JeffT

Looking good Vane!
 
Those fragile stern frames were a headache for me. I didn't want to make them so thick that they would draw the eye from the rest of the model, but also needed to be robust enough to take the stern and side patterns. I could not use any kind of wood due to grain problems, they would break even easier and more often. This is why they are MDF, and also why I made sure in the instructions to tell the modeller to glue the stern patterns to the frames ASAP. The original designs for the 4 stern frames was a lot more robust, but found their oversized protrusions too out of kilter with the general fidelity and scale of the model overall - kind of like putting a 48th scale capstan on a 64th scale kit.. But, they are fragile, but just on the right side of acceptably so, I think.

First planking done and I have just had the kit abit more than a week. What I like about Speedy is that Chris have made many new design solutions that really make it easier and faster to build. A few observations so far:
1) Pre-made rabbit to support the first planking. 
2) Laser cut holes from "the wrong side" so you dont need to measure
3) The precut walls comes in 2 pieces 
4) MDF skeleton with many very close bulkheads
5) Only identified weakness so far are these 4 very fragile pieces that easily break during assembly. The would perhaps be made in a different mtrl than MDF?
 
Now its time to start with the 2nd planking in boxwood. Here he has also clear markings on where the first board should be placed so nothing to measure... 🙂

Minerva is one of my favorite models.  It always serves to inspire me.  Here is my version (a little hesitant to place my wok against such a masterful contemporary model) of the shingled roof left natural.  I kind of prefer the natural look.  But I will sleep on it a bit.  What do you guys think.  I think the dark roof is too "in your face".  But I could be wrong.  Note how thin the shingles are sanded after each row is completed.  These are boxwood shingles.
 

Tonight’s work was to set the stern frames, glue the tick strips, and fit the window guides into place.  Next time I get to the shipyard, I’ll work on the sills and lintels.

The reason why I havent just completed the quarter gallery is simple.  I want to make a nice clean edge between the quarter gallery roof, rail and the painted frieze.  This means the frieze along the hull needs to go on first.  I am still testing and tweaking that.  But first...the 3/32" wide fancy molding must be scraped and glued on the hull.  This will be our guide for the friezes.  I am just talking about the middle molding.  Once glued in position, you will be able to sit the frieze on top of it as shown.  The thinner frieze can be butt against it along the bottom as well.
 
Then to finish it off the you will be able to use the friezes as a guide to place the remaining molding in position.  This is the next step for me.  Once this is completed I will then get back to finishing the fancy rail on the roof of the quarter gallery.
 
Once this is done on both sides of the hull, I will then start finishing the stern transom with all of the carvings and columns.  When that is all done it will complete chapter three.  But there is a lot of work involved with all this stuff so it will take several weeks at least.  I have stop work this weekend though because I am leaving for New Orleans yet again!!!  Second attempt at some fun and relaxation.  Here is a look at the testing so far!!!  The friezes are not glued on yet as I am still tweaking them.  They are just resting on the molding.
 
 

Yes I agree, I dont think that would work or even look good.  I just spray it with some fixative and it looks good to me.  If you wanted to, you could always use it as a paint by numbers sort of thing and just paint on top of the printed frieze.  But I think the printout looks better than anything I have seen short of just painting it from scratch.
 
I did finish the roof today...
 
The roof is laser cut and 1/4" thick.  It has a laser etched reference line to show you where to bevel it to the "sloped" shape needed.

Then I used some laser cut shingles and added them to the roof.   Three rows as is typical.  After each row starting with the bottom, I sanded the shingles very thin....paper thin almost.  The tops were sanded flush with the roof to accept the next row.  Then I repeated it....until completed.  There are marks on each shingle to help you position the second and third rows.

Then the roof and tiles was painted black.  But the tiles are more of a dark slate gray.  So I weathered them a bit so it wasnt a stark black.  Then I added a thin molding on top as you can see.  This is also laser cut but it also needs to be sanded thinner.  1/32" is too thick.  I sanded it to about 1/64" thick.
 


 
At this stage I still havent glued the shingled roof in position.  So resist the urge.  Before finishing up this quarter gallery I want to now start on the one on the port side.  Once that is completed up to this stage I will finish the both of them.  The fancy rail along the roof still needs to be added.  But that is better done after the friezes are glued to the sides of the hull.  So I have to finish those up first.  And finally some inspiration and reference which you can compare to my interpretation.  Although I used the draft to correct any differences with the contemporary model.
 


 
 
Chuck
 
 

Welcome to MSW Capt. Mike 

The complete set of ivory-windowframes is now clean. But before installing them on the model there is still a lot of planking to do.

Yankee Hero is a great choice.  Looks like it is coming along fine.  Welcome aboard!

Thanks for all the support and encouragement
 
I have in fact started a build log for YANKEE HERO, not that I expect anybody but utter novices to learn anything from it!
 
If I have learned anything in my first two days it was that reading the instructions all the way through BEFORE STARTING was a great idea, and reading them again and again is an even better one.

Hi Mike,
You will get all the encouragement in the world here and great advice as well.  Welcome to the team, you just picked up thousands of new friends, and advisors!!
 
Allan

Welcome mike!  I’ve gotten about 20” of snow so far and they are saying snow for a few more hours.  

Hello Mike, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'.
 
John

Good start, Mike.  I hope you'll do a build log.

Welcome!  I agree, good start!

Good morning all. On this snowy day in Massachusetts, I am tackling my first-ever ship model.
 
I am 55 now and built my last models in my early teens (Revel and Monogram models of WW2 tanks, battleships and planes). So it's been a while since I had to pick Testors model glue off the pads of my fingers. Fortunately in the 40 years since then I helped build and now operate a traditional gaff-rigged schooner. So at least I know how these things go together, and what they're supposed to look like, in the real world. If I lacked that knowledge, I think I might find even the very simple model I have chosen (novice kit of YANKEE HERO from Bluejacket) to be overwhelming.
 
That's not to say my first model won't be my last, as Chris Coyle warned in his excellent post, but I'm jumping in today! Wish me luck.
 
Capt. Mike

I guess there will soon be many happy customers waiting at the door! I have decided to put my other builds on a slight hold just to see how this Speedy will look like with a built hull and some details. 
 
I cant wait to hear what is coming next from Vanguards 🙂

OK, I have booked the UPS pick up for Speedy PE parts from Italy today, and I should receive them tomorrow. They will need to be prepared for each kit, so all ordered kits will be ready to send on Monday, all being well.
 
I have also been accepted for the funding of a high end laser/engraver machine, which I will be getting within the next few weeks. This is quite an investment, but feel it is essential if I am to continue.

Another update: I've finally finished rigging the guns, installing pin racks, and installing chocks. I still have a few deck details that need to be finished such as the steps on the interior transom and bow area and the fife rails. I'm going to make a list and try to organize into what order I should do them in. I also need to finish the top gallant rail.
 
 
 


 

Just a quick update.  I finally got the upper & lower port sills added along with all of the sides.

The last couple days I have been working on the stern framing.  I think it turned out pretty good.  Chucks templates really help a lot in getting things to line up and make sure the openings are the right size. 
Definitely made things a lot easier....



Time to so some more sanding and some more faring so I can get moving along with the quarter gallery framing.
One step at a time......
 

Raising the ribs

 
And adding some spacers (the spacers in my kit were not actually squared - very slightly trapezoidal - so I cut new one from the waste part of the sheets)
 

Another update: I've finally finished rigging the guns, installing pin racks, and installing chocks. I still have a few deck details that need to be finished such as the steps on the interior transom and bow area and the fife rails. I'm going to make a list and try to organize into what order I should do them in. I also need to finish the top gallant rail.
 
 
 


 

Another update: I've finally finished rigging the guns, installing pin racks, and installing chocks. I still have a few deck details that need to be finished such as the steps on the interior transom and bow area and the fife rails. I'm going to make a list and try to organize into what order I should do them in. I also need to finish the top gallant rail.
 
 
 


 

As anticipated, we returned to New Jersey for Thanksgiving. While there, I got a great deal of the rigging done. I probably would have finished, but for discovering that I was 1 deadeye short (probably lost in transport between Jersey and Florida at some point). That means that completion will have to wait for our next trip north, which isn't likely to be until late spring or even summer. In the meantime, I also have to get 1 deadeye. 
 
In any event, the attached photos show the model in it's almost completed state, lacking 1 shroud, final tying off of some lines and rope coils.
 
Bob

Hi everyone!
Today, I am very happy to see that Mr. Chuck released his photos of drop and figure soldiers assembled on the quarter Gallery, because this is my biggest concern. With 3D simulation, it can match the actual model without face-to-face communication and modification. In fact, Mr. Chuck didn't give me any detailed bodyplan. He asked me to calculate it from the original draught... 
 
 
This is the body part of all the figure heads in the first batch.
 

And the first one of arm part made today.



Jack