Chuck

Michael, this one is for you!  Isn't there a beer commercial with a very similar jingle?  These are my display cases.  They are made of mahogany left over from construction of the house.  There is a can light in each bay (I think you Canadians call them pot lights).  The glass floor of the upper tier allows light into the lower tier.  
 

 
Some of the occupants of my dockyard are Mantua's Peregrine Galley (the first POB ship I built), Mamoli's Roter Lowe, Amati's Prince (abandoned because of terrible plans), Sergal's Cutty Sark, Model Shipways' Fair American, the Lumberyard's Oneida and Mantua's Victory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then there is my triplet of small ships, Scientific's Cutty (we're not even saying what decade that was built), Admiralty Model's cutter and Chuck's longboat.
 

 
Finally, there is a small display for my other hobby.  Those eggs take up a lot less room than a ship!
 

 
There is a running theme with these ships.  I discovered that I truly dislike rigging.  I keep telling myself that I will finish the rigging on the Cutty and Victory, especially the Victory, but so far it hasn't happened.  That is why I have converted to hull-only models.  Sorry about the photographer in one of the pics, those mirrors make photographs difficult.
 
 

Well on the 13th month anniversary of the start of the build the final full frame has been installed.
 
Ben

The quarterdeck details, beams, carlings and  knees have been completed:
 

 
 
With that, we bid fare thee well to the stern and turn our attention to the long forgotten bow.
 
Before tearing into it, I've prepared the beams and knees to go under the forecastle deck.  These will be set as we install the bow details:
 

 

Thanks for all the "likes".  Work on the brake pump and handle continues.  The only measurement given is the handle.  Everything else interpreted from the drawings.  The handle is 3' 6" long, 3" at it's widest part and 1 1/2" thick (.03125") .  I under-sized it to .03" thick so it would not bind (see next sentence).  The bracket for the handle is three sandwiched .03125: pieces, roughly shaped, glued together and then finish-sanded.  The center piece is cut short, resulting in a slot for the handle.  The out-flow tube is brass, yet to be darkened.  The plunger rod is yet to be installed.  Each little section is a project into itself. 
 
The axle and handle for the chain pump is going to be a challenge.  Keeping everything along the axis with several 90 degree bends means soldering pieces, not just bending.  As I read the plans, it runs above the edge of the hatch.  That must mean it was removed when not in use so it would not interfere with moving material in and out through the hatch.  Any thoughts?
Maury

Beautiful!!      Well done and the perfect size.

I have received most of the replacement rope from Syren. Some of the sizes were in short supply and I will order the balance when they are available.
 
The quality looks to be excellent and it was delivered promptly. Below are some photos of some of the different sizes - light and dark brown, rather than the black and light tan of the kit.
 
When I first bought the kit about 3 years ago, for some obscure reason I hung some of the black thread over the top of a door and then forgot about it. It was in a light room, but not in direct sunlight.  It has not aged well. It is now an uneven dark tan and extremely furry.  Perhaps beeswax would solve the problem.
 
Here are the different sizes of the brown. Unfortunately the packaging tends to obscure the thread inside.

 
I hope this gives a better idea of the quality. It was taken in sunlight.

 
Here is the light tan.

 

● Grating (Upper Deck): I made my first set of gratings today with 3/64" holes and 3/64" battens. The coamings were made from 1/16" x 1/8" strip with lap joints. I used the method described on EdT's Victory log to make the gratings. .http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/316-hms-victory-by-edt-196-pob/page-2#entry29518. No glue was necessary since the battens went together with a nice fit. Thank you Chuck, EdT and Michael Mott for all your help.
 

 

I am going to paint my windlass red... just in case you are wondering.   It would be easier to do before you assemble the individual completed sections of the drum.   It looks like a promising start so far.  Yes it was designed so that you could use the laser char to gauge when you are done beveling.  It should all be gone from the edge when you are done...but just barely.   I also icluded an extra face or two for some segments.  But let me know if you need additional for boo-boos.
 
I just used an emery board that was 1 inch wide with a medium grit to create the bevel while holding the faces between two fingers.  Basically eye-balling it.  Your method seems much more accurate.  But if you do plan on painting it red...you can fill the few cracks and seems that may be there.
 

 
Chuck

That little side to side difference wont matter.   I would try and just open the slots up evenly on both sides.  Use a sanding stick that is pretty large with some coarse sandpaper glued to it.   I just ordered a bunch of plywood so hopefully it will be the correct thickness. If time permits I may cut some sets if the thickness is OK.    Its midwest ply...not the 6mm stuff.  You must look for actual 1/4" thick stuff.
 
Dont forget to download the first chapter of the monograph online.   I just added it and plan to get the others written within a week or so until I am caught up with my progress thus far.  One important thing I always mention is for the builder to always measure the thickness of the ply before they start cutting.  This way they can make adjustments to the slots before they start making sawdust.  Its awful trying to find accurate good quality ply.   It looks good so far though....
 
Chuck

Log 31 – Furled Sails
 
Hello again to all, and thanks as always for the comments and likes. Here is the next installment.
 
Having done the furled spritsail, I used many of the same techniques for the fore and main courses.  Here is the current appearance of the model with those sails furled and hung.
 
1
 
To start, the spars were shaped as usual, octagonal in the center, then rounded and tapered to the ends.  Cleats were added to the center and stop cleats on the ends.  Two pair of single blocks were stropped below the spar near the center for the clew lines and topsail sheets.  Pendants for the braces were made up with an eye on one end to fit the spar and a large single block seized into the other end.
 
2
 
On top of the spar small single blocks were stropped for the leach lines and bunt lines.  Below the spar are the stirrups and footropes, stiffened, weighted and hung in the same way as those on the spritsail yard, as described in the last log. 
 
3
 
At the outer ends there are fiddle-style blocks, without sheaves, for the lifts and topsail sheets.  Here are those blocks before installation.
 
4
 
And here are the Dutch blocks which will be hung on short pendants at the masthead for the lifts, as described by Andersen.
 
5
 
The only other fitting not connected to the sail is the parrell.  The rollers were made from plastic tube, while the spacers were parted off a stick shaped like a triple letter “B”.  The ropes will go around the spar, double back lying in the grooves of the parrell, around the spar again, and then have one leg taken to a belaying point on the deck.
 
6
 
The technique that I worked out for the furled sail is a bit complex, and there were a lot of missteps and discarded efforts before I got a method that seems to work.  The first step was to lay out the shape of the sail onto the sailcloth.  The cloth was stretched slightly and pinned to a corkboard.  The entire sail area was sprayed lightly with matte finish to keep it from bunching as I worked on it.
 
The top line is the length of the sail, which is about 3/8” short of the stop cleats on each end of the spar.  This line was marked, as closely as possible, along the warp of the fabric so the fewest threads would be cut, reducing fraying.   The primary depth is 2/3 the actual height of the sail if it were to be set.  The reduced width of the lower edge was estimated by drawing out the full sail, then drawing a line between the clew and the future location of the clew block.  Where that line crossed the 2/3 line was where the corner of the sail was set.
 
If I wanted a tight furl, as though on a naval ship in harbor, I would stop here.  But for a pirate ship without a permanent base, I went with a loose furl with the clews of the sails pulled out a bit, ready to be lowered.  I therefore added two points on the ends of the lower edge. 
 
7
 
The size and shape of these points was done by eye, but I was a bit off.  I found out during the furling process that the points pull inward too much, making furling more difficult.  When I do it again I will have the clew points angle outward a bit to compensate.
 
Panel seams were penciled in every 20 inches in scale.  At the ends they were angled in so the last one was parallel with the outer edge of the sail.  An outer line for the tabling was drawn all around the sail.  A double coating of slightly thinned white glue was painted on the tabling and an equal distance inside the sail.  This was left to dry.
 
8
 
 
A length of line long enough to go around the perimeter of the sail was coated with white glue and laid along the sail edge inside the tabling to represent the bolt rope. This was pinned in place and left to dry.  
 
10
 
At the clews and upper corners the line was looped around itself to make the attachment points for future lines.
 
11
 
Once dry, the shape of the sail could be cut out without fraying.
 
 
9
 
Now the tabling was closed around the bolt rope.  First a metal straightedge was used to fold the tabling, then the fold was burnished to form a sharp crease.  With an old plank bender I carefully applied heat to the overlap.  This reactivated the glue to form an instant bond.
 
12
 
The tabling was ironed close to the trapped line, giving the impression of a bolt rope without having to sew it to the sail, a process that I have tried but cannot master.  Someone who knows how to use a sewing machine could probably make a realistic edge.
 
13
 
Now the sail could be hung on the spar, then furled.  After much experimentation, I decided that I could not simply fold, crumple and crush the sail so it looked realistically furled.  Instead, I found that a ‘twist’ in the method made all the difference.  If I rolled the sail around itself as I folded it, the resulting furl was much tighter and more even. 
 
But if I laced the sail to the spar it could not be rolled.  Instead, the majority of the lacing was put on first.  Between the outer single blocks, the ones for the leach lines, and across most of the spar, there is a false lacing.  It has been darkened with finish and you can see the contrast with the new lacing on the outer end of the sail.
 
14
 
The sail was now sprayed with water till it was pliable.  The sail was rolled, folded and crushed until I was happy with the look from the end of the spar to the leach block.  There the first grommet was wrapped twice around the sail and spar, then loosely tied.
 
This process was continued across the length of the sail.  Each section from grommet to grommet was treated separately, with more or less rolling, etc. as needed.  The sail was periodically sprayed to keep it supple.  When the final section was basically correct the sail was painted with acrylic matte finish.  While still wet and soft the final tweaks were made and the grommets tightened.
 
After the finish was dry and the sail stiff, clew and sheet blocks were attached to the dangling points of the sail.  A tack line with a stopper knot was laced through the clew and the spar was ready to be hung.
 
I apologize for not having photos of the process, but it took at least three hands to keep everything going, and I did not take photos along the way.  You can see how the process worked out.
 
15
 
Here the fore yard is being hung.  The parrell was laced around the mast to hold the spar to it.  The ties lead from under the central cleats up through the mast cap, down through the top and through the ramshead block, then up again through the mast cap and down to the spar where it is attached with a rolling hitch.
 
The lifts start at the Dutch blocks at the mast cap, then through the inner hole in the sister block at the yardarm, through the Dutch block and down to a sheave in the bitts at the base of the mast.  The braces run from the main stay to the pendant blocks, back to blocks on the stay, and to timberheads near the break of the foredeck.  All this is as I understand it from R.C. Andersen.  Budriot is actually not much help here.
 
The sail handling lines were fitted and run through their blocks.  Here you can see clew, bunt and leach lines.  Also in the photo are the blocks for the brace and sheet lines.  Finally, the bowlines were made up and run according to Andersen.
 
15a
 
At the base of the mast you can see the belaying points, as well as the ramshead block and halyard lines through it.
 
16
 
From the other angle you can see how that strange cleat fixture on deck actually works quite well.
 
17
 
So here is the model with both fore and main spars hung and their furled sails and lines all rigged.
 
18
 
Next, the crojack yard and lateen sail on the mizzen.  This will be the first sail that will be set, so there are a whole new bunch of issues that have to be addressed.  Until then,
 
Be well.
 
Dan
 
 
 

Barrel part C.  I took the first attempt apart (that's why they invented isopropyl), and sanded just a hair more off each long edge using the 22.5 degree bevel jig.  They fit nicely this time.  Snug to the octagonal supports.  Lining up the ends of the first side perfectly on the octagon pieces insures everything else coming together.  The smaller barrel parts will be a different challenge.  Going back to work on the Echo Section http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/ soon, so the windlass is probably on hold for a while.
Maury

I am going to paint my windlass red... just in case you are wondering.   It would be easier to do before you assemble the individual completed sections of the drum.   It looks like a promising start so far.  Yes it was designed so that you could use the laser char to gauge when you are done beveling.  It should all be gone from the edge when you are done...but just barely.   I also icluded an extra face or two for some segments.  But let me know if you need additional for boo-boos.
 
I just used an emery board that was 1 inch wide with a medium grit to create the bevel while holding the faces between two fingers.  Basically eye-balling it.  Your method seems much more accurate.  But if you do plan on painting it red...you can fill the few cracks and seems that may be there.
 

 
Chuck

Good morning John,
 
Yes, she is a good looking ship! I hope my finished product does her justice. I think you would enjoy the build.
 
I'm back form my trip and was happy to see my first order from Chuck's Syren Co has arrived and based on my experience and what I see, it will not be my last order. I'll share this experience in case it's beneficial to others.
 
On line ordering was simple to follow with no issues. I ordered on Thur Jan 15 and on the same day rec'ed three emails. One was a receipt from paypal, the second was was a confirmation letter and thank you from Chuck with the third being item shipped. Very impressive! The items arrived the following Monday after I left for my trip up north. Arrival in four days is outstanding in my book. I had a couple of minutes this morning to confirm contents matched my order and I took a couple of photos to compare Syren parts vs OEM from my Niagara kit.  In my opinion based on my initial look, the Syren blocks and rope are hands down much better than what was supplied with the kit. I would not hesitate to use the kit supplied items if I had to, but I had options and liked what I purchased. The OEM blocks supplied for the carronades looked a bit rough and too big for me and I did not want to sand them down to try and get a smaller size. I ordered the smallest pear blocks Chuck offered and they will do the job nicely. I used the OEM rope for my ships bell but it does not hang right (I will replace) and I could see I would be fighting that issue on all of the rigging. Chucks rope looks like it will hang more natural and it just plain looks right to me. Below are a few pictures, on the left side of the photos are Syren products with OEM on the right. Hopefully resolution is good enough for you to see and appreciate the difference.

Not Really Kurt
 
There are a few magazine articles,  the Peterson book on Rigging,  A few other books may have a nugget or two, but thats it.  Its pretty much spread all over the place.  You really cant count on the AOTS book for Alert.  Its much earlier than Cheerful.  The cutter didnt change all that much but there are still vast differences in some areas.   Its also has a few errors in it which have been discussed to death.  The windlass is one of them.
 
Luckily there are quite a few contemporary models of cutters out there.  There are also tons of plans for cutters on the NMM site.  AND the Cheerful plans are excellent in every respect. Very detailed which is why I chose it.
 
I pent the day planking.  Got the first belt done ob the starboard side.  It went quickly.  Only eight planks.   The starboard side is now half planked.  I must complete the square tuck on the starboard side next before I can plank the lower belt.  Luckily because its a POB design and NOT a fully framed model,  I dont have to follow actual practice for building the square tuck.   So based on my design I can do one half of the tuck at a time.  I am eager to get it done to see how it will work out.
 
Once the square tuck is done then I will plank the remaining 10 strakes in the lower belt....then I must repeat the process on the other side.  
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

I am going to paint my windlass red... just in case you are wondering.   It would be easier to do before you assemble the individual completed sections of the drum.   It looks like a promising start so far.  Yes it was designed so that you could use the laser char to gauge when you are done beveling.  It should all be gone from the edge when you are done...but just barely.   I also icluded an extra face or two for some segments.  But let me know if you need additional for boo-boos.
 
I just used an emery board that was 1 inch wide with a medium grit to create the bevel while holding the faces between two fingers.  Basically eye-balling it.  Your method seems much more accurate.  But if you do plan on painting it red...you can fill the few cracks and seems that may be there.
 

 
Chuck

I am going to paint my windlass red... just in case you are wondering.   It would be easier to do before you assemble the individual completed sections of the drum.   It looks like a promising start so far.  Yes it was designed so that you could use the laser char to gauge when you are done beveling.  It should all be gone from the edge when you are done...but just barely.   I also icluded an extra face or two for some segments.  But let me know if you need additional for boo-boos.
 
I just used an emery board that was 1 inch wide with a medium grit to create the bevel while holding the faces between two fingers.  Basically eye-balling it.  Your method seems much more accurate.  But if you do plan on painting it red...you can fill the few cracks and seems that may be there.
 

 
Chuck

Uh...not exactly
 
From the same Goodwin book.  It just wasnt illustrated.  There is a whole section about the margin plank. The bottom drawing does show and list the margin plank but only the later nibbed variety.  In actual practice this is how it was done back then.
 
Here is an excerpt...
 
"  Parallel to the ships side and fayed to the waterway was a strake of planking known as the margin plank.  The function of this was to prevent the normal straight deck planking from being tapered to a fine angle where it met the curvature of the ship's side at the fore and after ends.  The margin plank was thus fashioned to receive the butts of those planks.  It was stipulated that no plank was to be 'joggled" into the margin plank unless the length of its tapered edge was more than twice the width of the plank, and that the plank was only to be tapered or "snaped" to half its width at the butt end.  The margin plank was the same thickness as the deck plank,  but one and a half times as wide."
 
This describes very late 18th century nibbing practice and early 19th.  Prior to this, 1760's... rather than nib into the margin or waterway,  they hooked the planks as shown in the contemporary models I posted which is as primary a source as you can get.  The "hooked" planks instead sitting against and alongside  the margin.  They were also tapered and curved a bit at the fore and aft ends of the deck.  This was done to keep the margin/waterway in tact among other reasons.  The rules are out there..you just have to find them.  Primary sources are the key.  Secondary sources are all over the map with omissions and simplifications.  Goodwin is an excellent source.  Sadly  Mondfeld is not held in the same way.  Although I wish that it was indeed the way Roberts described..it would be much less hassle.
 
To further complicate about actual deck planking practices from this time, other details are rarely illustrated but can be seen on contemporary models and described in primary texts.  Those include the anchor style deck planks that sometimes ran along the bulwarks a couple of strakes inboard. Also from Goodwin..
 
" fitted two strakes of either top and butt or anchor stock 4ft from each side of the ship.  The function of this was to resist any athwartships compression that occurred when the vessel was in heavy seas."
 
One other rule....not often illustrated  "no plank butts between the hatches and comings"   A single length of deck plank was laid between the hatches with no need for butt seams even though this may have disrupted the normal  three or four butt shift pattern.
 
Depending on how historically accurate you want to get with the details,there are many rules like this and no one source really contains them all.  But once again, luckily for us... most have been compiled in the fully framed series.  Makes our lives much easier. This secondary source contains more of these rules in one place than any other.    So unless you want to poke around and gather the many many other resources...both primary and secondary for these individual nuggets,  I highly recommend the series.

Yes I agree with that...Half of its original width at the butt end.  If it was thinner it would defeat the purpose of doing it that way.   
 
Primary sources are key including contemporary models.
 
Its like the outboard planking around the ports...
 
You rarely see it illustrated and talked about in books like Robert's or Mondfeld.   But the methods are shown on contemporary drafts and texts and building contracts....
 
Like this detail outboard of the planking on top of and below the ports...you will never find it in Monfeld  If you want raise the level of accuracy always try and get your hands on some primary sources.
 

Yes indeed that is the Model shipways solid hull kit, Essex....I think we have one in the Gallery....Here are some comparison images...just the paint colors are different.   From the early 60's or 70's and possibly even the early 80's.
 
It was made in two scales...1/8" scale was the first version and that could be as old as the 50's but this is clearly the 5/32" version.  It may have been built later because I see some of the earmarks spelled out in Jim Roberts book on building the kit.  Which buy todays standards was just a min practicum on building the kit.  Many of the details on your old model are dead ringers for what he wrote about.  The figurehead is also a dead give away...you see,  the metal casting...lead at the time was very soft.  The hatchet or axe the Indian was supposed to hold in his hand was always bent or broken and had to be replaced.  It is why it may appear slightly different on models that were completed.  But the body is a perfect copy with its flowing cape.  I may even have one laying around the shop.  
 

 

 
Comparison
 

 

Uh...not exactly
 
From the same Goodwin book.  It just wasnt illustrated.  There is a whole section about the margin plank. The bottom drawing does show and list the margin plank but only the later nibbed variety.  In actual practice this is how it was done back then.
 
Here is an excerpt...
 
"  Parallel to the ships side and fayed to the waterway was a strake of planking known as the margin plank.  The function of this was to prevent the normal straight deck planking from being tapered to a fine angle where it met the curvature of the ship's side at the fore and after ends.  The margin plank was thus fashioned to receive the butts of those planks.  It was stipulated that no plank was to be 'joggled" into the margin plank unless the length of its tapered edge was more than twice the width of the plank, and that the plank was only to be tapered or "snaped" to half its width at the butt end.  The margin plank was the same thickness as the deck plank,  but one and a half times as wide."
 
This describes very late 18th century nibbing practice and early 19th.  Prior to this, 1760's... rather than nib into the margin or waterway,  they hooked the planks as shown in the contemporary models I posted which is as primary a source as you can get.  The "hooked" planks instead sitting against and alongside  the margin.  They were also tapered and curved a bit at the fore and aft ends of the deck.  This was done to keep the margin/waterway in tact among other reasons.  The rules are out there..you just have to find them.  Primary sources are the key.  Secondary sources are all over the map with omissions and simplifications.  Goodwin is an excellent source.  Sadly  Mondfeld is not held in the same way.  Although I wish that it was indeed the way Roberts described..it would be much less hassle.
 
To further complicate about actual deck planking practices from this time, other details are rarely illustrated but can be seen on contemporary models and described in primary texts.  Those include the anchor style deck planks that sometimes ran along the bulwarks a couple of strakes inboard. Also from Goodwin..
 
" fitted two strakes of either top and butt or anchor stock 4ft from each side of the ship.  The function of this was to resist any athwartships compression that occurred when the vessel was in heavy seas."
 
One other rule....not often illustrated  "no plank butts between the hatches and comings"   A single length of deck plank was laid between the hatches with no need for butt seams even though this may have disrupted the normal  three or four butt shift pattern.
 
Depending on how historically accurate you want to get with the details,there are many rules like this and no one source really contains them all.  But once again, luckily for us... most have been compiled in the fully framed series.  Makes our lives much easier. This secondary source contains more of these rules in one place than any other.    So unless you want to poke around and gather the many many other resources...both primary and secondary for these individual nuggets,  I highly recommend the series.

Uh...not exactly
 
From the same Goodwin book.  It just wasnt illustrated.  There is a whole section about the margin plank. The bottom drawing does show and list the margin plank but only the later nibbed variety.  In actual practice this is how it was done back then.
 
Here is an excerpt...
 
"  Parallel to the ships side and fayed to the waterway was a strake of planking known as the margin plank.  The function of this was to prevent the normal straight deck planking from being tapered to a fine angle where it met the curvature of the ship's side at the fore and after ends.  The margin plank was thus fashioned to receive the butts of those planks.  It was stipulated that no plank was to be 'joggled" into the margin plank unless the length of its tapered edge was more than twice the width of the plank, and that the plank was only to be tapered or "snaped" to half its width at the butt end.  The margin plank was the same thickness as the deck plank,  but one and a half times as wide."
 
This describes very late 18th century nibbing practice and early 19th.  Prior to this, 1760's... rather than nib into the margin or waterway,  they hooked the planks as shown in the contemporary models I posted which is as primary a source as you can get.  The "hooked" planks instead sitting against and alongside  the margin.  They were also tapered and curved a bit at the fore and aft ends of the deck.  This was done to keep the margin/waterway in tact among other reasons.  The rules are out there..you just have to find them.  Primary sources are the key.  Secondary sources are all over the map with omissions and simplifications.  Goodwin is an excellent source.  Sadly  Mondfeld is not held in the same way.  Although I wish that it was indeed the way Roberts described..it would be much less hassle.
 
To further complicate about actual deck planking practices from this time, other details are rarely illustrated but can be seen on contemporary models and described in primary texts.  Those include the anchor style deck planks that sometimes ran along the bulwarks a couple of strakes inboard. Also from Goodwin..
 
" fitted two strakes of either top and butt or anchor stock 4ft from each side of the ship.  The function of this was to resist any athwartships compression that occurred when the vessel was in heavy seas."
 
One other rule....not often illustrated  "no plank butts between the hatches and comings"   A single length of deck plank was laid between the hatches with no need for butt seams even though this may have disrupted the normal  three or four butt shift pattern.
 
Depending on how historically accurate you want to get with the details,there are many rules like this and no one source really contains them all.  But once again, luckily for us... most have been compiled in the fully framed series.  Makes our lives much easier. This secondary source contains more of these rules in one place than any other.    So unless you want to poke around and gather the many many other resources...both primary and secondary for these individual nuggets,  I highly recommend the series.

I am going to paint my windlass red... just in case you are wondering.   It would be easier to do before you assemble the individual completed sections of the drum.   It looks like a promising start so far.  Yes it was designed so that you could use the laser char to gauge when you are done beveling.  It should all be gone from the edge when you are done...but just barely.   I also icluded an extra face or two for some segments.  But let me know if you need additional for boo-boos.
 
I just used an emery board that was 1 inch wide with a medium grit to create the bevel while holding the faces between two fingers.  Basically eye-balling it.  Your method seems much more accurate.  But if you do plan on painting it red...you can fill the few cracks and seems that may be there.
 

 
Chuck

I am going to paint my windlass red... just in case you are wondering.   It would be easier to do before you assemble the individual completed sections of the drum.   It looks like a promising start so far.  Yes it was designed so that you could use the laser char to gauge when you are done beveling.  It should all be gone from the edge when you are done...but just barely.   I also icluded an extra face or two for some segments.  But let me know if you need additional for boo-boos.
 
I just used an emery board that was 1 inch wide with a medium grit to create the bevel while holding the faces between two fingers.  Basically eye-balling it.  Your method seems much more accurate.  But if you do plan on painting it red...you can fill the few cracks and seems that may be there.
 

 
Chuck

While waiting for more lumber to continue with Cheerful, I ordered the windlass kit from Chuck.  It's very neatly organized and the pieces (50 +) are very small.  The most impressive pieces IMO are the sprockets.  I could never do them from scratch with the tools I have.
For the sides of the barrel parts, the instructions just say to bevel them.  I need to be more precise if I want it to look anywhere near as nice as Chuck's illustration.  I cut a jig from some scrap to the exact angle of the eight pieces (22.5  degrees).  For those interested, each angle for an (any)  sided piece is determined by dividing the number of sides (8) into 360 degrees = 45.  The bevel on each piece will be half of that number = 22.5 degrees so that when they mate, you get 45 degrees.  By holding the barrel sides against the jig while moving it back and forth over a sanding stick results in the exact 22.5 degree bevel.  I sanded them down to just being able to see the laser char on one edge, but when assembled, they were just a hair too wide.  I think you have to sand to the point where the char is just no longer visible.  Once sanded, I rubbed a pencil along the inside angle so I could see to line up when gluing to the octagonal end pieces.  I started with section "C" as it is the largest part of the barrel and best for ramping up the learning curve.  Holding the little pieces is tough.
Maury

Yes indeed that is the Model shipways solid hull kit, Essex....I think we have one in the Gallery....Here are some comparison images...just the paint colors are different.   From the early 60's or 70's and possibly even the early 80's.
 
It was made in two scales...1/8" scale was the first version and that could be as old as the 50's but this is clearly the 5/32" version.  It may have been built later because I see some of the earmarks spelled out in Jim Roberts book on building the kit.  Which buy todays standards was just a min practicum on building the kit.  Many of the details on your old model are dead ringers for what he wrote about.  The figurehead is also a dead give away...you see,  the metal casting...lead at the time was very soft.  The hatchet or axe the Indian was supposed to hold in his hand was always bent or broken and had to be replaced.  It is why it may appear slightly different on models that were completed.  But the body is a perfect copy with its flowing cape.  I may even have one laying around the shop.  
 

 

 
Comparison