Chuck

Thanks all!   It is a great deal of fun.  Kind of a mix of fun and fear hehe.  
 
No mental scars yet
 
Chuck - this really is a great kit, one of the reasons I picked it up was all the build logs here for this very one, including yours which I read many many times and was a driving influence behind picking it up!!  (My wife by the way may want a word with you since I told her this one was so good that I have already eyed my next one....your Syren    )   Anyway, I have been checking hoping you had put that one back up, but I know that is a lot of work.  If you have any shots of the bow  1st planking, vs 2cnd planking, vs with beak  I would love it.  I am having a hard time seeing where what I am doing is going to end up looking like what it is supposed to but moving forward with blind faith in what I am doing.
 
Sjors - Thank you sir,  I am using a lot of faith on this one - trust me!!
 
Keel, Russ - Thanks for the kind words,  I am pleased with how it turned out and kind of gave me that - hey, this won't be so bad after all.  The pen was good,  I wish I could say it was my idea, but I read it here in the multitudes of log before the shut down,  I believe it was Dan Vadas who was talking about it.
 
Gerty, thank you sir  -  i see you are posting on the willie again,  I may have to switch back over to keep up with you
 
And Wayne,  hate to say it - but up until a year ago when I started this hobby I didn't even know what a Tiller was
 
 
 
I may be a couple of days before another update; the Admiral has informed me that she couldn't help notice I have two boats moving right along but the office which was supposed to be redone by end of winter was only barely started  .   So, I must attend to that some I think!!
 
 
Till later!
Enjoy!!!
 
 
-Adam

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice Work. There is so much nice stuff on this site. Need more building time.
 
Later 42rocker

Nice cutting of the curves on the deck beams.  In my yard, brute force and superstition would have been used to bend them into submisssion  .
 
I'm not going to ask if the stove works.
 
The great thing about this log is that, after almost 2 years on MSW, I'm beginning to see how things should be done.  That's not to say I could actually DO them.

The Naiad Frigate - Addendum 2
Printing Patterns
 
This is not a correction, but merely a note to emphasize the importance of printing the Naiad pattern sheets at ACTUAL SIZE.  This may seem obvious, but the Adobe software I use does not always default to actual size in the print dialog box.  It apparently opens at the last setting used.
 
To avoid the catastrophe of printing at the wrong scale, the attached pdf shows the correct printing settings on the two common Adobe applications and describes a method for checking the settings.
 
 
Addendum 2 .pdf
 
Ed
 

And here is the gunport lids being made and installed

Here is the making of the ships stove.

Here is a view of the cannon construction.

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi everyone. Wow, what a change! 
 
Anyway, it looks like I need to start a new log so here it is.
 
I haven't been able to get much done as of late. I've managed to get the catheads &  headrails done. Unfortunately I didn't see the the plan view of the middle head rail before attaching it, so it's missing the angle. (I really need to look at these plans more carefully!!)   
 
Also here's my first question:
 
According to the instructions the bumpkin is to be made from 1/16" round dowel but the stock I have is very flimsy and I don't believe it will hold up without bending when I attach the rigging. Should I use a bigger dowel?
 
And I just want to say - Its good to be back - I have lots of catching up to do on everyone's build logs.
 
Richard
 
  

I decided to plank using boxwood purchased from Jeff at Hobby Mill...he is the best!
 
     Bob R.

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi All, I've been digging through my file and I'm putting to gether the pictures for my scratch build of Chucks Model Shipways Syren. The build is in the 1:64 scale. The main wood used was Boxwood, Cherry, Holly and Swiss Pear.
 
 
This log was started back in 2007 and I was bad about taking pictures but here is what I have.
 

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update.
Ok... I've been experimenting A LOT with my machine and I think I got it now.
Here are photos of one thin (3 strands) thread in light beige, made with 3 strands (1 per spool) of Gutterman quilting thread. (It looks fuzzy, but every rope that goes onto my ship, passes over a lighter flame first to eliminate that.) This is the thinnest I may be able to do just because it's the thinnest thread I can start with. I found out that the problem I had making thin ropes was not the die hole diameter, but the speed. I managed to make this rope (less than .5mm) using the die that came with the machine, which is way wider than this thread, but at a very slow speed. In fact, I just learned that by letting the  twisting point to remain half way between the large eye before the die, and the spinning head, the thread came up more smooth and tight. I would love to hear some others experimenting with this.
 
The dark brown (36 strands) was made with  4 threads per spool spun into 1, (4*3) and then, 3 of these  spun into 1
(4*3*3=36).
 
I feel that if I can make these, I can make anything that's inbetween.
 
So  the options to make thick ropes are now 3:
 
1.- (The longest and more tedious, but maybe the more accurate) Start by twisting several (many many) meters of 1*3 rope, use those to make 1*3*3, then use these to make 1*9*3, etc
 
2.- Use 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 strands per spool. You will get a different thickness with each.
 
3.- Use different diameter threads to start with.
 
(Or any combination of the above)

New recruit requesting permission to come aboard!
 
Having made a few ships in bottles I wanted to see how small I could make a static ship model.
I have been overawed by the quality and craftsmanship of models I have seen in these pages and know that I could never come close to these. 
I used to build small ships when I was a kid so I  thought I would have another go. this is one from 45 years ago that my mother still had!
 
  I really loved the models I used to look at in the NMM and Science Museum in London and decided to make my Victory out of boxwood for the beautiful colour and fine grain. I acquired some boxwood veneer and made a start.
 

 
I made the bulkheads and keel from 0.7mm ply the boxwood was used for deck and planking
 



 
I was keen to keep the model in a timber finish and started to construct the stern and galleries onto the base hull form
 

 
The gunports are closed! and therefore set out as simple squares on the hull. I also started to think about the few visible cannons with brass tube barrels.
 

 
Lower masts are bamboo skewers reduced through a draw plate and bands fitted in cotton thread
 

 
For the smaller solid parts I used sawn sections from one of my wife's used clay modelling tools which are made of fine boxwood
 

Here is a PDF of the friezes.  I reduced some of the transom images further and it should be good to go.  Remember...if anyone needs a further resizing let me via PM.  All of the six transoms are different sizes so hopefully out of those posted you will find one you like.  Download it below.
 
longboatfreizes.pdf
 
Chuck

Thats not needed...most folks are good people.  They wouldnt do those things.  Those that would.....these types of agreements wouldnt matter.  If you post anything on the internet...beware of where it may end up.  Its really simple.  There is no way to protect yourself from crooks and evil people.  If you post any documents make sure you list your name and copyright.  Other then that...posting is open for all that "suck" to do their selfish deeds.  I have seen so many people ripped off (including myself) it is painful.   But those that are caught will be banned immediately from this site.
 
Chuck

Here are the stern decorations the were generously provided by Chuck. They are resin cast by Chuck and then painted by me. I could take 50 years and not be able to sculpt anything close to this.

Here is a PDF of the friezes.  I reduced some of the transom images further and it should be good to go.  Remember...if anyone needs a further resizing let me via PM.  All of the six transoms are different sizes so hopefully out of those posted you will find one you like.  Download it below.
 
longboatfreizes.pdf
 
Chuck

Ryland,
 
This is a beautiful Build Log. I love how you present the kit, the parts, the plans and all your step-by-step progress.
 
Darn, it makes my mouth water just watching you build that gorgeous kit. Once again, I am going to have to invest in Chuck Passaro, Inc.
 
I'll be following closely. By the time you are done, your Build Log will become the De Facto Practicum.
 
Yves

OK Chuck, I have pulled my partially completed Longboat out of the box and am ready to start back to work on this kit.  Your pictures really inspire me and like Chuck Seiler said, you can expand the pictures to get a better look at the detail.  Look for another Longboat build log soon.

continuous work, a bit delayed and carefully

After all of the bulkheads were installed, it was time to fair them.  I used sanding sticks that I purchased from a beauty supply shop.  You have to use a light touch to do the fairing or you will loosen up some of the bulkheads.  I actually loosened up several of the bulkheads, but it was an easy fix to reglue them. 
 
Here are some pictures of the fairing process and the sanding sticks that I used.
 

 
Next step is to start the planking.

Thank you gentlemen! Erik, for the tarred joints I use acid free black paper (craft and artists supply stores have this) and white glue. Depending on the joint I'll use thicker or thinner paper and the edges are shaved clean with a blade. I would strongly suggest preparing a test wood/paper/wood sandwich first and applying the finish you prefer as a test to make sure the paper doesn't bleed onto the wood surface. Finally, I perforate the surface of the paper between joints with a pin to make sure glue adequately penetrates through to the other side. I also make sure to use treenails or fasteners in these joints. As yet haven't had a joint failure.
 
I've also used carpenters glue tinted with aniline dye powders. This works well too but is a holy mess.