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G.L.

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  1. Like
    G.L. reacted to Chuck in HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)   
    Decided to spend the rainy day working on the Winnie.  This starts Chapter 9.
     
    Happily, this is the chapter where we will cover up all remaining traces of the sub structure and bulkheads.  It will hopefully start looking much cleaner very soon.  
     
    To begin, the bulwarks along the qdeck were planked at last.   There are two laser cut pieces to make this easier.  They are 3/64" thick. I added the aft section on both sides first.  You should shape it for a perfect fit first.  I made it a tad higher just in case there is some variation model to model.  You also have to notch it over the margin plank along the transom.  Then make life easier for yourself and paint these pieces while its off the model. 
     
    Then glue them in position.   Repeat the process with the forward half of the qdeck bulwarks.  You can see the forward section for the port side laying on deck.  That will be added next before moving on to the fcastle.  Dont mind the dust.  I should have given it a blast of "air in a can"  to clean it up before taking the pictures.  Sorry about that.
     

    For the fcastle bulwarks there is no need for laser cutting.  Just use a 7/32" wide strip cut to length and pre-bent.  I suppose a 1/4" wide strip would work to and just cut it down to fit.  I pre-bent the strip (3/64" thick) and then clamped it in position.  Then I traced the proper height and trimmed it to fit perfectly in one length.  But before doing so I added one short length against the bollard timber at the bow.  This is a flat piece painted red before gluing it in position.  Then you can use this to help position the long strip for the facstle bulwarks.  
     
    I also pre- bent this long piece and once a perfect fit I pre-painted this as well.  Made for a nice clean edge against the deck beams although it wont matter because we will be adding the margin planks at some point soon.
     

    It already looks so much nicer that I dont have to look at the bulkeads any more.  But lets keep going.
     
    Time to add the caprail.  This will cover all the messy layers and finally close up all the framing so I no longer have to look at it.  So far I have only added the caprail along the waist.  A 5/16" x 3/64" strip was used.   I rounded off the outboard edge on top and bottom.  This edge will look nice this way above the fancy molding.   Then I painted it black while off the model including the inboard and outboard edges.  In fact those were most important.  When glued in position the inboard edge is flush against the bulwarks with no overhang.  The outboard edge should have much of an overhang but look nice being directly above the bright unpainted fancy molding.  
     

     
    Here is an over picture of the model.....I will now add the caprail working my way aft first.  Then I will do the fcastle.  These pieces will be laser cut.
     

     
    The bulwarks are widest in the waist at 5/16”…give or take.  If you have a need for a wider caprail that would be problematic.  There is nothing worse than an oversized and thick bulwarks.  It just means you didnt fair them down thin enough early in the project.  
     
    The bulwarks and caprail are slightly narrower along the drifts and qdeck and the fcastle.  These next pieces will be laser cut so the width of your bulwarks will matter. These pieces will have cut-outs for the timberheads.
  2. Like
    G.L. reacted to turangi in Emma C Berry by Turangi - Model Shipways - 1:32   
    Warning! Do not use the pictures below as a guide for installing the parts shown at the main boom jaws! I misread the plans and the parts belong on the jaws of the upper boom!  I only leave them up as perhaps they will help another builder to check the plans twice and build only once. I have fixed the problem and the bottom photo shows what the main boom jaw area should look like.
     
    Time for a long overdue update. With the decent weather I have been trying to catchup with outdoor chores. The weather turned rather too warm and humid for my taste so I did some work on the boom for the mainsail. There is a rather surprising amount of fabrication and installation of parts to be done on what would seem to be a rather simple affair. I won't bore you with details but will post some photos, still a fair amount of touch-up etc. to be done. If you have any questions feel free to post them or contact me.  














  3. Like
    G.L. reacted to Jorge Diaz O in HMS Winchelsea 1764 a 1/35 por Jorge Diaz O   
    Hello, I continue with the carving of the bastions, I made them in American Oak and it turned out to be quite good at making details. The color does not matter because everything will be painted. Then I start with the main wales.












  4. Like
    G.L. reacted to bolin in Sloop from Roslagen by bolin - FINISHED - 1:50   
    The sails are coming along nicely.

    I have glued a bolt rope around the edge using PVA glue. Now I'm working on the reef points.
     
    The next challenge will be the hanks for the stay sail. As far as I can tell, they should be ordinary omega shaped ones tied to the sail.
     

     
     
  5. Like
    G.L. reacted to Ras Ambrioso in Fifie by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - Amati - 1/32 scale   
    I am including some pictures of the rigging and the dry fitted sail. Little work still remains since I broke one of the stays while installing the sail. On my next boat I will definitely do the whole rigging including the sail in a scale mockup away from the model. On this one, I had trouble with the final length of the stays and, in retrospect, I would have  done the gaff halyard a little different.
     

     

     
    Notice the slack in the aft mast stays.
     

     

     

     

     
    Thanks for looking.
     
    Ras
     
     
     
  6. Like
    G.L. reacted to hamilton in Off Center Skiff by hamilton - FINISHED - 1:12 scale - SMALL   
    A very quick update on the OC Skiff - thwarts finished and installed. Not much to say about this - in the first photo you can see the sculling pad I installed based on an image of the OC Skiff I saw online which bears this feature, and in the second photo you can sort of see where I've thinned out the edges of the thwarts to lighten their look - a small feature, but I wanted to try to add this detail....
     
    Enjoy!
    hamilton



  7. Like
    G.L. reacted to Halvor in Norden by Halvor - Billing Boats - 1:30 - First build   
    Buildweek 11 - Entry 12
     
    Hi all,
     
    Since last entry I did some sanding, and the hull is now prepared for the second layer.
     
    Starboard Bow:

     
    Starboard Aft:

     
    Port Bow:

     
    Port Aft:

     
    I am now going to start to add a second layer of planking, this is not part of the kit, but I want to try it in order to achieve an unpainted surface.
     
    Thanks for following my project!
     
    All the best from Halvor
  8. Like
    G.L. reacted to Ras Ambrioso in Fifie by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - Amati - 1/32 scale   
    Today I have, technically, finished the rigging on the Fifie. Next will be to complete all the loose deck details. During this rigging I had trouble with the mast stays as it became very difficult to balance port and starboard to keep a plumb mast. As a result some of the tackle for my stays looks a little loose. I would appreciate any comments on the subject of controlling the stays tension to keep the plumb. MY method was a rolling knot but then the loops look unequal. Your advise will be appreciated.
    I also noted an interference between the after-mast forward stay and the load line for the derrick. The indicated arrangement in the drawing will only allow for loading from one side of the boat. This is shown on the drawing as item 1.
     

     
    The drawings are no very clear as to how to belay the control lines for the load, supposedly handled by the crew during the unloading. These are marked in the photo as item 2. Are they supposed to be tied to the stay? If so, what knot should be used? 
    Following are photos of the actual unloading of the Fifie:


     
    Notice the messy decks. LOL
  9. Like
    G.L. reacted to yvesvidal in Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed   
    Here is a picture of all the parts going into the building of the windlass: 
     

     
    The Deck #B, covered with fine planks of basswood and stained to show the outrages of the North sea: 
     

     
    The main 4 inches gun will be part of Deck #C and is not described in this section. The platform has just been assembled to see how things fit together.
     
    Below is a picture of the Snowberry after her refit: 
     

     
    And here is the model. I have tried to depict all the major components, visible on the deck. 
     

     
    The large ring at the bow is a piece of brass tube (not provided in the kit)
    The cleat are from the kit but have been closed with small strips of styrene, to reflect the real cleats.
    The two round vents are not provided in the kit and are tack pins, inserted in the deck.
    The central mushroom vent is not bent...sorry.
    I am also missing the two tall and thin tubes located ahead of the gun platform. Not sure what they are....
     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    The stanchions are 20 mm high, two holes and are provided by Calder Craft. They are inserted with a #60 hole and CA glue to secure them. The railing is done with Bead Stringing wire which is very realistic of a steel meshed wire used on the bow of these ships. Its diameter is 0.46 mm allowing it to pass easily into the 0.7 mm holes.
     

     
    That concludes the Module #1 (bow). I will be presenting another module in a few days.
     
    Yves
     
     
     
     
     
     
  10. Like
    G.L. reacted to yvesvidal in Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed   
    MODULE #1 : the Bow
     
    Well, after finishing the hull, I had a very strong urge to start at least one section of the Corvette. Following you will find the suggested implementation according to the kit and my realization, based on the kit and on pictures of the Snowberry.
     
    The kit provides for a relatively detailed windlass: 
     
     
     
    Anchors and guides are also provided in the kit and are very easy and quick to print: 
     
     
     
    Overall, this is the end result: 
     

     
    That bow is perfect for a generic Corvette and will fit most of the Lower Class ships and variants. However, the HMCS Snowberry that I am depicting after her upgrade is not exactly equipped in the same way. Finding historical pictures of good quality is a challenge, for that particular ship but a couple of archival pictures are in high resolution and offering numerous details.
     
    Yves
  11. Like
    G.L. reacted to yvesvidal in Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed   
    A few updates. I have been waiting for more than a week for the stanchions. Age of Sails handled my request quickly, but placed my shipment on a ground Fedex carrier....$14.00 for an envelope of not even 2 ounces....
     
    Anyway, patience is a must have when you try to build models during a Plandemic. 
     
    As I mentioned before, the hull is now finished.... I am lying: I need to paint the rudder and the propeller and glue them to call it complete. 
     
    I pretty much reached my objective which was to build the hull, with this new (to me) 3D printing technology. The long and tedious work done on the various pieces of decks and their perfect fitting on the hull, allows me to approach each segment of deck as a sub-project whenever I feel the urge to do it. That is important on a large model like this one....it is very easy to be overwhelmed.
     
    So, to display the hull and most importantly to protect it and be able to store it vertically, I have also built a display stand.
     

     
    The main board is a "step" made of pine of 4 feet long by 10 inches wide. It is your traditional step found at Lowes' or Home Depot. The good thing about these boards is that they are very sturdy and will not warp. On top of it are glued, 1/2 x 1/2 inches pieces of maple wood, colored with Cherry wood stain. The main board is stained with Natural color and varnished with Polycrylic Semi-Gloss, using a foam pad for application.
     

     
    Two #10 (5 mm) nuts are glued inside the hull to provide for a strong and discrete anchor: 
     

     
    Yves
  12. Like
    G.L. reacted to usedtosail in NRG Capstan Project by usedtosail - FINISHED - 1:16   
    I added the rabbets and gave the whole coaming a good sanding. I then tapered the sides from 2" up using a sanding block. I rounded the corners from 1" up by making a stop cut with a razor saw at the 1" mark, then using a flat file to file off the edges at each corner. I then rounded each corner with a sanding block. I then gave the whole coaming a sanding with fine sandpaper, and here is how it looks on the beams.
     

     
    Next up is the grating. I am going to try making it out of boxwood to get some contrast.
  13. Like
  14. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from vaddoc in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    16. After deck beams
    Time to finish the deck beams behind the bulkhead.
    The deck beams round the helm port are reinforced with some carlings.

    The last deck beams are laid.
     

     

    Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your comments.
     
    Till next week!
  15. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from gsdpic in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    15. Bulkhead
    The cockpit area and the stern section are separated by a bulkhead. As my model is half anatomic, I will make a half bulkhead: from starboard side to midship.
    On the pictures you can see that I removed the thwart and the cockpit coaming arrangement, that is also the reason because I didn't  glue the different sections in the hull yet.
    In the bulkhead, a panel, below the thwart gives access to the stern section.
     

  16. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from vaddoc in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    The mast step holds also the goose neck fitting.
    Sawing a piece of brass plate for the fitting.

    The goose neck fitting is attached to the mast step with four heavy screws. Imitating those screws:
    -Drilling four screw holes and knocking a brass nail in each of them.

    - Cutting the nails and filing them flat.

     

    - Sawing a (screwdriver)groove in each of the screws.

    - Soldering a piece of brass pipe on it as goose beck holder.

     

    The goose neck fitting attached to the step of the mast (The pale piece of wood at the bottom is a temporary spacer).

    In front of the mast stand bits. They consist of a fork shaped piece of ebony.

    Filing the heads of the bits

     

    The bits are placed against the second forward deck beam.

    To allow the mast to tilt freely from vertical to horizontal position, the lower part must be able to pass through the deck. An opening is provided for this in the foredeck.
    The carlings for the opening:

    Round the opening come small coamings. A bit hard to see on the picture.

    Just behind the mast stand two sheet bits with each thre sheaves to guide the sheets to the holes in the front of the cockpit coaming.
    I laminate the bits from three thin ebony slats to obtain a straight groove for the sheaves

    The cap of the sheet bits also contains two sheaves and must be folded into shape.

     

     

     

    The arrangement of mast step and bits.

    The whole will not yet glued definitively in the hull at this stage.
     
    Thank you very much for reading this log, for your likes and for your comments.
     
    Till next week!
     
  17. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from FriedClams in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    Eberhard and Gary, thank you very much for your interest and your complements.
  18. Like
    G.L. reacted to Valeriy V in Varyag 1901 by Valeriy V - FINISHED - scale 1:75 - Russian Cruiser   
    Installation of parts on the bottom of the funnel fiue.
     
     




  19. Like
    G.L. reacted to Valeriy V in Varyag 1901 by Valeriy V - FINISHED - scale 1:75 - Russian Cruiser   
    I greet all members of the forum and continue building the model.  
     
    Installation of parts on the top of the funnel fiue.
     
     


  20. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    16. After deck beams
    Time to finish the deck beams behind the bulkhead.
    The deck beams round the helm port are reinforced with some carlings.

    The last deck beams are laid.
     

     

    Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your comments.
     
    Till next week!
  21. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    15. Bulkhead
    The cockpit area and the stern section are separated by a bulkhead. As my model is half anatomic, I will make a half bulkhead: from starboard side to midship.
    On the pictures you can see that I removed the thwart and the cockpit coaming arrangement, that is also the reason because I didn't  glue the different sections in the hull yet.
    In the bulkhead, a panel, below the thwart gives access to the stern section.
     

  22. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from bolin in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    16. After deck beams
    Time to finish the deck beams behind the bulkhead.
    The deck beams round the helm port are reinforced with some carlings.

    The last deck beams are laid.
     

     

    Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your comments.
     
    Till next week!
  23. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from Wintergreen in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    16. After deck beams
    Time to finish the deck beams behind the bulkhead.
    The deck beams round the helm port are reinforced with some carlings.

    The last deck beams are laid.
     

     

    Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your comments.
     
    Till next week!
  24. Like
    G.L. got a reaction from Wintergreen in Clipper d'Argenteuil by G.L. - scale 1/15 - POF - SMALL   
    15. Bulkhead
    The cockpit area and the stern section are separated by a bulkhead. As my model is half anatomic, I will make a half bulkhead: from starboard side to midship.
    On the pictures you can see that I removed the thwart and the cockpit coaming arrangement, that is also the reason because I didn't  glue the different sections in the hull yet.
    In the bulkhead, a panel, below the thwart gives access to the stern section.
     

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