michael mott
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Everything posted by michael mott
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Ian, I completely understand your sentiments I think that we all go through this feeling here and there. Checking out the last few pictures of the boat, my what a wonderful job with the different colours and the finishing of them really shows off your skills. It really looks super. Michael -
Cabrapente looking at your pictures of the rigging and the detail looking toward the deck from the masts, I am not surprised that it takes years to build these models, You are doing a wonderful job on all these details. michael
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- le fleuron
- 64 gun
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Hi Bob My plan is to do just that and include as many ribbands as possible and still allow access to placing the ribs the ribs will be held in place initially with either copper wire or some heavy thread. The details if the construction of the hull are a little sketchy this picture shows the floor timbers they look at first glance to be placed over the ceiling boards, but the rivets or bolts along the bottom edge tell me that they are fixed to the ribs, these were in all likelyhood set in place before the planking which would make their installation far easier than if they were placed afterwards. I have no information about how the floors or ribs were fixed or set against the keel plate at the moment so this will need to be sorted before the ribbands are set. Work continues on the sternpost a tricky devil for me but child's play for the likes of those who carve the fantastic figure heads like the one on Johann's barge. It is good to back to cutting wood. Michael
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Thanks for the visits Nils the bulkheads will not be part of the finished model. My intention is to set the stringers in order to prepare and place the ribs the stringers will be removed as the planks are fitted. in post #56 I outlined the process. My hope is to use the Buffalo Engine to drive the launch. my thoughts are to add at least 8 or 10 ribands to each side evenly spaced. My understanding is that the ribs on the full size are 3/4 by 1/2 inch. In rereading Roger's notes there is a plate on top of the keel that is 4 inches by 3/4 inches and tapers toward the bow and stern. this plate forms the upper side of the bearding line for the planking and gives a greater area to attach the garboard strake. I am going to make the keel, keel plate, stem and sternpost out of the Castello Boxwood. I need to make the ribands strong enough to not deform when I set in the frames. something that has crossed my mind is to use some thread to hold the frames (ribs) to the ribbands while they set. The fir test frames were pretty flexible, however I am also going to test the Castello for the frames as well, they will be 3/32 x 1/16th full size on the model. The original was planked in Yellow Cyprus I am still thinking about the planks and will likely go with Costello for them as well here is a drawing showing the sections at the same stations as the form bulkheads. michael
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Lawrence thanks for your thoughts. Today The boat was retrieved from high shelf. The first task was to clean up the dust the a test fit of one of the stringers to see how well this process will work. it was apparent that the spacing of the holes for the stringer along the sheer were wrong. I also decided to add some wood to the forms, this will enable me to fix the stringers with some tiny brass screws, I also cut some new stringers. The new stringers are redwood 1/8th x 1/16 inch. The next task is to finish the shaping of the stem and sternpost. Michael
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Patrick when I look at the close ups I keep forgetting how small this model is. As so many have already mentioned focus on what you have achieved it is truly amazing. The next model is always going to be another challenge and we bring the knowledge forward from what we learned on the last, there is no such thing as perfect because there is always room to improve. Your work continues to inspire. Michael
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Nils you make it all look so easy every time I check in you have leapt ahead miles. Michael
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- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
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Absolutely superb workmanship on this Anchor I especially like how you solved the flared square section and the sizing of the bands. Michael
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- young america
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Yes the Ambient levels of humidity are the key, I had assumed a change geographically from one location to one that is temporarily low. Which likely means that unless the humidity can be kept at the same as it was when the hull was assembled in the first place, which can be an unknown unless one works in a humidity controlled environment all the time. The wood might have been assembled in a much higher humidity or the wood had not reached equilibrium before being worked into frames. The opposite danger is of course the expansion of the frames pushing against the stern and stem when encountering large changes in humidity. from say Arizona to Florida, Michael
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Ben, Looking at those last shots inside the hull tells me that the wood has definitely shrunk across the grain, do not discount the wet towel Idea, when I took the tarp off my large boat maria this spring the deck planks had done the exact same thing because of the low humidity. One of the reasons that oakum caulked boats do not like being out of the water they shrink across the planks and then leak until they swell back up. I was pouring water over the oiled planks for three days without much success then changed my strategy and laid wed towels over the deck and it all swelled back up in a day. I would expect that once the wood swells back that the other issues will also lessen. I cannot hurt and is much less work that tearing it apart. once the wood has swelled then keeping the humidity stable should hold things untill the longitudenal elements are added. Michael
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Thanks for the explanation Ed. Interesting issue with the tailstock for the brass, the use of the chuck is basically the same as using a fixed or traveling steady, that usually have three bars that fit around the work. The edges of the jaws serve the same purpose. Sometimes it is the easiest solution. Michael
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I agree with all the comments regarding the Anchor exquisite, that said I noticed that the main part of the body looks as though it is the same as the drawing underneath, and it looks like you shortened the bar that goes through. I am curious about whether the scale of the drawing is full size or you changed your mind about the bar. Michael
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Good Afternoon Druxey. Well Sir you certainly raised the bar for us all, I am just wondering though.... how are the standards raised? internal halliards? A stunning looking model all round, you are tempting me to try something small. Regards Michael
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- greenwich hospital
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A most impressive recovery, and a stunning looking yacht. Michael
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Patrick they would be taking me away in a straight jacket.... I don't know how you do it ... i just sit and shake my head. Michael
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Oh No! surely you will be finishing the ship, or perhaps you mean intermittent builder. you are doing a beautiful job on the model. Michael
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Bob, thanks for this, I am always happy to learn something new each day and this is a prize. i shall file this one away for some future projects for sure. Michael
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- pequot
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Mechanical Solar System Build Log
michael mott replied to jim_smits's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Hi Jim I just found your thread and what a wonderful project, I used to work at a science centre and planetarium in Edmonton, where special projectors were custom built before they converted to a digital projector. I spent many hours working out the gears for a Jupiter only Orrery with all its moons. I never got farther than doing the gear ratios. I love the look of your one. Michael -
Hi Patrick, kudos for reaching your milestones. I too like the shot with all three decks the volume of detail that you are able to show at this small scale is quite remarkable, The bowls of fruit in the background alway put the scale into perspective for me. Michael
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I would think that the sweeps would be set on the other axis given that the section at the thole pins are restricting the rotation of them. Other than that they look quite extraordinary. michael
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Each one of these small boats is a gem, and enjoyable to watch then evolve. Michael
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Hi Russ Great work on the decals, The spreader is a type I have seen during my perusal of masts and rigging during my own researches I wouls suspect that it is a strong design with light weight sections. Michael
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Ed your thoughts about precision are well taken. Working at such small scales requires a level of it in my view. To come close to replicating something that is often 50 to 100 times larger we forget that small measurements expand into enormous ones. We speak of the table of offsets being accurate to 1/8th which seems practical in full size lofting. We forget that that 1/8 reduced to the scale we work at as being of little consequence in some cases, it all being relative as you say. That said I personally find great satisfaction in being able to work by the numbers in most cases. This always for me brings to mind the precision of watch and clock making, which do not function properly without it. Your work on the 6 inch dead eyes is akin to that sort of precision in my view. drilling three holes in a piece of wood that is .083 inch in diameter was no doubt challenging. I take my hat off to you now thinking about threading all those lines to set the shrouds at a future date. Michael
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good morning Druxey, No I have not, My thinking was along the lines of the sewing glues that are used to hold seams together before sewing. The stuff I used on the full size sails smelled like copydex basically a latex liquid rubber type glue. I wanted to first see how the eyelets would work. Now I know. next is looking at different ways of accomplishing the tabling and panel seams. the sails will be sewn as well. Thanks for all the support regarding the show, and for the likes. Off to help with putting in the docks today. Michael
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