kurtvd19
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Everything posted by kurtvd19
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Gary: Great work. A tip for the tires. There are usually some holes drilled in the bottom of the tire to let water drain out. About 1-inch diameter. Kurt -
Yes that was established by others. I emailed him but I am not going to give out his email. That's why I said to call or write him.
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Pat: Badger has a fairly new primer paint for 3D printed parts. It is called 3D Prime. It's made to stick well to the 3D printed parts - some paints have difficulty sticking - and they smooth out the surface pretty good. As part of the 3D Prime line they have a translucent primer called 3D Surface Smoother that handles the rougher striations but your parts look smoother than one that need this option. 3D Prime is designed for airbrushing like all of their paints but can be brushed. With guns I wouldn't try brushing with any paint but if I remember correctly you do have an airbrush.
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This is Bob's information from a club newsletter. I have communicated with him recently and he is selling the motor upgrade kits. Call or write him if you want a kit. Kurt Ship Ahoy Models 39 Pearl Road Saugus, MA 01906 Equipment For Sale • Model Maker’s Thickness Sander, 1/4 HP motor • 6" Tilt Table Disc Sander, 1/4 HP motor • Seizing and Serving Tool. • Upgrade your Preac table saw with 1/3 HP motor; Complete Kit - motor, cord, 1/4" V belt, motor mount and base - $100 <http://www.shipahoymodels.com/> Bob Prezioso 781 231-0212
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Here is some info on transverse chains from a talk at a NRG Conference in St. Louis, MO in 2013 presented by Jack Custer a noted expert on steamboats. Jack was the Editor and Publisher of the Egregious Steamboat Journal. The talk was on Steamboat Architecture. A photo of the J.M. White is also included. I think the drawings and photos were printed in the Egregious Steamboat Journal at some time.
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I thought the photo I have was of the J.M. White but I must be mistaken. The photo I was thinking of was provided by Ralph DuPae who found/provided most of the photos in the museum's collection.
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I agree when it's small scales. I build most models at 1/24 or 1/12 and some at 1/48 and it shows at these scales.
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Stay-Brite blackens very well.
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The scriber from UMM is very good - have used one many times UMM03 UMM™ Third Generation Scriber SCR-03 "Universal" I have used it mostly on plastic to delineate door and window seams/openings in scratch built tugs where there is a line visible where panels and components join. However, I agree with Roger that scribing the deck will give you an unrealistic appearance.
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Stay-Brite has plenty of strength to with sand any amount of tension that can be put on rigging a model ship. I have used it with wire rigging on 1/12 scale models. I would say that the yards or even the mast will break before a Stay-Brite joint. Used to use silver solder all the time - started with radio control boats and needed it for certain joints - rudder, control arms, etc. Tried Stay-Brite on those joints and tried to break them and gave up and it's very rare that I use silver solder today.
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I was told there will be no new books but I am sure Bob will continue to sell the remaining books on hand. If you want any buy them ASAP.
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Glad you resisted the urge to get a photo floating on the river
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When I want wood to be smooth I use an automotive body filler meant to fill scratches in final or close to final sanding. It adheres to wood w/o any problem. Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. This isn't meant to fill massive dents, dips are voids - that's regular body filler Bondo. I use an old credit card as a squeegee to force the filler into the wood grain - don't let it build up. When cured I sand it and see how smooth it is. If you want the part to look like metal or fiberglass multiple coats might be needed. Some use Spackle wall hole filler the same way.
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Unless the motor is classed for use in a spray booth with combustible vapors (NEC Class 1 Division 1) you are just asking for trouble. Using a house fan in place of a properly classed exhaust fan is an accident waiting to happen. It's not IF a fire will occur but WHEN. Water based acrylics are the only safe paint to use in a spray booth not using the proper type of fan. No amount of filtration in front of the motor makes this safe - filters only trap particulate matter not the dangerous fumes. The rate you mention is the lower and upper combustible limits of a combustible or flammable liquid - the % of combustible vapors to air mix. Good luck.
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BUYING A "PAINT SET"
kurtvd19 replied to MadDogMcQ's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I agree with Grant - buy what you know you will use and then add colors as the need arises. -
Eric: Feel even better about it because I had absolutely no input on the selected images so the model made it without my positive bias toward riverboats. Kurt
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Yes it was there and still is. It can be read off the NRG website or downloaded as a PDF. The link is below: https://thenrg.org/resource/articles/materials-in-ship-models
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Try Krylon Premium Metallic - Original Chrome. Works great.
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Check the directions (page 12) - the rabbet is only needed on the last scale foot of the plank ends. Sanding will work as shown in the photo from the instruction book (below). However, the gains on this boat are different. Each is a sloping rabbet, rebate or recess, cut along the last scale foot or so at each end of the plank. This gain is a scale inch wide. You can measure this using the scale rule (page 7). Mark this distance on the edge of a paper strip, then transfer this measurement to the plank. Carefully cut along the line with a sharp blade. Don’t press too deeply! Then shave the slope using a chisel blade in your craft knife handle. Make the deep end of the rabbet no more than about ⅓ the thickness of the plank. At the transom the planks fit as shown here (below right).
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My Space Saving/Mobil paint Booth...Mario
kurtvd19 replied to Cap'n Rat Fink's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Images are to be attached to your posts here - not on 3rd party sites.- 1 reply
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350's are real workhorses. Also capable of good paint jobs. I can point to 6 models that took gold at Manitowoc where the paint jobs didn't hurt the results. They have to be the easiest to clean too.
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I recommend the Badger Modelflex Marine Paints - acrylic paints ready for spraying. MSW sponsor USA Airbrush Supply carries these paints. Simple shake to use. Note that when you go to the sponsors on the right hand side of the main page here there is a line of text that says to use a NRG discount code at check out. USA Airbrush has the lowest prices for these paints and then an additional discount.
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I rinse with water, then a cleaner I mix. Use it between colors and then at the end of the day I do the same, remove the needle and reapply needle juice when I put it back into the brush. Final thing I do when done for the day is to spray a short eyedropper of Lacquer thinner through it. Have never had a problem with a dirty brush but have cleaned many up for friends who were not as thorough.
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That's what I thought and at the premium price I was paying for outside GB I decided to drop it.
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