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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Chuck
    No thanks....I prefer to use my Uncle Pauly.... If someone posts something that is copyright...we are really good about that. We almost immediately remove it. I am not worried about that. Most folks are reasonable and after talking to the original author we would certainly remove it. Its folks stealing stuff that hard to deal with...But my uncle said its real easy....he starts with the pinkies. Chuck
  2. Chuck
    Thats not needed...most folks are good people. They wouldnt do those things. Those that would.....these types of agreements wouldnt matter. If you post anything on the internet...beware of where it may end up. Its really simple. There is no way to protect yourself from crooks and evil people. If you post any documents make sure you list your name and copyright. Other then that...posting is open for all that "suck" to do their selfish deeds. I have seen so many people ripped off (including myself) it is painful. But those that are caught will be banned immediately from this site. Chuck
  3. Chuck
    Thank you and yes...link away. I shall be adding more today. Chuck
  4. Chuck
    Nope...I can only do so much. Chuck
  5. Chuck
    So your saying that they are not the ones I pictures above??? Those are a perfect fit. Perfect scale and match what a carronade for that period should look like. They are not 42 pounders. they were real tiny 24's. But to each is their own. There was never a screw in the casting...you have to make that part of the carronade assembly. But there could have been shrinkage when they spin cast it. Sorry...but they matched my plans perfectly when I cast them in resin. Send it back Chuck
  6. Chuck
    That looks absolutely fantastic. Wonderful work. Chuck
  7. Chuck
    That unfortunately wont happen. I wish they would though.
  8. Chuck
    Thank you for the kind words Ben....I see one of these kits in your future......
  9. Chuck
    Yes...see the link from Jays post above. http://www.woodcraft...px?query=stains
  10. Chuck
    To finish up the hull before the rigging starts, I added the windless. It was cut from square stock but then shaped with eight side in the center and the ends. The two portions that remained square had some holes in them for the windlass handles. These are actually square holes. After drilling round ones, I made them square by inserting a nail that had a pointy end that was square. Pushing it into the round holes reconfigured them as square with a little coaxing. Handles were cut to length and shaped as shown. There were some knees on the sides of the hull which were cut from 1/32" thick stock. They were positioned on top of the thwarts and against the cap rail. The rudder was cut to shape following the plans and tapered as per typical practice. It narrows considerable as it works aft. It was painted and the frieze details added. The hinges (pintles and gudgeons) are just paper. Then the horse and oarlocks were completed with some black wire. That finishes teh hull and its now onto the masting and rigging. I found this particularly enjoyable as its a simple rig. Chuck
  11. Chuck
    Thanks Pat...yes it was a fun build. I added the front for the locker in the cockpit next. Then I spaced the thwarts according to the plans. The thwarts had scribed grooves down each side as the NMM model showed. The center thwart also has a different shape. Its wider overall and is shaped in the center to support the mast. Around the mast are four belaying pins I turned from boxwood by chocking them in my dremel. The iron work on this thwart was just paper strips. With all of the thwarts in position it was easy to determine the shape and size of the cockpit seats. The seats on each side were added first. Then a thin strip was added between them against teh transom. The locker lid was last to be added. The hinges are just stiff paper card painted black with a piece of wire to simulate the hinge pin.
  12. Chuck
    Looks great so far. I am so glad you are enjoying the kit. Please dont hesitate to ask me any questions. I have all of my prototype pictures and they are larger and in color. If you need to see any I would gladly post here. Chuck
  13. Chuck
    It was time to add some inboard details. The floorboards were first. These were pre-bent so they would lay against the bottom of the frames nicely. Then the two platforms were added. I glued some planks together edge-to-edge and then cut the proper shape using the plans as a guide. I simulated the caulking between the planks with a pencil so they could be seen better. The two platforms were notched along their sides to fit snug against the inboard planking and frames. The risers are the long timbers that stretch from bow to stern on the inboard sides of the hull. The thwarts (seats) will rest on these risers. It was important to make them the same height port and starboard so the seats werent noticeably crooked when I install them I nice detail on the risers was the addition of scribed grooves. This was shown on the NMM model so I included it. They were made by running a sharp awl down the timber with a steel ruler as a guide.
  14. Chuck
    Next up was to add the cap rail. I like to press a wood sheet against the model and trace the shape of the open hull. Then I add an extra 1/32" to account for the overhang outboard. Then i measure and draw another line inside of that one to create a pattern 1/8" wide or there-abouts. I cut it out on my scroll saw and glue it on. It looks awful at this stage. But then I go back and file the edges so they are uniform outboard and inboard. I tried to create a 3./32" wide cap rail or just a hair narrower than that. Finally the friezes were added. These were printed on my ink-jet after scanning my master. It was sparayed with some hairspray as a fixative. Once the friezes were in position I used the bottom edge of the paper as a guide to add a strip of 1/32 x 1/32' molding. Then it was time to paint. The inside was carefully painted as shown in the last few photos above. It was finally starting to look like a boat. Although I like the natural painted planking on the exterior, I thought I would try painting it tallow to match the NMM model. I think it ads some interest so i decided to keep that look although many might prefer to leave planking natural.
  15. Chuck
    Then it was time to file the center of each bulkhead free. I used a file rather than a saw because I found that the saw teeth pulled the wood and it split the top of the frame. Filing it with gentle pressure was easier for me. Then the inside of the hull was faired so the frames were quite thin. I noticed a lot of glue smears on the inside of the planking between the frames. This looked sloppy so I used a curved Xacto blade to scrape it clean. It really worked well. Then a coat of Wipe on Poly was brushed on.
  16. Chuck
    To start the planking, I added two strips on each side along the sheer. This stabilized the hull. It was pretty amazing how sturdy the whole thing got. Then I just continued down the hull with a few more. Then I switched directions and started adding them from the keel upwards. I met somewhere in the middle to finish the hull. The strips were pre-bent to fit the hull both edge-wise and to conform to the bow and stern shape. When it was all done, I added teh stern post. Then it was time to treenail. I treenailed the hull using some Elmers wood filler. To help keep the treenails lined up I used some tape. I ran the tape down the hull being careful to line up one edge on the center of a frame. This was a challenge but I could hold the hull up close to teh light and see through the planking. Then I marked the locations of all of the frames based on the shadows that shown through the planking. I drilled some tiny holes (#78 drill bit) and then filled them. After sanding the hull I applied some wipe on poly
  17. Chuck
    Roger!!!! So great to hear from you . I was actually trying to reach you so I could welcome you back. So happy you are posting some log images of your Syren. Wonderful news. Chuck
  18. Chuck
    Just use the upload feature here. It works a treat and its free. Chuck
  19. Chuck
    The second is no different than the first. I recommend lining off your hull as mentioned in several of the online articles here. Then shaping and spiling your planks to suit. That is truly the only way to do it properly. I would also add that using only the kit supplied planks might be a problem as you may have to cut your shaped planks from wider sheets of wood. Chuck
  20. Chuck
    Thats good news... here are some pics of the original and cast versions I sent them. And one all painted up. For replacements, just call them on teh phone and they will send you a new set for free. Dont use those crappy ones. I have no idea where they got them and they are the wrong size and wont fit. Chuck
  21. Chuck
    ...all books are sold through the Seawatch site from the US. Chuck
  22. Chuck
    You can still buy that book new...its $78 Euros. So used...depending on condition, about half the price. As far as your models....unless we had a list of what they are we couldnt say. Chuck
  23. Chuck
    Looks really good so far. Glad to see another Syren being built. Chuck
  24. Chuck
    Check out the tutorial here in the database for silver soldering. Chuck
  25. Chuck
    To start...the slotted false keel was tapered from the bearding line to the outside edge. This created a simulated rabbet once the two keel pieces were cut to shape and glued into position. Then the 16 bulkhead frames were added. I had these laser cut to save time. They were designed in a way that the center sections are removable. They are held to the frames by small tabs. Once the hull is planks I will file through the tabs and snap out the center sections. Care must be taken to square up the bulkheads with the keel and ensure they are straight so the the proper hull shape can be obtained. You could further stabilize the bulkheads by gluing a temporary batten across the tops of them which will be removed before I start filing the center sections free. But I am not a heavy handed builder so I just started fairing the hull immediately. I use d alight touch while beveling the outside edges of he bulkheads. The transom and bow fillers were added just prior to the start of planking.

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