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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    Eric: You nailed it. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    Eric: A very nice build. I like the colors too. I built the Bluejacket Lobster boat with the fiberglass hull and the instructions and plans appear to have been much better with the kit I did as it's a newer kit and the instructions in their more recent offerings just keep getting better. I considered the same green color you used but used a lighter green. I attached two photos of my build. I agree with the paint issue - I switched to acrylics many years ago. When I opened the old Floquil paints my wife would immediately start to complain about the smell. For peace I started to investigate acrylics and have not used any solvent based paints other than rattle can primers (occasionally) and then out doors. Since Badger introduced their Stynylrez primers I use them indoors. In fact Mary will often be in the shop at the same time I am airbrushing with the Badger paints and doesn't mind the very slight odor. It's great being able to paint w/o a respirator - though I do use a spray booth - for the particulate issue not harmful fumes. What's next on the building board? Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    I love it - and the price but I can't find it on their web page. Spent 20 minutes w/o success - can you provide a link to the catalog page? Searched under tool drawers, drawers, storage drawers - w/o success as well as scrolling all over their various categories. Thanks, Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    Henry: Good point and 100% correct. However, they are not always properly aligned or closed before being opened and that's why I have the pliers. Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Soldering is a good cure but you need to get the two ends aligned so there is no visible gap between the ends before soldering. There are special loop closer pliers that squeeze the rings together w/o the tendency of common pliers to make them oval rather than round. The pliers have a curved shape cut into the jaws that hold the ring upright so the ring ends can be squeezed together. No need for an expensive pair as their use is light. Any jewelers supply has them and many places selling beading supplies too. The photo is from the Fire Mountain Gems catalog - I have a pair from this supplier. Kurt
  6. kurtvd19
    There is an article linked below from the Institute of Nautical Archaeology (INA) an organization member of the NRG, about a hull survey done in Fairbanks, Alaska of the Steamboat Nenana a museum boat in Pioneer Park. This might be of interest to the followers of this forum topic. There will be an expanded article in the next issue of the INA Quarterly and I will link it when available. Kurt https://nauticalarch.org/first-look-at-a-rare-northern-steamboat/
  7. kurtvd19
    I agree 100% with Keith. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    Eric: I went over the Bertrand info too with the same results. Also checked info on the the Arabia and the original data on the Heroine - but as Glenn Greico explained several times in his build log Kevin Crissman was routinely digging up facts as Glenn built the model. I also checked Glenn's build log and there is no evidence that he simulated caulking anyplace on the model and his models contain all the known details. I will be surprised if any info comes back showing that caulking was used. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    Chris: As far as I know it was just paint as many hulls were white. I think white might have been used more than black actually. I have never actually read anything about hulls or decks being caulked. All sources I have read say the hulls were fitted with smooth tight joints between the planks as well as the decks. Decks did have camber for water run off - which would only be rain as riverboats were not likely to get their decks wet otherwise in the protected rivers. You have my curiosity aroused and I will be contacting some nautical archaeologists about this issue of caulking. Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    Chris: Riverboats were painted. A lot of white paint was used for the superstructure and hulls but many hulls were black. The hull is hardly visible on most riverboats so this isn't very important - pick what you want. Decks were commonly red, brown and some green. The roofs were covered with tar paper so they were grayish black to black - the older the grayer. There are some great riverboat builds here - do a search for "Chaperon by Blighty" "Chaperon by Ron Grove" "City of Monroe by cborgm" "Steamboats and other river craft - a general discussion" andChaperon Sternwheeler Steamer 1894 by Mike Dowling These build logs will show you colors used and discussions about colors. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    Please welcome and thank "Navarino Models" for becoming a new sponsor of MSW. Navarino Models produce model kits of ancient and traditional Greek ships as well as commercial vessels. Visit their web site and check them out. I am happy they contacted us to become a sponsor. www.navarinomodels.com
  12. kurtvd19
    Chuck: Testor's also makes the decal papers. I have used the Testor's product with great success. The only problem is that printers do not print white but as it doesn't appear that you are using white it's not a problem. The print your own decal papers must be sealed after being printed with an ink jet printer or the inks will lift when wetted to apply. Testor's (and others) sell the clear coat in a rattle can. As with all decals they need to be applied over a smooth surface and dull or matt paints need to have some clear gloss applied first then the decal applied and then overcoated with dull coat or matt coat to match the model's surface. The clear overcoat also hides the edge of the decal film - as thin as it is w/o the overcoat you can see it. http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors/tools/decals/ Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    Airbrush the screen. I know somebody that would do it for you if needed. Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    Al: Check the blade for flatness using a piece of plate glass or something that is truly flat. If it's not flat get rid of it. If the blade is burned the metal's no good but if it's just "burned on" resins from the wood it can be cleaned up - if it's still flat. The clamp I used for the strip jig is an old aluminum X-Acto clamp. The portion that fits into the groove on the saw had to be narrowed, but a carbide tipped blade on the Byrnes saw did the job w/o any damage to the blade. Let us know how your next try comes along. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    Al: You didn't mention the blade being used - if you are using a fine slitting blade it's probably heating up, warping and causing the binding. However with you being right handed use the fence on the right side of the blade. A thin slitting blade with many teeth has a tendency to heat up because the blade doesn't have any set to the teeth and the sawdust isn't ejected like with a true wood cutting blade. Follow the attached photo and you will not have binding (except from a hot, warped blade). Using the fence as shown makes it safer too as the cut off piece also falls away from the blade. If "trapped" between the blade and fence the off-cut can be sent back at the operator by the blade's rotation. If you are cutting a bunch of strips of the same width use a set up like in the 2nd photo - it assures each strip is the same width in a safer manner. The guide on the left must be well forward of the blade - it's just used to set the width of the cut - the wood is guided just as shown in the first photo. Hope this helps. Kurt
  16. kurtvd19
    Elijah: You need to make sure that the joints do not touch the wood. If they do, capillary action can smear glue to any contacting surface. The professional jigs have a gap in the corners where each plane of the jig meets another. A 1/8" wide x 1/8" deep rabbit on each piece of the jig before you assembled it would do the job. If it's just screwed together no problem - unscrew, make the rabbit cuts and reassemble. Otherwise you will need to secure something to the jig pieces to provide a space at each intersection of the wood pieces. You need to keep it square so cover the entire wood surface except for the gap at the joints. If you can disassemble it but can't make the rabbit cuts, bring it to my shop and we can get it done. Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    Chris: Theyhave all periods. US supplier would be Walthers as per Jack's link. Sorry, don't know of anybody down under. Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    "O" Gage RR figures are 1/48 close to your scale. Any RR supplier will have period figures. Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    ER: On line works for joining and for purchases. Link to membership = http://www.thenrg.org/join-the-nrg.php The NRG store has a link right from the MSW home page - upper right corner of the tool bar - on some themes it's under "other" As to the lack of disc drives we are checking out USB Flash Drives. Roger: Thanks for pitching in. Kurt
  20. kurtvd19
    The shop notes books are compilations of some of the Shop Notes that were originally published in the Journals. Shop Notes 1 (the original) is from the first 25 years of the Journal. Each Shop Note was previously printed but spread out over 25 years. The Shop Notes 2 is comprised of Shop Notes from 1981 to 2005. There are no duplication between the books. The great thing about the Shop Notes books is the information is in a book and one doesn't have to go looking for each subject covered. If you want to see the Shop Notes on blocks they are all together rather than spread over 25 years worth of Journals. Some consider the Shop Note books to be a must have for all modeler's libraries. If your budget allows I would get the CD's and the SHop Notes. I have them in my library and other than the member discount I paid full price for them - I considered them as essential information. But, please, others pipe up here as this is only my opinion and others should give theirs. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    Just a tip about the CD's. The member's discount when buying both sets is significant ($42) and just abut pays for the membership ($50) and you get the next 4 issues of the Journal. You can join and purchase the CD's with a call to the office. Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Paul: I just got done testing some of the tapes you showed in the video. The FBS K-UTG Gold Tape is my new go to for fine masking. It will replace the 3M Fine Line I have been using. The FBS Autografix tape is great too. It's far better than anything except the K-UTG Gold for routine taping and for taping over the K-UTG Gold for wider coverage - and the low cost is appreciated. The Pro Mask dispenser will be well used on the larger models. Thanks for your fine videos and this one on masking was outstanding. Take care, Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    It's adjustable with a ratchet knob that loosens or tightens. I am sure that the mfg can tell you the max size it will fit. http://www.doneganoptical.com The phone is 913-492-2500. Kurt
  24. kurtvd19
    Go online - eBay has them direct from the mfg for a lot less. Don't waste money on the plastic lenses - get the glass lenses - you will not regret it. Kurt
  25. kurtvd19
    Scratch. The kit materials are not being used. Kurt

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