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CDW
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That's disappointing to hear. My Akagi instructions are also nowhere near as nice as the Victory instructions. However, the model seems to be unique and I can find no other production of it by another company name. It may be exclusive.
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Working on the same task right now...cutting the gun ports in my 1:84 Victory. Have found that drilling a number of small holes, then cutting/trimming to the pencil lines with a sharp X-Acto blade, then finishing off with a sanding stick, is the best solution I've found to tackle the job. Have found it is very important to keep a sharp blade in the knife. Change them often. If you even think the blade might be getting dull, it is dull. Change it. A sharp blade makes the job so much better. After about 5 ports are cut, it's time to change the blade. I know that makes for a lot of blades used, but it's worth it in the long run. Your model looks great! Regards Craig -
Go into any discount beauty supply store and buy several different sizes and grit emery boards. They make a perfect sanding tool, are cheap, and very effective. PS: I am now working on cutting the gun ports on my 1:84 scale HMS Victory. What I do 1st is to drill a number of small holes inside the port which eliminates a whole lot of tedious cutting and leaves mainly, just some 'trimming to the outlines' of the port. The sanding is the very final way to clean up each edge to the lines, checking along the way to make sure I'm staying within the desired dimensions.
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I want both, a good bandsaw and a good scroll saw. But what I really need first is a new out-building to keep those power tools inside. I don't like having my model building area in the same room as my power tools primarily because of all the dust they create. Right now, I have everything all jammed into one room/area, and that's not good.
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I need to think about the big-picture for my models. A single display case is not enough, so I am thinking if I can find something that will be 'modular' in nature, that would be my best bet. And like you said, display case lighting is something to consider as well. I am going to check out the Abordage website. Your case looked great.
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The case you ordered and assembled for the Victory looked stunning. It's a bit of sticker-shock to learn the cost of a display case is almost twice the cost of the actual model. But it is what it is. Soon, I will have to face the same dilemma on how to display my Victory. Hmmm....decisions, decisions. Craig
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Mike Thanks for your reply. The closed ports in those locations nearest the bow make sense. However, at this stage of construction, my instruction manuals show the ports being cut open, into the planking. I assume that perhaps they will end up being closed like yours after final construction. Are you a lifetime resident of Mt Dora? Many years ago, my two oldest siblings attended a private boarding school there. They often spoke of the good memories and friends they met while going to school there. They worked the fields in the summers when school was not in session. Probably something that's unheard of today. Regards Craig
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Copyright - beware
CDW replied to dvm27's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Now here is another layman's take on it...if the original artist or owner does not take action to stop illegal use of their copyright material, they can actually lose their rights to it. At least that's what I've been given to understand when asking why it's so hard these days to find some of the original company logo decals for particular types of scale models. The mfg. must get permission from the company who owns the rights to whatever it is. Ford, Chevrolet, etc. -
Hi Mike A great build thread, and a happy ending for the Victory. Sharing it with others at the Public Library is a fine gesture and gives ship modelers a reputation boost for doing that. Kudos! I am currently building the Model Space version of this kit, which I believe is identical in most respects (if not all) to your AL version. Have just laid the first six planks on each side of the ship, marked the gun ports, and will drill then cut them out next. My question is, what will the dummy guns fasten to in the two gun ports (port and starboard) closest to the bow? Inside all the other gun ports, it's obvious the drill must make a hole in the board behind each port. But the two forward ports closest to the bow have no such board behind them. Did you add something for the dummy gun barrels to attach to? Regards Craig
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I can't say for sure, but from what I can see, it seems they repackage the original kit parts in their own bags with construction numbering sequence. One thing about the De Agostini (Model Space) kits, they give beautifully illustrated manuals for each construction phase chock full of full color photographs and historical data/specifications. The collection of manuals will be a nice addition to my library when it's all done. Also, they claim they will happily replace any lost or broken parts, but I have yet to need to challenge the offer. Their customer service line is always easy to reach and seem helpful. For someone like me, who is getting back into the hobby after a long hiatus, their detailed instructions are a plus. Craig PS: The 1:250 Akagi kit might be an exclusive item. I have not found reference to any other Mfg. of the kit anywhere on the net. The same may be true for the 1:250 Yamato, but it's not available in the USA as far as I know. If it comes available, just may pop for that one. The 1:200 plastic kit of the Yamato is in the same price range as the Model Space kit.
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Gaetan How easy is it to change the blade on the Hegner saw? I watched a YouTube video for the Excalibur saw, and really liked the fact that the saw frame is hinged, so it raises to change the blade quickly. In the video, the owner has a cup of coffee sitting on the cutting table while the saw is running full speed. There is no vibration whatsoever showing on the cup of coffee. Craig
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Copyright - beware
CDW replied to dvm27's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
What a litigious world we live in today. Lots of land mines out there, for sure. While I'm no lawyer, I wouldn't be surprised if some people/companies use strong-arm tactics to extort money from people whether the law would actually support their claims or not. Just the threat of having to defend yourself in a lawsuit is enough to cause many of us to pay off, just to mitigate the damage. It is well known there are many such companies out there who will do exactly that. All that being said, the most sage advice is likely what the previous poster just said...unless you took the picture yourself, don't post it. Craig -
My plan is for a new Excalibur scroll saw, next. No more 'cheap' scroll saws for me. They have only brought me aggravation and very low quality work. They're loud, they shake, and cannot make accurate cuts. I am ready to throw the el-cheapo scroll saw I own in a dumpster or give it to the scrap man. I'm better off cutting by hand rather than using this cheap, under-performing saw.
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That's turning out real nice, Mike. I once owned that kit some years ago, then sold it when I needed to relocate some inventory in my garage. Wish I had kept it along with a number of other, hard to find model ship kits. The price of those have gone up quite a bit since I first bought one years ago. Regards Craig
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Paul Does the deck use a contact cement that's been pre-applied, or is it something else? In one thread, I saw the modeler slightly peel the paper backing from the bottom of the deck and then get it started. As he aligned it, he slowly peeled the backing away, pressing the deck down as he went. Was that your experience with applying the deck? Craig
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In my plastic ship model stash, I have a number kits that have been around and in my possession quite a few years. One is the 1:350 Trumpeter USS Essex carrier; another is the 1:350 Tamiya King George V. Just to get some experience on a less expensive model first, I may buy a wood deck for the KGV and do it first, just for practice. That way, if I make mistakes I won't feel so badly about it. With that kit, I also have an old Gold Medal PE set, and a set of metal gun barrels and props. It should be good experience and practice before tackling the Iowa. I have realized the Pontos detail set for the Essex is maybe just as complex as the Iowa. So I won't try that kit first. Craig
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Buying an Expensive Kit and throwing most of it away
CDW replied to pirozzi's topic in Wood ship model kits
Being a long-time modeler, and looking at the big picture with 20-20 hindsight...if I had it to do all over again, would concentrate my initial efforts on acquiring good quality tools, such as saws, clamps, a lathe, a planer, a good scroll saw, etc. All this would be in anticipation of scratch building. It is so rewarding and satisfying to build from scratch. Alas...the temptation to buy instant gratification through a kit has always been so great, I failed to take the time and develop the discipline to acquire the proper tools, first. But then again, I mostly did the best I knew how at the time and only realized the better scratch-building solution after years went by. Most important thing is to have fun and don't make the hobby a job. It should be a pleasure, not a source of frustration and regret. A guy can have a lot of fun with kits. I know, because I have. Regards Craig -
Denis, What a great story - and an excellent looking little model. Those grandsons are going to be thrilled! Craig
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Buying an Expensive Kit and throwing most of it away
CDW replied to pirozzi's topic in Wood ship model kits
This is SO true. Since coming back to this site after many years away, it's an invaluable resource to learn, or in many cases, relearn, what it is I do not know or have otherwise forgotten. Did not know until last night that the DeAgostini kits of the Victory and Surprise were actually the AL kits....which can be bought for half the price! -
I just found this thread. FYI, I have two of the Model Space kit subscriptions. The HMS Victory and the Japanese WW2 1:250 scale Aircraft Carrier, Akagi. I am at month 6 with the Victory and month 5 with the Akagi. Both kits are very good quality. The support of high quality construction videos and excellent construction manuals make the progression of each build very well explained with loads of full color photographs. The manuals also contain a lot of historical information and photos. I am very well pleased with both models. I do wish the Yamato was offered in the USA. Maybe one day soon?
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Do you have a little strip cutter? It's a plastic tool that uses a #11 X-Acto blade. The blade adjusts vertically for the depth of cut (thickness of material) and a screw adjusts the width of the cut. It allows you to buy sheet material and quickly cut your own strips for planking or other uses. Comes in very handy; I use mine a LOT. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAA63&P=ML Through National Balsa, you can buy some exotic 1/32 sheets of wood, then use the strip tool to cut your own strips. That can also save you a lot of money when you're on a budget. I will often double plank using a thin veneer (1/32) for the final finish. I just use contact cement to apply them to the planking after the entire model is planked.
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Old Man Try these guys out for your wood supplies. Their prices are very reasonable and you'll stretch your dollars a lot further buying from them rather than the variety store. http://www.nationalbalsa.com/ Regards Craig
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Buying an Expensive Kit and throwing most of it away
CDW replied to pirozzi's topic in Wood ship model kits
My foray into golf ended when I was 18 years old. I made a mighty, smooth swing with a driver.....and promptly lost my grip, tossed the club about 300 yards. After suffering much laughter from onlookers and a stern tongue lashing from my football coach (who thought I did it on purpose), never picked up a set of clubs again. -
I apologize in advance for the really poor quality of my photos. Just don't have the appropriate setup yet to do them as they should be done. But here is the Fletcher with all but maybe some minor weathering that I might do in the future. Haven't decided for sure yet. The sailor figures came from Shapeways...the people who do the 3D printing. I bought a set in battle gear as well as a set in normal sailor dress. The figures used are the battle gear set. For now, am going to call this one done. It was a good choice for me to get back into the hobby after a long hiatus. When you return to the hobby after a long time, you realize just how much you've forgotten. The good news is, most of it comes back into memory quickly after that first kit gets put under your belt. In retrospect, I could have done a much better job of planning my construction sequence and completed a much better paint job. I got much too far ahead of myself in construction and that limited what I could do to achieve an authentic paint scheme. But as it is, it's easy on the eyes and looks rather convincing to most anyone I know who sees it, as most do not know even a fraction of what is is/is not authentic with respect to paint schemes and such unless perhaps they actually served on that or a similar ship.
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Buying an Expensive Kit and throwing most of it away
CDW replied to pirozzi's topic in Wood ship model kits
At least it's not quite as bad as what I have been guilty of doing in the past...buying expensive kits and letting them sit on a shelf until some parts and plans became ruined. In some cases, have lost entire kits for one reason or another.
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