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CDW
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One other tip about photo etch. If you use CA, and the excess glue becomes smeared on the surrounding plastic or on top of your photo etch, use a Q Tip dampened with CA debonder to remove the excess. Only use enough debonder on the Q Tip to dampen, not saturate it. Too much obviously may cause your part to become unfastened.- 106 replies
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With a siphon feed airbrush, an often overlooked source of flow blockage comes when the tiny vent hole on top of the jar lid is blocked, but my first guess would be your percentage of reducer : paint is too low. In that case, the siphon is not capable of pulling the mixture through the feeder tube. I have never used Life Color paints so I don't know the viscosity you're starting with. Sometimes, even a 50 : 50 mix of paint to reducer is too low and you may have to simply increase the percentage amount of reducer until it will flow through. I am using the same bottle of Gator's Grip glue for almost three years now. Since it's water based, you'll need to keep it at/near room temperature. Over time it will thicken, just add distilled water to reduce it to the viscosity you want.
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Jack I'm late for your build thread, but enjoyed browsing through your progress. Love the subject model, so much solid history behind the Liberty Ships. Regarding your photo etch doors...I recommend trying/using acrylic glue rather than CA. 1. It allows all the time you need to adjust the position of the photo etch part and will provide a superior bond (IMHO) for flat items like doors to plastic. 2. It dries totally clear and will not mar the finish of your plastic or photo etch. 3. It's water soluble so clean up of excess glue is a breeze just using a water dampened q-tip. 4. Because it's water soluble, it's easy to remove a part if you make a mistake...even if it's dry. Gator's Grip acrylic glue works a charm for photo etch. A small bottle of it lasts a very long time, years even. Regarding your air brush issues...is yours a siphon feed or gravity feed air brush?
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This just about wraps up engine painting and construction. Maybe a few touch-ups here and there, and I'm rather certain the exhaust system will need a tweak to get them to fit the exits properly once the engine is placed inside the fuselage airframe.
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That looks amazing! Will be giving those powders a try very soon. A Z-M P-51D screams for that as a NMF.
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Thanks Richmond. I used Mr Color Metal Aluminum on the engine cylinders and crank case, with Vallejo black ink for a wash to bring out the cooling fin details. Tamiya gloss black on the intake manifold and rocker covers. I used Mr. Color Metal Iron to dry brush the black manifold and rocker covers. For most of this model (maybe all?), I will be using Mr Color Acrysion, Mr Color Metal, Tamiya paints and some Vallejo washes. Will use Pledge Floor Care as a generic acrylic gloss clear coat where necessary before washes.
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While I was wearing my Optivisor, filing away a sprue burr from a photo etch part, realized the photo etch is not stainless steel, but rather it is brass with some type of sliver colored plating or coating. Don't know what the plating is all about. Maybe to keep the brass from becoming tarnished?
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That gloss finish looks great from my view of it. If there is a flaw, I can't see it. What brand of paint are you using. Is it Testors enamel?
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That's great that Testors is making an affordable airbrush most anyone can acquire. Things like this help grow the hobby as similar items that higher priced can discourage people from even giving the hobby a try. I remember well when airbrushes seemed out of reach for me from a financial standpoint. I admired them and those that used them, but just couldn't afford and/or justify the expense to acquire one. Painted everything with a brush and rattle cans for a long time.
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Thanks for stopping by, Denis!...and for the nice comments. You didn't get the tee shirt? Well, at least you were warned to do it when the admiral and children were not in the room in view of your monitor. I was caught totally by surprise. 😎
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While Zoukei-Mura is the sole provider of this and other photo etch update sets for this model, the sets are actually produced by Eduard. As far as I can determine, there is no logical reason why Eduard chooses to use stainless steel vs: brass on their photo etch sets. I am not a fan of stainless steel photo etch for the most part, and not a fan of Eduard for that matter. The sets are way over priced for what you get as are Eduard products in general. And yes, a 90 degree bend in stainless steel is very likely to result in breakage.
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It's one of the better builds of the old Revell Constitution I have ever seen. Looks positively excellent. The addition of the various detail sets paid off in spades.
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With the workshop counters cleaned up, Attention is now focused on building the 18 cylinder radial engine. Here in these photos, you can see the photo etch ignition wiring while it is being threaded to the appropriate cylinders.
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Most of your old Revell kits came with movable parts...doors, hoods, trunks, steering. Getting the parts to work without breaking them was always the trick. Opening doors often had huge gaps around the doors that looked horrible. About the most foolproof working part/s were the metal axles that came with AMT kits. Plastic axles never lasted very long once you rolled them.
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Here were some of the first funny cars I remember: The Little Red Wagon was an IMC kit. The Hurst Hairy Olds a Monogram kit, and if I remember correctly, the Hemi Under Glass an MPC kit. Last time I looked, Lindberg kitted the LRW. The others I have not seen in kit form for many years.
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Sold! Payment received. Will go out in the mail to you tomorrow.
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1:98 Corel HMS Victory Cross Section Kit is complete, not started in any way. Everything still inside it's original packaging. Offered for $75 shipped to your address in the lower 48 states. Elsewhere, I will need to get you a quote for postage. Payment via Paypal. PM me if you are interested.
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My big brother was an extraordinary mechanic and a hot-rodder from way back. Learned almost everything I knew about mechanics from him and his friends. Because he worked at a local garage, I got first pick on so many great 2nd hand car deals. Funny how we can look back to realize how good we had it and didn't even know it at the time. For $40, I bought a '58 Bonneville convertible that only needed a water pump. For $40, bought a '63 Fairlane 2 door HT with a 260 V8. It had a cracked front windshield that I replaced with a 2nd hand one from the junk yard. I bought a '63 Nova for $90, he and I rebuilt the whole car...drove that thing over 100,000 trouble-free miles. It had the big GM straight six and a powerglide tranny. Most reliable and best transportation car I ever owned.
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I learned very early that hot rodding was mostly (only) affordable with a Chevy. Ford, Mopar, Buick. Oldsmobilt, Pontiac, all = super expensive for performance items back then.
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I once bought a promo model for the new 1966 Mustang Fastback from the local Ford Dealer. It was 1:12 scale. Had working headlights/tail lights, too. That was one of those models I should have held onto. Before that, I had a 1:8 scale model of a Jaguar, pre-XKE. Everything worked on that model and included a removable engine. That was another keeper, but I was too young to know I should save it.
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But I must admit, I enjoyed the whole Pirates of the Caribbean series as much or more than anything else I have seen for a long time. Very entertaining, light hearted, and the musical scores were great!
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Maybe since the 1:1 ship is a fictional movie prop, not an historical sailing vessel replica, certain artistic liberties are taken to simplify the construction of it yet still look authentic to a certain degree for the average person/movie enthusiast. In that case, functional gun ports would not be an issue that would warrant excessive spending to achieve. Let's face it, the average person is not well informed at all on early sailing vessels. A reasonable facsimile is good enough for a Disney pirate flick. Johnny Depp as Jack Sparrow is ample evidence of that.
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As a teen, the local drag strips were my favorite hangout on weekends. Won many, many stock class trophies with my '55 Chevy Bel Air. Mom was posed beside it here.
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If you get into more than a single model car project, you might want to consider buying: 1. Molotow chrome paint marker (easy to find on Amazon), and 2. A gallon jug of Super Clean product from Wally World, in the automotive section. The Molotow chrome paint markers come in various tip sizes and recreates "chrome" splendidly. Even if you don't do much or any model cars, this will come in handy when you want a highly polished metal appearance. The Super Clean will strip chrome off plastic parts faster than you can say, Bob's your uncle. It is also an excellent model paint stripper, and safe on plastics even clear parts. It's normal use is as a degreaser and is excellent for that, but just remember, it will remove paint so you have to be careful where you use it. I always wear latex gloves if I have to get my hands in it as it will really do some unpleasant weird things to bare skin. It's great to see you doing this old funny car. Will enjoy following your build of it.
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