kurtvd19
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from BRiddoch in Gunboat PHILADELPHIA 1776 by Chuck Seiler - Scale 1:48 - from Model Shipways plans
Bob:
The build in SiS is mine and Chuck and I have been sharing comments privately. I decided to duplicate the replica boat at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum and have applied a finish to the exterior and interior as the boat at the Museum has. Chuck thought I was nuts to "weather" a boat that lasted just a few months before being sunk until I explained my reasoning. He may be right about being nuts - I do build model boats....
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from xken in casting metal parts including cannon
Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from WackoWolf in what is the ideal modelling table?
Don:
Check out airbrushing with acrylic paints. No odor, no hazard, soap and water clean up. Even over-spray isn't an issue as acrylics are dry before the "dust" can hit the floor. Even a long painting session doesn't make measurable dust and a quick sweep and it's gone, but use a spray booth of any sort with a filter on the exhaust and that's not even needed. And a spray booth can be self made w/o the worry of an explosion proof motor as required with solvent based paints. Simple furnace filter is adequate filter at the back side.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in The First Royal Dutch Yacht Mary by flying_dutchman2 - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1646
Marc:
Be careful with Dullcoat. One coat does the job. Multiple coats don't make things duller - they actually build up making the surface smooth - and shiny. Of course, if you use a very thin coat via the airbrush, another coat might be OK, but if you use the stuff from a rattle can stop at one coat.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in casting metal parts including cannon
Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from catopower in casting metal parts including cannon
Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from WackoWolf in casting metal parts including cannon
Sorry not my parts so I can't share any secrets about them (as I didn't make them) except to say that they were done in RTV molds and are destined to be pieces in a kit. A friend shared the photo of the initial run of parts.
However, I can say with certainty that this quality of parts is able to be done in pewter and RTV molds as I have others on hand cast by another fiend that are just as good.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from druxey in casting metal parts including cannon
Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from janos in casting metal parts including cannon
Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from WackoWolf in casting metal parts including cannon
Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from realworkingsailor in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Andy:
I would call this a Semi-Scratch build with all the changes and additions you are making. Heck. you could call it IRVING and it would still be a great job.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from JPZ66 in Photo etch bending tool ?
Scott:
This tool or one like it makes working with photo etch so much easier and precise that I wouldn't work without it.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from dafi in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Andy:
I envy you working in the larger scale.
I have attached a photo of a self unloader boom that was part of a builders model of a gypsum carrier that I repaired. Looking behind the remounted boom you might note the absence of the superstructure. It, the boom and all sorts of stuff was in need of repair when the superstructure came loose during shipping of the model from S. America to Chicago. The model was in approximately 1/100 scale and some of the photo etched railings were almost tied in knots from bouncing around in the case - all were replaced as it's impossible to straighten small photo etched rails.
The boat operates on the Great Lakes and I was able to work from photos of the full size boat as well as the other twin model that made it unharmed from S. America to Europe.
The parts came loose because the "professional" model shop painted the Plexiglass deck and then glued to superstructure down to the painted deck and the paint didn't hold. The Plexiglass wasn't even sanded to make a good surface for the paint - but I didn't contract to fix anything that wasn't broken.
Wish I had taken a photo of the model before I started the repairs.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from realworkingsailor in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Andy:
I envy you working in the larger scale.
I have attached a photo of a self unloader boom that was part of a builders model of a gypsum carrier that I repaired. Looking behind the remounted boom you might note the absence of the superstructure. It, the boom and all sorts of stuff was in need of repair when the superstructure came loose during shipping of the model from S. America to Chicago. The model was in approximately 1/100 scale and some of the photo etched railings were almost tied in knots from bouncing around in the case - all were replaced as it's impossible to straighten small photo etched rails.
The boat operates on the Great Lakes and I was able to work from photos of the full size boat as well as the other twin model that made it unharmed from S. America to Europe.
The parts came loose because the "professional" model shop painted the Plexiglass deck and then glued to superstructure down to the painted deck and the paint didn't hold. The Plexiglass wasn't even sanded to make a good surface for the paint - but I didn't contract to fix anything that wasn't broken.
Wish I had taken a photo of the model before I started the repairs.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from mtaylor in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed. The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit. The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic. Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do. Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins. Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from Piet in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed. The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit. The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic. Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do. Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins. Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from augie in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed. The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit. The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic. Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do. Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins. Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed. The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit. The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic. Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do. Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins. Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from realworkingsailor in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed. The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit. The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic. Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do. Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins. Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from lambsbk in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Tom:
The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed. The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit. The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic. Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do. Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins. Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from riverboat in Where Do You Keep Your Working Plans
I have a garage sale drafting table that I use to hold plans near my main modeling bench. It's easy to move out of the way or closer to the bench. For small sized plans I use it as shown in the upper right photo. For larger plans I attach the plan sheet(s) to a piece of foam core illustration board and then Set the foam core onto the small ledge on the bottom of the drafting table and use a spring clamp to hold it in place as shown in the lower. I can move it closer to the bench as shown in the upper left photo. By putting the plans on foam core boards I can have multiple sets of plans able to be used as I usually have at least two projects going at a time.
There are also small tables meant for lap top computers that could be adapted in a similar manner using the foam core pieces.
Kurt
PS:The hand on the table is a Halloween hand that will become part of a "Don't touch the models" plaque with a butcher's cleaver and cutting board for our next model show.
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from trippwj in Nautical research Guild National Conference - Charleston, SC October 16-20, 2013
Still time to sign up for the conference. The Wednesday tour is filled but room for others at everything else. The model show looks good this year with 20+ models on exhibit.
Kurt
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from SkerryAmp in Re: airbrush moisture trap
Richard:
You most certainly need a moisture trap with any air brush set up. However, you might have one built into the air pressure regulator already. If the regulator has a clear plastic bottom with a knurled knob or other type of drain cock to open the drain you have a moisture trap. If your regulator is not so equipped and in-line moisture trap can be placed in-line into the air hose. They usually just require you to cut the hose and insert the moisture trap being careful to properly orient the moisture trap with the air flow - there should be an arrow pointing the direction of the air flow or "in" and "out" molded into the ends of the trap.
Keep an eye on the moisture trap - in-line or part of the regulator - as accumulated moisture needs to be drained out. The regulator trap is emptied by opening the bottom drain cock. The in-line unit is detached from the hose and emptied.
Failure to have a moisture trap will cause problems eventually as compressing air always results in moisture being produced inside the compressor system and when it gets into the airflow while you are spraying paint you will not be happy even using acrylics.
If you need to buy an in-line trap most places that sell air brushes also sell the in-line traps. All of the manufacturers sell them so they are readily available.
Kurt
Full disclosure - I am a consultant to Badger Air Brush Co.
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from WackoWolf in Re: airbrush moisture trap
Richard:
You most certainly need a moisture trap with any air brush set up. However, you might have one built into the air pressure regulator already. If the regulator has a clear plastic bottom with a knurled knob or other type of drain cock to open the drain you have a moisture trap. If your regulator is not so equipped and in-line moisture trap can be placed in-line into the air hose. They usually just require you to cut the hose and insert the moisture trap being careful to properly orient the moisture trap with the air flow - there should be an arrow pointing the direction of the air flow or "in" and "out" molded into the ends of the trap.
Keep an eye on the moisture trap - in-line or part of the regulator - as accumulated moisture needs to be drained out. The regulator trap is emptied by opening the bottom drain cock. The in-line unit is detached from the hose and emptied.
Failure to have a moisture trap will cause problems eventually as compressing air always results in moisture being produced inside the compressor system and when it gets into the airflow while you are spraying paint you will not be happy even using acrylics.
If you need to buy an in-line trap most places that sell air brushes also sell the in-line traps. All of the manufacturers sell them so they are readily available.
Kurt
Full disclosure - I am a consultant to Badger Air Brush Co.
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kurtvd19 got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Re: airbrush moisture trap
Richard:
You most certainly need a moisture trap with any air brush set up. However, you might have one built into the air pressure regulator already. If the regulator has a clear plastic bottom with a knurled knob or other type of drain cock to open the drain you have a moisture trap. If your regulator is not so equipped and in-line moisture trap can be placed in-line into the air hose. They usually just require you to cut the hose and insert the moisture trap being careful to properly orient the moisture trap with the air flow - there should be an arrow pointing the direction of the air flow or "in" and "out" molded into the ends of the trap.
Keep an eye on the moisture trap - in-line or part of the regulator - as accumulated moisture needs to be drained out. The regulator trap is emptied by opening the bottom drain cock. The in-line unit is detached from the hose and emptied.
Failure to have a moisture trap will cause problems eventually as compressing air always results in moisture being produced inside the compressor system and when it gets into the airflow while you are spraying paint you will not be happy even using acrylics.
If you need to buy an in-line trap most places that sell air brushes also sell the in-line traps. All of the manufacturers sell them so they are readily available.
Kurt
Full disclosure - I am a consultant to Badger Air Brush Co.
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