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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. In response to the COVID-19 worldwide pandemic, and to help ease your time while practicing social distancing, the Nautical Research Guild has decided to make the digital edition of the Nautical Research Journal, Vol. 65.1 – Spring 2020, free for all to read and enjoy. Please share this digital edition with all your friends, family, and fellow modelers you think might enjoy, or need, a fun distraction. Our hobby is going through an adjustment with club meetings cancelled. But on the plus side, many modelers are now able to spend more time than ever in the shop. It is great for those of us that have this great hobby in common to be able to spend more time doing something we love rather than staring at the walls. We are all in this together, so take this opportunity to work on a model or researching your next project while stuck at home. If you wish to share this with your friends, family and fellow modelers, please share this link: https://thenrg.org/covid19. Stay safe, practice social distancing and do all you can to be here when this is all over. We hope you enjoy reading this issue of the Nautical Research Journal.
  2. No problem with the images - fair use applies. As to what kind of boat - it's up to you as I have seen photos of just about every type of small boat used on riverboats. John boats were common as were the type you show. I have seen photos with a mix of boats carried on the same riverboat. They were work boats meant to service the big boat. Some of the more prestigious riverboats certainly had matching boats but the smaller guys used what was available to them. I don't think you can go wrong with either of the two you show but if I was picking a boat to make that was easy to make I would go with a John Boat - no curves, flat bottom and easy to make.
  3. Dave: I make it a practice to anneal brass before working with it. Didn't used to do this for drilling but after I started doing it before drilling things went much easier. I am not a machinist so there will surely be other answers. Kurt
  4. The Museum has just decided that the 2020 Contest and Show is cancelled. Their website will be updated ASAP. The event will be held as usual the third weekend in May 2021. May 14-16 are the dates for 2021. Kurt
  5. Bob: Air bubbles will appear in the resin "water" a heat gun carefully directed at the top surface will cause them to rise and pop. I haven't done this myself but I know it's necessary from friend's experience. Check to Woodland Scenics web site - I think they tell how to do it with their "water' product - but all resins are similar in this respect. Kurt
  6. The display method is just as important as the model itself. No need to skip details of the display. It will help many who have not done it and want to try. I for one would appreciate you providing details. Kurt
  7. Pat: You might consider trimming the pieces added along side the mounting holes where they will later interfere with the garboard plank - before adding the bulkheads for ease in trimming. Kurt
  8. Stay-brite requires close fits - a bit looser than silver solder but not much. I have used it with a small torch - the Smith Little torch as well as a butane torch. I have also used it with resistance soldering - which I am coming to love. I haven't used it with a soldering iron but for smaller stuff it would probably work OK.
  9. I meant to say that the idea of baking to solder isn't so far off base. Airbrushes are assembled using an industrial process of baking the parts withe the solder and flux in place - but it's not something you can do at home.
  10. Do a search for previous discussions on soldering. Lots of great tips to be found. I have found that actual silver soldering is not really needed in our hobby for any issue of strength. I have used stay-brite a high silver content solder that melts at lower temps than silver solder and it can be blackened unlike regular soft solders. To get small flakes one can hammer solder flat and snip it off in small flakes. Much easier to do this with stay-brite than silver solders but that's the way to do it for them too. I have demonstrated and talked on silver soldering at several NRG Conferences or seminars and used to do it all the time but I have since switched to using stay-brite except when doing joints in close proximity to each other.
  11. I have used these tools for years and they are great for what I use them for - rough quick flattening or shaping of wood - and fiberglass. I have a flat 1.5 inch wide by 8 inches long piece that I keep real handy for making sure bases of parts are flat. Touch up with a sanding stick to smooth the parts I use the perma-grit tools on. I am not sure if the tools I have are by this company but the tools I have come in several different "grits" for coarse or finer work.
  12. Pat: Check with Bob but I just checked my list and he has a CD of one of our programs - Copper Plate Coloration that shows this if I am not mistaken. Doc did a whaler using the flame technique that made an outstanding example of a coppered hull.
  13. It's not holding up the motor - the bungee goes under the base aluminum plate. Maybe to keep the rotating assembly from freewheeling? I am sure it's not to fix something.
  14. I am making this available from a good friend and local modeler from our area. I will personally vouch for him being 100% trustworthy and the product being as advertised. Asking price is $400 plus actual shipping costs. Reply with PM to me and I will provide contact info for the seller. I vouch for him 100% - and I will be helping him to get it properly packed and shipped. Shown in the photo: The machine Power unit Extra O rings Two extra take up reels Six extra “bobbins” Multiple inserts for line size Allen wrench Extra axle for four strand line
  15. Chuck Time flies when you are having fun (my Mothers favorite saying) - Vegas was 2018. But yes he did attend that conference.
  16. Pat: Doc used C/A and we used C/A in Manila. Allows for some adjustment unlike contact adhesive. As to the adhesive burning off - use forceps over a flame at the stove - with the exhaust fan going. Vary the time in the flame to vary the appearance. Know that you will get glue on your fingers that will need to be removed before appearing in public.😄
  17. Bob: Badger Airbrush makes a primer paint especially for 3D parts - Called 3D Prime. Compatible and it evens the small steps out. It's available from our MSW Sponsor USA Airbrush Supply. i haven't shot any of this myself but I have seen parts that it was used on. https://usaairbrushsupply.com/t/new--featured-products
  18. Pat: When we get back to meetings I know Bob is planning in the ongoing coppering series to show how Doc and some others have used fire to make the individual plates look weathered. The paper backing burns off either in the oven or the BBQ. Don't laugh the results are very nice - unless you are looking to have the bottom look like a brand new penny. I don't know if Bob's got this on CD from an earlier presentation but it wouldn't hurt to call him. Kurt
  19. I had to make this same kind if fitting. The steps I used are shown in the photos. Small files were used to round off the square edges. Polished and then plated.
  20. Jim: Thanks. Another member has a copy and offered it too. I need to check with our Editor about him checking with the library that provided the initial permission to see if we can reprint it. I will get back to you - and the other offer - ASAP. If we can do it we would want to copy the best copy. Thanks for the offer. Kurt
  21. I have extracted the reprints of The Complete Ship-Wright and they are now available from the NRG Office. There are 80 pages of information. The cost is $5.00 (US) Kurt The Complete Ship-Wright, Edmund Bushnell, third edition, London, 1669. This book is considered the first known printed English book dealing with the topic of naval architecture and was initially published in 1664 by W. Leyburn for George Hurlock. Reprint from Journals 29.3, 30.1, 30.2 and 30.3 69 Pages – Includes Tables 3, 4, 5 and Size of Small Cordage Also included is Books as a Key to Ship Modeling Success, by Charles O. McDonald from NRJ 31.1 This article includes Table of Size of Small Cordage from The Complete Ship-Wright. For now, the PDF files are available from the NRG Office only. The cost is $5.00 (US), and the PDFs will be emailed to you upon payment. Call the NRG Office at 585-968-8111 with your credit card information or to get our PayPal address to pay using PayPal. This information will be available for purchase from the NRG Website Store in the near future. Added: Anyone who owns the NRG's First 40 Years CD set has this information on their discs.
  22. Alan: Thanks for asking but these issues are still under copyright so please don't copy them for others. Parts of the issues mentioned by Allan are available from the NRG Store but I am unable to say exactly what is contained in the articles available due to the description in the store (we will get these better identified in the near future). However, due to the interest that has been expressed here about the book and it being unavailable, I have checked out our back issue discs and while looking up the articles mentioned by Alan found that the previous year the Complete Shipwright was reprinted in 4 parts. I will be extracting these articles plus the tables in Alan's post and we will make them all available from the NRG Office shortly - within a week for a modest cost. Don't bother the office until after I announce here that the copy's are available - they will be pdf's. Kurt
  23. I also contacted our Journal Editor who said the only copies he is aware of are the ones already mentioned. If anybody has a copy of the NRG reprint that they would make available to us we can investigate what would be needed to reprint it in some manner. Kurt
  24. You might also look at the Skiff kit from Bluejacket. They also make an Optimist Dinghy kit.
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