Chuck

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

I finished the first layer for the wales.  Basically I added two more strakes below the first that was added.   I show this image because its the first that gives you a good indication of what the hull will eventually look like.  This is as low as the planking will reach on the hull.   Everything you see below the wales is left unplanked and these frames will remain visible.   I do love a fully planked hull though.  Its my preference actually.  But like everyone else,  I would be crazy to cover up all of that hard work with the frames.
 
I will add two more strakes now above the wales.   They are also 7/32" wide.   Then it will be time to remove all of the top jigs.   Yippeee!!!
 
Chuck
 

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

Very nicely done Jim.   And Chris that is a lovely design and subject for a kit.  It should be a very successful seller.
 
Chuck

COMPLETED!
 
Hope you like her. On sale very soon  
 

A small batch of longboat kits is now available.  But they are going super fast....so .....
 
The masting and rigging installments will be coming really soon.   I just have to bang out a whole bunch of Winnie chapter sets first.
 
Chuck

I agree Greg.  I have always been tempted to do that on my models.   Maybe I shall on Speedwell since there are so few guns.
 

 
and another...with the same red painted treatment.
 

I agree Greg.  I have always been tempted to do that on my models.   Maybe I shall on Speedwell since there are so few guns.
 

 
and another...with the same red painted treatment.