Chuck

I received my copy and read through the entire book.  Its a just a great book and I have already picked up a few tricks from it.  There are quite a few nice techniques described in this book that will help you as a model builder construct fittings and ship's details that would be part of any Eighteenth Century vessel.  I highly recommend it.  Well worth a look!! even if you dont plan on building the Comet.   
 
Chuck

Its hard to see the definition in the lower and upper counters.  This can be tricky unless you define it better.  Note in the first picture I drew the shape of the counters with lines on the right.  But on the left side you can still see a very crisp edge and corners that define these areas.  I would take some sandpaper and sanding sticks to your counters and see if you can better define their shapes as shown in this photo.  Remember the upper counter (the skinny long one on the bottom in these photos)  needs to be a consistent width as it works its way port to starboard.  Most folks have a tendency to make it wider in the middle and I can see that happening in your pictures.  You can correct this buy working the sand paper across the counters carefully as you fair it more.  Remember to try and create hard line breaks between these counters and the sides of the lower counter.
 
Chuck
 

 

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Guys....
 
Tom,  I will bring her to the meeting tonight along with the plans to show our Jersey Club Members.  Its bring a model night!!!!
 
I finished framing the port openings in Boxwood.  I used the reference line from the batten to mark to top of the gunport sills.    They should paint nicely because they are all boxwood.  Unlike the first port which will be cut from ply fillers.  You can see it marked in pencil.  I am about to cut it out right now.  I also laser cut and tested the stern frames.   They are not glued in yet.  Its just a test and all looks good.  It helps make the shape of this little cutter come to life.  I will begin permanently framing the stern as soon as I cut those two forward ports.  Before painting them I will prepare the surface with wood filler or even gesso to smooth it out.  This creates a nice surface to paint on after its sanded with a very fine sandpaper.
 

 

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

Its hard to see the definition in the lower and upper counters.  This can be tricky unless you define it better.  Note in the first picture I drew the shape of the counters with lines on the right.  But on the left side you can still see a very crisp edge and corners that define these areas.  I would take some sandpaper and sanding sticks to your counters and see if you can better define their shapes as shown in this photo.  Remember the upper counter (the skinny long one on the bottom in these photos)  needs to be a consistent width as it works its way port to starboard.  Most folks have a tendency to make it wider in the middle and I can see that happening in your pictures.  You can correct this buy working the sand paper across the counters carefully as you fair it more.  Remember to try and create hard line breaks between these counters and the sides of the lower counter.
 
Chuck
 

 

Today I started my work with the rear platform, after yesterdays mistake of the crooked eye I paid extra attention when gluing the planks that they were going to come in straight.  It worked!
 

 
I did notice that in the instructions the rear platform is cut so that it curves into a much smaller space as it moves toward the aft, after I finished I decided I was ok with the shape and size of mine.
 
I then proceeded to the risers, I was careful to use a spacer underneath the cap rail to ensure that I had consistent distances along the entire run as well as ensuring that both sides were mirrors.
 

 
I put in the front of the storage locker after completing the risers
 

 
In this picture you can see the run of the boat inside, I used a slightly different stain on the floorboards, risers, platforms and thwarts.  The planking and structure of the boat is MinWax Fruitwood 241 while the internal structures I went a hair lighter on and used Ipswitch Pine 221.  The Ipswitch pine has a nice light reddish hue that I felt matched up nicely with the red on the cap rail and knees (hard to tell from the photos)
 

 
I started playing around with the thwarts, I just have them dry fit and not accurately at this point
 

 
And then I pulled them out, scribed and stained them.  
 

 
That will be the beginning of next weekends time in the shipyard, finishing the thwarts, cockpit and figuring out how to make the all important thwart where the mast comes through.  I'll be poring over all the finished build logs to see how other folks have done that portion.

Its hard to see the definition in the lower and upper counters.  This can be tricky unless you define it better.  Note in the first picture I drew the shape of the counters with lines on the right.  But on the left side you can still see a very crisp edge and corners that define these areas.  I would take some sandpaper and sanding sticks to your counters and see if you can better define their shapes as shown in this photo.  Remember the upper counter (the skinny long one on the bottom in these photos)  needs to be a consistent width as it works its way port to starboard.  Most folks have a tendency to make it wider in the middle and I can see that happening in your pictures.  You can correct this buy working the sand paper across the counters carefully as you fair it more.  Remember to try and create hard line breaks between these counters and the sides of the lower counter.
 
Chuck
 

 

Fore Tack Step Blocks
 
These are relatively large Blocks which attach to the Boomkins - 14" in real life. I made them from English Box, the pics tell the story :
 

 

 

 

 
Their Strops are served :
 

 
  Danny

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Gun Preparation
 
Each gun port on the gundeck requires 4 eyebolts to secure the gun tackles and breech lines.  The holes were drilled and the upper eyebolts fitted.  The lower eyebolts will go in with the breech lines:
 

 
As a review, I'll be using Chuck's brass canon from the Syren Co. in place of the kit-supplied white metal canon:
 

 
You can see a small bit of flashing in the trunion hole in the uppermost canon.  For this purpose, keep a 1/16" drill bit handy for (gentle) easy removal by hand (12 pounders) .  In the case of the smaller 6 pounders, a #67 bit will suffice.  Also, keep a small sanding stick ready to smooth the ends of the trunions.  I cleaned the guns by soaking in acetone before fitting the trunions.
 
Here's what the guns look like with the trunions installed:
 

 
Although one could choose to solder in the trunions, I chose to simply use the smallest dab of thick CA for this purpose.  It gives you time to work .
 
The next step will be fitting the brass rings for the breech lines to the guns.
 
 
 
 

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

its been a while so i thought i might update the progress on my typical british merchant vessel circa the 1600's,, been catching up on all the little details that get left to do later during the construction

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  
 
Bill,
 
All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.
 
So its just a matter of focusing well and the,
 
choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.
 
The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.
 
Chuck

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck