G.L.

Very nice planking job, Cyclops. You are building just the kind of model that I like. I sign in to follow.

Your ropework is outstanding!

after some time I have completed the laying of all the frames:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Completion of the Module #4: Galley and Smoke house + Dinghies: 
 

 
The dinghies were printed by a friend who is an expert with Resin 3D printers. I tried to print them with my PLA printer and the results were mediocre at best. With the resin printing, they came out really nice and smooth. Printing these dinghies required tilting the design, to allow for a smooth result as shown on the picture below:  
 

 

 
All the benches and floors are from the BENSWORX kit and have been covered with some 1/32 inch planking. The tillers are simply a tooth pick....
 

 
More pictures of the finished module: 
 

 
The davits again, gave a very poor result on the PLA 3D printer. I decided to just keep the bases, drill them and use a brass rod of 1.5 mm to build the upper part of the davits. They look a hundred times better.... The rope drums are the drums from the kit, but simply reduced at 75% during the printing process. These smaller units are more in line with the davits.
 

 

 

 

 
The dinghies are still missing the oars, being painted....
 

 

 
Notice on the above picture the two ladders (can we call these stairs?) going from the forecastle deck to the lower deck. Ladders are from the kit but the piece of upper deck was described in a previous post and is not part of the kit. Trying to get as much resemblance to Snowberry as possible...
 

 

 
A couple of overall views of the beast: 
 

 

 
With the deck in place, it is now really looking like a Corvette: 
 

 

 
Next will be Module #5, the engine room. The next module is a significant amount of work due to the numerous parts going on top of the engine room. I will be describing it in a little while.
 
Yves
 
 
 
 
 
 

Very nice planking job, Cyclops. You are building just the kind of model that I like. I sign in to follow.

Hull planking on Boat 15 finally finishes. Next job would be fitting the rubbing strakes and capping to the gunwale. Also some filling and trimming job is needed on the stempost and breasthook(shape needs to be corrected).
     Some water decals for the boat plaques arrived today. The original photo eched parts supplied in the Artesania Latina kit is placed bellow it for comparison. One could easily notice that the AL plaques are all hopelessly overscaled.

Certainly well past time for an update! I have been busy during the nice weather contemplating projects that needed done around the house. I managed to do a lot of of contemplation and possibly succeeded in accomplishing about 10% of them Perhaps a blessing or curse being retired and having no Admiral to motivate me. In addition, one of my joys in life was travel and I had not been away since March 7, 2020 when I escaped from Auckland via Sydney, San Francisco and Chicago, I was sure I was a dead man but did survive. So I recently threw caution to the winds and went over to Hawaii for a couple weeks before I went mad. My late wife and I went there often and I needed some salt water on my skin. I hope I am not violating any rules but want to post this song that always brings me joy reminding me of my wife after I travel to Hawaii. I always get a bit contemplative but comforted after a trip there after my wife had passed.
 
 Enough digressing, I spent a fair amount of time rigging as much as possible before I install the mast, boom etc.  as it seemed easier than doing it after installing the bits, really no photos were taken, perhaps after installation.
 
I installed the bowsprit and completed the gammons, a couple of photos. I simulated bolts with plastic rod I tried to make six sided. I installed the trim board after hand painting it. I actually did them in two parts, not sure that was the best option and  perhaps bending them to fit would have been better?
 
I next turned my attention to the boat name at the bow and and stern. I knew hand painting was not an option and I was not happy with the printed sheet provided with the kit. I bought some decal sheets for use in my inkjet printer and am fairly happy with the result. The bow was easy but stern not so much. I had neither the program or more probably the paucity of expertise to create the curved lettering for the stern so I pinched a photo from another member here (thank you Ahb26!) and used that to make the decal. It turned out that making and applying the decals was a fairly complicated process and rather than elaborate on the procedure if there is any interest I will expand on the details. 
 
Finally, I sealed the deck with a matte finish and any other raw wood also. 

Not a detailed update this weekend as I've still not had much time on my hands.  I've made the infill piece between the first frame and the apron which completes the whole keelson assembly.
 
I don't know how everyone else gets the shapes for pieces like this but I've found masking tape to be a winner.  I just put it in place and then use a pencil to get the outside shape.  Then simply cut it and sand it to the shape until it fits.
 
I'm moving onto the hawse timbers next but I need to get my head around how they all fit together first.  I'll take the plans to work so I can be ready for next weekend and hopefully make some serious sawdust  
 
Mark
 

ja wadde (Flemish) easily translated as WOW
 
 
Small update (as always from October on, most of my hobby time will go to military modeling)
All sails are tied to the yards.

Bought a book as preparation for a next project.

To discover this

I think I will (have to) do this step all over again 😟
dont now yet 🤔

 

I have been a little under the weather these last few days and have been unable to work on my favorite project. However, I had some pictures of my progress after following Valeriy's advise about the Titebond.
 

 
This  shows the beginning of the filling of the bow and stern sections
 

 
And here I added a vertical reinforcement to each frame just in case.
 

 
I have received the material (cherry) to make the planking strakes and hope to get started next Monday.
 
I had a lot of trouble gluing the paper to the wood. I used Loctite and a 3M sprays and they dried up in a couple of days. My last attempt was made with Elmer's contact cement and this seem to be holding up OK.
I would like to hear you opinions and preferences for this work of permanently gluing paper to wood.
 
I also want to welcome my new friend, Ton Kittichart from Thailand, who is planning to build Amapá's Thai cruiser the Suriya Monthon. 

Thank you all for your appreciation of my work!
I will try to match them.  
 

To say this gun tub deserves a good home is an understatement. One of the most troublesome parts of this project has been a hull that meets the replication requirements and is worthy of such a fine sub system as the gun tub. If one recalls the hulls were reworked products of United Boat Works of Bellingham Washington. As such hull drawings were minimal so we had to replicate via what we had including photos. Patriots Point photos have been the most beneficial. As we now are preparing to ready the hull for all the topsides detail such as the helm build out, the stern gun platform, all the topsides armor shielding and the canopy metal work we had to get one last hull detail right.
 
The bow flair has plagued us from the get go. It just wasn't right compared to the photos supplied. So to tackle the problem the bow rub rail was built out in laminated form from about the chine entry to the bow with water soaked bass wood bent and pinned to shape around the bow port and starboard. This built a "shelf" to which more Rage Easy Sand body filler was added to "bulk up" the area. At this point we needed a product we could easily shape and sand to the correct contour. We discovered yet another Evercoat product called Metal Glaze Ultra that is advertised as applicable over painted surfaces that have been roughed up. It has the same open time as other Evercoat products (about 5 minutes) but this product has a consistency of thick mayonaise. Using a rubber applicator we were able to fair the surface to a near perfect contour.  Sanding and checking with the guage to the left periodically yielded the desired result.
 
Joe

Here it is 3 months later! Where does the time go?
 
I wanted to show you the advancement of the forward Gun Tub that has been made since Jim began the build out of this very complicated sub system. The manual from NAVORD provided by ALROSS has been a break through event for us. We are so grateful.
 
And I must publically compliment Jim on his incredible rendition of the 1:6 scale model of the gun tub. I knew from the outset he was the one to execute this unit and I knew it would be done with care and accuracy but my jaw dropped when I finally saw it all assembled and painted correctly. You will note the flash guards now mounted on the barrells. In addition, though hard to observe, he has detailed the innards with the fire control panel, charger system and rotational mechanism. The only thing he has left off and to come is the search light and 50 cal bandoliers.
 
Joe

Hi Jan!
   You are right in both cases: these are spare propeller blades and small ventilation cowls , there were a lot of them on the ship.

На палубе установлена вентиляционная труба.
 

Thank you all for your likes and interest in my humble work.  
 
 I am continuing to assemble the parts for the model. Ventilation pipe.
 

Here is the jig I made to help taper the capstan bars. The two side pieces are glued to the base board at an angle with just enough room between them for the untapered bar to fit. The board at the top just keeps the bar from moving in the slot. I start by tapering two sides with a small plane, then put a brass shim at the stop to hold the bar a little higher when I plane the other two untapped sides. Then I put another shim over the first and sand all four sides with coarse sand paper, then finish with medium and fine paper.
 

 
And here are all six bars tapered and ready to finish.
 

A quick update. I solved the "U" bracket attachment problem with some small split pins that i had in my bits box.
They are made from .040" x .020" rectangular strip.
 

 
 
I inserted the "U" bracket into the eye of the pin and then filed off the corners of the legs so they would fit in the .040" bore of the turnbuckle. I glued the legs into the bore and it is now much stronger.
 
My wife finished the netting some months ago, now i just need to attach it. But not until the model is complete enough to move out of the workshop.
 

 

 
 

Thank you all for your comments and welcome, its good to be back among friends.
 
It would have been sensible in my last post to include the drawing - in this case taken directly from the small scale plans. Having something to work from makes getting the angles correct much easier.
 

 
 
I moved on to finishing turnbuckles as i need 3 for the bowsprit stays. Earlier (page 51) I had made the turnbuckles without completing the "U" shaped end.
 

 
I made the ends out of wire - each piece cut accurately to length using a jig.
 

 
The "U" shaped end was bent up by eye but i needed a jig to assist when soldering the "U" to the stem.
 

 

 
The "U" end holds the boss around which the stay passes, these were machined from plastic rod.
 

 
Followed by assembly.
 

 
Unfortunately this wasn't the end of the exercise. I installed one and broke it when tensioning the stay. The solder joint between the "U" and the stem failed so I am going to have to rethink this connection.
 
 
 
 

Just a quick update...I wanted to get the caprail all finished before the show this Saturday.   It really finishes it off.  Just like along the quarter deck, the cap rail is laser cut for you for the bow.  The outboard edges were rounded off and each section was painted off the model.   Then the forward-most pieces were glued on the model.

 
Then a laser cut spacer (looks like a small pointed arow) the width of the catheads was used to help position the next longer piece on both sides.  This is an important step.  Its easier to widen the slot later and not so easy to make it smaller so be cautious here.  Than the hance caps were made as before.  The two halves glued together so we have a nice wide piece.  The hance caps were shaped and sanded for a snug fit.   Then care was taken to eliminate any seams between it and the cap rail.   
 

I am happy this is completed and I can move to the deck now.  I will add the margin planks next before starting the coamings just to get them over with.
 

 
 

Thank you GL and the likes. We are getting to the home stretch now.
 
So I blackened all the brass parts and gave the wood pieces a coat of wipe on poly. I then added the little chain sections to the eyebolts and glued one eyebolt into the cap in the six positions for the capstan bars. I then started making the capstan bars. The instructions say to use a chisel to cut out the sections to fit in the square holes but I used a different method. I set up the table saw with the blade barely above the surface of the sliding table and a depth stop at the length of the section to be cut.
 

 
I then used the blade like a dado blade and made a series of cuts on each of the four sides of the blank. BTW does anyone know of a small dado blade that would work with the Byrnes saw? Has anyone tried using multiple blades at the same time to get wider cuts?
 

 
I then used a flat file to file down the excess, starting with the very end until the end fit into the hole.
 

 
I then removed the excess from the rest until the whole length had a nice tight fit in the hole.
 

 

 
I did this for all six holes so each bar is specific to a single hole.
 

 
I now have to taper these bars and I am in the process of making a jig to help with that. More to come on that later.

Your series of pictures are indeed a very nice tutorial for making the bonnets.

Your series of pictures are indeed a very nice tutorial for making the bonnets.

Your series of pictures are indeed a very nice tutorial for making the bonnets.