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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. I do the former....I can sense when the stretchiness is all but gone while adjusting the thread on the end. I dont test the middle of the span at all. The little difference you get with a wobble wont help or hurt. It's usually much more forgiving. My bet is on the third most common symptom for the line crinkling up on itself listed below. Its all a matter of testing and getting the feel for it. Rope making is something done by feel or the art of it. 1. one line is too slack... 2. One of the hooks is loose and swivelling. 3. You are twisting the individual strands too much causing them to bunch up on each other. They are all easy fixes. Its just a matter of practice and once you get your recipe down.......write it down for ever size rope you make. Then you will be all set. I am making rope today too!!! What a surprise. I am making one package or a 20' length of rope every 8 minutes. Although my pace tends to slow down a bit after a few hours. Chuck
  2. Nope.....once they are listed you can order. I cant take pre-orders. That just ends with somebody being mad at me. Its a first come first serve thing. Trust me .....I have gotten an ear-full, LOL. Chuck
  3. Yes....I should have had another ten kits available this week but I had to stop and switch gears to make about 300 packages of rope. I am only about half way through. Having said that, I am still shooting for this weekend. I have all the laser cut parts completed for the ten kits....I just have to pack them up and add the other fiddly bits!!! Chuck
  4. That looks good. Just keep practicing and trying different ways. You will get in a groove with it. Make sure that the hooks arent loose either. Make sure they dont swivel and are locked in. This can affect your rope as well. But you are getting there....that rope looks very good indeed.
  5. Custom Engraved bases are now available for the Longboat project. Click here for the page on the online store. https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/medway-longboat-1742.php#!/Medway-Longboat-Custom-Engraved-Base/p/131063155/category=31834291 The Engraved base is a kit that you must build. You get all the parts needed to assemble the base including the burl veneer for the top and cradle pieces. We can custom engrave your name and date on the end pieces as shown in the photograph. Be specific and please realize that there is a space limitation for characters. So enter only your name and the date you want engraved. If you dont want your name added, please write "no custom engraving". Then you will only see the Longboat name on the front and back of the base. The veneer is glued to the top and the four sides are then glued to it. But to prevent the top from warping you must also glue the scrap veneer to the bottom of the board as well. This evens out the board so it doesnt cup badly. The scrap veneer is also included. The veneer is glued on with Titebond on both sides. Dont be skimpy with the glue. Spread it all over the 1/4" thick cherry board with no gaps which would cause bubbles to form in the veneer top. Spread out a thin coat over the entire board and then clamp the veneer to it. Do this on both sides at once and then clamp all three pieces between two thicker boards if you get my meaning. This presses everything nicely together so you wont get any bubbles. Then glue the two side pieces into position. Sand the ends flush with the front and back of the board. Lastly, add the longer engraved pieces along the front and back of the base. Easy as pie!!! An extra six dollars will be charged for shipping do the the size and shape of the base parts.
  6. Nicely done Chris!! You are a quick builder. Beautiful work and there is no reason at all to be hesitant or nervous about showing the images.
  7. Oh almost forgot to mention. I just restocked these today....there are now six rope rockets in stock. I know several of you have been waiting patiently as they were out of stock for a couple of weeks. Sorry for the shameless plug!!!
  8. That look good. The bumps as you say are a result of having the lines not evenly tensioned. If you have one line looser than the others, that is the one that will bunch up on you as the others remain taught. AND...yes you are also correct in that if you move the headstock too quickly the lines will bunch up when they get twisted and sag. This is something you can manage with just a little practice. It becomes something you just get a feel for. I have made rope flawlessly in complete darkness during a blackout just based on knowing how the rope feels when its twisting. I use a simple triple knot on each hook. Again this is something that just gets easier with practice. I use a simple overhand knot first which remains loose, this allows me to adjust the tension in the line by feel as I pull on it. When I know it is the right amount of stretch, then I give it two more knots. Chuck
  9. Yes...That is all I am using. They will get darker after you apply some wipe on poly. I am running the pencil down only one edge of each seam. Chuck
  10. That looks fantastic!! You are in groove again. I am so happy to see that.
  11. That is looking great Rusty!!! Also ...just to let you guys know, I gave Rusty some new rope that I am testing. Rusty is using rope that I made using a new custom brand of thread that I had made which is ultra smooth with ZERO fuzz and lumps. You can see how defined the lay of the rope looks. I am moving closer and closer to switching over to this new stuff. It wont unravel at all just like my current offering. Great work Rusty...😊
  12. You can do it both ways.....but its easier to dye the rope afterwards. Look at videos where they show how folks dye yarn. They will tell you everything you need to know.
  13. The rope is already lightly waxed. No need to add anymore. Try working the rope without sealing the ends....the rope should not unravel. It may fray if you play/tease it enough. But if you just cut with a sharp blade you shouldnt have any issues. Although applying CA to the end of a line so you can cut it into a sharp point does help get it through the small holes in blocks.
  14. Its happening all over....They are pretty much stopping production all around for the smooth all-cotton Corrodonant threads. Most people are buying the acrylic and poly stuff now for crochet. Its a shame. Its too expensive to make and fewer and fewer people are enjoying that hobby now. The remaining companies who do sell it have a poor quality product as well. Lizbeths and Aunt Lidias are a fuzzy lumpy mess. Valadini is very fuzzy with limited sizes etc. The remaining stuff from DMC is too soft and loosely laid up. The most promising 100% cotton product I found was Aurifil. If you insist on an all natural product give this a try. Use the size 50 wt, 40wt, and 28 wt. Stay away from the 12wt thread. Its expensive and is too fuzzy. But the other smaller sizes are pretty good. Over the last few months I have bought and tried every commercial source because my current supplier has raised their prices by 40%. So the market at least in the US is getting tough. Import taxes have killed this cotton/linen non-synthetic product. Its mostly made in Europe. You can buy Anchor crochet thread in Europe however. It used to be very good. Dont know if they also stopped making some sizes. Its put out by DMC as well, but not available in the US. I have contracted with another custom MFG of threads, this time in Upsate NY. You tell them what you want and they make it. Core spun..Mercerized.....what percentage of cotton.....what percentage of poly ....what color pantone swatch to dye it, etc. Unfortunately you must order a ton of it as usual. They said their straight up cotton or linen will be fuzzy too!!! Samples proved this was the case. So I have ordered a cotton/poly test run in four sizes. So far the results are excellent. Here is an example of my first test with the stuff where I developed the recipes to make all the rope sizes I need to offer. No fuzz.....it feels more natural than pure POLY like Gutterman. It doesnt unravel at all. So I may switch to using this "Syren" Brand thread or at least offer both in the near future. I sent Rusty some to test on his Longboat project. We shall see. So for the time being I am sticking with my current supplier.
  15. I could always cut you some the size you need. Just contact me via PM and we can figure out how large they need to be scaled up to. Its a minor detail that will save you plenty of time indeed and they do work pretty well. Chuck
  16. Yes I believe that would be a step too far!!! Its mostly covered up and will also weaken the frames considerably in my opinion. I would guess they were nailed together.
  17. The fan doesnt matter.....its wider because now others can use it for projects that have more planks. Just use nine of the planks. I think you might be misunderstanding how the fan is used. Just cross them out with a pencil if its distracting.
  18. Yes you have some issues there. There are some wavy planks with inconsistent widths along their run. Did you divide all the frames equally? It looks like there are some very unequal spots.....that will be very problematic if you didnt have pre cut planks.
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