kurtvd19

This is a great idea and I will be making up a very similar drying fixture.
Thanks for the idea.
Kurt

Chuck - next week.  That's a threat !!!
Just so busy I fell way behind.
Kurt

The bit below was originally posted last year. 
Kurt
 
 
Posted 10 October 2014 - 09:12 AM
I have never used ammonia to bend wood - it just isn't needed.  The bit below is a reprint of part of my article on building the Gunboat Philadelphia kit in Ships in Scale.  I doubt anybody who attended the NRG Conference I reference has ever used ammonia since hearing it.
Kurt
 
 
AVOID AMMONIA SOAKING
 
At the 2007 Nautical Research Guild Conference in Manitowoc, Wisconsin Alex C. Wiendenhoeft of the U S Department of Agriculture Forest Services Center for Wood Anatomy Research at the Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, Wisconsin explained how and why this damages the wood.  After this length of time I do not remember all of the details of his talk, but the point was well made and I don’t think that any of the modelers who listened to his talk that day has ever used Ammonia again.  The very non-scientific points I remember is that soaking in Ammonia breaks down and liquefies the Lignin in the cells making the wood more bendable.  When the Ammonia evaporates while the wood is clamped in place to the desired bend, the Lignin solidifies in a somewhat degrade state weakening the wood.
 
Ammonia also causes some woods to discolor when they dry out.  This might not be critical when the wood is to be painted but if it is being stained or clear finished the discoloration would not be acceptable. Concentrated Ammonia fumes are used commercially to darken some woods with oak being very susceptible to this process.
 
Mr. Wiendenhoeft explained how and why soaking in water or steaming wood made it bendable while not damaging the cellular structure of the wood.  Again, a non-scientific explanation is that there is a chemical bond with water in the cellular structure of wood that varies between 0% and 30%.  Soaking or steaming wood with water raises the percentage of water within the wood, called “free water”, above the amount bonded within the cells temporarily.  This makes the wood swell and more easily bent.  When the wood dries out and the bonded water stabilizes back to 30% or less, the wood retains the shape it was formed to by the clamping while it dried while retaining its strength. 
 
I have only mentioned drying the wood while clamped in place but the application of heat using some sort of plank bending tool or other heat source works the same way as clamping just at an accelerated rate.

The bit below was originally posted last year. 
Kurt
 
 
Posted 10 October 2014 - 09:12 AM
I have never used ammonia to bend wood - it just isn't needed.  The bit below is a reprint of part of my article on building the Gunboat Philadelphia kit in Ships in Scale.  I doubt anybody who attended the NRG Conference I reference has ever used ammonia since hearing it.
Kurt
 
 
AVOID AMMONIA SOAKING
 
At the 2007 Nautical Research Guild Conference in Manitowoc, Wisconsin Alex C. Wiendenhoeft of the U S Department of Agriculture Forest Services Center for Wood Anatomy Research at the Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, Wisconsin explained how and why this damages the wood.  After this length of time I do not remember all of the details of his talk, but the point was well made and I don’t think that any of the modelers who listened to his talk that day has ever used Ammonia again.  The very non-scientific points I remember is that soaking in Ammonia breaks down and liquefies the Lignin in the cells making the wood more bendable.  When the Ammonia evaporates while the wood is clamped in place to the desired bend, the Lignin solidifies in a somewhat degrade state weakening the wood.
 
Ammonia also causes some woods to discolor when they dry out.  This might not be critical when the wood is to be painted but if it is being stained or clear finished the discoloration would not be acceptable. Concentrated Ammonia fumes are used commercially to darken some woods with oak being very susceptible to this process.
 
Mr. Wiendenhoeft explained how and why soaking in water or steaming wood made it bendable while not damaging the cellular structure of the wood.  Again, a non-scientific explanation is that there is a chemical bond with water in the cellular structure of wood that varies between 0% and 30%.  Soaking or steaming wood with water raises the percentage of water within the wood, called “free water”, above the amount bonded within the cells temporarily.  This makes the wood swell and more easily bent.  When the wood dries out and the bonded water stabilizes back to 30% or less, the wood retains the shape it was formed to by the clamping while it dried while retaining its strength. 
 
I have only mentioned drying the wood while clamped in place but the application of heat using some sort of plank bending tool or other heat source works the same way as clamping just at an accelerated rate.

The Archer "rivets" are minute bits of C/A on decal film.  The strip of rivets is cut from the sheet and applied like any decal.  The film is very thin and a bit of clear coat blends the edges into the surface so the edges of the strip are completely invisible.
I have done the hand applied drops of C/A and the Archer rivet decals - will never do the hand application again.  They also have weld seam decals that work the same way.  Depending on the scale you are working in would determine the scale of the rivets or welds you applied.  Ho or the larger 1/48 scale decals might both work on the same model depending on the size of the rivet being replicated.
Kurt

The Archer "rivets" are minute bits of C/A on decal film.  The strip of rivets is cut from the sheet and applied like any decal.  The film is very thin and a bit of clear coat blends the edges into the surface so the edges of the strip are completely invisible.
I have done the hand applied drops of C/A and the Archer rivet decals - will never do the hand application again.  They also have weld seam decals that work the same way.  Depending on the scale you are working in would determine the scale of the rivets or welds you applied.  Ho or the larger 1/48 scale decals might both work on the same model depending on the size of the rivet being replicated.
Kurt

I usually leave the commentary on the Journal articles to others, but I have gone beyond my inspection of the proof copy of this issue.  I have been reading a couple of the articles off my computer screen because I couldn't wait for the printed copy.  This is unusual activity for me - I hate reading off the screen  (but not so much since I got the big 27" screen). 
 
I think the cover photo is fabulous as are the photos that accompany the article.  I think a lot of members will be very interested in the author's thoughts on the subject of updating dockyard-style modeling.
 
We should go to press Monday.
 
Kurt

I usually leave the commentary on the Journal articles to others, but I have gone beyond my inspection of the proof copy of this issue.  I have been reading a couple of the articles off my computer screen because I couldn't wait for the printed copy.  This is unusual activity for me - I hate reading off the screen  (but not so much since I got the big 27" screen). 
 
I think the cover photo is fabulous as are the photos that accompany the article.  I think a lot of members will be very interested in the author's thoughts on the subject of updating dockyard-style modeling.
 
We should go to press Monday.
 
Kurt

Phil:
I have switched over to scalpel handles and blades.. The metal handle is much preferred over the plastic handle but the guy who recommended I switch swears by the plastic handles.  Ebay has these for less than $10 each and you can also get the blades on ebay.  The blades shown are Swann-Morton #25a.  A #11 surgical blade is nothing like the X-Acto #11's.  The jeweler's tool category will be your best category to search on ebay.
 
Also, somebody said to use pliers to change the blades.  Heed that advice.  Do not try it with any fingers you want to use for several weeks.  No need for sterilized blades unless you try to change blades using your fingers.
 
Kurt

I too am a proponent of Birchwood Casey Brass Black.  Pickling in vinegar for an hour is OK I guess.  I use warm Sparex for that for 10 minutes or so and then a rinse in water.  If you do a rinse in acetone you only need to do so for a few seconds - longer isn't doing anything except wasting time.  Dip the clean brass part in the Brass Black for just a few seconds using tweezers - keep the part moving gently while immersed and then lift out with the tweezers, and let the solution drip back into the container.  Dip again and let it drip while watching for the degree of black you want.  Don't soak for extended times it will build up a crust that will flake off.  Rinse well in water and let dry - don't handle the part.  If it's not dark enough repeat the process in the Brass Black - no need to reclean or soak in etch if you don't handle with your bare fingers. 
I don't dilute the Brass Black (always did so with Blacken It but I will not use it for brass again) and can't advise one way or the other on doing so but even diluted I would not leave the part in it for any length of time.  Hold the part with tweezers and agitate the solution by moving the part gently in the solution and you will get good blackening.
Kurt

Phil:
I have switched over to scalpel handles and blades.. The metal handle is much preferred over the plastic handle but the guy who recommended I switch swears by the plastic handles.  Ebay has these for less than $10 each and you can also get the blades on ebay.  The blades shown are Swann-Morton #25a.  A #11 surgical blade is nothing like the X-Acto #11's.  The jeweler's tool category will be your best category to search on ebay.
 
Also, somebody said to use pliers to change the blades.  Heed that advice.  Do not try it with any fingers you want to use for several weeks.  No need for sterilized blades unless you try to change blades using your fingers.
 
Kurt

Phil:
I have switched over to scalpel handles and blades.. The metal handle is much preferred over the plastic handle but the guy who recommended I switch swears by the plastic handles.  Ebay has these for less than $10 each and you can also get the blades on ebay.  The blades shown are Swann-Morton #25a.  A #11 surgical blade is nothing like the X-Acto #11's.  The jeweler's tool category will be your best category to search on ebay.
 
Also, somebody said to use pliers to change the blades.  Heed that advice.  Do not try it with any fingers you want to use for several weeks.  No need for sterilized blades unless you try to change blades using your fingers.
 
Kurt

Phil:
I have switched over to scalpel handles and blades.. The metal handle is much preferred over the plastic handle but the guy who recommended I switch swears by the plastic handles.  Ebay has these for less than $10 each and you can also get the blades on ebay.  The blades shown are Swann-Morton #25a.  A #11 surgical blade is nothing like the X-Acto #11's.  The jeweler's tool category will be your best category to search on ebay.
 
Also, somebody said to use pliers to change the blades.  Heed that advice.  Do not try it with any fingers you want to use for several weeks.  No need for sterilized blades unless you try to change blades using your fingers.
 
Kurt

Phil:
I have switched over to scalpel handles and blades.. The metal handle is much preferred over the plastic handle but the guy who recommended I switch swears by the plastic handles.  Ebay has these for less than $10 each and you can also get the blades on ebay.  The blades shown are Swann-Morton #25a.  A #11 surgical blade is nothing like the X-Acto #11's.  The jeweler's tool category will be your best category to search on ebay.
 
Also, somebody said to use pliers to change the blades.  Heed that advice.  Do not try it with any fingers you want to use for several weeks.  No need for sterilized blades unless you try to change blades using your fingers.
 
Kurt

Paul:
Align it with the top edge as shown in the attached photo of the piece on the keel.  The other photo shows later construction - the lower surface is not important and the keel gets shaped to allow planks to lie flat over the keel.
Kurt

I have used a similar type - Optivisor.  The one  had been using for years just wasn't cutting it any more and at a trade show I tried their glass lenses  - this made a bid difference.  Check the Optivisor brand with the glass lenses.  They are a bit pricier but they are so much better - 8 hours w/o eyestrain.  The Optivisor plus good bright light makes a world of difference.  A big help for aging eyes.
Kurt

I have used a similar type - Optivisor.  The one  had been using for years just wasn't cutting it any more and at a trade show I tried their glass lenses  - this made a bid difference.  Check the Optivisor brand with the glass lenses.  They are a bit pricier but they are so much better - 8 hours w/o eyestrain.  The Optivisor plus good bright light makes a world of difference.  A big help for aging eyes.
Kurt

I have used a similar type - Optivisor.  The one  had been using for years just wasn't cutting it any more and at a trade show I tried their glass lenses  - this made a bid difference.  Check the Optivisor brand with the glass lenses.  They are a bit pricier but they are so much better - 8 hours w/o eyestrain.  The Optivisor plus good bright light makes a world of difference.  A big help for aging eyes.
Kurt

I have used a similar type - Optivisor.  The one  had been using for years just wasn't cutting it any more and at a trade show I tried their glass lenses  - this made a bid difference.  Check the Optivisor brand with the glass lenses.  They are a bit pricier but they are so much better - 8 hours w/o eyestrain.  The Optivisor plus good bright light makes a world of difference.  A big help for aging eyes.
Kurt

I have used a similar type - Optivisor.  The one  had been using for years just wasn't cutting it any more and at a trade show I tried their glass lenses  - this made a bid difference.  Check the Optivisor brand with the glass lenses.  They are a bit pricier but they are so much better - 8 hours w/o eyestrain.  The Optivisor plus good bright light makes a world of difference.  A big help for aging eyes.
Kurt

Steve:
I started to use Blacken It but had very poor results.  I got a bad batch of Blacken It - I have used it many times and while I use Birchwood Casey Brass Black for brass because I like it better than Blacken it for brass, the Birchwood Casey stuff doesn't work for pewter.  So, I ordered some Blacken It and when it arrived I used it on the guns - with nothing to show for the waster $, time and effort.  Must have been old or frozen at some point or something because it did not work - period.
As I had a magazine deadline to meet, the airbrush was used.  I like the results using the airbrush and have shown the guns at club meetings and guys asked what I used to blacken the guns.  They couldn't tell the difference - the Badger paints use very finely ground pigments and cover well with a very thin covering. 
Kurt

Richard:
I posted the link to Book Collector below.  I have used it for several years - only on the home computer (I use my phone as a phone) and highly recommend it.  Try the free trial version it handles up to 100 books for free - I think for an unlimited time.  When you decide to buy it to handle your entire library (who has less than 100 books?!) there is no problem with updating - it is all seamless.
A feature I really like is the ability to show the cover of the book in your listings.  When you enter the ISBN number for the book the download if the book information is automatic and then you can add all your personal info about it - autographed, where you purchased it, the amount you paid and the software adds currenet value, the photo of the cover and the publisher and author info.  If the cover isn't available you can scan it and enter it and if you click a single box the cover scan will be uploaded to the cloud and the next person entering that book into their data gets your photo downloaded.
 
http://www.collectorz.com/book/
 
Kurt

Floquil paints have been discontinued by Testor's - the owner of Floquil.  There may be some floating around on eBay or a hobby shop shelf but I seriously doubt that Engine Black would be one of the colors still not gobbled up.  I know one modeler who's bought 27 or so bottles of a specific Floquil clear finish - off eBay.
The attached photo is the 12 pound gun painted with Badger Modelflex Marine Color Wrought Iron Black (#16-413) an acrylic paint.  It is the same color as Badger's Dirty Engine Black  (#16-05).  This is a somewhat weathered Engine and/or Hull Black which are both dead flat black and look way too stark on guns.
Kurt
 

Floquil paints have been discontinued by Testor's - the owner of Floquil.  There may be some floating around on eBay or a hobby shop shelf but I seriously doubt that Engine Black would be one of the colors still not gobbled up.  I know one modeler who's bought 27 or so bottles of a specific Floquil clear finish - off eBay.
The attached photo is the 12 pound gun painted with Badger Modelflex Marine Color Wrought Iron Black (#16-413) an acrylic paint.  It is the same color as Badger's Dirty Engine Black  (#16-05).  This is a somewhat weathered Engine and/or Hull Black which are both dead flat black and look way too stark on guns.
Kurt
 

Floquil paints have been discontinued by Testor's - the owner of Floquil.  There may be some floating around on eBay or a hobby shop shelf but I seriously doubt that Engine Black would be one of the colors still not gobbled up.  I know one modeler who's bought 27 or so bottles of a specific Floquil clear finish - off eBay.
The attached photo is the 12 pound gun painted with Badger Modelflex Marine Color Wrought Iron Black (#16-413) an acrylic paint.  It is the same color as Badger's Dirty Engine Black  (#16-05).  This is a somewhat weathered Engine and/or Hull Black which are both dead flat black and look way too stark on guns.
Kurt