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CDW
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Hello Nigel I am currently building the DeAgostini Victory kit and am about half way through it. I can only compare my experience with it to other kits I have built, and it is a favorable comparison to any other similarly priced kit. It has been my experience with this and other ship kits that the hardware sometimes can leave me with something better to be desired. Not totally bad mind you, but it could be better. For me and considering the experience (or lack thereof) I bring to the table, it's good. Could it be better? Yes. I can tell you with certainty the planking included in my kit is not basswood. Instead, it is birch. Is this better or worse? I do not know. However I can say that the planking will require some care and patience to properly finish. This could perhaps be said of any kit, in reality. But there is no secondary or veneer planking included to cover up poor work on the first layer of planking. The step by step instruction booklets are wonderful, worthy of saving in a binder for future reference. If you can acquire this kit for something less than $600, it would be a good deal in my opinion. As it has already been said, you can buy the AL version of this same kit for around the $600 mark, so I would not pay more than that. Again to repeat, I am satisfied with my kit to this point. It's a challenge (for me) to be sure. Regards Craig
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Sal Your Syren build thread is so good and the pictures of it so nice, that I HAD to go and buy the Syren kit for myself. You're doing a great job on it, that's for sure. I'll need to go through your thread with a fine tooth comb to see if you replaced any of the kit-supplied material. Regards Craig- 659 replies
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Working with Hull Planks on Model Space HMS Victory Kit
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Wood ship model kits
Thanks, Mike. I am going to try the ammonia and dishwashing soap w/boiling water. It's worth a try. Some of the planks are super-hard, some are medium and lend themselves well to bending. Others have a loose grain that wants to splinter and break apart very easily. The planks provided are just of inconsistent grade (if that's the correct term). The hard stuff, I've been using as the straight planks, which works out fine. It's the medium ones that are more sparsely provided, but make the best candidates for bending. Craig -
I am currently building the HMS Victory kit offered by Model Space (DeAgostini). I am finding that many of the wood planks provided in the kit have a strong tendency to splinter when bending them after soaking in water, then using a heat tool designed for plank bending. I am wondering if this is a common problem with inferior wood planks, or is it something I am doing wrong? I tend to think it has something to do with poor planks, as it doesn't happen all the time, but with certain planks. Are there planks available that have more consistent quality, or is this something where the modeler must evaluate each piece and replace as necessary. It has gotten to the point that I can reasonably predict which planks are going to give me problems, just by looking at the grain before starting the bending process. But I guess I am one of those guys who are reluctant to throw out questionable quality planks. Perhaps this has to do with my lack of experience and failure to trust my own judgment. What would be considered a good replacement candidate for the kit planks? I am not 100% certain what type of wood the planks provided in the kit are cut from. Thanks Craig
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Work station clutter
CDW replied to Senior ole salt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ha - A day or two ago, I rushed into our bedroom, frantically looking for my cell phone as I needed it to look up an address. My wife asks what I am looking for, and I answer, "my cell phone." She sorts of laughs and at the same time looks at me with consternation while saying, "it's in your hand and you're talking on it, dummy." Sadly, that's another true story. Regards Craig -
Thanks guys. I will definitely wait until I read some reviews, first. A friend has a very good, old, high quality lathe he wants me to have, so I will go with that instead. The "multi-tool" part of the subject tool would just be more of a novelty than actually practical from the way it sounds. If it is low quality on top of that, then it would be a total waste of money. Regards Craig
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I recently became aware of this 8-in-1 power tool that's now available in warehouses in the USA, offered by Hobby King. Like most of their products, it's probably made in China. But I am wondering if it might serve useful as a ship modeling tool, being 8-in-1. Right now, I do not own a lathe, and am curious if it might prove useful for the various times when I could use a lathe to fashion certain ship hardware and wooden parts. All the other functions would be icing on the cake for me. Does anyone here have any first hand knowledge of the machine or otherwise have enough power tool knowledge to assess its usefulness by the given product specs? Sadly, I don't have enough knowledge or experience to give it a fair hearing just based on the specs. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__87843__Big_Power_Mini_Metal_8_In_1_Kit_HK_US_Plug_US_Warehouse_.html Thanks Craig
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These are the #11 blades I buy for my X-Acto handles. $14.99 for 100, and made in the USA. They hold a great edge and are cheap at .15 cents each. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL447&P=0 For cutting lighter items such as fabric or certain light plastics/mylar, I prefer high-carbon surgical scalpel blades. However, I find these surgical scalpels a little on the light side for wood working projects unless it's very light balsa or similar. But beware! They are very, very sharp! http://www.havels.com/original-carbon-steel-surgical-scalpel-blades-sc11.html Craig
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So, what do you think, Mike. Is it cutting out the ports or the cutting and fitting of the port liners that most closely resemble "watching paint dry"? I know these are necessary steps in the construction of our model ships, but man, it can be a real drag. Take care of that thumb, Mike. The ship is looking great! Craig
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Hey Cannon Fodder I loved your Emma Berry so well, I went and bought one today. Model Expo had it on sale for 50% off and I could not pass that deal up. They also had the Syren on sale for 50% off, but someone beat me to the "buy-it-now" button. Craig
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What a beauty! I had no idea this ship model was this nice, and the author is doing a fantastic job on it. Model Expo should give him a few kudos for showing off their product in such a favorable and well deserved light. Excellent in every way. Craig
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Well, darn it. I'll just have to drink beer on St Patty's Day now that cabbage is in short supply. Or maybe a good Irish whiskey.
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I've been wondering, what exactly is that wood used for the planking on the Victory model? In the past, AL models I built employed a double planking, and the first planks were Limewood. But these don't seem to be Limewood, but something much harder. I love the way your Montanes is coming out. Craig
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I know the feeling well. Having just finished cutting all those gun ports on my Victory model, I am ready for a little R&R.
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The new (or old) Victory Colours
CDW replied to JRB9019's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Historical or not, I am just not fond of the "new" color. Based on personal preference and not the science of paint color analysis, I will choose the "old" color for mine. Besides, 99.9% of the people I know who may see my model, won't care one whit whether the color is perfectly historical or not, neither will they know the difference. Especially if they just glance at it while riding past on a galloping horse. -
If a build log is downloaded, does it include the attachments (pictures) as well as the text? I've often wondered if there is a way to view all the attachments associated with a thread without scrolling through every single page and clicking on each individual picture.
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Thanks for clarifying that, Mike. Everything you said makes perfect sense. One thing I'm finding particularly annoying is the lack of plans in the Model Space version of this kit. As you can imagine, you often find yourself flying by the seat of your pants because you cannot "see" the dimensions or other particulars that come in later stages, because the parts packs are sent out one month at a time. Right now, I have no idea what size wood will be provided for the gun port linings.
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Mike I read where you enlarged the gun ports on your Victory, but didn't see where you stated the dimensions of the enlarged openings. The plans call for 12 mm x 12 mm openings, so do you recall what your modified gun ports measured? If I can avoid it, I would like to modify mine now, before I do the linings. Regards Craig
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Brian I haven't started any construction on it at all. Everything is still in the delivery packages. You're looking for construction progress photos I assume. Right? Regards Craig
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After reading your post, I tried a forstner bit for the first time today. Works like a charm. Thanks Craig
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I got my first model when I was about 5 years of age. I put it together over and over again using scotch tape. Loved that 1st model. Here I am now at 62 years of age, and I've advanced to actually using glue, but I still love it! When I get tired of it (building models), I put it down and do something else for a while. I always come back to it later when I feel like it. And it always keeps me happy, no matter how much attention to detail I place in it. But that's just me.
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Sal Such a great-looking model. You are doing an outstanding job on it. Regards Craig
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That's disappointing to hear. My Akagi instructions are also nowhere near as nice as the Victory instructions. However, the model seems to be unique and I can find no other production of it by another company name. It may be exclusive.
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Working on the same task right now...cutting the gun ports in my 1:84 Victory. Have found that drilling a number of small holes, then cutting/trimming to the pencil lines with a sharp X-Acto blade, then finishing off with a sanding stick, is the best solution I've found to tackle the job. Have found it is very important to keep a sharp blade in the knife. Change them often. If you even think the blade might be getting dull, it is dull. Change it. A sharp blade makes the job so much better. After about 5 ports are cut, it's time to change the blade. I know that makes for a lot of blades used, but it's worth it in the long run. Your model looks great! Regards Craig
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