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Everything posted by CDW
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Jack I'm late for your build thread, but enjoyed browsing through your progress. Love the subject model, so much solid history behind the Liberty Ships. Regarding your photo etch doors...I recommend trying/using acrylic glue rather than CA. 1. It allows all the time you need to adjust the position of the photo etch part and will provide a superior bond (IMHO) for flat items like doors to plastic. 2. It dries totally clear and will not mar the finish of your plastic or photo etch. 3. It's water soluble so clean up of excess glue is a breeze just using a water dampened q-tip. 4. Because it's water soluble, it's easy to remove a part if you make a mistake...even if it's dry. Gator's Grip acrylic glue works a charm for photo etch. A small bottle of it lasts a very long time, years even. Regarding your air brush issues...is yours a siphon feed or gravity feed air brush?
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- trumpeter
- john brown
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Thanks Richmond. I used Mr Color Metal Aluminum on the engine cylinders and crank case, with Vallejo black ink for a wash to bring out the cooling fin details. Tamiya gloss black on the intake manifold and rocker covers. I used Mr. Color Metal Iron to dry brush the black manifold and rocker covers. For most of this model (maybe all?), I will be using Mr Color Acrysion, Mr Color Metal, Tamiya paints and some Vallejo washes. Will use Pledge Floor Care as a generic acrylic gloss clear coat where necessary before washes.
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That's great that Testors is making an affordable airbrush most anyone can acquire. Things like this help grow the hobby as similar items that higher priced can discourage people from even giving the hobby a try. I remember well when airbrushes seemed out of reach for me from a financial standpoint. I admired them and those that used them, but just couldn't afford and/or justify the expense to acquire one. Painted everything with a brush and rattle cans for a long time.
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While Zoukei-Mura is the sole provider of this and other photo etch update sets for this model, the sets are actually produced by Eduard. As far as I can determine, there is no logical reason why Eduard chooses to use stainless steel vs: brass on their photo etch sets. I am not a fan of stainless steel photo etch for the most part, and not a fan of Eduard for that matter. The sets are way over priced for what you get as are Eduard products in general. And yes, a 90 degree bend in stainless steel is very likely to result in breakage.
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It's one of the better builds of the old Revell Constitution I have ever seen. Looks positively excellent. The addition of the various detail sets paid off in spades.
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- constitution
- revell
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Most of your old Revell kits came with movable parts...doors, hoods, trunks, steering. Getting the parts to work without breaking them was always the trick. Opening doors often had huge gaps around the doors that looked horrible. About the most foolproof working part/s were the metal axles that came with AMT kits. Plastic axles never lasted very long once you rolled them.
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My big brother was an extraordinary mechanic and a hot-rodder from way back. Learned almost everything I knew about mechanics from him and his friends. Because he worked at a local garage, I got first pick on so many great 2nd hand car deals. Funny how we can look back to realize how good we had it and didn't even know it at the time. For $40, I bought a '58 Bonneville convertible that only needed a water pump. For $40, bought a '63 Fairlane 2 door HT with a 260 V8. It had a cracked front windshield that I replaced with a 2nd hand one from the junk yard. I bought a '63 Nova for $90, he and I rebuilt the whole car...drove that thing over 100,000 trouble-free miles. It had the big GM straight six and a powerglide tranny. Most reliable and best transportation car I ever owned.
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I once bought a promo model for the new 1966 Mustang Fastback from the local Ford Dealer. It was 1:12 scale. Had working headlights/tail lights, too. That was one of those models I should have held onto. Before that, I had a 1:8 scale model of a Jaguar, pre-XKE. Everything worked on that model and included a removable engine. That was another keeper, but I was too young to know I should save it.
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But I must admit, I enjoyed the whole Pirates of the Caribbean series as much or more than anything else I have seen for a long time. Very entertaining, light hearted, and the musical scores were great!
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Maybe since the 1:1 ship is a fictional movie prop, not an historical sailing vessel replica, certain artistic liberties are taken to simplify the construction of it yet still look authentic to a certain degree for the average person/movie enthusiast. In that case, functional gun ports would not be an issue that would warrant excessive spending to achieve. Let's face it, the average person is not well informed at all on early sailing vessels. A reasonable facsimile is good enough for a Disney pirate flick. Johnny Depp as Jack Sparrow is ample evidence of that.
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If you get into more than a single model car project, you might want to consider buying: 1. Molotow chrome paint marker (easy to find on Amazon), and 2. A gallon jug of Super Clean product from Wally World, in the automotive section. The Molotow chrome paint markers come in various tip sizes and recreates "chrome" splendidly. Even if you don't do much or any model cars, this will come in handy when you want a highly polished metal appearance. The Super Clean will strip chrome off plastic parts faster than you can say, Bob's your uncle. It is also an excellent model paint stripper, and safe on plastics even clear parts. It's normal use is as a degreaser and is excellent for that, but just remember, it will remove paint so you have to be careful where you use it. I always wear latex gloves if I have to get my hands in it as it will really do some unpleasant weird things to bare skin. It's great to see you doing this old funny car. Will enjoy following your build of it.
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My guess is that it will be quite a while. After all this time, there are not a lot of detail sets for the 1:200 Hornet.
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