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Everything posted by CDW
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Work station clutter
CDW replied to Senior ole salt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ha - A day or two ago, I rushed into our bedroom, frantically looking for my cell phone as I needed it to look up an address. My wife asks what I am looking for, and I answer, "my cell phone." She sorts of laughs and at the same time looks at me with consternation while saying, "it's in your hand and you're talking on it, dummy." Sadly, that's another true story. Regards Craig -
Thanks guys. I will definitely wait until I read some reviews, first. A friend has a very good, old, high quality lathe he wants me to have, so I will go with that instead. The "multi-tool" part of the subject tool would just be more of a novelty than actually practical from the way it sounds. If it is low quality on top of that, then it would be a total waste of money. Regards Craig
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I recently became aware of this 8-in-1 power tool that's now available in warehouses in the USA, offered by Hobby King. Like most of their products, it's probably made in China. But I am wondering if it might serve useful as a ship modeling tool, being 8-in-1. Right now, I do not own a lathe, and am curious if it might prove useful for the various times when I could use a lathe to fashion certain ship hardware and wooden parts. All the other functions would be icing on the cake for me. Does anyone here have any first hand knowledge of the machine or otherwise have enough power tool knowledge to assess its usefulness by the given product specs? Sadly, I don't have enough knowledge or experience to give it a fair hearing just based on the specs. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__87843__Big_Power_Mini_Metal_8_In_1_Kit_HK_US_Plug_US_Warehouse_.html Thanks Craig
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These are the #11 blades I buy for my X-Acto handles. $14.99 for 100, and made in the USA. They hold a great edge and are cheap at .15 cents each. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL447&P=0 For cutting lighter items such as fabric or certain light plastics/mylar, I prefer high-carbon surgical scalpel blades. However, I find these surgical scalpels a little on the light side for wood working projects unless it's very light balsa or similar. But beware! They are very, very sharp! http://www.havels.com/original-carbon-steel-surgical-scalpel-blades-sc11.html Craig
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So, what do you think, Mike. Is it cutting out the ports or the cutting and fitting of the port liners that most closely resemble "watching paint dry"? I know these are necessary steps in the construction of our model ships, but man, it can be a real drag. Take care of that thumb, Mike. The ship is looking great! Craig
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Well, darn it. I'll just have to drink beer on St Patty's Day now that cabbage is in short supply. Or maybe a good Irish whiskey.
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I've been wondering, what exactly is that wood used for the planking on the Victory model? In the past, AL models I built employed a double planking, and the first planks were Limewood. But these don't seem to be Limewood, but something much harder. I love the way your Montanes is coming out. Craig
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I know the feeling well. Having just finished cutting all those gun ports on my Victory model, I am ready for a little R&R.
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The new (or old) Victory Colours
CDW replied to JRB9019's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Historical or not, I am just not fond of the "new" color. Based on personal preference and not the science of paint color analysis, I will choose the "old" color for mine. Besides, 99.9% of the people I know who may see my model, won't care one whit whether the color is perfectly historical or not, neither will they know the difference. Especially if they just glance at it while riding past on a galloping horse. -
Thanks for clarifying that, Mike. Everything you said makes perfect sense. One thing I'm finding particularly annoying is the lack of plans in the Model Space version of this kit. As you can imagine, you often find yourself flying by the seat of your pants because you cannot "see" the dimensions or other particulars that come in later stages, because the parts packs are sent out one month at a time. Right now, I have no idea what size wood will be provided for the gun port linings.
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Mike I read where you enlarged the gun ports on your Victory, but didn't see where you stated the dimensions of the enlarged openings. The plans call for 12 mm x 12 mm openings, so do you recall what your modified gun ports measured? If I can avoid it, I would like to modify mine now, before I do the linings. Regards Craig
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Brian I haven't started any construction on it at all. Everything is still in the delivery packages. You're looking for construction progress photos I assume. Right? Regards Craig
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I got my first model when I was about 5 years of age. I put it together over and over again using scotch tape. Loved that 1st model. Here I am now at 62 years of age, and I've advanced to actually using glue, but I still love it! When I get tired of it (building models), I put it down and do something else for a while. I always come back to it later when I feel like it. And it always keeps me happy, no matter how much attention to detail I place in it. But that's just me.
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Sal Such a great-looking model. You are doing an outstanding job on it. Regards Craig
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That's disappointing to hear. My Akagi instructions are also nowhere near as nice as the Victory instructions. However, the model seems to be unique and I can find no other production of it by another company name. It may be exclusive.
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Working on the same task right now...cutting the gun ports in my 1:84 Victory. Have found that drilling a number of small holes, then cutting/trimming to the pencil lines with a sharp X-Acto blade, then finishing off with a sanding stick, is the best solution I've found to tackle the job. Have found it is very important to keep a sharp blade in the knife. Change them often. If you even think the blade might be getting dull, it is dull. Change it. A sharp blade makes the job so much better. After about 5 ports are cut, it's time to change the blade. I know that makes for a lot of blades used, but it's worth it in the long run. Your model looks great! Regards Craig
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Go into any discount beauty supply store and buy several different sizes and grit emery boards. They make a perfect sanding tool, are cheap, and very effective. PS: I am now working on cutting the gun ports on my 1:84 scale HMS Victory. What I do 1st is to drill a number of small holes inside the port which eliminates a whole lot of tedious cutting and leaves mainly, just some 'trimming to the outlines' of the port. The sanding is the very final way to clean up each edge to the lines, checking along the way to make sure I'm staying within the desired dimensions.
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I want both, a good bandsaw and a good scroll saw. But what I really need first is a new out-building to keep those power tools inside. I don't like having my model building area in the same room as my power tools primarily because of all the dust they create. Right now, I have everything all jammed into one room/area, and that's not good.
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I need to think about the big-picture for my models. A single display case is not enough, so I am thinking if I can find something that will be 'modular' in nature, that would be my best bet. And like you said, display case lighting is something to consider as well. I am going to check out the Abordage website. Your case looked great.
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The case you ordered and assembled for the Victory looked stunning. It's a bit of sticker-shock to learn the cost of a display case is almost twice the cost of the actual model. But it is what it is. Soon, I will have to face the same dilemma on how to display my Victory. Hmmm....decisions, decisions. Craig
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