Chuck

I will have to look into that......I am now using Corel Photo now and I imagine they have the same features. Thanks

This was my feeble attempt on Syren. these are individual stamped and overlapped plates.

The hull is also NOT broken into two or three bands like some do.....this is also true of the Bellona model that shows contemporary plates on a model. I believe that is a much later application and if you are building a 1770-1790ish model one belt like this is more appropriate. The plates more or less follow the run of planking.......beautiful....insnt it? I plan to plate Winchelsea. I had a flood a few years ago that wrecked the planking. After fixing it I am not real happy with it so the plating of the hull should fix that. The alert was the first ship plated and it would be great to show this sister ship with plates.......I will be replicating the plates on this contemporary model as best I can.

Thanks but when you stay f-stop....these cameras are dumbed down now and they dont call it that in the settings. What would it be?

Thanks guys... Yes Erik it is tough to photograph. My simple point and shoot digital really distorts the images. It gives that slight "fish bowl" effect around the perimeter and bends the image. I am going to see if one of the guys in my club has a better camera. I will take some photos with it to see if it improves. I do like Mikes pictures and will ask him to bring his camera to the next workshop session at my shop. We meet every month at my place to work on models together. Its really great fun.

What you are looking at here are photos of a contemporary model (Minerva). A rare example of copper plates made for a model and its contemporary. If I remember correctly these plates were put on the hull with actual small nails....thousands of them. Wish I had better pictures but these are the best I have close up of the plates.

Very nicely done.

Today I finished the standing rigging. Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay. Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans, I did not rig them. I just wanted to show what they would look like. Only under rare conditions were they used. I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty. So I decided to follow suit. I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing. Next up I will start the running rigging. Its getting close!!!!

Those are just extra pieces.....just in case. The glue choice is up to you...whatever is more comfortable for your pace and work habits. Yes glueing those pieces across the bulkheads is a great idea.

That looks very good.

Thats a great method Druxey...thank You for that. And thank you all for the nice comments and likes.

Thank You guys. Right you are Greg....Yes the outside shrouds are indeed square knots. My bad for that omission I will go back .and add that to the post to avoid confusion.

I am still thinking about it....it will hit me sooner or later.

I added the sheer pole. It is lashed to the outside of the shrouds above the deadeyes. I painted it black but it could have been left natural also. It is just a 1/32" x 1/32" strip with the edges rounded off a bit. Then I started the ratlines with .012 rope. You dont want to go heavy with these. The outside shrouds are simple square knots. But I used clove hitches on each inside shrouds. I urge folks to use them rather than simply tie a knot on all four shrouds. The lines hang much better. Its easy to do. I used a card with both horizontal lines and lines to show the shrouds. Its not enough to just use horizontal lines. Having the shrouds drawn on the card will make it easier to watch your progress. You dont want to gradually pull the shrouds in. That hourglass shape for shrouds on a model is the kiss of death. This helps you keep them straight and not pull them in as you progress. I found it better to leave the ratlines a little loose rather than pull them tight and I try to shape them after its done. Only some watered down white glue was applied on the knots of the outer shrouds only. The two inner shrouds have no glue at all. I waited until a series of rows were complete so I could adjust them before adding the glue. You can also see that I finally cut off all the loose ends at the belaying points after re-tensioning the lines and I added rope coils to the belaying points. Now its time to start the ratlines on the starboard side. Yay for me. Merry Christmas everyone!!! Chuck

The longboat is not a beginner kit. Keep that in mind. Its rated as intermediate but I would consider no good for beginners. Dont let the price fool you. Less expensive doesnt equate to easy. Just smaller. I would say that planking the smaller vessels like the lonboat is in fact advanced rather than intermediate. Chuck

Well done....the pint job looks good and so does the caulking seams.

Barge instructions to date for those that are interested. Click here

I like it a lot. Its a little light for my taste but not too bad. I am hoping it darkens a bit with age. The gluing was no problem. Both CA and carenters glue/titebond. No issues at all.

The Alaskan Yellow Cedar barge has been planked. Still lots to do on this one. I havent even faired the hull inboard yet. But before the molding and red paint is added I thought this would give you guys a nice idea of how the yellow cedar looks. I have just applied some wipe on poly. You can see the cherry version behind it. They are actually the exact same size but digital cameras do these funny things.... I would like to get the cedar version to the same point as the cherry version so I can progress with both simultaneously. All the cedar is wood project source Chuck

I just finished laser cutting the Yellow cedar he dropped off yesterday. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is such a wonderful wood to laser cut. The parts are for a second barge I am building which will be made entirely out of the yellow cedar. I hope to have pictures real soon but I am really enjoying working with it. If you are looking for a light golden/yellow wood that is easy to work with I do recommend you give the yellow cedar a try. The top board has some Wipe on Poly on the end. It makes teh color come out nicely. I should have the planking done this weekend so you guys could have a better look at teh stuff as part of a model. Chuck

Maybe...but for right now this is all I have time to create.

Thank you very much.... See this topic for mounting........ http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14432-getting-startedmounting-your-carving-blanksand-removing-them-when-finished/

Thats the confederacy...

Absolutely......they dont even need to be thin walled. I have made thimbles and flared regular brass tubing that was 1/8 or 3/32" in diameter with no trouble at all. Brass is very soft. Just buy any K&S brass tube and you can do it with the right sizes blunt punch. See this http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Confed/Chapter12.pdf Read pages 3 and 4. Chuck

Buy larger brass tubing....