kurtvd19
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Everything posted by kurtvd19
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Elijah: I will check if I have more stain mixed - if not I wrote the mix proportions down so can do up some more. Kurt- 228 replies
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- gunboat
- model shipways
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The IPMS Journals have ads in the back from members willing to do such builds.
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The C/A glue from CLC is mfg by Bob Smith Industries in Ataskadero, CA. They make the best C/A products in my opinion. They put the customer's name and logo on the bottles thus the CLC name and logo on the bottle. Bob Smith Ind also makes/supplies the fine tip applicators - the only way to even consider applying C/A directly from the bottle. The Bob Smith C/A glues are available from many places - just look for the stores name on the bottle - the Bob Smith logo is on the bottom of the label on the back side of the bottle. Their accelerator is the only accelerator I have ever used that doesn't leave a white residue after use. Kurt
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- northeaster dory
- chesapeake light craft
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Bob: Sorry, but there doesn't appear to be anything other than the index to each of the books contained in the collection as shown below. The only detailed index is for the Modeling an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768 on page 59. Kurt Progressive Scratch-Building in Ship Modeling TABLE OF CONTENTS. Introduction………………………………………………4 Building the Bermuda Boat Corsair……………………6 Modeling an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768………….54 Building the Fair American……………………………189 Completing the Fair American……………………….262 Fair American Photo Album………………………….335 Fair American Plan Sheets…………………………...354
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Eric: Similar to what you tried - here is a photo of Chaperon on a series of timbers like used in a shipyard. You probably saw this photo before.
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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Don's book is available from Amazon and many other places for anywhere from $4.99 to $26.00 in hard and soft cover and both new and used. - this book is 138 pages - not likely to be available other than as a hard copy from a book vendor. There are numerous planking tutorials here on MSW under Modeling Techniques at the upper end of the home page. Kutr
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I just checked the 3 small drill presses I have here. I own the Micro-Lux Variable speed drill press. The column is 16" long x 1 3/16" dia. - it is solid steel and screws into the base plate. The solid steel column is mentioned in both this variable speed unit and the 3 speed units descriptions on the Micro Mark web site. The other two were owned by Steve Wheeler and will be sold to benefit the WI Maritime Museum. One is a Proxon unit. The column is 17" long x 3/4" diam - it is solid steel and screws into the base plate. It is tapped top and bottom about 1 1/8 deep - certainly a metric thread so I didn't check the size. The Proxon web site lists the column height as 12" - so this is the column that Steve replaced with the longer 16" piece. It is rock solid even with the longer column. The other that Steve had is a no-name Chinese unit with a 12" long x 1 3/16" diam tube. It is held into the base with a set screw. It is very solid but not anyway near the quality of the other units though I think it would meet the needs of 90% of modelers who are not tool junkies - it isn't pretty but Steve remarked that it did a good job when he used it. Kurt
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Except this is a 1 3/16" dia. solid steel piece about 12" long that was replaced with a similar piece 4 to 6" longer. Still pretty darn substantial.
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A longer column is nice to have. My late friend Steve Wheeler purchased a longer length piece of the right diameter off the internet. Sorry I don't know the source but it was a standard item from the place he purchased it. Kutr
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I have used the Thread Magic product for several years - don't remember exactly when I started to use it. When using bees wax it didn't always adhere to the line evenly and I was always having to drag the line across or through the bees wax multiple times to get good coverage and then between my thumb and index finger to work it into the line. None of this is necessary with the Thread Magic.
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Congratulations on a great model. I like all the extra details you added.
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- chaperon
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2020 NRG Conference
kurtvd19 replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Mike: As a NRG member you should have received an email last week - a constant contact email with other news too - about the cancellation. I was just reminded to make the announcement here - forgot about it totally with all the rest of the stuff happening. Like the Manitowoc cancellation. Kurt -
2020 NRG Conference
kurtvd19 replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
The conference reluctantly had to be cancelled due to the COVID-19 virus. We have confirmed with the museum and we will be rescheduling on (approximately) the same dates in 2021. Venue will be the same and the speakers we had confirmed are all on board for 2021. Kurt -
Mini Table Saw recommendations
kurtvd19 replied to captainscott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
One thing about a Byrnes saw is that it can be used outside the shop. I have a full size table saw and a good chop saw - both are heavy and when I had to do the window, door and baseboard trim in a home and shop addition I cut all the Red Oak trim - some of it 3/4" thick using my Byrnes saw in the room I was working on at the time. Saved a lot of walking and with a carbide blade it cut the Oak like butter. -
Take all the time you want with the base - I am enjoying this as much as the Philly itself. Kurt
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In response to the COVID-19 worldwide pandemic, and to help ease your time while practicing social distancing, the Nautical Research Guild has decided to make the digital edition of the Nautical Research Journal, Vol. 65.1 – Spring 2020, free for all to read and enjoy. Please share this digital edition with all your friends, family, and fellow modelers you think might enjoy, or need, a fun distraction. Our hobby is going through an adjustment with club meetings cancelled. But on the plus side, many modelers are now able to spend more time than ever in the shop. It is great for those of us that have this great hobby in common to be able to spend more time doing something we love rather than staring at the walls. We are all in this together, so take this opportunity to work on a model or researching your next project while stuck at home. If you wish to share this with your friends, family and fellow modelers, please share this link: https://thenrg.org/covid19. Stay safe, practice social distancing and do all you can to be here when this is all over. We hope you enjoy reading this issue of the Nautical Research Journal.
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No problem with the images - fair use applies. As to what kind of boat - it's up to you as I have seen photos of just about every type of small boat used on riverboats. John boats were common as were the type you show. I have seen photos with a mix of boats carried on the same riverboat. They were work boats meant to service the big boat. Some of the more prestigious riverboats certainly had matching boats but the smaller guys used what was available to them. I don't think you can go wrong with either of the two you show but if I was picking a boat to make that was easy to make I would go with a John Boat - no curves, flat bottom and easy to make.
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dull number drill bits
kurtvd19 replied to BETAQDAVE's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Dave: I make it a practice to anneal brass before working with it. Didn't used to do this for drilling but after I started doing it before drilling things went much easier. I am not a machinist so there will surely be other answers. Kurt -
The Museum has just decided that the 2020 Contest and Show is cancelled. Their website will be updated ASAP. The event will be held as usual the third weekend in May 2021. May 14-16 are the dates for 2021. Kurt
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Bob: Air bubbles will appear in the resin "water" a heat gun carefully directed at the top surface will cause them to rise and pop. I haven't done this myself but I know it's necessary from friend's experience. Check to Woodland Scenics web site - I think they tell how to do it with their "water' product - but all resins are similar in this respect. Kurt
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The display method is just as important as the model itself. No need to skip details of the display. It will help many who have not done it and want to try. I for one would appreciate you providing details. Kurt
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Pat: You might consider trimming the pieces added along side the mounting holes where they will later interfere with the garboard plank - before adding the bulkheads for ease in trimming. Kurt
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Stay-brite requires close fits - a bit looser than silver solder but not much. I have used it with a small torch - the Smith Little torch as well as a butane torch. I have also used it with resistance soldering - which I am coming to love. I haven't used it with a soldering iron but for smaller stuff it would probably work OK.
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I meant to say that the idea of baking to solder isn't so far off base. Airbrushes are assembled using an industrial process of baking the parts withe the solder and flux in place - but it's not something you can do at home.
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Do a search for previous discussions on soldering. Lots of great tips to be found. I have found that actual silver soldering is not really needed in our hobby for any issue of strength. I have used stay-brite a high silver content solder that melts at lower temps than silver solder and it can be blackened unlike regular soft solders. To get small flakes one can hammer solder flat and snip it off in small flakes. Much easier to do this with stay-brite than silver solders but that's the way to do it for them too. I have demonstrated and talked on silver soldering at several NRG Conferences or seminars and used to do it all the time but I have since switched to using stay-brite except when doing joints in close proximity to each other.
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