Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

kurtvd19

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,997

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    With the difficulties of soldering/welding aluminum why not just use brass rod. It's easy to bend to shape and can be soldered easily. The photos show brass rod bent to shape and soldered together (the kit provided aluminum tube that was to be glued together). The brass rod can be plated or painted. Krylon makes a spray chrome paint -Premium Metallic Original Chrome that was decanted from the can and then airbrushed onto the parts in the photos. Stay-Brite solder was used with resistance soldering with the parts on the model - the perfect jig - the resistance soldering doesn't transmit enough heat to affect the model. The parts were removed from the model, painted and reattached to the model after the hull was painted.
  2. kurtvd19
    Got mine this AM. It sure was quick. Thanks Frank Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Go to the link below to see the clubs that might be near you. Not every club is listed Note to others reading this: If your clubs isn't listed send your info to the NRG so it can be put up onto the lists - also check if it's accurate - things might have changed since the info was put up there. Kurt https://thenrg.org/links-and-sources-for-the-ship-modeler.php
  4. kurtvd19
    I have the tilting table and have used exactly one time. It was critical to the job and it more than paid for itself with the time and materials saved on that job. I can't think of another use for it - at least in my case - so unless I am commissioned to build another barge with sliding covers it will probably just gather dust. The sliding sled is much more useful for future consideration. Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Welcome to MSW and model boat building. This is a great place to learn about the hobby. You might want to check out the local area model ship club in Denver - The Rocky Mountain Shipwrights. A great group who will welcome you. https://rockymountainshipwrights.org/ Kurt
  6. kurtvd19
    Welcome to MSW Tom. We welcome you and your company. Note from Admin: CAF now meets all criteria as a legitimate MFG of ship model kits. They have stopped producing all kits based on source material they did not have the rights to use, mainly from Ancre. The kits currently available on their website including the Enterprise, are perfectly fine and original works not taken without consent from other authors, designers and mfg's. We are currently helping Tom at CAF to acquire the proper rights through an agreement with Ancre to make any Ancre kits legally allowable. Until such time all CAF /Ancre inspired kits are not allowed on MSW. But we are hopeful they soon will be. CAF has stopped mfg them and selling these Ancre related kits voluntarily after admitting he copied the material from Ancre without consent. Negotiations are currently underway to rectify that situation. We will make an announcement as soon as they reach an agreement. Yes there is some leftover stock of these Ancre CAF kits available through distributors which you can buy but they are still prohibited from being built within a build log here on MSW until the agreement is finalized.
  7. kurtvd19
    Denatured alcohol will wipe away pencil line - just remember to only use a white cloth or the alcohol will leave a colored rag's color on the wood.
  8. kurtvd19
    The video Ron posted of Ken's Intro to Airbrushing is something I recommend to all those new to airbrushing. The most complete short seminar out there. To Dave's question about cleaning between coats (sorry I didn't see your text message till just a few minutes ago) there is no need when using acrylics to wait between coats on something like a hull. By the time one paints the port side with a second coat the starboard side is ready for it's second coat. There is a tendency for paint to dry on the tip of the airbrush with any paint but with acrylics it collects quicker and heavier. It's always best to preemptively flick the dried paint off the tip than to wait till you see it affecting the paint application. Experience will help to know how long this takes with the paint, pressure and atmospheric conditions. But as long as the airbrush isn't set down for other than short periods there shouldn't be any need to clean it between coats of paint. If stopping for lunch, clean it to the point there is no residual paint showing on a clean paper towel. At the end of the day always do a thorough cleaning. Take care, Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    I like the natural look. Might the shingles be a use for laser board? Being thinner to start the might not need sanding. Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    If you are only blackening then I would have no concern using a stainless steel sieve. But if you plan to do any plating the Sparex may be contaminated by the SS if it isn't of high quality and then interfere with the plating process. Copper tweezers or the plastic alternatives mentioned are needed if plating is a possibility. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    JUST TO LET EVERYONE WAITING FOR THEIR COPY OF YOUNG AMERICA II BY ED TOSTI THAT THE BOOKS HAVE FINALLY REACHED THE WAREHOUSE AND SHIPPING OF ALL BACK ORDERS WILL BEGIN SHIPPING TODAY. IT'S JUST THAT MY PRINTER KEEPS FINDING NEW AND NOVEL WAYS TO CREATE NEAR "FUBAR" SITUATIONS. THANKS FOR EVERYONE'S PATIENCE. BOB fRIEDMAN
  12. kurtvd19
    The Planking Kit is now available in the NRG Store. Please note the 3 options to buy - US, Canada, Other . Please click on the correct link for where you live. Remember NRG members get 20% off. https://thenrg.org/half-hull-planking-kit.php Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    The Planking Kit is now available in the NRG Store. Please note the 3 options to buy - US, Canada, Other . Please click on the correct link for where you live. Remember NRG members get 20% off. https://thenrg.org/half-hull-planking-kit.php Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    Mark: I just dropped off the kit at the PO. Says it is due for delivery on Saturday. Have fun. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    It is a kit. Start a log in the kit builds. When several are started we can set it up in the group build area.
  16. kurtvd19
    Welcome aboard
  17. kurtvd19
    Eric: Sorry. The extended rip fence is $30 and well worth it. The Miter Gauge adjustable extension is $12 and well worth it. I got the prices messed up. The $8 miter bar I mentioned isn't such a good buy when the adjustable extension is only $12. The micrometer stop isn't needed in my opinion. The saw does not have markings for width of cuts. Use a metal scale to measure from the blade to the rip fence. If you are going to be cutting planking make an adjustable tool to set the width like the one I made - photos attached. Absolutely no difference in plank width because the tool isn't moved between planks - the rip fence moves but the tool to the left of the blade sets the width. Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    Eric: You will never regret buying one. I would get the extension bar for the miter gauge. There is a plain one for $8 or the adjustable one for $30. I add a longer piece of hardwood to the $8 bar when I am doing angled cuts - attached with double faced tape. If I have occasion to order something else from Jim I will probably pick up the $30 adjustable one - but I haven't had any issue with just adding another piece with the tape. But you really need one or the other. The extended fence is a very good - must have - addition. I think the std fence is just too thin - but I also use a big Bissemer (sp?) style fence on my 10" saw. A couple of zero clearance inserts so you can have one matched to each blade you use. The other accessories are luxuries. I purchased the tilting table and have used it one time in several years - it paid for itself on that job but it hasn't been used since. Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Welcome to MSW
  20. kurtvd19
    I will have to check my files - I didn't have the photos I posted, noted as being from a later build. I will check the UofW library. Ralph would have had the right boat noted in their files. The photos in my collection that I am sure are of the correct Chaperon seem to show the same type of boat as in the photos I posted. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    Bob Friedman, the owner of SeaWatch Books is hospitalized. He is getting better and expects to be home sometime this week. Please be patient if you have placed orders or sent emails to SeaWatch recently. Bob will be able to answer emails and process orders soon. He asks that you be patient and that he will answer emails and process orders ASAP. Thanks, Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    That computer generated Chaperon is neat. The guy seems to have used a lot of sources to put it together but I think there are a lot of presumptions - especially the interior. The interior looks just way too elegant to be accurate from the history I was able to find on the Chaperon. I could be wrong about this and I would sure be interested in seeing more of the documentation he used. I will try to find out more. As to the life boat I have attached two photos from my files that clearly shows it tied off alongside. Other photos I have seem to support this being the same boat are small and unable to be enlarged enough to confirm it's the same boat. There were changes to most steamboats over time and the aft boiler deck cabin structure is different than the kit. I have photos of the Chaperon that show the aft end that agrees with the kit. But there is documentation of several rebuilds of the Chaperon over time and none of the photos have been dated. The photos were taken from various sources - obviously none are copyrighted. As to rudders, I have not sen any photographs that show the rudders and I wouldn't say if it had two or three forward rudders. I have never seen any evidence of monkey rudders behind the wheel. If you like the look of three rudders go for it - there isn't anything that I have seen that would say it had two or three but three was very common.
  23. kurtvd19
    Greg: I have used the paste/flux combo and it works great with a torch. Have not tried it with the resistance soldering but I expect it would work fine. You are so right about warming the piece and that the solder flows to the heat - a very important point that isn't stressed enough.
  24. kurtvd19
    I have used it with resistance soldering as well as a torch.
  25. kurtvd19
    No need. Members can see this thread and know their problem will be addressed by Model Expo.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...