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amateur

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  1. amateur
    The only one I can find is an oldie: micromodels from London had a barge and a natrow boat. basis, dmall, no clue about scale, and rather expensive as Micromodels are only available second hand, or via the webshop-cowboys… Jzn
  2. amateur
    Hi Jules, very interesting stuff to read. Thank you for taking the time to write and post. what I was wondering: those drawings did not make it into the archived building contracts (as far as I am told bybothers, never checked myself). Where in the proces between ‘ordering a ship’ and ‘launch’ did they play a role. Was it in the translation of design into a specified contract, or in the proces of building a ship from the measures as stated in the contract? Jan
  3. amateur
    Niiiice! Did you consider replacing the props with a transparant disc? Some diorama builders do to solve the discrepancy between the speed shown and a non-moving prop. Jan
  4. amateur
    When I take pics of my model and show them 'larger than life', all kinds of unwanted specs, uneven surfaces, blobs of glue etc show up. Yours only show impeccable craftmanship. A joy to look at. Jan
  5. amateur
    Any country in mind? Or just ‘period’? Not much available , I think: it is either earlier (mayflower, Wasa), or quite a bit later: victory or cuttty sark (i know, there is more than these four ) Only one that comes to my mind is Friesland (mamoli), around 1670, but outside your scale range (1:75) Jan
  6. amateur
    Nope: wood is not metal. There is more to gain from prebending your wood, in order to prevent stress. (Using moisture/heat/and sometimes a template to get the correct bend) After assembling your hull will be (at least almost) symmetrical, so that remaining stress will more or less ‘even out’. As far as my knowledge goes: after carefully bending and fitting your planks, they should attach with relatively little stress. Therefore, once you glue them (both to the bulkheads and their neighbors) there is no need, and no method for stress relieving. In fact: any excessive heat/moisture after building your hull will damage your work. Jan
  7. amateur
    Any thoughts on long-term colour-changes? Matching the colour of the surrounding wood might be tempting, but if that material doesn’t change colour, and the wood does (or they both change in opposite directions) going for contrast might be a better option from the start. I like the crispness of the windows and the scrollwork. Jan
  8. amateur
    Yup, that is what I mezn. That first pic is very, very convincing. jan
  9. amateur
    You should stop fooling us: photoshopping pics of the original into your workbench. Honestly: placed in a dioramasetting, and on a (BW) foto taken from a low angle it would be difficult to see this is ‘just’ a model. Jan
  10. amateur
    Have you seen Tom Grigats version of this kit on Youtube (Toms modelling in Motion). You can do fantastic things with this kit…. Jdn
  11. amateur
    Nice lines! Jan
  12. amateur
    Are there any sails on the model? Set 'square' looks a bit boring, compared to the more 'dynamic looking 'braced ons. But set at an angle with sails, I have read (somewehere on this vast forum....) that the upper yards actually should be braced closer to the wind than the lower ones. If so an equal angle for all the yards is not as static/boring as the square setting, but it might trigger some comments of the type 'that your sail-handling it al wrong' From a more practical point of view: the angled setting saves some space/glass for your glass show case. Jan
  13. amateur
    On display in the museum on Texel. Still not seen it, high on my wishlist. jan
  14. amateur
    Hi Phil, I got a message that you answered my post, butvthere is no answer…. Did you delete it? Jan
  15. amateur
    Hi Phil, I guess you know the build-logs by Doris. She does not stick the wood-grain onto cardboard before planking, but she first 'planks' her ship, and uses the woodgrain stuff as a final layer on top of the 'planked', puttied and sanded hull. She closes the hull not with long card 'planks', but using the "shipyard"-method, using cardbord in a vertical orientation between the frames. Jan
  16. amateur
    Found it Jan
  17. amateur
    Buildlog, please…….
  18. amateur
    Lashings for small topmasts wete not yotally uncommon at the time. Especially round the mediterranean. As far as I remember, the reconstructions of Santa Maria also show this kind of setup. Also on the large galleys they used lashings as means to connect large pieces of wood for the main yards. Jan
  19. amateur
    Yes, that’s am impresive one. Tom builds very beautiful models, clean crisp paintwork. How he combjnes that with stop-motion is unbeleivable. Jan
  20. amateur
    Have you tried contacting @*Hans*? He should be able to help you Jan
  21. amateur
    Crosstree, thanks, that was the word I was looking for… but the ship is the Harriet McGregor, and I cant’t find sny pics of her (or any model of her) showing a mizzen top with shrouds. At least not with enough shrouds to have a full set of futtock shroulds, or ratlines to the top of the mizzen mast. Hence my question whether the top as shown on the model is correct Jan
  22. amateur
    Or… was rhere a top, or just a kind of spreader? There were no shroulds
  23. amateur
    Scaldis has some nice ones also. or Wilhelmshafener: https://www.papermod.com/D-Shop-23/contents/de/d8.html Jan
  24. amateur
    Hello Pierre, Welcome to MSW. I can’t help you with the requested drawing. The only thing I can do to help you is suggesting that you put an ‘informative title’ on your topic. Something like ‘looking for Aeropicola Serapis drawings’ Btw we have a ‘new members -section’ Putting a messgae overthete, presenting youself, will draw some attention to you, and your question here. Jan
  25. amateur
    Did someone take a bottle of real-life black boatlacquer home to paint his model? It does nog have the looks of just black paint: it's very high gloss and a rather thick layer. Almost llike the real thing. Do you know the age of the model? That might help to identify what was used. I was wondering whether a putty-repair should be done, or a repair in wood. Some kinds of putty contract differently to moisture-variations than real wood. In that case, you will have a crackline were wood and putty meet rather soon. On the other hand: the dammage is a rather messy one, so just adding a pieco of wood, is not straightforward either..... Jan

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