Chuck

That looks excellent.....well done.

That is looking great Ben.....Everything seems back on track.

Thats a lot port lids....way more than are needed. Remember that not every port gets a lid. Only 7 per side. Chuck

You cant use auto trace...its just not accurate. It also creates too many nodes in your lines. Unfortunately there are no shortcuts and these "quick-fix" auto functions are just a way to do the job quickly and rather sloppily. The only way you will be able to really do an accurate job is to import the image and trace over it while making corrections yourself. Then as Druxey said, use diagonals and waterlines to fair and correct your traced lines. It is a very time-consuming process but its the only way you will be sure its correct before you start making sawdust. I usually import an image and scale it to whatever the scale is I am working on...say 1:48. But others find it easier to make the drawing full size so they can use the real measurements from Steele or a builders contract. I use Corel Draw X8. It works great and once you become proficient with using the dozen or so tools and functions needed it goes well. You can use small tricks and methods to speed up the process. I have taught several people over the phone how to use CD and in person. I can usually get them to the point where they can work on their own with good results in just a few hours. But they must understand lofting and fairing and ship design before they start using the software or the lack of architectural knowledge usually does them in. Its easy enough to learn the software....much more difficult and time consuming to learn and understand how draft frames and proof out and fair your lines, along with adding all of those important details not shown on an original draft or simple plan original. In the image posted above for example, you can see the original draft I will begin drafting and tracing over. Also added to the workspace is an image of a similar contemporary model. This is also scaled up to the same size as the draft. Rather than flip back and forth to a photo on a different file or on paper, having the photo right above my work is an excellent and convenient reference. I can quickly examine the contemporary model for features not shown on the draft or incorporate and design my parts to mimic those on the model. For example, I can quickly use the model to design the joints between the stem and keel to closely mirror that models construction because its right above my workspace and not shown on the draft. I usually have many more draft copies and photos in my workspace than shown here but this is how I work up a set of plans....once at a pont to fair the frames or correct inaccuracies in the draft I can hide those images while I create my own half-breadth plan or whatever third view I need to prove out my lines. I use waterlines and diagonals to correct my frames while creating my own Half breadth view from the body plan and sheer plan I traced. Chuck

Very nice....that is exactly how I will show the oars for my Royal Barge.....it looks great.

If not out at sea, the loose ends are belayed to a cleat which would be convenient. But if out at sea, the boom would need to swing freely so many contemporary models have the two loose ends belayed to the boom itself. This is also shown on many contemporary paintings as well like the ones shown.

Thank You very much!!!

Really nice planking job....I think you found the sweet spot and wont have difficulty planking anything in the future. Well done!!!

Thank You very much I basically use a lot of simple square knots. I try not to complicate things. Half the battle is using the right sized line. As soon as time allows I will try and put something together. Chuck

Here you go....if you can find an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of self adhesive label paper I recommend using that. It makes things a lot easier. I know you only need one sheet but for future projects it worth the investment. You can buy self adhesive paper that is micro thin on ebay.....25 sheets per pack. longboatfreizes.pdf

Nicely done Mike.....only a few more to go.

I am about to make the two yards for Cheerful and the center of each is eight sided. So I am going to start with a square stick and then turn it into an Octagon. I will round off the ends and taper them afterwards. I am using the 7/10/7 template to mark the stick so I can create the eight sided shape. When I was preparing my square stock I thought that everyone would probably benefit from the template I am using and created. It will save you time so you dont have to make one. Attached is a PDF template that is prepared with the correct ratios. I have been using it all along to make the masts and other spars. Its a very handy template to have. seventenseven.pdf Chuck

Beautifully done....it is refreshing to see some progress. I missed the updates.

Its really not a fair question. It depends on what you will be satisfied with in the end result. The old motto is true...."you get what you pay for". You can spend 5 bucks for a chisel or you can spend $150 for a better one. My guess is you will not be happy with the $5 chisel and will end up throwing it away. You can spend $30 for a bandsaw blade or $225. Etc. Etc.... You get what you pay for. This hobby is certainly not going to allow you to build models like this one below for $200 - $300. Its an expensive hobby once it grabs hold of you. It just depends on what you will be satisfied with in the end. Again its not really a fair question because some folks are willing to invest much money (if they can) and much time tobuild a model like this....but many are just as satisfied with a less ambitious result. If you are going to spend $1000 bucks on something that will take you maybe three years to complete I would say that is a very reasonable and inexpensive hobby. How many people spend just $335 dollars a year on a hobby for decent results. Especially if its something that will give you years of pleasure and enjoyment. I know guys that drop 100's every month bowling on a league......for me its just not worth it. I think that kind of money is better spent on ship modeling is.....so again....its not really a fair question. It more about how much do you really want it. You spend money on what you are passionate about and everyone is different.....I spent 200 dollars on a cheap saw once because I couldnt afford a good one. It was a terrible decision. Finally I saved enough to buy a Byrnes saw and it makes the hobby much more enjoyable. And that saw will last me a lifetime while the cheaper one was good for nothing out of the box.

They look fantastic. Well done.

Its pretty straight forward....I am sure you could find either someone who has done that to this kit or even look at the NMM site. They have sailplans listed. But maybe someone who has done this already will share their templates. I never made any because it was not called for at the time when in development. see this topic http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13442-sail-design-for-18th-century-longboat/ Chuck

Its really a VERY simple answer. Dont Use the Ancre plans at all. Dont use the Ancre drawings at all . You can learn a great deal from those books as a reference and source of inspiration but rather than replicate them and adding more to them....simply pick a 74 gun ship other than those from a plan by La Charpente....get the original drafts of a similar 74 and draft your model plans from them, using the knowledge you have gleaned from the Ancre books and other sources while avoiding any copying/duplication at all. Thus you will have created an original Kishmul set of plans that are entirely your own. Otherwise you would be really walking a thin line ....If you have the knowledge and skill to fill in the blanks that are missing from someone elses efforts....then certainly you would also have the chops to not use someone elses efforts as a starting point, and instead...simply flush out a whole new project from A thru Z ......rather than take A thru M from someone else and then supplement with your own N thru Z. Chuck

A few more pictures in this article that are all about this model. Enjoy English Brig of War.pdf

Maybe...but as you can see by the photos it really isnt needed...they cleaned up real nice and look even better in person...

Looking great Rusty....but dont ask me....I had a hard enough time deciding when I did them.

Thanks Allan Yes the traveler ring is not made from wire that is usually the case. It is made from 1mm brass tube. Its easier to use and looks better. You cut the rings like you would if you were using wire. Just wrap around a dowel and then cut with a saw. Then a small length of 24 gauge wire is inserted into the tube to close it up...you can push it pretty far into the tube so no solder is even required. But first you should slide your shackle and hook onto it and then close it up....those are also made from 24 gauge wire.

Al Unfortunately I cant add to an order already submitted. Its protection for you and your CC's are deleted immediately after the order is finalized. This is how the traveler ring looks after rigging it. The jibsail and foresail rigging is now completed. All that remains to rig are the two yards....once I make them. That will complete the rigging and then its the final stretch with a few additional details....anchors....flag....boarding ropes......and she is officially done.

That can be corrected easily....I wouldnt worry too much about it. Just start cutting planks slightly wider over the next few strakes. But dont correct it all in the next strake. Spread the correction over the next two or so and it wont be noticeable. Before you know it.....you will be back on your tick marks. Chuck

The club is meeting on the 14th at my place but anytime will work...we can work on those shrouds while I do some rigging on my Cheerful too!!! I set aside a traveler ring for you.

Mike You will have to show me when you drop by the shop. Today I am preparing to start the running rigging. The first thing I did was make all of the hooks and also prepare the traveler ring for the jib rigging. The traveler ring has both a shackle and a hook. A simple version is shown on the plans but I will be using the traveler ring available "ready made" at Syren Ship Model Company. It is ready to use right out of the package. It has a 3/8" inside diameter. They can be finicky things to make. Now if I only remembered to slip one of these on the bowsprit before I finished the standing rigging!!!! No worry though. I will be able to assemble one in place. Chuck