Gaetan Bordeleau

I asked myself the same question and I also thought that the radius was different. When I was looking beams from the end on the plan, they had different length. Later I understood that a taller length implies a taller height. All the beams I did have the same radius on the french ship. May be this drawing can help.

size 90 .007 inch, I guess that ideally at 1/64 I would use size 110 or 120 so that all the ropes can be done with the same thread. In the picture middle one: fil de lin a dentelle Bouc FFR art 9051 110/2 écru 300meters around 40 euros I guess it would be hard to find better. ref second picture I bought that from Theo. I remember having few exchange by windows mail. He ordered a cone for exactly what I needed http://www.theobrejaart.nl/frame.html With the rope machine I use and the good counterweight very nice and stable ropes are obtained

Thank you Mark and best wishes to you too. The first picture was the presentation page for the photographic contest. The 4 next pictures will be the titles pages for this year presentation with no judges, just peoples who like the subject. Gaetan

This is going to be a nice build. good luck

Here is a presentation sheet for the 74 cannons. Unfortunately, 1 judge did not like my style, so I will try another type of event this year by showing some models. With this I am preparing a conference with these main lines in French: 1 Le Modèle d’arsenal (et ses origines) 2 Quelques Réalisations 3 Étude d’un modèle d’instruction navale (Vaisseau de 74 canons) I think Navy Board model are the good words and for Naval Instruction I mean by example in let’s say 1750 naval officer who were going to school to learn to build ships were learning with models at large scale. Also I like Greg idea about mentoring, and I will probably test if some participant would be interested to learn.

grsjack I think I get what you are trying to explain that there is not thousands of known cases. In the link provide in English by Michael, if you click on wood dust can cause respiratory or skin awereness, go to ebony Africa, click on it: One study reports of respiratory sensitization to a luthier who made musical instruments in Ebony. After one year of exposure, he had rhinitis and asthma attacks that appeared when he was at work. The symptoms disappeared and reappeared during the holidays when they return to work. Provocation tests with dust ebony showed immediate positive responses and delayed until 20 hours after the test. Skin tests gave negative answers.

For many years I questioned myself about wood allergies. The main reason being that there was no serious report was done about this subject. Some things were written and probably all personal impressions. It is the first time that I see a credible report talking about the danger of chemicals in certain woods. The important thing for me is to know what I do with this information. By example, oak and beech do not have a desirable wood grain, I used these woods 1 time in the past, now I will place these woods on the list of woods not to use. Another example, I liked very much the look and the touch of ebony. Druxey knew for a certain time that ebony can be dangerous. Having never read anything about it, I did not know what to do with this information. About ebony dust, I noticed 2 things, this is the finest particle I have ever seen and it is not nice to snuff his nose with a kleenex and see how black it is. On my present build, I stopped using ebony without really knowing why. Now I know that there is Macassar quinone in macassar ebony. I have no idea what it is, but the main thing is that I will not be using ebony anymore and since then I learned how to use black dye, the color is there not the touch but it is acceptable. One last example, there is dimethoxy-p-benzoquinone in maple sugar and African mahogany. I used these woods few times. Again I do not know what this product is and in a way I do not care if a doctor did a study about this product but again I will put these woods in the list of the woods not to be used.

The origin of this document is for the protection of health workers issued by the government. Is it 100% true? I do not know, but the idea is not to wait until there are human studies completed with 10,000 peoples, I think that we do not need that much to begin to manage the risk.

Here is Mark model in 150 years from now and I absolutely like this visual form

http://www.acgih.org/SiteSearch/Results.cfm?CFID=1472109&CFTOKEN=15225595 LInk to American association in English: ACGIH wood dust beech and oak, when I first read this few mounths ago, I was very much surprise to learn this. Last autumn, in an exposition, I was talking to students making violin and they also knew about oak. I do not use oak and beech and I surely will not be using these woods any more. I do not know , but I guess that they observed workerrs in oak dust environment for years who died from cancer and were able to establish links. I guess it would be interesting to copy a table from an English source as the one I saw in the french source. I guess that it wouls some way possible to copy the tables and mentioning the provenance. I think that these are ther best sources available who could demistify which woods are dangerous and which one are not so dangerous. Mark, you can open in the appropriate section.

THE MOST DANGEROUS WOOD DUST We read a lot of things concerning wood toxicity. In Quebec province, one organism protects the workers. http://www.reptox.csst.qc.ca/documents/plusencore/poussieresbois/htm/PoussieresBoisCancer.htm This link shows some tables about wood toxicity. In fact we should talk about wood dust which is dangerous. Here are some extractions of the most dangerous wood dust: Oak and beech; confirm cancer on human Birch, mahogany, teak, walnut, suspect cancer on human Certain woods contains chemical products causing allergy. Here are some extractions Macassar quinone in macassar ebony dimethoxy-p-benzoquinone in maple sugar, African mohagany

Periodically on this forum, the subject of photography comes by in different section of the forum. To make a contest is probably not the good alignment as said Chuck. Photography does not look like to be a subject that many people like, after all this forum is not intended for the photographs, it is nevertheless a subject that I like and I wish I can take better picture. To try to explain the triangular fundamentals (picture 1) is not something we can do in 1 paragraph. To make formation is probably not either the good method (picture 2) so what is left? Picture, picture, picture. The best I can thing for now would be a section like ‘’ Taking better pictures’’. The only condition would be to add a little explanation showing how the picture was taken and also 3 basic information: by example, opening (F22), exposition (.7 second) and ISO (400). You can find these informations when you look at a picture and click on the right button of the mouse, click propriety and details. Here are some pictures by example (picture 3) F 5.6, ¼ sec, ISO 400 This picture was taken with a window behind me, but not a window with direct sunshine to avoid overexposing. Turning around the model, I liked the angle. While doing the set up, I realised I could have a reflection of my face in the glass, then I took the picture. So, you see, light with a little bit of luck and you get a picture. Another experiment where I tried to photograph with the colors as close as possible (picture 4) by playing with the standard lighting I have at home. Few days later, I wanted to see if I was able to take this picture again. I took around 100 pictures playing with light and adjustment but could not get it. White balance was the key issue. So I took the same picture with different white balance adjustment and understood that my working place is mainly equip with neon and that there are 3 white balance adjustment for neon. For those who remember the French 74 cannons (picture 5); how do you think this model would be classified in a photo competition? When we participate we always think that we are better that we really are. Today is a Lucky day, I received this morning 2 appreciations from a photo contest, here are my impressions. To be a judge is in a great part a matter of personal taste. I was noted with positive and negative points so I think I can also I have positive and negative points about it. On the positive side, I sent few pictures during construction and some pictures with the model completed. That was a big mistake, both judges noted model incomplete. I was very satisfied with the choice of the wood colors. One judge thought it had realism and the other judge thought that the biggest issue was the choice of wood. For historic accuracy, 1 judge gave all the points, that is positive, but on the negative side, the other one just gave 60%. If there is one kind of ship I know, this is the French 74 cannons by Jean Boudriot and I have a good understanding of this period. Apparently, us human always have a tendency to think that we are better than what we really are; and here you have the perfect example; this simple model was noted ‘’average’’. If I do not understand anything about French ship maybe I should go for something easier!

Main moldings are installed except for the gallery. Like this we can have an idea of the volume. I like the idea to alternaternate between work inside and outside the model

Thank you for your nice words. Building time comparisons: previously built a 74 gun ship at 1/48 and 1/24. It took the same time to build each one, so size is just a matter of space. To have some space you must take some time to think where to store your tools and you need many drawers. By example,recently I regrouped the little tools. in a home made old school chest with 16 drawers, For this matter square feet is important not volume, meaning many 1 inch high drawers. Just for this chest, if you put all the drawers together, you get 41 square feet. Before that, all these little tools were stored in many different places. I do not do this professionnally, I just do it because I like it.

Thank you Jacob, when I began my first model ship which was from plastic, I had no tools. I was working on the kitchen table. On the last 2 pictures, we can see the effect with or without moldings. Building sequences is exactly as for a house: framing, cover the frames with planks, moldings and finishing.

Such a file did exist in MSW1.0. With 2 known sizes, you can predict other diameters following a parabola curve.

For comparison on French ships in the 1700 tar was black and in 1780 they used a better quality one from Stockholm and it was reddish brown. 99% of the lines were tarred as well for standing and running rigging, and the blocks were not clog. It was not black pitch as we have today.

The use of the original drawings are necessary to understand the scluptures composition because there are too many differences with the other provided drawings. Actually, I am working on the upper moldings and trying to evaluate their composition.

Aging solution with asphalt Beeswax Slows drying time, soften the color and more transparent. Mixing it with the bitumen allows beewax molecules to bind and make the asphalt more neutral paraffin:help beewax or could be white wax candle asphalt: Was used by the egyptiens for embalming Oil suluble pine resin: Gives plastic properties and can form a varnish if mixed with alcool natural soap: probably for the oils in the soap turpentine: Fluidity and solubility of the mix siccative: shorter drying time, max 10% of total mix. Alex is right everything is on Internet

Thank you very much Alex to show us your receipe. Since the first time that I saw on a forum the use of asphalt by russians I tried it sometimes and I like the aging effect. I do not understand why you use wood rosin which is probably something like pine gum. The only thing I know about it is that it is water resistant. Gaetan

Useless I do not think! 2 methods -p2and p3 method for picture 1 p4 and p5 for another kind

Thank you Sherry, and the work continues!

something like this?

May just plank one side for cannon's and leave the other side alone. Reason is that I just don't want to cover all of the detail up :mellow: Gary Gary I like your reason. It is always sad to do some joinery and cover it. To leave some unfinihed parts is sometimes the only way to show how it is built.

Glued evrything except the 2 back ramps for further easy access Planking over side structures Box framing each side dry fitting At this stage dry fitting is essemtial because I could not arrive and fix parts at the first throw; I have to think calmly and slowly progress with each part to his shape and position in relation with the rest. Slow process but interesting!