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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    Ship-it: Go to the last post on the last page of the link Chris provided about the banned kits issue - to see if your kit mfg. is listed. You can skip all of the prior posts - as the last post is the final word on the issue. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    The stack should not face into the wind - otherwise the stack doesn't work and it gets real smokey below decks real quick besides playing havoc with the stove fire. Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Thanks for the reminder Eric. Just posted it there. Thanks, Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    I just got a new listing of towboat and riverboat plans available from John Fryant of Paddlewheels & Props. He now has the Alan Bates plans available - I was worried that these plans were lost to us when Alan died. I thought I would share them with the other riverboat fans. Kurt PADDLE WHEEL - PROPS - FRYANTS- PRICE LIST 11-17.pdf
  5. kurtvd19
    Eric: I just got a new listing of towboat and riverboat plans available from John Fryant of Paddlewheels & Props. He now has the Alan Bates plans available - I was worried that these plans were lost to us when Alan died. I thought I would share them with you and the other riverboat fans following your build log. Kurt PADDLE WHEEL - PROPS - FRYANTS- PRICE LIST 11-17.pdf
  6. kurtvd19
    I would go with a flat barn red or oxide red - same color just different names depending on your source. Any shade of the oxide red would be good. Applied over a white primer it will be lighter and over a black primer it would be darker. No primer - neutral. Absolutely no gloss paint. Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    I agree 100% with Eric. Cost and availability and also the red didn't show dirt and crud as much as white. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    Elijah: Either C/A or epoxy will do the job. Just make sure it's a tight fit - no gaps if you use C/A. The epoxy will fill a small a gap. Then paint. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    Part of the definition of Silver Soldering is that the solder melts at a temp greater than 780 deg F or 420 deg C. The product you show lists a melting point of 430 deg F so it's not a true silver solder. But read on - it's probably more than adequate. I have a product similar to what you show - Silver Solder Paste with Flux from Pro-Craft and it is available in "Easy" with a melting point of 1240 deg F, also as "Medium" with a melting point of 1275 deg F and "Hard" with a melting point of 1365 deg F. I have used this quite a bit and it's fairly easy to use. Stay-brite also has a melting point of 430 deg F and I have found it completely adequate - see the discussion at The info below is info taken directly from my Silver Soldering Power Point that has been presented at 2 NRG Conferences. The IT would probably never find a use in modeling unless one is doing an operating boiler. The easy flow is used mostly by jewelers for repair work as it's use will not undo previous work. I have been told that easy flow can be used on photo etch but I myself would use stay-brite for photo etch.
  10. kurtvd19
    I have found that in almost all cases in static modeling silver soldering is not needed. I have found that stay-brite silver solder (J. W. Harris Co #11000) is completely adequate for static modeling purposes. It's listed as silver solder on the container but when it is opened and the instructions are unfolded it is called stay-brite silver bearing solder. It melts and flows at 430 degrees F and has a tensile strength of 10,600 psi. I defy anybody to put enough tension on a rigging line to exceed that rating. The percentage of Silver it contains is shown as 3-6 percent and Tin at 94-97 percent. It is lead and cadmium free I can't imagine any need for more strength in a static model. I do true silver soldering on radio controlled boat rudders and control arms. But the stay-brite has been perfectly adequate for all the hand rails and other metal parts on even 1/12 scale r/c boats. Stay-brite mimics true silver solder in the way if flows into joints. It can be blackened using the same stuff used to blacken the joined parts. It's also great for resistance soldering. I found out with a lot of use that the liquid flux that comes with it works fine but I have switched to Nokorode soldering paste (flux) by M. W. Dunton Co. due to my being able to put the paste flux exactly where i want it unlike the liquid flux. I also prefer it due to less oxidation and base metal distortion than with true silver soldering. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    Mark: What's being described are chemicals being added to wood and a reaction starts - and then doesn't stop unless something is done to stop it. Neutralizing as you mentioned stops it. I would be very careful about doing anything that isn't able to be neutralized. Not hard to dobefore it is installed but difficult after. Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    I will bet that the crummy job in MN was a lot better than any of the ones I saw in the Philippines. Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    Ken: Yeah, they use a lot of them for that in the Philippines. Stacked about 5 high with rickety ladders to each level. Nothing goes to waste there. Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    Ken: In case you want to do a model for the son-in-law of a smaller "container ship" here's a prototype photo. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    Eric: Think about carving a block for each side of the stempost with the shape you described and plank over it it like any other sharp bow. Kurt
  16. kurtvd19
    Eric; I just reread your question and my reply and photo didn't address the actual question as the Chaperon's bow is not what you described. Sorry. Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    Eric: The attached photo of the Chaperon hull shows how the round turn of the bilge was planked. Narrower boards make it easy to plank this area. Does this help any? Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    The collar was absolutely a rain shield due to the clearance needed between the stack and combustible construction. Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Eric: Check the Murphy Library at the Univ. of Wisconsin at LaCrosse. Ralph DuPae collected photos for years and they are all in this library. Ralph helped me a lot with photos I needed for research. I didn't have to use the library because Ralph and I sat side by side as he searched for the photos I needed before all the photos ended up at the U. The digital collection is quite extensive. Only 2 photos of the Arabia though and they are of equipment. Kurt https://uwdc.library.wisc.edu/collections/LaCrosseSteamboat/
  20. kurtvd19
    I was going to suggest watching Paul Budzik's video as it is very good and accurate. You might need heat sinks between joints as Paul describes. Do not use a torch - the photo etch will not stand up to the heat. I watched a guy destroy several pieces before switching to a small pencil point iron. If you have access to a resistance soldering unit with a rheostat to turn it way down it will work also. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    Tiger The photos attached show how I clamped some planks in place using rubber bands and some scrap to hold the pressure where it was needed. I used this method to hold the whetted planks in place while they dried in place and then again when they were glued in place. The third photo was from my late friend Joel Sanborn (a NRG and MSW member who's greatly missed) showing how he held planks in place while building the same model - the Gunboat Philadelphia kit by MS. Maybe these will be useful to you. Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Vossey: Go to the link below where Eric has a bunch of photos from the Museum and general info on the Arabia. I will post photos here IF I get there - sometimes the best laid plans..... Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    Eric: I'm on board. The Arabia is a fascinating story. I'm planning a spring trip to KC to see the museum again - last saw it the year they opened. Kurt
  24. kurtvd19
    The $11 price was a special sale. Need to check back their occasionally as I am sure they repeat sales. Kurt
  25. kurtvd19
    I got 2 sets for myself and another 2 for a buddy. I decided that I needed to line the drawers with felt as the wood just seemed to be an unfinished storage system - not knocking the quality or anything I just like my tools store neatly. So I went to the local Hobby Lobby with my 40% discount coupon (never go there w/o the coupon) and got some self-adhesive felt sheets. The first photo shows the drawer on the right as it comes with the 4 dividers in place. They are securely glued in place but only along their bottom edge and were easily loosened up with a few taps from a jewelers brass hammer and removed and set aside. The felt was trimmed to size and adhered to the drawer bottoms. With the thin felt the dividers still fit in place w/o interfering with the drawer closing. I set all of the dividers aside for now as I don't think I will be using many of them if any. Glad I got these - thanks for the heads up they are well worth the $$. Kurt

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