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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    Ilhan: The one note on the drawing says it is at the scupper - the lower surface of the scupper will be at deck level so the metal tread plate has to be at the deck level or the scupper is blocked. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    The covers I have observed over the steering chains/rods was a simple cover flush with the deck - as the steering chains were below the decks surface. A simple wood slat assembly that can be lifted out for a wood boat and steel on a metal boats. My experience is strictly with tug and tow boats. On the drawing side view they probably would not be detailed so you would only have the plan (top) view. Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Chris: Midwest is still in business - but they stopped the model boat kits entirely. Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    Mike: Welcome to MSW. Check out the plans that Wooden Boat Magazine sells for full size boats of the type you are thinking of for your full size build. Scale down the measurements to a scale you might be comfortable with (my personal recommendation would be 1/12 scale) and where you can actually build the model just like the real boat. A big savings in materials and time. Again, Welcome to MSW. Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Dan: Welcome to MSW. Your business sounds interesting (and I just checked your website) and what you posted about it is OK within our guidelines. However, please read the rules about business postings outside of the dealers section. Again Welcome to MSW Kurt https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/guidelines/
  6. kurtvd19
    Use the white background paper for white letters. You have to match the color of the surface you are putting the decal down onto for the area surrounding the letters so the decal doesn't show. Remember to make sure the surface where the decal is going has to be glossy so the decal doesn't "silver" with trapped air between the decal and flat paint - apply the appropriate dull or matte coat over the decals once dry. Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    Badger Airbrush has their Modelflex Acrylic Marine paint- Shipyard Rust #16-429. You can get it from usaairbrushsupply.com and some other on-line sources. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    Using acrylics you should use a synthetic bristle. The brush shown looks like a natural (red sable?) bristle that tend to split and fray when used with acrylics. Natural bristles are best used with oil based paints. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    Wain: I just shipped your copy to you. thanks, Merry Christmas Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) now has all of the Lexington book and CD files formerly sold by Ships in Scale magazine. The CD with the pdf book is available for $39.95 on a CD disc or $49.95 on a Flash Drive plus $5.00 shipping from the NRG. We do not have it available in the NRG store yet for on-line ordering, but if you call the NRG office (585) 968-8111, Mary can take your card information or give you the PayPal payment information and we can ship you one. You can print out the book or use it on your computer. Take care, Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    Byrnes sells new insert plates for about $8. Lower your blade all the way. Take out the old insert and put the new one in. Move the fience over to cover part of the insert plate but make sure it is short of the blade's location. Clamp it in place and turn the saw on and raise the blade up through the aluminum plate. The slot will be cut by the blade and there will be a very close fit between the blade and the insert. The close clearance keeps the wood backed up on the bottom side and reduces tear out and combined with the wood piece on the miter gauge no tear out on the back side of the piece being cut. Always have the blade high enough so that the teeth are full exposed when cutting through the wood so the sawdust can escape (slitting blades have no off set and shallow tooth throats so saw dust can clog up causing overheating. The blade should be high enough that it is cutting in a downward manner not just towards the operator. Reduces the tendency for kickback. Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    Bigcreekdad: Show us a photo of the blade and the aluminum insert plate. If you have set up a zero clearance it should leave a much better edge than what you show. Also back up the miter gauge with a piece of straight hardwood that will back up the piece being cut for a cleaner cut w/o the tear out you are showing. The piece of wood can attach to the miter gauge with 2 faced tape. The photo of the shorter but higher backing piece is what you need for back side tear out prevention. The backing piece can be as long as you want to the left side - just make sure it's straight. For zero clearance make sure the blade and the plate are matched - each width of blade requires a matching zero clearance plate. Examples follow - first is too much clearance and next is correct clearance. This shows too much clearance This shows proper clearance - blade matched to the slot Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    I guess in the time frame of models made in the 1700's CA doesn't have much of a track record - but I have stuff glued with CA going back to 1968 - and it's as good as the day it was applied. Acetone is the solvent for CA - apply a bit let it soak in and give it a try - add more if needed. Have never experienced a joint that I wasn't able to get apart using Acetone. All this is personal experience and I don't hesitate to use it where needed. At this point as far as I am concerned the CA glue I use today has a longer life expectancy that I do (same with installing LED bulbs in the house). Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    The Fall issue (63.4) is now available to all digital subscribers. Check your email for the NRG's email with the instructions for setting up your password that was sent just a bit ago by our Constant Contact email service. All subscribers have to set a password to access this and future editions. It's just a few easy steps and fully explained. Also, FYI, there is a pdf button on the tool bar that gives subscribers access to a pdf version that can be printed if a copy of an article is desired. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    A good way to make your sander variable speed is to use different areas of the disc. It's spinning at lot faster at the outer edge and slower the closer you go to the shaft. Same RPM but much different feet per second. Kurt
  16. kurtvd19
    Somehow I left out a couple of words in that sentence - now edited to read as intended The digital is $40. The print is $50 and for an additional $15 you get both the print and digital - total $65. We have had a very good response with many people going for both and nobody mentioned the difference until now. Thanks for mentioning it. Take care, Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    If you haven't taken the time to check the free digital edition of the Journal do it today as the Winter issue will soon be available for viewing and it and future editions will require you to sign up for a membership/subscription. The digital issue is released prior to the print issue being mailed The Winter print issue is at the printer and if you have been putting off subscribing now is the time as waiting might mean you miss getting a copy of the Winter issue. Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    Rusty: In my original post - prior to editing I said "Use a calculator to divide by 2" - because that's what I do - but I deleted the bit about using a calculator even though I would always use one. Look at it as another tool we get use in building our models...🤩 Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Rusty: I found a very easy way to set the saw to make the half-lap joints. I have a combination height, depth & thickness gauge from a company called iGaging (igaging.com) that takes all the guess work out of setting the saw up. Use the gauge to measure the wood thickness - have the wood on a flat surface. Divide the thickness by 2. Using the iGage tool raise/lower the blade to match the divided thickness. You can make a test cut if you want, but unless you screwed up the math it's going to be right on. The tool is #35-0906 and it's priced anywhere from $16.95 to $22.00 - check carefully as some have free shipping. Rockler also lists the tool. It's got a 6" range of measurement. I have several of this company's products and they are all a good value for our use. I showed the use of this tool for making half lap joints during a round table on saw use and safety at the NRG Conference last month. Take care, Kurt
  20. kurtvd19
    Thanks for posting the photos Clare. I have been promised photos for here and the web site - I didn't have time to take any myself. Will post when they are received. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    My home made sliding table showing a positive stop to the right of the blade to make repeated same size cuts. Mine is also made from left over materials from the shop. Not as fancy as the Byrnes model but it gets the job done. For repeated same width cuts use an adjustable fixture to the left of the blade. Set it to the width wanted and after each cut move the fence so the sheet is against the fixture and make repeated cuts. This avoids the cut off piece being trapped between the blade and the fence and no push stick is required for the strip itself like it would be if cut to the right of the blade between the blade and fence. Fixture shown is also shop made from materials on hand. Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Moving the gauge black or angle back from the blade provides more room for pieces. Have to move the miter gauge a bit more each time but the offset is a bit safer operation with more space. Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    Welcome to MSW Ab. Ab is very modest - one of his paper models was on the cover of the NRG's Nautical Research Journal - Fall 2016 (61.3) and featured inside Kurt
  24. kurtvd19
    I got some AYC from Chuck and I am using it on a new model and I love the stuff. In my case the model is of a 1890 era canal boat primarily made of White Oak for which I am using Birch - dead ringer at 1/2" = 1' To White Oak. There is also a lot of Yellow Pine used on the boat and the AYC looks perfect in place of Yellow Pine on this model. I was very impressed with the ease of using the AYC as it cuts great on either my Preac or Bynes saws and finishes nicely. I bought a couple of sheets from Chuck and after actually using a bit of it ordered a bunch more - it will be stocked in my shop going forward. And as usual Chuck delivered it quickly and well packeaged. Kurt
  25. kurtvd19
    Sanding photo etch is tricky and probably not needed - I have never had to do it at least. Any sanding should be followed with a cleaning using a grease/oil cutting agent - acetone should work for most crud and lacquer thinner works too - and to get the sanding debris cleaned. I follow the solvent soak with a water rinse and then let the parts air dry. Don't skip the water rinse. If you are on well water or have real hard water you might be advised use distilled water. Next, do not touch the parts with your bare hands. Use tweezers or clean cotton gloves or exam gloves W/O powder! Primer should stick just great. I use an acrylic primer - Badger's Stynylrez - and it and the final color coats stick. This is what has worked for me. Kurt

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