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Everything posted by CDW
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This concludes the general painting and assembly of the Harbor Tug. Next I will spend a couple of days (or less) adding some details and detail painting/shading/highlighting/weathering.
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JCT This is the 1st time I laid eyes on your Picket boat. Beautiful! Looks like a real 1:1 boat with all the fittings and everything. Inspirational.
- 105 replies
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Seems to me the radius at the stern (underneath the planking) is the culprit. Maybe 1 mm off, but that's all it takes to leave a gap like that.
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Indeed. My bottle is just over a year old and they already changed the label and the color of the label from blue to green. Another thing, my bottle does not say, "cleaner" on it anywhere as the bottle does in the link I provided. That concerns me a bit as to whether they may have added some cleaning agent that could potentially harm the paint underneath the clear coat. As I said earlier, I would test it first before I used it on a prize model.
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Not mere gravel, but a gravel of specific hardness and gradation. Not sure about today's, but we used the L.A. Abrasion Test as a standard for specific hardness requirements years ago. Stability is a specific standard as well, and it greatly depends on the exact gradation requirements set forth by the project design engineer. Any road designed for typical vehicular traffic could in no way match the requirements for a rail road, period.
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Super job saving that finish without destroying the decals! You got it just right. Next time you're in Walmart, look for this product: Pledge Floor Care Finish https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pledge-Floor-Gloss-Original-27-Fluid-Ounces/15136693?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=5220&adid=22222222227009393605&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40343007512&wl4=aud-566049426865:pla-78303532352&wl5=9012096&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=15136693&wl13=5220&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAqaTjBRAdEiwAOdx9xpbN0piFmDnqKWqjsw-dceZAQf4Rflm1rPZcJvnAns3eyCTJXmenrxoCP0YQAvD_BwE It is a clear acrylic. Works great to put a gloss shine on our models. Safe for decals and great to spray on before using the decals to preserve them. Will make scratched clear plastic look like/better than new. Try it on some test pieces through your airbrush. Does not need to be reduced. Cleanup with Windex with amonia. It takes a little practice to get the feel for it through the airbrush. Don't use it on your prize model until you practice first. I have used it for years (decade or more) and swear by it. A bottle will last a LONG time.
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I've bought some of it as well. It would seem wise to try out the paint first on an old model you don't care about losing if it gets screwed up. I have read that others found reducing the paint to be tricky, perhaps because they did not use AK Interactive reducer? I don't know but it's worth proceeding with caution rather than ruining an expensive model. Retarder for acrylics should work with any brand as long as it's acrylic but test it first.
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Superb, a stunning replica, Greg. Some of your best work I've seen so far. A very nice subject model as well. It looks very modern and sleek for it's time period.
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Green Elephant funny car by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
A friend and I spent quite a bit of time coming up with the right combination of decal paper and printer/ink to make our own decals for R/C model aircraft some years ago. We learned that (at that time) only certain ink jet printers made ink that was water resistant. To work properly, the ink must be water resistant. Secondly, once the decals have been printed and clear coated, then cut out with scissors, the edges of the decals must be sealed with a clear coat as well. If not, just the initial soak in water will cause the ink to begin to bleed. Yeah, I know all this is a PIA, but necessary when making our own decals. -
Rigging is such a mystery to me. It would be slow going as I would need to look up every detail to learn how it's done. You are doing a beautiful job it it.
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Have you seen the 1:35 Trumpeter German locomotive and rail gun kits? I bought the Eduard Big Ed sets for mine but to be honest about it, they would look good without the detail sets. I am just guessing, but I imagine the 1:72 Hobbyboss Dora will look great without any aftermarket. I have seriously considered buying it, too.
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I am going to try to have all the main construction and painting done tomorrow. After that, will spend a day or two detailing and weathering, then call this one a wrap. As I said at the beginning, I wanted this to be a fun little diversion and not a major project. It has indeed been fun for the small amount of money and time invested.
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Looks like the shipping box dimensions are 17.6" x 10.4" x 10.2". So I imagine the hull length is somewhere near 17" in length. I have this model in 1:350 scale and it's length is around/about 9" - 10". Not huge, but a large enough scale that it will have great detail potential. The only reservation I have about the model is that it's main construction is resin. Not my favorite medium, but it's likely this model will be a very limited production run. They're probably not investing a ton of money in molds and instead going the limited production, resin production run.
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Here, I've masked and painted the lower half of the lower superstructure red, and the funnel yellow. The red is Mr Color Acrysion flat red, the yellow is Tamiya flat yellow.
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I bought the 1:144 Revell Snowberry a few months ago, but held off on starting it until detail sets came out for it. Today, the upcoming Pontos detail set came up for pre-order and I snagged one before they get sold out. These Pontos sets come and go quickly sometimes and I didn't want to miss it. It will add a lot to the Revell Snowberry kit. https://freetimehobbies.com/1-144-pontos-model-hmcs-snowberry-flower-class-super-detail-set-for-revell-preorder/
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That ice breaker model comes complete with all the Pontos details as best I can tell.
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The hull red and black hull colors do not lend well to a defined water line. So I thought it might look better if I created a thin white later line. To do so, I cut a thin strip of white decal paper to a width that looks suitable and apply it along the waterline. The decal paper is ink jet waterslide paper sold by a company that's now defunct, Bel Decals. I was sad to learn they went tango uniform, but fortunately for me, I bought white and clear decal paper in bulk packs of 25 each, 8 1/2" x 11" sheets, before they went the way of the Dodo Bird.
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