to: the examples shown so far do show construction details, the translation from crude measures from the contract to tangible forms, and general layouts showing the relative position of parts to each other, etc, but seem not drawn exactly enough to take measures that can be transferred to the ship under construction. (Or did I miss something important?) Jan
  13. amateur
    When do you start building? Eay beyond my skill-set, but will follow with interest. Jan
  14. amateur
    The only one I can find is an oldie: micromodels from London had a barge and a natrow boat. basis, dmall, no clue about scale, and rather expensive as Micromodels are only available second hand, or via the webshop-cowboys… Jzn
  15. amateur
    Hi Jules, very interesting stuff to read. Thank you for taking the time to write and post. what I was wondering: those drawings did not make it into the archived building contracts (as far as I am told bybothers, never checked myself). Where in the proces between ‘ordering a ship’ and ‘launch’ did they play a role. Was it in the translation of design into a specified contract, or in the proces of building a ship from the measures as stated in the contract? Jan
  16. amateur
    Niiiice! Did you consider replacing the props with a transparant disc? Some diorama builders do to solve the discrepancy between the speed shown and a non-moving prop. Jan
  17. amateur
    When I take pics of my model and show them 'larger than life', all kinds of unwanted specs, uneven surfaces, blobs of glue etc show up. Yours only show impeccable craftmanship. A joy to look at. Jan
  18. amateur
    Any country in mind? Or just ‘period’? Not much available , I think: it is either earlier (mayflower, Wasa), or quite a bit later: victory or cuttty sark (i know, there is more than these four ) Only one that comes to my mind is Friesland (mamoli), around 1670, but outside your scale range (1:75) Jan
  19. amateur
    Nope: wood is not metal. There is more to gain from prebending your wood, in order to prevent stress. (Using moisture/heat/and sometimes a template to get the correct bend) After assembling your hull will be (at least almost) symmetrical, so that remaining stress will more or less ‘even out’. As far as my knowledge goes: after carefully bending and fitting your planks, they should attach with relatively little stress. Therefore, once you glue them (both to the bulkheads and their neighbors) there is no need, and no method for stress relieving. In fact: any excessive heat/moisture after building your hull will damage your work. Jan
  20. amateur
    Any thoughts on long-term colour-changes? Matching the colour of the surrounding wood might be tempting, but if that material doesn’t change colour, and the wood does (or they both change in opposite directions) going for contrast might be a better option from the start. I like the crispness of the windows and the scrollwork. Jan
  21. amateur
    Yup, that is what I mezn. That first pic is very, very convincing. jan
  22. amateur
    You should stop fooling us: photoshopping pics of the original into your workbench. Honestly: placed in a dioramasetting, and on a (BW) foto taken from a low angle it would be difficult to see this is ‘just’ a model. Jan
  23. amateur
    Have you seen Tom Grigats version of this kit on Youtube (Toms modelling in Motion). You can do fantastic things with this kit…. Jdn
  24. amateur
    Nice lines! Jan
  25. amateur
    Are there any sails on the model? Set 'square' looks a bit boring, compared to the more 'dynamic looking 'braced ons. But set at an angle with sails, I have read (somewehere on this vast forum....) that the upper yards actually should be braced closer to the wind than the lower ones. If so an equal angle for all the yards is not as static/boring as the square setting, but it might trigger some comments of the type 'that your sail-handling it al wrong' From a more practical point of view: the angled setting saves some space/glass for your glass show case. Jan

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