GrantGoodale

Eight or nine years ago I was fortunate enough to take a river cruise up the Nile and visit some of Egypt's great historical sites. I also had the opportunity to walk thru some great museums many of which contained models of the ships that plied the river in the ancient days.  A year of so after the trip I came across this Amati model of an ancient Egyptian ship.  The box claims that it is a replica of a ship, the image of which was chiseled into the stone of a tomb or temple.  I immediately purchased the model and the kit sat in my "stash" for severl years.  It has finally found its way to my workbench.
 
One of the interesting aspects of ancient shipbuilding, there were no drills to make holes for pegs or nails; so the ship was crafted by shaping the wood with crude iron tools and then using ropes of various sizes to lash the wooden pieces together.  While I will be using modern cutting tools and adhesives, one of my main objectives is make a model that at least appears to have been built by the same methods as the ancients.  There is another build log of this ship that I have reviewed and may refer to at times as I proceed with my build.
 
Before I even begin the construction I have a decision to make.  Much of the materials in the kit used to construct the hull are laser cut ply.  It is quite light in color and has the typical burnt edges.  I will try to sand most of the dark edges away (hopefully without distorting the part).  The problem is should I try to stain the  hull or just leave it natural.  If I decide to stain; it looks like I will have to do this relatively early in the build.  Definitely before I begin the rope lashing steps.  Second issue, should I decide to stain, what should I use.  I have no experience with staining.  Perhaps a search thru the forum will give me some insight.
 
Well that is my introduction.  I urge you to leave written comments; especially those that might help me through the build.  Well, thanks for reading.

A full build log can be found at:
 
http://www.modelshipwrights.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=242693&ord=&page=1
 
HTH

Still ‘touching’ up the planking post sanding. Still adding filler with some further sanding to do.  There are also some large gaps between the top of the lead gun ports and the upper row of planking.  I’ve inserted some small wood filler pieces and will sand/fill them down.  Then, time to file down gun ports that protrude past the ship siding/surface.  The gun port edges should be flush with the ship siding.  Have completed the quarter deck inner planking for the insides.  Re-reading the instruction set for anything I may have missed.    I’m currently researching paint sources as it’s time to start some painting.  I’ve seen where several paint supply sources state their Victory paint set is out of stock.  Not sure if I should simply wait or not.  I’m looking at other modelshipworld.com resources for potential suppliers and am open to anyone with other sources.. Thanks in advance. 
 
Also, nearly time to begin the second layer of planking.  

I have all kinds of pvc around in my leftover building house places. I never thougth of doing this but have use pvc pipe for many other things besides plumbing (E,G, putting 2" pvc around surveyor stakes on my property).

Thanks for the info on the hull. It looks like it will be a challenge. Nice work.

2019, the beginning of the construction inside the model ship.
 
First part,   planks to support the deck beams, very easy to position; the height in reference with the gun port openings  is the same everywhere.
Followed by 7 inner  frames. 
Still other parts to do before to fix everything.

Ship board damage control  now finds the bulkheads sanded fair at the keel rabbet and the rabbet strip and keel have been replaced.
 
Time to move on, by attending to the transom frames. These are very delicate members and have to be added somewhat "in the air" as they are attached, one by one to the former sides w/o much structural support. I will describe what I did but in hindsight I will also suggest an assembly method that might be a bit easier.
 
The pictures in Chapter 3 related to transom member assembly aren't too clear but they suffice. Once again I was on a roll with the bulkhead supports I had used for most of the other bulkheads and placed them (the vertical ones) on the aft end of #22. They should have gone on the inside of that bulkhead. This is going to give me a bit of the problem when I have to add the fillers where the stern terminates. However they did give a nice landing area for the inside stern frames that were to be added. I then added the 2 inner most stern members per directions (separated by 1/8 inch spacers along the former) to yield a 7/16" spacing. I liked the support they gave enough to add horizontal members port and starboard to support the remaining stern members. These are separated by 7/16" spacers per directions. All spacers and frame members are glued one to the other across the stern. These frames should be flush with the top of bulkhead #22.
 
I am left with the problem of still having to shape the stern with fillers as one does the bow. This I perceive will be a bit cumbersome. In hindsight I should have re-enforced the bulkhead from the inside as I said and executed the following:
 
On the aft side I would have placed a 3/8" X 1/2" strip across the bulkhead port and starboard side of the bulkhead and then filled in the balance of the stern area with balsa filler.
 
Also for the more fastidious modeler I would be tempted to extend the horizontal legs of each transom frame member such that they can extend forward of #22 bulkhead  (slotting this bulkhead to accept the thicker base leg of the frames) and placing those 3/8" X 1/2" horizontal strips on bth sides of the bulkhead (i.e. forward and aft).
Joe
 

Thanks Michael, Patrick and the likers,
 
Next item is the keelson:
Part 6: The keelson
The keelson is made of oak. The notches for the frames are made in the same way as I did for the keel.

The keelson is glued in place. The mast step  is also placed.

 
 
G.L.

Completed projects:

HMS Triton cross section - FINISHED - Scale 1:24

 
Current projects:

Oostends schipje (Ostend shrimper) - scale 1:20

Cross section Fishing Smack - Scale 1/20, POF, approx. 1920

I received some new plywood bulkheads from Model Expo. Although the sheet was warped, I was able to salvage bulkhead 2b, which was the one I needed. 
 
Bulkheads are set and stern framing is complete. The stern was especially tricky to align and frame. I hope the fairing will balance any symmetry errors. I’ll have one more update before I put together a wood order. The laser cutting on the wood in this kit could be better. Very inconsistent, non square edges. 
Steve

I used 1“x2”x3” steel blocks to square the bulkheads. It worked well. Some of the mast filler blocks are installed while I wait for the replacement bulkhead from Model Expo. The remaining bulkheads cannot be squared until bulkhead 2b is installed. 
 
I dry fit the bow filler blocks and beakhead platforms. This will be tricky to install as you need to center the platforms with the reference lines on the bulkhead. I will use the bullwork templates to check the lines before I install the bow fillers and platforms. 
Steve

I'm sure you're thinking, "Keith, those are some strange wheels" and yes, they are! I tried making them which ended in utter failure. I then searched off and on for almost six months looking for spoked wheels .35 to .40 inches in diameter and came up dry. I was even searching for toys that I might be able to rob the wheels from. I was at the point of giving up and not making the gatling guns and signal cannon till I came across these snaps in Joann's used in sewing. I used the size 1, they're .392 in diameter. I know they're not Kosher but sometimes (for me at least) If I can't make it, I have to make do. 
 I can envision using these in a small scale build for hand wheeled gate valves, etc. 

Greetings
 
Upper deck work in progress. First pic shows some 1x4 mm wood added to each  beam to raise up the cannons relative to the lower edge of the gunports (pic 2).  The main deck gratings have also been placed with epoxy rather than CA - lots left to do with this model and I don't want them to get dislodged - thus completing the work on the main deck.  When performing these modifications it is important to check that it causes no change to anything else further down the line.  for instance two bulkheads sit on this deck and they must align with the top edge of the forward and aft side patterns (which they still do).
 

The instructions call for planking the upper deck almost in full then installing it.  Problem here is that there has to be some bending to get the deck in place.  This would be difficult fully planked.  So a few planks were placed off the ship to get thing started - the aft plank that runs across the deck ship (large black arrow) and the planks that run centrally up to the openings for the bits (small arrows).  it is much easier to sand these openings and those for the masts while still off the ship.  Once on, the deck is planked almost to the bulkhead frames (which eventually will be removed).
 

Also seen on this deck is the hatch combing which had to remade as the kit's combing was pretty much destroyed when I tried to sand it.  This part is made of a wood called dibetou.  I am not a fan of this wood as it is VERY brittle along its grain.  even cutting out pieces from the pallet may cause the part to split along the grain.  Here's a pick of the original part (upper) and the beginnings of the new one.  I have a feeling I will be making more scratch parts along the way!  The red arrow shows the tiny tab that hold the part to the pallet.  grain runs the same way as the arrow is pointing.
 

Below pic shows the final hatch combing
 

Again I digressed a bit from the plans which call for planking the deck and gluing  the combing onto the planking.  In reality the combing would sit on the beams and planks placed around the combing.  This gives a better look I think as well as being more accurate
 

Well people,
I decided to take a temporary breaking from "trying" to paint. Seeing I'm close to mating the hull together I decided to order 2 slotted brass pedestals and a wooden base. They came the other day and this is what I got...
 

I guess you have to order TWO PEDESTALS....lol
At least it wasn't a painting error...lol
 
 

I finally finished the launches!  I don’t know yet if I should do the rigging first or install the lifeboats then rig around them. 

these 2 are bare bones because I lost so many little parts.  It’s ok though, these 2 will be 70% hidden. 

normally I would put on these props but I’ve had enough of these launches. So I opted to just call them done!

Today I basically did the same thing as yesterday to 4 more launches. 



today the Tamiya tape worked great  I took the advice of Canute and put the tape on my jeans first,  worked like a charm too. 

Hi All
I thought about whether I could sail with the model and whether remote control is an option. I know that "someone" before me has tried to sail with it. and therefore has changed the keel - first by drilling holes in the lead keel - as this was too heavy obviously and then made the keel deeper - for the sake of stability. I never tried to launch the model before I changed the keel back to the original.
In other words, I try to launch the model in a small tub to see its buoyancy and stability. I think the model is waterproof enough to do the experiment.

as I was well aware, it is too heavy on the water because tin is heavier than iron.
I have to give up the idea of sailing with it. I still want to build sails and rich as if I could sail with it - mostly the idea that I can hoist and lower sails if I want or take the mast off and on again if I want to. It also means that it must be a little ruby and not exactly perfect. a precursor to a next model that can then be remotely controlled

 
 
Jens.
 
 

Main mast.

Main mast arrangement......not yet fitted and still a lot of work required but just getting a feel for what they look like on the hull.

The port side planking above the first layer wales is done. Again you can see the original wood color in the area of the wales compared to that which is above. I pencil marked X's on the first layer wales so as to avoid placing the second layer in the wrong location.

I also started to clean up and fair the inside of the hull in the forecastle area. I glued scrap 1/8" basswood and balsa in-between the frames as a guide while removing material. Lots of sawdust!

MIke

todays update 
 
finished up planking rear deck. started testing the wood putty to fill in any gaps. didn't have many but figured I would fill in. hope to start forward deck planking tomorrow. then the hull planking after that which I am dreading and intimidated by.  
 
going to need to get a syringe for this glue though. tough getting a fine line with the little bottle I'm using. live and learn 😂
 
thanks all whom have visited and have liked 😁
 

John, I once lived in Denver, Colorado, which also had something like 300 days of sunshine a year. I appreciate what you have got in Brisbane! I should have done these guns two years ago before I moved. The weather report for here tomorrow no longer shows sunshine, which was going to be the only sunshine for the next 15 days. Druxey, I am going to call Micro Mark tomorrow and see if they can shed any light (so to say) on how I can do this with a lamp. Moving the lamp around is an interesting idea.
 
As usual, nothing quite goes as one expects. I printed out the artwork on the film and got satisfyingly high resolution, higher than the printer does on regular paper. However, I did not read the fine print in the instructions that the maximum recommended size is 3" by 3" for the metal, not the artwork; the artwork needs to have a margin of  ½" within the metal all around. So my artwork was too big. A few failed attempts later, I finally got the film printed to the correct size. Used up the entire first sheet of film getting it right. And I don't have enough door hinges at this point. So there will be a round 2...
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

Now the not so good ...
It seems with every build I screw something up that needs a work around. Each model has something my eyes go straight to with regret.
In this case, I managed, way back at the beginning, to install the pieces that the wheel rests on UPSIDE DOWN! So they are curved on the top, and straight on the bottom.
I fussed a bit, but there was no way to unglue/pin them without risking major destruction.
I noticed this when looking at the template for the stern timbers and saw they expected a straight line attachment. The curve not only meant the timbers had to be longer and angled, but screwed up the angle of the timbers so that I had to put a small extension on the top where they connect to the aft hog chain post in order to clear the deck and the (eventual) placement of the decorative railing.
So a day's work fitting a solution with which I'm not totally happy but it's the best I can do. Sigh.
Thank goodness these things are made of wood.
 

OK, first the good.
Made the stacks and primed them - put in place without glue pending painting and blackening the rod connecting them.
Then on to the paddle wheel. Fiddly but not really hard.
Also took some time to make turnbuckles as I don't like the flat brass ones that come in the kit (Thanks Kurt). These are a half inch long. Will touch up the paint once they're installed.
I found a long bit of copper chain in my stash and I believe I will (at least try) to use chain for the hog "chain" - I gather cable was most often used instead of chain but I think I like the look of the chain so will try that.
First though I'll put the trim on the roof of the Texas cabin so the hog chain rigging doesn't get in the way of my clumsy fingers as I fuss with that what with CA and clamps and all, and them glue on the pilot house and fasten its tie-downs.

I have for a good number of years, now, been studying this Berain drawing of the stern, and puzzling over the significance of the deliberately dark shaded figures of The America’s, Europe, Apollo and his Chariot, the Port quarter figure beneath the port lantern, and the three zodiac signs.  This always seemed strange, yet deliberate.

Today, I had something of an epiphany!  If it is so that some of SR’s ornamentation was salvaged and re-installed during the refit, then perhaps, these shaded ornaments represent those that were salvaged.
 
When you think about it, at this later stage of ornamentation in 1689, the large figurative works that were so characteristic of Puget’s early work, were largely a thing of the past.  Yet, here are these relatively large figures adorning the stern of SR after her refit.  Also consider the archeological convention of reconstructing old bones around the fossilized remnants of the original skeleton.  The original bone is darker than the artificial medium that makes up the re-construction.  That’s kind of what this drawing reminds me of.
 
It has been noted by others that the figure of the Orient/Asia, astride her camel, on the starboard side of the tafferal, is actually supposed to represent a tiger.  Well, no, I think Berain actually drew a camel.  Perhaps, though, the original figure which was too rotten to salvage actually was a tiger, and perhaps Berain chose to alter the figure with a camel.  Perhaps.
 
Then, there is the known fact that the coffered ceiling of the Great Council Chamber was preserved and re-incorporated into the re-built ship.

This is significant for two reasons.  First, the paintings that adorn this ceiling are thematically consistent with Berain’s allegory on the exterior, and thus suggest that there would be some ornamental consistency from Puget’s past into Berain’s present.
 
Secondly, the outline of the ceiling suggests that the timber framing of the stern would have remained largely the same as Laurent Hubac constructed it, even if Etienne had to replace most of it with fresh timber.  It is not hard to imagine the dilligent son respecting his father’s intuitive framing of the ship’s lines, and thus also maintaining the wing transom above the stern chase ports, as is drawn by Berain.
 
With all of that in mind, it becomes increasingly plausible for me to construct an ornamental tableaux around the vague outline of this ship, which increasingly, I believe to be Soleil Royal, perhaps painted by Puget, sometime between 1670 and 1688.

Ornamentally, the allegory would be much the same, but the structure, ornamentation and support of the lower two projecting stern balconies would have been more florid and figurative as Puget designed for the Monarch/Royal Louis.


 
The second is a better drawing provided by Heinrich, which Comes from the German study of the Royal Louis that Chapman first brought to my attention.
 
Or, so this all seems to me.

Hi everyone,
 
I spent a little more time in Adobe Illustrator, trying to get cleaner drawings of the king's cyphers for photo etching. Once I got the hang of the pen tool, I was able to draw the forms rather than filling in the backgrounds (my previous attempt). And this allowed me to vary the thickness of the lines. Since I don't know how well the photo etch will deal with fine detail, I will try a couple with different thicknesses of line, hoping some good ones come out of the mix.
 
Thinking about other metal objects that would be 5/16" thick real size to fill up the sheet, I have drawn up the door hinges for all of the partitions. I also drew some vent fields for the cannon.
 
Can anyone think of other metal objects this thin, while I am at it? I thought about the compass. The etching process is supposed to etch from both sides, which means that there can be recessed parts not cut through all the way depending on how the art is arranged. Maybe cut the compass rose into one side? Not sure how I would color that to pick out the raised parts later.
 
Maybe the pump rhodings?
 
Mark