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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. You dont have to start over at all... Many folks have found similar issues. Just remove the sill and fillers between the stern frames carefully. Then reshape slightly narrower and glue them in position again. Work from the inside ...out. Closing the gap so-to-speak to reduce that 3mm issue. If you can get it down to 1mm it will be tolerable and not at all noticeable. It wont effect the outcome in the slightest. You will easily be able to shift those stern timbers and clamp them against the top fillers to make up the space. do one at a time until you are done working towards to outside on the offending side. Easy-peasy. If you need new fillers you can cut them yourself or I can provide them foe you. Its a much easier solution and much cheaper solution. Chuck
  2. Make sure you fair the outside of the hull back at the stern sufficiently. I am referring to the outside stern frames. You want to have enough space after you put on the transom for the stern window fillers back there. So they leave a nice lip for your window inserts for the false lights on the stern. Hope that makes sense. Most folks under fair and they dont have enough space for it. Chuck
  3. Frank, welcome to the forum. I hope as a newbie to the hobby you will enjoy it and stick with it. I do want to point out to you however that your build log for the Harvey was removed. Being new to the hobby there is no way you could be aware of this but I must i form you that the Company in China you bought the kit from pirated it from a legit company. They stole the design which is typical of what happens in China. Buying or building or promoting these pirated kits is prohibited here do to the fact that it does unthinkable damage to the hobby and the legitimate companies that prepare these model kits. Please do take some time to learn about the countless Chinese companies as well as a few others in Russia and elsewhere who steal intellectual property. Please read through this topic which should give you an idea what to watch out for.
  4. Its a slow process. Just keep your templates on hand as you assemble the stern frames and fillers. You could in fact just assemble two frames at a time and then the fillers....working your way out to the sides from the center. That may be easier for you.
  5. What you are doing seems like it would be great if the transom was flat. But it isnt. So I am not to optimistic. I am not at all sure how you will fit that onto the model properly and establish the proper curves. But we shall see...
  6. How the hell do you ship an 800 volume book collection. It would cost a fortune. Yes indeed it sounds a bit sketchy. Doesnt make sense. unless someone lives within driving distance this is just not a very good idea. Especially sight unseen. Take some pictures maybe. I have this bridge….not that one…its a smaller bridge. But its for sale and only in its entirety. Buyer must make arrangements for delivery.
  7. Dont forget to go to the downloads forum to get the pdf plans and templates for the bulkheads. In addition the monograph chapters and other discussions can be found here. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/93-general-project-discussions-on-planking-fittings-and-monograph-chapters/
  8. Beautiful...you will never go back to planking any other way. The proof is in the pudding!!! Well done and she looks great. Onto chapter three, LOL. But lets see some pictures of her right side up!!!
  9. That is great news. The Unicorn looks like a wonderful model. That shiuld be a fine display.
  10. Enter your Album first. Then you will see a button to add images to it. But you must enter your empty album first.
  11. The sides should be beveled because the stern is curved when viewing it from above. Therefore the fillers are a bit wide until you sand and bevel the sides so they are angled correctly. It is explained in the monograph chapter.
  12. Nicely done....Looking forward to seeing you at the Admiralty workshop Ben. You should bring the model. I would love to see it in person. Chuck
  13. Its just any scrap wood. Its not laser cut....Use the 1/4 x 3/16 strips. They are just glued to the underside of the stern frames and faired. Yu can also use a balsa block....anything really.
  14. Just a heads up folks, I will be reopening the store tomorrow. There will be a limited supply of chapter 11 parts in cedar available. Once again I ask all of you to refrain from buying it unless you are close to needing it. I know I have asked before but that hasnt stopped folks. Its a shame really. I have limited capacity as I am still recovering from Covid. I really want to make sure that folks who are waiting on these parts get first pick from this batch. I hate to do it but if past chapter releases are any indication, I may have to cancel all orders that I know the builder is years away from needing this chapter. Its just not fair to the folks who are really in need right at this moment. Thank you so much for understanding. Chuck
  15. There is no hiding…tonight after some lobster rolls we will all get together for the annual “drunken Bob Ross” night!! A Traditional family fun get together of any vacation. All of you should try it. Chuck
  16. Very nice…your model will look dramatically different when the friezes are added. Its a real milestone moment of the project.
  17. The family tires me out. I cant sit at the beach doing nothing for hours. So today i stayed behind to relax on the deck looking out over the ocean. While writing of course. Yesterday I walked 8 miles on a cliff walk along the mansions of Newport. Im tired. Plus I have to do the grilling for when they get back from baking on the beach for hours. Not fun for me. Relaxing on deck while sipping a pint is much more relaxing. Those are a portion of my kids and their pack well ahead of me yesterday with even more of them really far ahead out of camera range.
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