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Everything posted by CDW
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Morning Gentlemen, Having some experience with building the DeAgostini Victory, I can tell you that sanding/filing some bulkheads to shape is common. Yes, I would say it is an error in the way it was cut, but they expect the modeler to correct it themselves by either filing and/or sanding it to the correct shape when it becomes time to plank the model. I experienced the exact same thing with my Victory. Not a big deal to correct, really. Regards Craig
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- deagostini
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I love the way those turrets came out. Beautiful.
- 342 replies
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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I recently subscribed to Flory Models modeling website. Man, that gentleman does good work. I wish I had subscribed to his site before I started a couple of my recent models, including this Scharnhorst. Some of the tips and tricks I have learned from his tutorials could have really helped me along the way. It's been such a long time since I was really "into" the hobby, I lost touch with many new techniques and products. Particularly the sequence of construction and painting. Oh well, I am just happy I am still learning something.
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How do you think a finished HMS Duke of York will look sitting next to a finished Scharnhorst as a display?
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soldering iron or torch? advice please
CDW replied to Mark Pearse's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Here in the USA, those little butane gas fuel containers we use to fill our micro torches and/or cigarette lighters have become very hard to find. Stores that used to carry them in inventory no longer stock them. When I do find someone who has them in stock, I buy as many as I can and keep them for future use. I agree with what most here have said. Use a micro torch and solder rather than a soldering iron for this job. -
Wow, I feel your pain. Have been there and done that before. Maybe take a break from it for a while and do something different to break the cycle. Then when you come back to it, do it with a fresh start type of attitude. Given some time to think about it a while, you'll probably think of some creative ways to fix things up and all will be good again.
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Along with the 2 part epoxy and cyanoacrylate glues, I most often use the original formula of Titebond rather then the new formula Titebond. Why? Because it is not waterproof. Over the course of my model building career, I have learned I am prone to making mistakes from time to time. By using the original formula glue, I can take it back apart if I need to do so by slightly moistening the area with water. This has saved my projects many times. Of course, there are times when a water resistant or waterproof glue is a must.
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A good friend of mine owned a hobby shop for a long time. He is a great builder as well. When I first started looking at wooden decks for plastic ship models, he recommended I buy Artwox over other brands. I didn't know why and didn't question it. Maybe this is why? I'll have to ask him when I see him again.
- 75 replies
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That chain built link by link is a testament to the patience of Greg. Outstanding! You get an A+ for that.
- 342 replies
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- dreadnought
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What was different about the 3rd build. Was the deck concave or any other peculiarities? Were the decks all from the same mfg.?
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Greg It's good to know the wooden deck can be removed if necessary. It's hard as heck to get it lined up perfectly. Where the deck lifts and using super glue to secure it to the deck...it seems like you don't notice it lifting until a day or so after it's initially put in place. At least that's what I have noticed this first time using the wooden deck. There are a couple of places where it wants to lift. Will use the technique you described. Thanks!
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Your model is simply stunning. Great work and a fun thread to look through. Only wish I had found it sooner, but will tag along from now on. I had no idea the Zvezda kit was this nice a place to start. That company has come a long way it seems. I remember some pretty rough pieces from them some years back. Cheers!
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I finished quite a bit of the superstructure work, but there remains lots of little details to be added. Also, applied the wooden deck material. What I have pictured here are the major superstructure sub assemblies sitting on top of the deck, not glued down. As well, the deck is just sitting in place, not glued. What I intend to do is to begin painting the camouflage pattern on the hull, then put some of that pattern on the superstructure pieces as required before gluing them in place on the deck. I have them painted in the major colors required, but they need that final touch. As well, there remain a bunch of details to add, including railings, guns, life boats, rafts, search lights, etc., etc. If anyone sees something I need to do differently or add, please let me know. I am always open to constructive criticism. This is the first time I have used that self adhesive wood decking. It's a little tricky getting it in the exact place you want it while it wants to stick to everything in near proximity whether you want it to or not. And once it is stuck down, I doubt it could be removed without completely destroying it.
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Airbrush
CDW replied to Mike Dowling's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Dear Kurt I agreed and will not again use terms to suggest something is an illegal copy, thus legitimizing the illegal sale of a copy. However, I used those terms very loosely in this context. In fact, I was careless in the use of those terms. I am certain that if you hold side by side the parts of the Harbor Freight airbrush with the Iwata airbrush to compare the two, they are most definitely different. They are not the same, they are not a copy. The reason I am certain, I own both airbrushes. If you wish, I can make a pictorial comparison between the two, but I think what you are after is even the suggestion that an item for sale might be an illegal copy. Am I correct? I can not argue the quality of the Harbor Freight product is equal to an Iwata. It's not. But what I have found is that with some fairly simple modifications that I can do at home to improve it, my Harbor Freight airbrush is quite capable of doing an impressive paint job. On a par with Iwata, or other name brand airbrush products. In any event, you have my most humble apology for using terms that are sensitive in nature on this forum. None of us should hold lightly or condone any type of illegal activity, in particular in this context, copyright infringement. I certainly do not. Best Regards -
I'm going to be posting some new photos very soon. But before I post new photos, I just wanted to say how critically important it is with this model to carefully test fit and look ahead in the instructions to see more clearly exactly how the parts are intended to go together. This is specifically true where various sub assemblies go together to make a final major assembly but its not limited to just and only that. Part of the problem here I think is that the model is very complex. The instructions offer no verbiage whatsoever, but only some types of "universal" (I'm assuming) symbols that are not intuitive. Unfortunately, no part of the instructions give any indication of the meaning of these symbols. Some parts of various sub assemblies require that certain parts be installed only after the sub assemblies have been put in place. But the problem is that nowhere in the instructions are you warned of this. You only learn after you have either gone through much labor in testing and/or trial and error. This is not intended to scare anyone away from building this beautiful kit as the results are worth the effort. But it's just a word to the wise. This is not your 1950's-1970's Monogram/Revell/Airfix kit by any stretch of the imagination.
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James I love your choice of the Norden for a first build. Your work so far looks spectacular, like you have been doing this for a long time. Keep up the good work and please, keep posting updates with more photos. Craig
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- billing boats
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Wow, I hope all that machine shop and it's tools were not scrapped, too. But probably they were. I've heard stories about all the equipment that was tossed overboard after WW2 was over. Kinda gives you an uneasy feeling in the pit of your stomach, doesn't it?
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- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
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Dozens upon dozens of parts went into constructing this part of the superstructure. Still need to add some small assemblies (guns, range finders, masts, and search lights) before this little sub section is completed. This was my first foray into the adhesive backed wooden decks. The ones seen here came with the Art Vox deck set. Everything else is right out of the kit box, including the photo etch pieces. It's amazing and at the same time tedious how they have broken down the smallest parts into multi piece assemblies. Even the little doors are separately molded plastic.
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Well I have to tell you, the instructions for the Pontos Essex set is less than stellar to put it mildly. But I am lucky. A friend gave me the Trumpeter Essex kit along with a great photo packed book on Essex class carriers. The book should help me where it can be hard to identify from the instructions where some of the small parts go.
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