markjay

I know cost is relative, but if we take a look at something very pertinent, then we get a better idea:
 
Caldercraft 1:64 HMS Agamemnon. A kit that uses the legacy POB methods, with dummy barrels for the lower gun deck, nothing in the way of laser-cut/engraved parts. Many generic fittings and also the gun port positions are determined with a paper template, with the exception of quarterdeck ports that are cut into the inner bulwarks. Finishing and detail timber is generally walnut with Tanganyika for decks. Aggy also doesn't have a lower gun deck at all. The main gun deck is complete, but stops fore of a ply bulkhead so doesn't extend to stern cabin areas as they don't exist in kit. In all, Agamemnon is an amazing kit, and we've seen some fantastic builds of her. 

What does she currently retail for? £935 direct from Caldercraft. This is a kit that's now 22-23 years old.
 
Vanguard Models 1:64 HMS Indefatigable.
A kit that uses new design techniques with gun ports built into the hull framing.  Stern cabin with internal engraved details (chequered floor, panelling etc), accessible quarter galleries with seats of ease. Stern cabin windows can be posed open or closed.  Complete main gun deck with option to plug the gun carts into position so they don't come adrift accidentally. No generic parts. All guns on kit are designed to be the exact ones, printed in matt black resin, complete with George III emblems. Other 3D print parts include a proper scale belfry, Brodie Stove (in 4 parts), anchors, carronades/wheels, and also some rudder parts. 10 thicknesses of laser cut sheets. Planking will be in pear, and not walnut. There really is a price premium for going with the much better pear. Less brittle, less fibrous, finer grain and more realistic in colour. Deck planks will be either Red Alder or maple, depending on supply situation at time. To assist with painting, main gun barrels will be positioned after hull painting, and carronades are designed to retract into the hull until the externals are painted, then they can be pulled out into position! Detailed bulkhead screens for cabin. Deck beam positions are also to scale and in scale position, and do not relate to the MDF bulkhead positions. As with other VM designs, a rabbet is built into the keel, allowing easier plank positioning.  Multi-layer channels to simulate the edging of the real thing. Engraved ply sub decks to assist with planking. Five mini kits for each of the ship's boats. Laser cut acrylic window panes. Laser cut and engraved acrylic stand with two-colour nameplate. Large and heavy full colour assembly manual detailing every aspect of construction and providing tips. Of course, Aggy is a 64-gun, but is around the same size, more or less to the razée Indefatigable. Indy just loses the razed areas, but it actually longer than Aggy due to the flying jibboom. 
 
Price? Tentatively around £1000. 
A whole 23yrs after Caldercraft's kit was released.

Hi all,
I responded to Mike about the article which I hand in my file. I checked with Kurt about posting it, he in turn checked with the author. The author has granted permission to post the article. I hope it proves helpful with your decking questions. I've attached a PDF, enjoy.

Deck Planking
Forrado de cubiertas
permission to post by Ulises Victoria
first appeared in January/Enero2008

 
DECK PLANKING.pdf

Hi all.  This is Gregg from a suburb of the Kansas City MO/KS metropolitan area.  Sixteen years ago (2005), with one child just graduating college and one still in college, I decided I needed a new hobby, and purchased the Bluenose as my first ship to build.  Overwhelmed doesn't describe it.  After working on the initial basics of the ship, I put it back in the box and up on a closet shelf to be forgotten.  Sixteen years later, I am recently retired after a long accounting career, and found it buried in the back of a spare bedroom closet shelf.  Other than my meat-smoking hobby (I am, after all, living in Kansas City!), I decided to take another shot at ship building.
 
Well, after pulling it all back out, again looking at plans, reading many of the build logs on this site, etc., I decided perhaps the Bluenose was still a bit aggressive for a first build as a novice builder.  So, I have taken a few steps back and have selected the Norwegian Sailing Pram and the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smak as my first two.  Anxiously awaiting for their arrival.  But, in the meantime, preparing my workspace, checking on my tools and supplies, and continuing to read blogs and posts like these, ship building logs, videos, etc.  I am determined to make this a slow, yet progressive, journey.  And, have fun along the way.  I look forward to the journey.  Will try to keep all updated on my adventures.  Thanks!

OK, little update.
 
Designs for Indefatigable are now about 85% complete. The pictures shown are of the pre-prototype, so looks very rough as usual, as many parts have been glued, ripped off and new parts added in place - and is built for part checking only (just like Sphinx). There are still a few mistakes on this prototype model, so does not entirely reflect the final designs.
 
I have also included a drawing I did of the basic outline of what I think Indy would have looked like during most of her career. The only concession I have made is keeping the forecastle timberheads, rather than berthing up this area, with the decision based purely on aesthetics (plus the plans show this anyway.
 
What I did change is the quarter bulwarks. I know she had 7 gun ports per side and three (with spare chase port) at the bow, so the 7th port had to be worked in, and this meant altering the bulwarks to the same height. I have placed the additional 12 pounder long chase guns right at the front, as I could not see Pellew being chased, more the chaser...
 
I have tried to keep the poop profile as low as I can. Pellew didn't even want the poop at all, and would have been happy to have his cabin on the main gun deck and Indy fitted with sloop like quarter badges (would have looked odd..). With this in mind, I have kept the poop profile to a minimum, as I am sure Pellew would not have requested anything that would have increased windage. I will add 'iron stanchions' to this area, and that's it.
 
I have the bow area to design, which will be the last of the main areas, and then I need to do all the photo etched parts. (Oh, and of course, a figurehead and stern decoration - which will be minimal). For the first time, I decided to go with laser cut and engraved columns for in between all lights/windows, and I am very happy with how they turned out. Channels are made by laminating three patterns together, a wider and thicker centre and not so wide and thinner top and bottom.
 
You will be able to build this without the open slots in the decks if you so wish, they are not mandatory. The stand is 4mm acetate and a 2mm duel colour engraved nameplate.
 
ETA - Forgot to mention, I have moved the poop skylight back by 3 beams, as I realised it was too close the edge of the poop, so it is now over the great cabin, and not in the position shown.

A good friend's widow has a copy of the Historical American Merchant Marine Survey, (HAMMS) in mint condition and still with original wood crate. It weighs ~100 lbs so shipping is a problem, but she is willing to sell if you can pick up in person.  Kansas City area.  She actually had two copies but I bought the other.  Here are some pix of mine... 

I believe there were 300 copies printed, and yes a crazy cool set of books. 

Mike, I have it and I'll PM you. But I have a suggestion for the moderator... If possible can I post the article? I'm sure others would benefit from it as well. 

yeah - Illustrates the world of difference between Post Ship and a Super Frigate! (Indy being around 15 feet longer along the gun deck than standard 38's of her day)
 
Am sure it has been mentioned elsewhere, but I will be included some of BenD's excellent rope in the Indy kit, most notably the anchor hawse and the larger diameter mast stays.
 
 
Also forgot to mention, the stern name and depth markings are waterslide decals this time. Name being yellow ochre and depth markings are in white - there will be two sets for each kit (and already have them here with me), as I know mistakes can happen when applying.

I have never designed a model ship kit without mast and rig. Indy is no exception - I did mention just a couple of posts up that mast stays will have BenD's rope.

Hi all,
I responded to Mike about the article which I hand in my file. I checked with Kurt about posting it, he in turn checked with the author. The author has granted permission to post the article. I hope it proves helpful with your decking questions. I've attached a PDF, enjoy.

Deck Planking
Forrado de cubiertas
permission to post by Ulises Victoria
first appeared in January/Enero2008

 
DECK PLANKING.pdf

Hi all,
I responded to Mike about the article which I hand in my file. I checked with Kurt about posting it, he in turn checked with the author. The author has granted permission to post the article. I hope it proves helpful with your decking questions. I've attached a PDF, enjoy.

Deck Planking
Forrado de cubiertas
permission to post by Ulises Victoria
first appeared in January/Enero2008

 
DECK PLANKING.pdf

Mike, I have it and I'll PM you. But I have a suggestion for the moderator... If possible can I post the article? I'm sure others would benefit from it as well. 

Mike, are you looking for the 2008 article by Ulises Victoria? If you are, I printed it out back then be glad to share it with you if you can't find it. I just have to pull it from my files and scan it. This is for private use only.

Mike, are you looking for the 2008 article by Ulises Victoria? If you are, I printed it out back then be glad to share it with you if you can't find it. I just have to pull it from my files and scan it. This is for private use only.

OK fella's, here is the summary of the build. I did this during the pandemic so I was able to accomplish a lot over a relatively short time. As I said I do not post often but I'll try to get the images in order. I'll be glad to answer any questions

Cirdan, thank you for the like, you can order the kit directly from Woody Joe;
https://www.zootoyz.jp/contents/en-us/d2045761060_Wooden-Museum-Model-Woody-JOE.html
They are located in Japan, the shipping to the US was fast and not expensive at the time. Good company to work with and they have a nice product line.

Cirdan, thank you for the like, you can order the kit directly from Woody Joe;
https://www.zootoyz.jp/contents/en-us/d2045761060_Wooden-Museum-Model-Woody-JOE.html
They are located in Japan, the shipping to the US was fast and not expensive at the time. Good company to work with and they have a nice product line.

Cirdan, thank you for the like, you can order the kit directly from Woody Joe;
https://www.zootoyz.jp/contents/en-us/d2045761060_Wooden-Museum-Model-Woody-JOE.html
They are located in Japan, the shipping to the US was fast and not expensive at the time. Good company to work with and they have a nice product line.

OK fella's, here is the summary of the build. I did this during the pandemic so I was able to accomplish a lot over a relatively short time. As I said I do not post often but I'll try to get the images in order. I'll be glad to answer any questions

OK fella's, here is the summary of the build. I did this during the pandemic so I was able to accomplish a lot over a relatively short time. As I said I do not post often but I'll try to get the images in order. I'll be glad to answer any questions

OK fella's, here is the summary of the build. I did this during the pandemic so I was able to accomplish a lot over a relatively short time. As I said I do not post often but I'll try to get the images in order. I'll be glad to answer any questions