Chuck

I can highly recommend the Laguna 14/BX. Its more than 2HP which makes it easy to cut through hardwoods at even 6" wide. I have used it without fail to resaw sheets from billets of wood. Yes its pricey but everything good is a bit more expensive. I have had mine for over 5 years if not more. https://lagunatools.com/classic/bandsaws/14bx-bandsaw/ There are lesser models with slightly less HP which would be fine if you are only cutting for yourself. The more HP was used to resaw sheets for sale and is used and abused. Chuck

Beautiful work...just lovely. Merry Christmas.

Nicely done. That frieze looks awfully washed out though. That was a test print hopefully. Chuck

Some work on the figurehead...

Very very nice Mike. They look perfect. I know how hard these can be. You did a fantastic job on those headrails. The grating and remaining headwork will be a breeze by comparison.

Work continues on the square frames....the assembly line is in full swing. Almost done with the Cad work on the carvings...I should have an update on my my frame progress soon.

nicely done. That is a tricky part for sure.

Looking really good!!! So nice when you get this stage. Each bit of progress makes a huge difference visually which helps keep you going.

Seriously Greg. That will be a hard act to follow. You need to post so many more photos. Be sure to add them to the gallery as well. I am still plugging away on square frames for my Speedwell. I have photos of yours all around my shop for inspiration. Just a lovely model.

Lovely paintwork.

Just sand the fuller down so it fits leaving a little lip. Even if you only have the slightest point of an edge it will be fine. You can also sand or chisel the planking a bit thinner too so you have even more area to work with. no big deal here…very workable

Not unless you already know it. If you have been there before you can click on the post number to go to just that post. Then you can save it to your favorites.

That is looking excellent Ben.

She really does look nice. Well done.

Absolutely beautiful. It was such a pleasure to follow your progress on this one. Such a nice model you have built there!!!

Nope...that is entirely wrong for Winnie...no sweep ports or extra wide wales. Please disregard that for Winchelsea. Yes the Southhampton has sweeps and was very different. It even had the old beakhead bulkhead at the bow. There are some beautiful drafts of that class available. But sadly no contemporary models. Check out the width of the wales. Chuck

That looks pretty darned good. Well done and worth the time and effort.

That looks so good. Superb. That is the perfect image to start off my day. Thank You for that.

Its looking very good....

Excellent work...it is a pleasure to watch your progress. The tiller is correct as far as the height shown on the plan. So you should absolutely stick with what is shown on those. The mast coat looks perfect.... Chuck

Thank you Greg

I really dont know......good question. Chuck

Thank You guys. I am going to try and get more frames done this weekend. But it will be slow going from this point forward. This is as boring and repetitive as making cannon carriages. But it has to be done. Chuck

Very nice...that rail was a challenge. But it was also a lot of fun to build. Chuck

The "SHORT SQUARE FRAMES"..... Basically these are built the same way as the taller square frames. They just dont extend all the way to the "jig" top that helps position the tall frames. These are the frames that fall where a gun port or sweep port are located. The "short frame" 2a is shown below. It does have a cross beam of sorts. This is used to help stabilize it and give it the correct shape. Notice how it is glued onto the bottom of little square protrusions on the inboard side of the frame. All of the short frames will have this cross piece. It will be removed after we plank the exterior of the hull much later in the project. You can build these as shown just like the other frames. Just make sure the stepped futtocks appear on the correct side of the frame when you glue them onto the keel. NOTE the blocks for the sweep port labelled 2a. These are made by gluing two laser cut layers together. Glue them together so the etched reference letters face each other. Dont glue these onto the frames yet. Just keep them ready to go once you glue the short frame onto the keel first. Dont forget to finalize the chocks by shaving off half of it....and when you glue them onto the keel make sure the "step" is facing the correct way....either fore or aft based on the plans. If you recall, we installed a bunch of the tall frames earlier. This left a bunch of open spots where the shorter frames will be installed. In this photo you can see a coupe of short frames I completed on the forward side so far. One has a sweep port and another has the lower gun port sill. There is another short frame which has been glued into position. It is frame 2a shown earlier. It was glued into the final spot I had ready for it between the two tall frames. Sitting on the top of the model you can see the two sweep port pieces which I will add next. I have already dry fit them in position. I had to sand a little off both sides to make it fit really nice without spreading the two frames apart on either side of it. You will notice some pencil lines that I drew on both sides of the sweep port blanks. While they were being test fit, I traced the shape of the frames on both sides of it so I have a reference. It makes sense to remove your test fitting of these and sand them close to those lines now before you glue them in position. It will save a lot of sanding when it comes time to fair the hull later. You dont have to get it perfect but try and chisel or sand these close to there finished shapes. You can see my pre shaped sweep port block for the starboard side. Once sanded...I glued them in position permanently. Be careful to check your framing plan. Make sure you have these oriented correctly and dont flip them. You want your sweep ports in the correct position after all. Use the provided templates to make sure all of the gun ports and sweep ports are in the correct position..at the correct height and spaced properly. These templates will be provided on the plans. This in combination with other means of measurement will really help ensure that your ports all end up where they are supposed to. The top of the template aligns with the sheer. The bottom of the template actually aligns with the top edge of the wales. The heights are most important for the ports and dont go nuts if your openings are a 1/64" to the left or right. It will all work out in the end. You can always fix slight issues before you start planking if you have to do some shifting. But I highly recommend that you use this template from the start of your framing to check the port positions as you progress. If you do this before you glue the actual sweep port fillers into position permanently (and the gun port sills), you can adjust them at that time to ensure the opening are in the correct spots. Then after you get them to match the template, glue them in permanently. Using the template is really the key to successfully and easily taking the guess-work out of positioning the ports. NOTE: With any POF project there is a lot going on and a lot of parts. It is inevitable that some frames may not end up where you want them exactly. Thats OK and certainly it happened to me. You may get a slight bend in your frame etc. Your wood thickness might be a little over or under with your frames. Maybe a frame isnt perfectly perpendicular to the keel after it settles once glued in. Creep can be an issue after 20 frames etc. But regardless of where you frames end up you can easily manipulate the sweep port fillers and sills using the templates to get them exactly where you want them. As you can see the framing looks perfect to the naked eye but I can assure you they are not...the template is your salvation!!! The photo below shows all of the square frames complete with a template I used to ensure all of the ports are positioned correctly. I did use my steel squares to line all of this stuff up as well. I used the square as a height gauge to make sure the sweep port was the correct height off of the build board. I have yet to do the port side and this will be done soon. This is where the model stands at the moment. Things will slow down now as I try and repeat this process until all of the square frames have been completed. There are over 40 square frames. Resist the urge to incrementally fair the hull until you have quite a few frames glued into position. In fact it is best to wait until they are all in position but I do realize it is hard to resist. I have lightly sanded the exterior a bit but I am careful not to over do it. I dont want to screw up the correct shape for the hull which is tough to see with only a few frames on the keel like this. When there is a lower gun port sill instead of a sweep port block, they are handled in the exact same way. They come in two layers as well....follow the same procedure.