Chuck

That looks great!!! Well Done

Thank you for saying....

Looking fantastic.

Because much is being discussed about how kits and other projects are produced, I thought I would continue to share bits about my philosophy as I develop these two new kits. As I mentioned in one of those other topics, It is an absolute must to have a good set of plans and a good set of instructions. Not everyone is at the same level of skill. What might be second nature for some is not so clear to others. There are so many details and build sequences that Cad Drawings and pans can NOT convey effectively on their own. I am not talking about writing a book....nothing like a 300 page thing that so many desire....for heaven's sake....buy a book on the subject in addition to the kit. Instead, just enough to guide folks along but obviously more than the usual kit instructions we have all grown to hate so much. As the first installment gets off the ground for this kit, I write the instructions for it. Then I pass them along to the individual building the prototype with me. If this person has a hard time following what I have written and cant build the model, then I failed. But luckily I get tons of feedback from the prototype builder telling me what he would need or what he didnt understand. Or If I should make wording changes or add additional pictures or drawings to make it clearer. It is priceless to have this feedback....I think its a huge disservice to just produce the project and release it without this feedback. It doesnt cost anything because the folks I use are my dear friends and they actually get to build a model for free. They probably would have bought it afterwards anyway...so why not be the first and build it alongside me. Not only do they tell me if the pieces dont fit properly....but the feedback on the instructions and plans will ultimately help all of the people building it too. Here is a look at the level of detail I am talking about....I cant write a book...because you would have to pay me the price of an actual book. I cant write 50 pages on the history of Barges....these are just instructions, but very thorough instructions none-the-less. Hopefully anyway!!! PDF below...unedited and before getting any feedback. They will certainly change before the project is released. Shallop one.pdf

Thanks I wont be changing the scale because too much is involved. But I will be making some in boxwood or pear as a custom order. Having said that, these will be much more $ of course. I will figure out the costs when the project is completed.

I have no timeline. I dont like to rush my projects as you guys probably noticed. So whenever it gets done it gets done. I wish I could give you a better answer but its just the way I work. I am a very slow builder and designer. No installments will be released this time until after the entire model is completed. It shouldnt take long!!! LOL Famous last words right?

Yes...no worries. There will be plenty of extras as most of you know I try to include for parts like this. In addition, after I complete my own carvings, I will cast them and offer a complete resin package as an aftermarket kit option. This is for the folks who wouldnt want to even try it...BUT I WOULD STRONGLY ENCOURAGE EVERYONE TO AT LEAST TRY IT. You might just surprise yourself.

Yes....but not as easy as just clicking a button. Which most would assume. After resizing the templates in the drafting software (the easy part)....the laser settings will then have to be adjusted to reflect the proper speed and power settings for the smaller thickness in wood. Depending on the parts, they also may need some tweaking to adjust for the larger kerf size in relation to the smaller part size (ie the carved decorations). Plus the five or six more elaborate carvings are being done as resin castings. I cant expect folks to scratch carve those so masters will need to be made for those. So there are plenty of hours of work needed to do it correctly for the best results. But once its done the first time, its done and all parts can easily be run as quickly as the 1/2" scale versions. But its still weeks of work. After all that there are other considerations. This design concept works well for 1/2" scale. BUT Lets consider that the frames are 1/16" thick at this scale. Reducing them to 1/4" scale means using 1/32" thick stock. Or at a minimum, going with 3/64" for strength. I think using 1/32" thick frames for this design construction method would not work as the frames would be much to fragile. So once you start altering those thicknesses...it means more alterations for the parts templates and it just snowballs from there. To simply reduce everything by 50% without thinking it through would be a disaster. I know some other folks think its easily done and have talked about it in other threads. In my opinion its not as simple and a bit fantasy actually. Depending on the subject of course. Decisions would need to be made that may reduce its historical accuracy for MFG purposes or depending on the scale, a entirely different construction concept might be a better way to go. Lots to consider. I hate to be the fantasy killer to all those folks discussing the possibilities of kit production in that other topic. But its a little naive in my opinion. For most subjects anyway.

Nope. Just the kit. Either in installments or as one complete unit. The plans will of course be in the first installment along with the frames, keel parts and build-board. Chuck

Thank you guys. Yes an intermediate builder can do this. Those are the folks this project is directed towards. As far as making the kit in parts.....I am torn. It will either be a complete kit....OR A complete kit sold in three installments. I am trying to work all that out as the prototype gets underway. I am waiting on planking material as we speak. Once it arrives it will get into high gear. Chuck

Just wanted to give all of you a more detailed look at what the new Queen Anne Style Royal Barge project will look like. You are looking at the preliminary draft for the plans. A PDF is below for a more detailed look. I am not worried about theft because there are no laser cut parts or templates shown on this sheet. I removed those. As the project and prototype gets built, more details will be added to aid the builder. Including those parts which were removed as theft prevention. This is why it is so important to have someone else build the project before its released. They will give me feedback on what additional views and parts would be helpful to include on the plan sheets. And when its completed they should be quite detailed....even though I think what is shown is probably already detailed enough for most folks. As you can see. This sheet includes many views of the model at various stages of its construction so those elements can be more easily seen. This includes a planking expansion on the bottom of the sheet. With the plans fully developed all that is left to do is build the prototypes....two of them. Make adjustments...Update and embellish the plans where needed...write the instructions.....and then start on packaging and production. This will include making all laser cut parts, cast decorations...and wood decorations. The model will be nearly 19" long and 3 1/2" wide at 1/2" scale. It will very closely resemble the contemporary model pictured. Let me know if you have any questions. Chuck queenannebargeplanmsw.pdf

The sizes arent based on looks and instead based on factual data and tables....whatever you decide to go with its fine...but it will be much too large historically speaking. Again its just my opinion....but rather than just try three sizes of blocks and 4 sizes of rope for the tackles willy-nilly. It is best to refer to the historical tables and contemporary sources for rope sizes. Basically they used 6" blocks...give or take, depending on the size of the gun. And the appropriate sized rope for a 6" block which in my opinion is around 1" to maybe 1 1/4". I suppose you could maybe go as large as .018 rope for the tackles but its pushing it to the higher end of the spectrum.

It looks OK but I will say that at that scale the rope you are using for the gun tackles is way, way too thick and out of scale. At this scale the blocks for the tackles would have been 6" long which translate to 3/32" blocks. The rope for the tackles would need to be .012 at the largest. Its just way too heavy. to have anything larger than that in my opinion. I would also go with .035 rope for the breech lines. But thats just my opinion for rigging those guns at 1:64 scale. Here is a photo of Cheerful guns at 1/4" scale using 1/8" blocks for the tackles and .012 rope. The breech line is .035. At 3/16" scale I wouldnt go much larger than that. Again its just an observation and my opinion. The best method to use .012 rope on the smaller blocks like 3/32" is to first stiffen the end of the rope with some white glue. Once it dries, cut the end of the rope on an angle to make it into a point like a needle. It should be stiff and sharp afterwards. It will slide through the holes in the 3/32" blocks just fine. Another alternative is to use a needle threader. No stiffening required. But I dont find that necessary as long as you can handle the small blocks in your fingers comfortably. Hope this helps. Chuck

Thank You so much.....I will hopefully be back at it this weekend after I finish restocking blocks and rope. Chuck

I dont think so Antony....this is the 1700 version. That one was kind of easy to figure out. Unless I am not understanding what is wrong with the one posted. Can you elaborate? If I understand it correctly as a Yank.....before Ireland became part of the united Kingdom there were fewer bars in the flag and its the same top and bottom.

Thank You...its so very confusing and contradicts other dates and standards. Maddening really. You think it would be very cut and dry what years these things were used. So many sources have different dates and different images for these. I am going with number 4.

Thank you very much.....That is great information. I guess either one would work but since this will be billed as a Queen Anne Style Royal Barge I will go with that one. There will be a bust of Queen Anne on the transom. So its a perfect fit.

Thank you very much guys....its tough to look at so many variations of these....its like playing...."one of these things is different than the others" when you were a little kid. As you can see this is not one of the choices I selected before....LOL. It will go at the bow with the union jack in the middle.

But which one.....its so darn confusing and I thought there might be some English chaps that know for certain. Searching the web and researching in some books I have come across so many examples. I dont want to pick the wrong one or maybe they are all right...who knows. Lots of flags out there and its bloody confusing which one would be correct. What I am trying to prevent is after buying or making a few hundred of these for a kit, that an MSW member with the expertise needed tells me I used the wrong one. I am trying to avoid that and figured I would ask those with the knowledge up front. The English love their flags,,,they have a flag for almost everything and it changes all the time. There surely must be someone on this forum that has an in depth understanding of all this..."Fun with flags"

Thanks guys...But I need help with a flag suggestion. Both kits are seeing some progress. I am now trying to determine what flags to include. I know one will be the Union Jack but I m at a loss to what the other should be. She is a typical Royal Barge circa 1700. I would appreciate any feedback on the secons flag for suggestions. Chuck

I am working on creating a simple group/class for carving a very simple design. Stay tuned. I will be presenting it to my local club first to see how it goes and then I will present here. More details will follow shortly. This is a short term project I think many will enjoy.

As long as a topic about what we do as developers doesnt evolve into a sales pitch I am all for it should the membership be interested and have questions. I would also welcome the "big boys" as you call them to participate although I think that isnt the true picture. Many of these companies.......Admiralty Models, Caldercraft, Bluejacket, Maristella, Dusek, Seawatch Books included, are not the big boys. They are still very small by most business standards and are Mom and Pop type operations with sales NOT in the millions annually. Hardly considered big business like some older more established companies like Model Shipways, Amati, or Corel and others. Although I may be mistaken. The true definition...if you are in business with under 2 employees you are a micro business.....with up to 50 employees a small business etc. But to preserve this topic as a way to allow our members to communicate their wish lists and preferences for subject, price points and materials..... I still ask that no commercial folks post here. Having said that, if our membership wants a topic where they can ask our sponsors some kit development questions or respond to other inquiries and see a slice of what the development process looks like and costs....let me know by replying here and I will start one. I am just hesitant because I dont want it to be a big commercial or very sales oriented topic. Or for one or more such companies to monopolize the conversation. All of our operations are probably very different. Same is true probably for our business philosophy. It may be better for each dealer to just set up their own topic here..... There is really nothing preventing any vendor right now from starting a topic in the traders and dealers section right know detailing what it takes to start and finish a particular project. Sort of what Maristella has started here (topic) but he hasnt gone into costs and differnt things. Its his choice. I have already started one for Syren here....kind of...I would be more than happy to discuss any aspect of my development process and philosophy...as well as costs/challenges. I think the topic already contains such questions from our members. I am not adverse to talking about it in more detail either...just pose the question in my topic. So I guess what I am saying Dave....is that it may be better to just create a stand-alone topic for the Lumberyard rather than have a mish-mash of commercial gobly-gook in one large topic. Just my two cents. So feel free to start your own. Currently I have found this topic fascinating....for my area of expertise..(not sail to steam, not POF) Preference for complete kits of frigates and ships 1750-1840ish as described by many....POB ..1/48 scale or 1/64....with better materials.....huge detailed instructions with crisp Hi res photos in color....high end fittings and not the usual crap...better rope and blocks....all for what has been averaged out to around $200-$500. Dont make a ship already available as a kit......plenty of particular ships mentioned so thats not an issue. That is a tall order. There are a few willing to pay more but most are not....we are talking years to develop each project and thousands invested in that development. I probably should have opened up a pizza parlor instead. I would not have gained that info had this topic been over run by input from the developers. The same is true if the topic was watered down by having a similar topic competing with it, because some developers are chomping at the bit to get into the conversation. So yes, Dave, feel free to start a stand alone Lumberyard topic. As the info I am getting must continue to be collected un- abridged. It is just too valuable to muck-up. For me anyway. And feel free to also comment in my topic as I will feel free to comment in the Lumberyards. I think it will give everyone a lot of insight into our individual operations. And we developers will have a lot to gain from talking to each other in our various individual topics. I am sure we can all help each other move the hobby forward by letting folks know about our challenges commercially. Again, I am sorry for going off track here a bit.

Nicely done!!!

A group on an intro to carving would be great......that subject might be a little advanced and intimidating...but maybe say this. As it is applicable to the carved work in bas relief that is common on many period ship transoms and trail boards.

Well right now I am just trying to muster up enough interest in any subject. Doesnt seem to be going well. Plus Dave and others are missing the point with the fitting group projects. It doesnt matter that there are instances where a capstan is made in a build log. There is no duplication....... The idea is that a group of folks may want to try and build a typical capstan correctly and choose the same subject plan/or primary source. Then build it TOGETHER while sharing ideas for how best to accomplish the task. For example...see the wonderful model below. With your line of thinking ....which I think is flawed, one can say that there are currently so many Hahn scratch build logs underway that there is no good reason to start a group for one. It would be a duplication of effort and redundant. There has been so much written about his method....and tried before, that it would not be worthy of a group. But ......because you folks missed the whole point about ..."group" and "together" "building the same subject" "from the same plans together" .....I think a Hahn group would be a good idea and so would any project as a group who wanted to try and build any subject as a study and exercise in technique or for any other reason. This includes any current kit on the market. It doesnt have to be a special project designed new...or by a commercial entity specifically for the purpose of using it in a group..... It can be a group build entirely from scratch.....buy a copy of any plan available....OR you can collectively choose to start a group building teh M.Shipways kit for the Armed Virginia Sloop....It doesnt matter how over done it is...as long as members of the group will get something out of it....learn together and progress there hobby adventure. A group of brand new model builders getting together to build a simple kit as a group will absolutely be of benefit to them in the long run. It is easier to "learn" as group than on your own....sometimes....and for specific people who prefer additional input and support. A group project for making sails is an EXCELLENT idea....a plan of any sail can found easily enough....that same plan can be used by many folks to make a sail....imagine, some trying different materials.....others trying different techniques. All to produce the same sail. It would be so valuable to have that data in one place for everyone after the group has completed. Excellent suggestion. But someone has to take the lead and get it organized.....find that plan and find 6-8 people ready to get started. That would be an invaluable resource to have for everyone. AND it wont be a project that takes years to complete....and you can participate while still working on any current projects. Frank gets it.....that is whole point of a group learning experience.