Chuck

Guys Just found this topic. That is NOT Laserboard. Its just a company using the "nickname" for what laser cutters call "lsaserboard. Laserboard is basically resin soaked kraft paper. It is specifically designed for use as the backer for kitchen cabinets and veneers, etc. It is sold in huge rolls and 4 x 8 sheets. There are other backers available commercially BUT they are made with some nasty stuff that is poison. It has some nasty chemicals usually. But this one Brand does NOT have those chemicals (formaldehyde) that could kill you when you laser cut it. Before I tell you the Brand Name....let me say that it is almost impossible to get unless you are a cabinet maker or contractor. It took me years to find a supplier and basically I get the scraps from this cabinet maker whenever he fills up a box with the stuff. The Brand Name is "polybak". It is wildly successful and used by model railroaders....but for whatever reason it has NOT found acceptance by ship model MFGs. At least not yet. As far as I know I am the only one who uses it. Probably because its so hard to find. You cant order just one sheet. You need to order a ridiculous number of 4 x 8 sheets or a 250 pound roll of the stuff. It comes in varying thicknesses but mostly its really thin. The different sizes and colors have different properties depending on the commercial use it is being used for. Here is the MFG's website. They dont sell direct to the public. There are very few distributors.....because in the industry most cabinet makers will buy the cheaper stuff because even though its NOT a danger to them. It is a real danger to laser cutters. http://www.richwoodind.com/polybak.html Laser cutters affectionately refer to this material as laserboard BUT recently that other company decided to use the name for its completely different and thicker material which has now added to the confusion. The best way to find this stuff is to contact local cabinet makers or veneer makers and CONFIRM that it is Polybak and NOT another material that could kill you if you laser cut it. Then beg for scraps. Unless you can find a distributor that will sell you one or two 4 x 8 sheets. Chuck

Back by overwhelming request. I am re-stocking 2mm scale rope at Syren. I will make it in all for colors. Shown below is my 2mm light brown and tan colors.....the bottom photo shows light brown and dark brown. That is my favorite combination for standing and running rigging. This is very big rope and its super time-consuming to make. It is 4 strand rope with each strand also being 4 strand rope. The 2mm rope is all right hand laid and it is sold in 10 foot lengths per package. Super crisp.....NO LUMPS.....NO FUZZ!!! In stock now. Thank you for requesting this size be resurrected. https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/miniature-rope.php

Thank You for the kind words. Here are some of the details for those folks that are building Cheerful too. To finish the half of the sling that is on the yard, I served a length of .035 dark brown rope. Then I seized a thimble into one end. I only made a few wraps of the thread when I seized it and then snipped off the loose end so it sticks out just a tiny bit as shown below. The longer end was cut so the entire span was 2 3/4" long. Then the long end was brought up to the thimble and glued into position. The seam is hardly visible after it was glued. The two ends were carefully butt against each other as well as the edges glue to each other. Then I waited for it to dry thoroughly. You can use Yellow glue for this but use is straight because if you dilute it the joint wont be very strong....I suppose CA would work but I know that is frowned upon. Once dry, I served the remaining area below the thimble so it strengthened the joint. Then I carried the serving around the between the thimble and the split area as shown...just two wraps more as this also holds that splice joint together. Then a thinned wash of yellow glue was brush all over the siezing and allowed to dry. It was quite strong and did the trick nicely. You can see this portion of the sling placed on the lower yard. The same thing is done for the sling on the topsail yard but this time .025 dark brown rope was used. and the length was much shorter. This is an image of the lower yard fully set up with stirrups and horses. The brace pendants were set up for the fore and aft braces and the clue line blocks hung from the center of the yard. I used .025 dark brown rope for the stirrups and horses. The stirrups were wrapped three times around the yard and then the end with the eye in hung down the aft side. It was 11/16" below the yard and a simple eye seized on its end so I could run the horse through it. The stirrups also hang on the outside of the yard as opposed to the inside of the three wraps. Hope that makes sense. Also attached is a PDF of the yards and all the rigging as it differs a bit from the earlier plans that we made. All new plans have been updated to show this layout. The yards were a bit too long on my original drafting for the project. I have shortened them up based on some research but the diameter of each yard stays the same as it was noted originally. yards for cheerful.pdf And the completed topsail yard

That is looking sweet Rusty...nicely done and very cleanly modeled.

absolutely.....it works like a charm. But the results will vary depending on the thickness and type of tissue paper you use. Its really strong stuff also once sprayed.

Thanks guys. The flag was made from the tissue paper you use to pack a gift with. Its white....you can buy this stuff anywhere but this particular stuff is very thin. I dont have a brand because I literally went into some old boxes we use to wrap up Christmas presents and took some out of the box. But you should experiment with different brands and thicknesses. I basically use a jpg. image of the flag which has been sized in Microsoft word. You could skew your flag ahead of time in the program to make it easier to shape but I didnt do that. I just printed out the standard rectangle. First you print out the flag on normal paper so you can see where on the paper the flag will print. Then you carefully tape the tissue paper over that image on all four sides...the tissue paper being slightly larger than the flag. Then print the flag again after placing the paper in your printer again. Cut the flag free from the tissue paper after it dries. Cut it right along the edges with no white space showing. This next step is important. The tissue paper is so thin that the ink will soak through to the other side but NOT entirely. So the first thing you need to do is flip the flag over and spray the REVERSE side with some Krylon Matt fixative. Dont be afraid to spray too much. This will facilitate the ink soaking through to the back side further and it will look like it is literally printed on both sides. Then after it dries flip it over and spray the front side. Shape it to suit with various size dowels. You can also spray the fixative more to really soak it because this makes it easier to shape...you can do this several times if need be. Once dry it holds its shape. Then I poke a hole with a sharp awl in the two corners so I can lash it to the flag halliard. Done!!! Hope that explains it well.

I know I am going a bit in reverse here, but I managed to rig the yards and complete all of the rigging today. I will have more detailed photos as I sort them out but since I havent posted in a while I thought I would show the model as it stands now. All that remain to be done are the anchors and buoys and the entry way stanchions. Plus a little clean up. But I still try to sneak in some model time even though it has been crazy nuts lately. The yards were made from square stock....taken to octagon and then the outsides tapered and rounded off. Once painted black the blocks and stirrups and horses were added along with the other half of the sling. The same was done to the topsail yard. I will have plenty of more detailed images of the rigging once Mike drops by with his camera. He doesnt know this yet but I plan on asking him to help me photograph this stuff. Photographing rigging with a point and shoot is impossible. Anyway here are the photos. The flag is just a test and I am living with it for now as I try new things. I like it but I dont know how much. Its printed on tissue paper for wrapping gifts with my inkjet. Then its sprayed thoroughly with flat clear fixative. It is soaked pretty good and molded before it completely dries. This stiff may be too thin though...but lets see what others think once they see it in person. It does shape nicely with various size paint brush handles.

Restored log.

I mostly see Swiss pear and pear sold as slabs. It isnt impossible to get 8/4 or even 12/4 stock but its not easy. Try calling Gilmer. They have great stuff and if you dont see it on their site they probably still have more on the premises. https://www.gilmerwood.com/categories/38-boards-and-blanks/products?utf8=✓&filter=Pearwood&category= Chuck

Merged final installment of the new replacement log.....enjoy!!! Please be careful around the delete button this time around please, LOL.

I would do exactly that but time is precious lately. That mention to send a PM for help was meant for any other folks in the future. It would be easier to for me to just ask specifically what a member wants and then tell them what to click off. I just think posting all that here would clog things up in this topic. I am trying hard to help everyone I can, and make the site enjoyable for them. Chuck

Eric....any updates on your stream creation?

very nice and thank you for recreating the log.

Eric....for example I just created a new default stream for what I think you want.....I have the same selections available as you do and it seams to be working fine. I think you were clicking the wrong filter setting options when setting yours up. But check it out under activity.....is this what you were trying to do?? If it is...just make it your default. NOW I cant set up a million default streams because everyone uses the site differently..... So rather than post a very specific issue here while getting frustrated.......just send me a PM and tell me what you want your current stream to do and i will tell you what boxes to check etc. It all works very well if the correct selections are made.

That wouldnt exactly be fair either....increasing the price for US members to overcharge for shipping as a way to subsidize international members not willing to pay for shipping. Its just a matter of waiting for the electronic version....You cant expect others to subsidize international shipping. Its just not right.

You are selecting all the wrong settings for what you expect to acheive. When creating a custom stream make sure you select the correct "content type". This should have only the "topics"selected. Under "show me" make sure its just "content" that is clicked. I could go on... Then when viewing it.....you can make it the default version which will display on the top right of the screen and it wont be buried. It will be there right on the top. Other than that you will just have to adjust. Also as mentioned.....the condensed version after viewing makes a huge difference. I can also set up a new default stream for content that you posted to. If that is something more than just one or two people use.

Picture perfect indeed. Well done!!!

Just read the thread from the beginning....I enhanced the many times it was answered.

Click on that custom stream and to the right of the stream name one of those icons will let you delete it.

No its not showing........Once again.........it is not showing.

Yes. Only you and the staff can see your own number.

It doesnt matter. Technically you are a member of both. In fact its more accurate your way. There are probably many NRG members who are not members of MSW and by checking both it lets folks know you are actually members for both. It fine. Thank you for doing so.

As I mentioned.....an electronic version is coming at some point soon But as it stands currently, no. Think about the membership numbers if we were to just save the journal as a PDF and send it out without any protections. One guy becomes a member and gets a PDF and then emails it to all the folks he knows in his local club or here on MSW for free. Membership in the NRG would take a big hit. So they are working on a more traditional and official electronic magazine subscription type thingy. Its coming!!! But I dont know too much about the details and Kurt or Toni can probably elaborate when they get more info together and closer to enacting. But that is for another topic and another day.

Well done....excellent reference for casting cannon. I also find that sometimes air gets trapped int the trunnion pin of the molds even when vented. But a good solution I found was to make the trunnion much longer as the air seems to be trapped on the extremities of the pin mostly. Making the pin about 1/8" longer on each side does the trick. Then you can just cut them off to the proper length before you use them. Chuck

Its from when you sign up......the day/month you sign up.