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michael mott

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Everything posted by michael mott

  1. michael mott
    Jan, me too, and I have to deal with them. The fall would have been a smooth arc it was the chair in the way and the glass case being shattered then the sudden stop at the end that did all the damage. Good point Carl. I shall rework it. Michael
  2. michael mott
    Mike I had to follow up on your 'Chevalet de Marquetry' What a neat tool it could also be used for frames. your shop looks great. Michael
  3. michael mott
    Look good Denis, definitely finish it up. Michael
  4. michael mott
    Keith you can make them. like this. Michael
  5. michael mott
    Thanks for your thoughts on this area Druxey and Carl. Before I glue on the lifeboat deck I still needed to fix the top part of the lifeboat deck structure. I set up a flat plate that I could use as a guide for the pairing chisel. Once the damaged area was removed I fitted a new piece of maple this will get painted on the top inside edge before it gets glued in place. A lot of little steps it seems. Michael
  6. michael mott
    No scrap that Idea, that they were locators only. The headless pins are for the lifeboats. The side sheet ones are small headed pins, it will still work though, I pushed a couple of pins in partially and the side wall will lean out. So the deck will be glued first. Michael
  7. michael mott
    Druxey and Carl thinking more about this after your comments and having a closer look at the pins I think that it will be possible do something very similar the difficulty is mostly at the bow end as the next illustration shows. This come closer to what you have suggested Carl Michael
  8. michael mott
    John thanks for the compliment. I am wondering what the members think of my next issue. the following picture shows a partial cross section of the hull and side wall. What I am concerned about is the sequence of gluing the fractured part of the deck back on before I put the side on. If I do that it will be difficult to put the pins in at B the pins at at A are not a problem If I put the side back on first it become quite difficult to slip the lifeboat deck part back into place especially at the bow end. I am thinking that Possibly I could use a clear silicone glue at the base of the side wall and slide it in after the lifeboat deck is glued and set. Thoughts? Michael
  9. michael mott
    You know the Oilers are looking too shabby this year either. Michael
  10. michael mott
    Thanks for the supportive comments. Druxey.... yes its probably going to work out to 5c per hour. But I'm not really counting. Bob they appear to be a white plastic almost bone-like in color. Today I soldered the side back together. This picture shows it just resting in place, I am pleased with the fit. My third hand became a fourth this morning. I am really happy I took the time to make this tool, the control is beyond what I expected. Now for the clean up and sorting out how to reassemble back onto the deck, it was originally fitted with small pins, likely pushed in with some sort of miniature pin pusher....... why do I sense another tool needing to be made? Michael
  11. michael mott
    Hi Keith yes I am using soft solder, it is what Bassett Lowke used. I get the stitches out on Thursday. Michael
  12. michael mott
    Now that is a great attention to detail! some of us might have taken the easy route and built them at right angles to the slope. Michael
  13. michael mott
    Bob the tool will serve a number of functions, I used it today to clamp on the strip of wood that is under the metal side piece first. There was a fair chunk gouged out of the piece so I spliced in a bit of wood first, and shaped it. The I spent at least an hour walking back and forth from the shop to the clean room getting the large section of the metal side back to conforming to the side sheer of the main deck. All the clamps are set as stops to position the side the important thing was to be able to place it and have it seat properly without any pressure. once the lower section was set then I used a card template to put the proper curve back into the upper piece using the same method that I used to get all the twists out of it in the first place. Next on the list was to replace the missing posts on the upper part. On close inspection the section that was used looked a lot like some very small nickle silver "N" gauge rail so I cut up some code 70 rail filed off the head of the rail which left a t section of nickle silver basically the same size as the original posts. I used the new clamp fixture to do the soldering. Michael
  14. michael mott
    Lovely work on the restoration Wefalck. Michael
  15. michael mott
    Jeff have you tried Jellutong? it carves like butter with no discernible grain. we used it a lot in England for patterns and architectural models. sands very well too. I can give you some next time I'm in Edmonton. Michael
  16. michael mott
    I like the jig for assembling the roof beams Keith. Michael
  17. michael mott
    Beautiful work on the mast Chuck, what paint are you using for the black? Michael
  18. michael mott
    Looks great Dave. The small details just keep accumulating, bringing more and more depth to the overall look. Michael
  19. michael mott
    Thank you to all the visitors. I spent the rest of the afternoon making the top units, they were sliced off some 1 1/2 x 3/4x 1/8th thick scrap channel from the scrap box. The screws are 8x32 and the top wood is 1/4 x 1/2 x 3" Jellutong. The fracture line is visible at the moment on the dry run assembly, when it is finally tweaked ready for glue the line will hardly be visible. Have started to do some mix testing for the bottom paint color, it is also a simple way to fill the slight indents with paint Michael
  20. michael mott
    Thanks Nils today I spent some time straightening out the twisted port side sheet metalwork immediately below the boat deck. I used a combination of finger pressure and used the mill drill as an arbor press. I made a small brass yoke for the job. By using the wide mill vice I was able to flatten most of the rotated twist Then using the yoke I was able to take out the kinks that were in the vertical direction. I am going to clean it up I noticed that the paint flaked off easily as if there was no primer on the raw metal. The next task was to make some special clamps so that the boat deck can be re-glued to the ship. The deck is curved following the lines of the hull so the infrastructure will need to accommodate this aspect. The first part was to make a clamp fixture that attached to the hull, these are large U shaped wood pieces that are covered with 1/8th felt on the bottom and the starboard side to give a large contact on the base and starboard sides. These U shaped clamps have a 3/4 x 3/4 angle attached so that a horizontal bar can be adjusted to match the elevation needed for the boat deck. The horizontal bar will get some additional elements that will form a series of supports under the boat deck. I am still working out the best way to accomplish this The bar is locked with some 10x24 screws Michael
  21. michael mott
    Igor you are insane What an amazing way to capture a sense of drama. The boat passing the lighthouse rocks nearby a shift in the wind all was ok. Wonderful piece of modelwork.
  22. michael mott
    Druxey thanks for your kind comment. Gary, thanks for dropping by. This evening I used the new third hand to aid in soldering the aft stairs back together, it took a little while to get the hang of adjusting the fixture, but the control is super, I am pleased with the operational aspects of it. Did not take any pics of the actual soldering but after washing it off I used the fixed stairs to reshape the starboard handrail, the port handrail is still fixed to the lifeboat deck. So from here to here Michael
  23. michael mott
    Wefalck, I have not resolved it yet I am getting the brass wire on Monday, I have to maintain the same color as the other wires. Regarding the soldering station. I am thinking about some jaws as heat sinks and some not. Thanks for the links I will have a look when I get back from the city later tonight. Carl thanks for your feedback on the fixture. Here is the latest version Mark 3 I made a different base that is a little wider front to back, this one a scrap of fiddle-back Maple I will use the birds eye for some other tool down the road. This new configuration allows for all the screws to be tightened by hand without the Tommy bar, it also has the advantage of being able to now rotate the set up by loosening the central screws . Michael PS The doc says my shin is healing well but I am not quite out of the woods yet.
  24. michael mott
    Thanks for the thoughts about the fixture being art. Druxey, and interesting thought. The current design was something that developed as a result of the bottom locking screw being on the bottom instead of the side, and the difficulty of reaching in under the unit in the upright position. Like all tools this one is a work in progress. The use of it will no doubt induce further refinements. The first being the way the the horizontal bar is mounted. Unlike the commercial one I chose to mount the bar with a support at each end. In retrospect perhaps a central support, and higher off the base would be a better design. The old saying that "form follows function" is clearly being compromised in the present design....... I'm workin' on it. Michael
  25. michael mott
    Nils because of my own project I am seeing just how much fine work you have accomplished with this ship. The thing that just struck me though is the small size of the base on which the model is sitting. It would make me very nervous with such long overhangs. Michael

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