Chuck

Today I wanted to get the crappy part out of the way.  What a mess.  Fairing the outside of the hull before  I start putting in the port sills.
 
Lots  of saw dust.  You folks are very familiar with this.  Even with a smaller hull it took the whole day.  This is the single most important part of the project.  Unfortunately because its such a pain its easy to understand why people rush through it only to have issues later on.
 
At the bow is the usual "Bow filler piece"  and a few horizontal pieces which is where the forward port will reside.  Fairing the bow was challenging.  Whenever you think its done...its really not.  This is easy to spot using a batten.  I dont angle my rabbet for the planking until this stage.  And its important.  Most folks angle the rabbet before gluing the bulkheads into the former.  But I can never get the angles right.  Its easier for me to visualize when fairing the bow and inserting battens every now and again to see how they fit.
 
Before fairing
 

 
After a good start at fairing the bow.  Notice how the bulkhead former within the rabbet is faired to match the angle of the bow filler after its faired.  If you dont do this then the plank wont fit nicely into the rabbet and defeats the purpose of having one to begin with.  This is what takes lots of time.  Small chisels nd sanding sticks...the usual suspects to do it.  I am using the laser char on the bulkhead edges to check how the fairing is progressing as I work towards mid ship.  Then I switch around and work from the stern to midship again to complete the fairing.
 

 

 
Here are some battens added to check the run of the port sills.  There are laser reference marks on each bulkhead as is usually the case.  After some careful adjustments the top of the batten was marked off on each bulkhead edge to indicate the top of the port sills.  Notice how the batten fits into the rabbet and because of how its faired,  I didnt have to even pre bend this strip.  It lays in there perfectly and no pins are used to hold it in the rabbet.  That will make planking so much easier.....which would have been a fight if I didnt take my time with this fairing.  I am gald its all done,  but I can still see some spots...
 

 

 

 
Tomorrow I will add the port sills and port framing before starting on the stern framing.

Thank you gentlemen...
 
I took a break from framing because I wanted to work on the windlass.  Its 3 1/2" long. I have had the design concept in my brain for over a year and I wanted to see if it would work.  I think it came out really well.  The design is much like the lantern.  You build the windlass drum in sections and slide them onto a 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  There are 65 pieces in this windlass.   All laser cut.  Its a perfect match to the plans.  The hardest part (which isnt very hard at all)  is to bevel the edges of each face of the drum.  This is so they fit tightly together.   Once you get the angle down,  it goes quickly and without incident.   You have to bevel the edges without over doing it because you will lose the original shape of each precision cut piece.  The laser char on the edge actually help out a lot.  You need to bevel the edge until the laser char is all gone and resist beveling further.  
 
 I was worried about this ever since I saw the model in the Rogers collection.  Yes, you could shape the windless drum from one piece and carve the sprockets by hand...but that is a real challenge.  I have seen what David Antscherl did for his Comet model and it scared me to death ever since.  Knowing that others will ultimately build this model I needed to put my kit designer hat on.  This windlass is a MAJOR deck fitting and can make or break a model of a cutter if it isnt done well enough.
 
Ultimately,  this windlass will be painted all red but I am not sure yet.  Its usually shown that way on contemporary models.  If I decide to leave it natural boxwood I will paint the ends of the drum so you cant see the construction method.  If its painted carefully to look like wood, it will look like a solid piece.  This is still not glued together.  The individual segments are just slid onto the stick.  I just have to snip the ends of teh stick off and sand them down after the segments are glued together. Silly me, I got so into making it, that I didnt take any construction photos.
 
That means I will have to build another one at some point.  Lucky me. 
 
Now to take my daughter to the movies and sit with her and about 7 other 14 year old noisy girls.  Lucky me again!!!
 

 

 

 

I also wanted to post some photos of the Rogers collection model.  I should have done so earlier on in this log.  It is identified as Cheerful but after much scrutiny it is not.  At least in my opinion.  The measurements on deck match but thats about it.  There are too many stunning discrepancies when compared to the original drafts.  But its very close.  It is a cutter of the same period and for research its very valuable.
 
The rigging is quite odd as well.  Nothing I have ever seen on a cutter of this period.  It is interesting to note that until recently this model was identified as an unknown cutter circa 1770's.  I am not sure who actually mis-identified it as Cheerful but it has changed at least three times in literature that refers to the Rogers collection.
 
Its a great model non-the-less.  What I was glad to see was it is not Clinker planked.    One of the reasons I chose this subject.  I also have many photos of the square tuck...note the vertical planking back there as opposed to the usual diagonal.   This is a detail that is also shown on the original draft.  Also note the gunnades on deck.  These are the carronades on carriages rather than sleds.   This model does not have long twelves at the bow which Cheerful did have.  Instead it has more gunnades.  Also note such peculiar things such as the aft most shroud being served but the fore shroud is not.  Go figure.
 
Any question and I would be glad to try and answer them.  I have tons of photos.   I also have some photos of the only sister....in this class,  Surly.  This is another contemporary model in a Canadian museum.  It shows this class after a major refit.  One that Cheerful never had because it had such a short life.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

 

Since there is nothing on the tube tonight I went ahead and glued the bulkheads into position.   This was something I wanted to do quickly so I get get a sense of the overall shape of this cutter.   I will start framing the gunports tomorrow.  You will notice the 2nd bulkhead at the bow has no extensions.  They wont be needed because the forward-most port will be framed there.  No warping which is great....straight as an arrow. 
 

 

Unknown...circa 1950-60 maybe...
 
Some people save stray dogs  I save models that are destined for the dumpster.
 

 
Unknown Dutch Fishing vessel...Maybe???  Circa 1950ish maybe.  Who knows.
 

 

 

Not to get to off topic...
 
 
But just a few...Boy am I lazy today.  I am crapping up my own build log to boot!!!
 
Great Republic by Boucher...1912
 

 

 

 

 

And just to round out the images of where I spend 10 - 12 hours per day...
 
This is the other side of the shop which is in my basement...yes I know it is an absolute bloody mess.  In total its about 25 feet long and 18 feet wide with that little hallway which leads to my kids man cave.
 
This is my block making station where yesterday I finished up milling 2000 2mm blocks.  Theres a lot of sawdust on the floor....and my shop mascot snuck in the picture.   You can see a drill press behind my hi-tech dust control system...the fan. , Byrnes saw and Sherline mill.
 

 
This is one half of my rope making station...You can see one half of that cheapo ME ropewalk on the table as well as all of the scraps from making a few thousand feet of rope over the last few days....I WANT TO BELIEVE.
 
I will be bringing all of that rope making stuff to St Louis to do a demo for the NRg Conference.   I will be showuing how I make 20 - 23 foot lengths of rope on that little Model Shipways rope walk....thats how I make all of it.
 

 

 
And then looking down the length of my basement and down the 30 foot long hallway to the other end of the rope making station.   This is where I make my rope.  Nothing too terribly exciting.   Alond the wall is my library and a bunch of old models...including the 18th century model that I should really find a better place for.  There is another old Dutch model there too that is crying out for some love and restoration.  I have no idea what it is but looks about 60 - 70 years old.  Maybe.  By God I have to tidy up this place...there is crap all over.  I am embarrassed.
 

I absolutely agree and I thought the same thing.  BUT....then I found these.  All contemporary and from the same time period.  I have dozens more with and without port lids.  I guess we shall never know.  I will add the rabbet......and have no lids.  That is a safe bet I think.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Gesso is what is used by artist to prepare the underlying coat on a canvas or any other medium. It is acrylic based, is extremely easy to apply with a brush, provides a very nice finish, smooths itself very well and provides that extra grit that is necessary for acrylic paint to stick to the medium.
 
You can find it in black or white at Art Shops. It is very inexpensive and can be diluted with water if you find it too thick.
 
I use Gesso to paint black parts on my models (as done by Chuck on the pictures above) but found out that you must apply Gesso directly on the wood. Do not use any other chemical or varnish in between the wood and Gesso.
 
Yves

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thanks Guys....
 
Tom,  I will bring her to the meeting tonight along with the plans to show our Jersey Club Members.  Its bring a model night!!!!
 
I finished framing the port openings in Boxwood.  I used the reference line from the batten to mark to top of the gunport sills.    They should paint nicely because they are all boxwood.  Unlike the first port which will be cut from ply fillers.  You can see it marked in pencil.  I am about to cut it out right now.  I also laser cut and tested the stern frames.   They are not glued in yet.  Its just a test and all looks good.  It helps make the shape of this little cutter come to life.  I will begin permanently framing the stern as soon as I cut those two forward ports.  Before painting them I will prepare the surface with wood filler or even gesso to smooth it out.  This creates a nice surface to paint on after its sanded with a very fine sandpaper.
 

 

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Hopefully not to confuse the situation,  But here is a better image of Cheerfuls stem parts.  You are using the outboard plan.  This is from the inboard draft.  I have seen this arrangement on two other cutters but sadly these details are not shown on most cutter drafts.  The Alert is much younger also so this may not even be applicable.   
 
But I wanted to mention how all of the lines on the draft you posted are dashed for these elements.  On the inboard sheet however it shows the dashed lines as if they were parts cut for the other side of the stem only.  Meaning that the stem was intended to be cut in one piece and the two other elements used for the boxing joint and apron on the other side only.  That is ...if I am reading the draft correctly.   It seems unlikely that they could find such a large piece to make the stem like that.   So I agree with Ed that in all likelihood it depended on what wood they had on hand and probably ended up with a  much different "made up"  stem that may not have matched any of these choices.
 
So I simplified it a great deal for my project because I dont find all of these elements an attractive addition to a ship model anyway.  Its too distracting and busy.  In fact....you never see the separate pieces on almost all of the contemporary cutter models I have seen.  The stem is always one piece down to the boxing joint.
 

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Ben, Thanks. I sanded the frames down and cleand up the gap. Attached is the frames with stain applied. Still see a bit of a seam, but im happy with the look. A bit more sanding will be done to clean up a bit before applying poly finish.
 
I also started framing the stern. Slow going.... Work getting in the way of building!