kurtvd19

Ahoy:
I have told many of my fellow club members about the Book Collector program I use to keep track of my library on my desktop.  They are having a sale that makes it very affordable.  I have no vested interest and I will not get a cent or anything if you sign up - I just wanted to let you know that if you had ever heard and thought about this program at all now would be a good time to get it.  A free download that lets you manage up to 100 books is also available and I used it to see if I liked it before buying the program several years ago.

I have the Book Collector pro version but I think the std will work for many people.  I am able to track the original purchase price of the book, if it's autographed, all the data on it - pages, volume, etc.  I purchased this originally when Mary threatened me with haunting me forever if I died w/o leaving her a list of the books and their worth if she needed to dispose of the collection.  It has saved me from purchasing additional copies of books I already had...something I know many of us have done.

Just wanted to let you know about the bargain.  The link to the web site is http://www.collectorz.com/book/
 
The link to the sale is https://www.collectorz.com/shop/sale.php?book50pro=1&inf_contact_key=1d5eb42f913e91f755c3a625085ea212f5cf974ea323afd529e10d36025a9ea8
 
My apologies if this is posted to the wrong section but it's offered for information and I have no connection except as a very pleased user.
Kurt
 

Ahoy:
I have told many of my fellow club members about the Book Collector program I use to keep track of my library on my desktop.  They are having a sale that makes it very affordable.  I have no vested interest and I will not get a cent or anything if you sign up - I just wanted to let you know that if you had ever heard and thought about this program at all now would be a good time to get it.  A free download that lets you manage up to 100 books is also available and I used it to see if I liked it before buying the program several years ago.

I have the Book Collector pro version but I think the std will work for many people.  I am able to track the original purchase price of the book, if it's autographed, all the data on it - pages, volume, etc.  I purchased this originally when Mary threatened me with haunting me forever if I died w/o leaving her a list of the books and their worth if she needed to dispose of the collection.  It has saved me from purchasing additional copies of books I already had...something I know many of us have done.

Just wanted to let you know about the bargain.  The link to the web site is http://www.collectorz.com/book/
 
The link to the sale is https://www.collectorz.com/shop/sale.php?book50pro=1&inf_contact_key=1d5eb42f913e91f755c3a625085ea212f5cf974ea323afd529e10d36025a9ea8
 
My apologies if this is posted to the wrong section but it's offered for information and I have no connection except as a very pleased user.
Kurt
 

Sal:
Check the drawing below.  I believe the piece you are referring to is the stock with the keep pin removed and the stock moved to the left in the photo with the stock them dropping into place alongside the shank of the anchor with the ball at the bent end of the stock keeping the stock from passing through the eye of the shank.
 
 

David:
That's exactly what I use for my airbrushing.  I originally got it for rigging - the up and down adjustability made it great for raising when I wanted to work on the deadeyes - with the chair lowered, or lowering the table and raising the chair when working on the tops.  There are medical supply businesses that rent and sell this type of equipment for in home use and they routinely dispose of stuff all the time.  When you get back home you can check this out.  I will keep my eyes open for one. 
Kurt

Bob:
The build in SiS is mine and Chuck and I have been sharing comments privately.  I decided to duplicate the replica boat at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum and have applied a finish to the exterior and interior as the boat at the Museum has.  Chuck thought I was nuts to "weather" a boat that lasted just a few months before being sunk until I explained my reasoning.  He may be right about being nuts - I do build model boats....
Kurt

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Don:
Check out airbrushing with acrylic paints.  No odor, no hazard, soap and water clean up.  Even over-spray isn't an issue as acrylics are dry before the "dust" can hit the floor.  Even a long painting session doesn't make measurable dust and a quick sweep and it's gone, but use a spray booth of any sort with a filter on the exhaust and that's not even needed.  And a spray booth can be self made w/o the worry of an explosion proof motor as required with solvent based paints.  Simple furnace filter is adequate filter at the back side.
Kurt

Marc:
Be careful with Dullcoat.  One coat does the job.  Multiple coats don't make things duller - they actually build up making the surface smooth - and shiny.  Of course, if you use a very thin coat via the airbrush, another coat might be OK, but if you use the stuff from a rattle can stop at one coat.
Kurt

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Sorry not my parts so I can't share any secrets about them (as I didn't make them) except to say that they were done in RTV molds and are destined to be pieces in a kit.  A friend shared the photo of the initial run of parts. 
However, I can say with certainty that this quality of parts is able to be done in pewter and RTV molds as I have others on hand cast by another fiend that are just as good. 
Kurt

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Andy:
I would call this a Semi-Scratch build with all the changes and additions you are making.  Heck. you could call it IRVING and it would still be a great job.
Kurt

Scott:
This tool or one like it makes working with photo etch so much easier and precise that I wouldn't work without it.
Kurt

Andy:
I envy you working in the larger scale. 
I have attached a photo of a self unloader boom that was part of a builders model of a gypsum carrier that I repaired.  Looking behind the remounted boom you might note the absence of the superstructure.  It, the boom and all sorts of stuff was in need of repair when the superstructure came loose during shipping of the model from S. America to Chicago.  The model was in approximately 1/100 scale and some of the photo etched railings were almost tied in knots from bouncing around in the case - all were replaced as it's impossible to straighten small photo etched rails.
The boat operates on the Great Lakes and I was able to work from photos of the full size boat as well as the other twin model that made it unharmed from S. America to Europe.
The parts came loose because the "professional" model shop painted the Plexiglass deck and then glued to superstructure down to the painted deck and the paint didn't hold.  The Plexiglass wasn't even sanded to make a good surface for the paint - but I didn't contract to fix anything that wasn't broken.
Wish I had taken a photo of the model before I started the repairs.
Kurt

Andy:
I envy you working in the larger scale. 
I have attached a photo of a self unloader boom that was part of a builders model of a gypsum carrier that I repaired.  Looking behind the remounted boom you might note the absence of the superstructure.  It, the boom and all sorts of stuff was in need of repair when the superstructure came loose during shipping of the model from S. America to Chicago.  The model was in approximately 1/100 scale and some of the photo etched railings were almost tied in knots from bouncing around in the case - all were replaced as it's impossible to straighten small photo etched rails.
The boat operates on the Great Lakes and I was able to work from photos of the full size boat as well as the other twin model that made it unharmed from S. America to Europe.
The parts came loose because the "professional" model shop painted the Plexiglass deck and then glued to superstructure down to the painted deck and the paint didn't hold.  The Plexiglass wasn't even sanded to make a good surface for the paint - but I didn't contract to fix anything that wasn't broken.
Wish I had taken a photo of the model before I started the repairs.
Kurt

Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed.  The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit.  The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic.  Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do.  Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins.  Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt

Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed.  The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit.  The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic.  Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do.  Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins.  Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt

Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed.  The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit.  The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic.  Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do.  Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins.  Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt

Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed.  The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit.  The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic.  Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do.  Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins.  Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt

Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed.  The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit.  The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic.  Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do.  Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins.  Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt

Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed.  The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit.  The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic.  Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do.  Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins.  Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt

I have a garage sale drafting table that I use to hold plans near my main modeling bench.  It's easy to move out of the way or closer to the bench.  For small sized plans I use it as shown in the upper right photo.  For larger plans I attach the plan sheet(s) to a piece of foam core illustration board and then Set the foam core onto the small ledge on the bottom of the drafting table and use a spring clamp to hold it in place as shown in the lower.  I can move it closer to the bench as shown in the upper left photo.  By putting the plans on foam core boards I can have multiple sets of plans able to be used as I usually have at least two projects going at a time.
There are also small tables meant for lap top computers that could be adapted in a similar manner using the foam core pieces.
Kurt
 
PS:The hand on the table is a Halloween hand that will become part of a "Don't touch the models" plaque with a butcher's cleaver and cutting board for our next model show.