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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    Nic: Yeah, I did too. Looks like it's time to make a master and then cast them. I thought about bending/twisting them like you did and adding a bit of low temp solder to the ends and filing to get a master but I think starting from scratch will work better. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    Found a full size fairlead that's close. Looks like it's time to search through 40+ drawers of parts all in old manila 2" envelopes - I am sure I saw something close to this.
  3. kurtvd19
    Thanks Jim. I think the panama fairlead that AOS has is for a Panama Canal rated ship - it has a almost square profile while this chock is much lower profile. I have thought that I will have to cut and modify a closed chock and make a mold to cast copies. I have an inquiry in with the boats owner who's commissioned the model - I sketched and measured the fitting but I can't read my writing (unusual as I normally have very good lettering - but went cursive standing on a ladder in the boat shed). Thanks.
  4. kurtvd19
    I need to identify this fitting from a 26 ft sloop. It's some sort of chock or fairlead. The next question is does anybody make one of these fittings so I don't have to scratch a master and cast them? Need some about 3/8" to 1/2" long. I checked Bluejacket and Model Expo and some model yacht suppliers. No go. Any help would be appreciated - even if they were made by a defunct mfg as I inherited a load of old fittings from AJ Fisher, Baucher (sp), etc. - drawers full...if they made some I will search through the stuff I have. Thanks, Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Welcome to Sherline as a new Sponsor of MSW. They have set up a special landing page for ship modelers. Thanks Sherline for your support. Kurt
  6. kurtvd19
    The first build log - tune in tomorrow? Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    Welcome Master Korabel. Welcome to the NRG/MSW family of modelers. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    Pat: Wood glue will not work for attaching metal to wood. Either use C/A or epoxy. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    I didn't give him a lot the first time. Will make sure he's got enough this time. I only had a small container at the time and his ride was waiting. Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    Elijah: I can give you some more stain at the next meeting or if you can stop by. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    Deno: Had a childhood friend named Dennis - called him Deno. Go to the main page here at MSW and click on the KIT BUILDS. In the upper right of the page is the word search with a magnifying glass symbol to it's right. Type in the Enterprise 1799 there and click onthe magnifying glass image. There will be various Enterprise build logs there to scroll through. Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    Welcome Deno. It would be great to know your real name - you can add it in your profile. Go to the Kit Builds section and do a search for "Enterprise 1799" and you will see several build logs by members who have built this same kit. Look at their builds and start one of your own and show your progress or ask for guidance if you have difficulty. Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    The drying can be sped up with a hair dryer and I have done this many times w/o noticing any shrinkage. You have to be careful to not heat the wood excessively - that's why I use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun (have both - hair dryer's heat is adequate). As to shrinkage - I don't soak planks any longer than a minute and most times I allow them to dry clamped in place w/o any heat and have not experienced any shrinkage. If the plank doesn't get soaked enough to expand any appreciable amount and the plank is dried w/o heat the wood structure returns to normal equilibrium and the same size you started from. Allowing the plank to air dry assures that it returns to normal equilibrium with the shop's atmosphere thus no shrinkage. I would not glue planks when wet as any shrinkage as they dry has to set up stress on the frames/bulkheads - is that adequate to break the glue joint? Maybe. What's the rush? Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    There is no need for nails or other means of securing the planks if the wet plank is clamped in place as close as possible to the final curvature and allowed to dry. When dry any area of the plank needing an additional bend can be wet again locally and re-clamped in place to accommodate the additional curve. When dry if there are any slight gaps they can be closed with slight pressure when glue is applied and the plank clamped into the final position. Very little pressure is required as clamping is only needed for the glue to set. The gaps can be closed with slight edge pressure. One question that was asked was about clamping issues affecting the wood. Soft woods like basswood can be compressed by clamps - spread the force out with a wood block between the clamp and the wood. If a dent is made in the wood by a clamp it's able to be eliminated many times by wetting the wood at the dent and applying some heat to the area. As the heat can also loosen and reactivte the glue be sure to lightly clamp the plank on adjacent frames/bulkheads until the glue resets. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    As long as you apply the heat gently and don't overheat the wood to the point where the lignin boils, everything should cool off OK and the strength will not be affected. As others have cautioned - Be Careful. These things can start fires - I saw many fires started using these things for removing paint by pros and homeowners before I retired from the FD. Kurt
  16. kurtvd19
    As long as you make sure there isn't a burr on the cut end it should work perfectly. I had the opposite problem with another brand of micro chuck - the shaft was too short to go into my dental drill hand piece so I ah do de-solder the one that came in the chuck and replace it with one a bit longer - no problem as it is a std size. Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    Welcome to Flagship Models as a new Sponsor. Check out their new Civil War figures in 1/192 scale - other scales soon). They have been introducing new Civil War Ironclad models in a steady stream - great detail. Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    I don't brush paint except on very rare occasions and didn't try them with a brush, but I would not personally use them with a brush due to the rather coarse pigment that in my opinion would produce a rather coarse and heavy coat of paint. Thinning doesn't affect the pigment size of the paint so the coverage would look coarse (in my opinion). I did dab some onto some scrap wood in the shop and decided they were not worth spending time on. The old Floquil (solvent based) and the current Badger Modelflex Acrylic paints have a pigment that is very finely ground to about 1 micron. Other hobby paints are probably close but I have personal knowledge of the Floquil and Badger paints. Typical house paint has a pigment size of 17-19 microns - they all advertise "covers in one coat!". I find the MS paint unacceptable but that doesn't mean that other won't say they are the best thing since sliced bread. Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Derek: Stick with the airbrush paints. Hobby paints have a much finer pigment size than other paints. They are designed to not hide detail under a thick coat of heavy (large pigment) paint. The larger/coarser pigment paints hide detail. I do not recommend the MS paints - the pigment size is not comparable at all to an airbrushing paint. I had some donated to our club and I could not in good conscious pass it on to anybody who was contemplating airbrushing - it looked to me to be the same consistency as house paint. On the off chance that the stuff I examined was atypical when some time later a couple of jars were offered at another club's meeting I took a jar to check it out and my opinion did not change. I have over a dozen air brushes with small to large needles/tips and I wouldn't even try to use any of this stuff through any of my brushes. In fairness to Model Expo this is the only Model Shipway's labeled product I don't fully recommend. Do a search here on airbrushing - there are some very detailed posts by experienced users on using the right paints. Kurt
  20. kurtvd19
    Welcome to MSW Steve. Gerald Wingrove, a true master in metal is building a metal hull and I am sure his build will be of interest to you. His work is exceptional and highly detailed. A bit different than I think you are considering, but your time will not be wasted in checking his work out. Again, welcome to MSW. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    Welcome a new Sponsor to MSW - Chesapeake Light Craft. Their new model kits follow the same procedures used to build their full scale kit boats. Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Ron is right about alcohol. One issue with Acrylics is drying too fast - alcohol only intensifies the effect. Badger recommends using only distilled water for thinning their Acrylic paints which I use exclusively. I have never had to thin the Badger paints unless I left a jar open as they are of the proper consistency for airbrushing as supplied. Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    Mark: The photo shows on the right a 0.045" dia. crimp on 1 x 7 SS wire 0.012" dia. For 1/12 this would be a smaller line, but it's next to impossible to see that it is a crimp and for larger sizes be sure to use the special crimp pliers and you can get the crimp to be smooth except for the seam where the crimp is touching itself and it then appears as a line that is very hard to see any curvature of the piece. The bit to the left was an illustration to show what not to do. Kurt
  24. kurtvd19
    Yes, Lloyd retired and dropped his ad in the NRG's Journal last year (Lloyd was a long time NRG Director). Kurt
  25. kurtvd19
    Roger: Yes, it's the Russell Military Museum accessed from Russel Rd. I always called it the military junkyard until I found out it was a "museum" of sorts. There are some real gems in the collections, some of which are enclosed, while others are just out in the weather. The one PBR is operational and is occasionally operated on the IL Chain of Lakes - thus the IL registration number on the bow shown in the first photo. A neat place to visit - in good weather as it gets muddy if it has rained recently - only $10 admission. Kurt

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