Jump to content

Chuck

Administrators
  • Posts

    8,940
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Now where was I?? 😁 Last I reported, I had completed the backbone with the keel and stem parts. This was secured to a large baseboard with brackets to ensure the bulkhead former doesnt bend. Using three brackets on each side ensures that the bulkhead former is completely straight. Fast forward to today.... I have glued the 27 bulkheads in their slots. I was careful to make sure they were squared up to the bulkhead former. This is probably twice as many bulkheads than the usual POB kit on the market. This will ensure that the planks lay nicely without any issues. Now you might notice all of those clamps. These are simple binder clips. They come in a variety of sizes. I often see many people trying some wacky things to try and prevent the bulkhead extensions from breaking while you fair the hull etc. I have tried many things as well. This time I am going simple. If you just angle the clips so they are both on the extension and on the main bulkhead, they will stiffen up the area that is prone to splitting and breaking. It really does make a difference. I encourage all of you to try this at some point. In addition, if you have some longer bulkhead extensions like those shown at the stern, they have an even bigger tendency to break off because they are longer. So for these you may want to try using some "L" brackets. These metal brackets are really cheap and also do a great job protecting the bulkhead extensions. You can place them on one side or even both sides of a bulkhead extension and use the binder clips to hold them in place. This will absolutely prevent the extension from breaking while you fair the hull. When installing the bulkheads I made sure that the laser etched reference marks were facing the correct direction. All of the numbered bulkheads have the etched side facing aft......the lettered bulkheads are facing forward. This is very important. A photo of those "L" brackets being used... At the bow, the three "bow fillers" were glued into position following the plans (BF1,BF2 and BF3). These were pretty straight forward although I made sure that the tops were level on both the port and starboard sides. You will also notice the wonderful CNC milled boxwood figurehead that Jack made for me. Its a pretty darn good fit and looks great. Much better than I could ever carve by hand. I havent applied any finish to it yet. Note the bow filler pieces (BF1,BF2 and BF3). Rather than add the stern frames at this point, I will start fairing the bulkhead first. This will make it easier to install the gun port framing for the sills, etc. That will be the next step after I finish fairing the bulkheads which will take a while. This hull is a beast. I will post again once the fairing is done and I have started on those port sills. Its really good to be working on the Winnie again. Its time to finish this thing. And yes the stem and keel parts are all Alaskan Yellow Cedar. The entire model will be made from it except for a few boxwood accent pieces and moldings etc. Chuck
  2. Its a chucky "Syren Brand". You cant buy it in any store. I get it custom made and dyed in Europe. Unfortunately I dont plan on selling the raw stuff retail. That is a trade "secret" of sorts. The only way to get it is to buy my finished rope. Its too expensive for me to start supplying the raw stuff to folks and I wont make any $$$. Sorry. Unfortunately you are left with trying the usual suspects that have been talked about on this site. I want my Syren Rope to be special and I only want it to be available in rope form from my store. Too much competition out there and I need avery edge I can get. I have been asked before but unfortunately that is the case. Sorry. Chuck
  3. Basically he takes existing contemporary models and just draws his diagrams from them as the models are rigged. He doesnt stray from the few models he has chosen. There may be many errors on those models or at least "modeler's conventions" shown on the model are redrawn faithfully. So rather than base the rigging from these few contemporary models as fact.....you would be better off using in some cases....lees masting and rigging for English warships. But you cant go wrong with the Underhill stuff. That is what I would get. For the clippers....I think there was a book by Longridge on building his model of the cutty sark.....I have no idea how accurate also see ..... Running Her Easting Down: A documentary of the development and history of the British tea clippers, culminating with the building of the Cutty Sark by william baker.
  4. that looks absolutely wonderful. You have done a masterful job with the kit....I must thank you for terrific work, i just couldnt buy a better testimonial for the kit!!! Amazing work.
  5. Looks good....but I hope you dont mix those up!!! One slight shift and you will have a hard time figuring out which is which.
  6. No, plans are NOT available. You must buy a kit. They are just out of stock and should be restocked soon. Waiting on some 1/32" cedar sheets to make another ten kits. As soon as I get them I will finish them up. I will announce here that they are available.
  7. No it wasnt that....The software we use no longer has that as an option. Something about compiling all of the larger topics takes forever to make printable. It was causing issues especially with the larger topics. So you can still do it but you must copy and paste it yourself. Chuck
  8. Yes I also agree that yours is way too white. I would not go with that color at all. If its a modelers convention, it is one used by modelers who havent yet figured out that it shouldnt be white, LOL. Never saw a contemporary model like that. It just hits you and its hard to focus on the other wonderful items you built. I prefer the natural look like on this contemporary model.
  9. Very nice work...the breech rope looks a bit heavy for those guns however. You might want to try a smaller diameter and see what it looks like, at least as it wraps around the button. But its very neatly done. Chuck
  10. Actual boxwood carving blanks are available here. You will see a much noticeable difference when using a harder wood like box. https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php#!/Extra-Boxwood-Carving-Blanks-One-full-set-of-the-seven-decorations-needed/p/98399892/category=25581355
  11. Thanks...No indont sell paint and wood filler. But keep in mind that if you do buy filler, use Elmers wood filler. It is the perfect color match for yellow cedar.
  12. Thats a good start Bob.....It will be nice to have you in NJ over the summer. Be sure to contact me so we can get together and you can come to our local meetings and my workshop sessions.
  13. I wouldnt worry about it util you get to the last sheer plank. Then re-access the situation. You dont have to fill the entire gap and the cap rail will cover it anyway. Chuck
  14. Really looking great. You are doing a masterful job with this kit. I should have some more rigging kits in a few days.....it all depends on my daughter who comes home for spring break sometime soon. Chuck
  15. It is looking beautiful. Nice work on the platforms. They are a tricky thing to fit properly and yours look really good.
  16. Awesome Mike. I cant wait to see it. I will be there as usual and look forward to it every year. But dont rush it
  17. Looking excellent Rusty. It was really nice to see the model in person too!!! It even looks better than the photos. Next time I will try and make a trip up to see you. Chuck
  18. Ok guys....another ten kits are ready to order. I will be getting another batch of wood on Thursday too so I will start immediately on another batch of ten. I should also have more rigging packages ready in a few days but I fear if you wait that long this batch will be sold out. So get em while you can. Chuck
×
×
  • Create New...