Bob Fraser

We have a Cricut Explore 3 - the machine is tied to the software for conectivity because of proprietary drivers, and the Cricut Design Space software is tied to the internet either via PC and USB, or the app version which connects via bluetooth to the machine.  You can design in other art / graphics software and then import.

We also have another machine, the Sillhouette Curio.  This is very similar to the Cricut in what it does with a couple of plusses.  The Silhouette Studio software isn't tied to the internet, and the machine isn't tied to the software, there are several other softwares that can connect to it. 

They can both do things the other can't. Both can use a range of non-oem pens and cutters with adaptors.

Cricut will import only SVG and DXF in it's free software, while Silhouette will import DXF, PNG, BMP, JPG, GIF, GSD and TIFF (SVG in a paid version). Both will do more filetypes in the paid versions. In both programs DXF will open with the lines of the design ready to be marked for operations, as will SVG, all other files will need to be traced with the software (needs clearly defined lines) but is relatively easy to do.

The Curio will cut up to 2mm wood, as will the Explore, but both need several passes and higher pressure settings to do so. Corners and curves are well cut.

We have both only because they were going being sold off cheap by people who no longer needed them, and they came with loads of materials and tools. My other half said "I need them for my makes, and you can use them too!"

Having only had these a matter of a few weeks I tried both for some small cutting and drawing I found the Curio the easier of the two to use, but I've a long learning curve.

If buying new neither machine comes with much in the way of tools, and Cricut oem are relatively expensive items.

If you're looking to buy one, check out your needs and match them to a model in the available ranges that can do what you want.

She also said a laser cutter / engraver would come in handy for her projects so now I've got that one to learn as well, with Lightburn being the software of choice - while building an enclosure and extraction duct for smoke and vapours.

Got to say, they don't give the best of instructions. 

I have the Cutty Sark under way and had to use a lot of filler and shaping to get the lines looking anywhere near right.

(Stopped for now as life got in the way but will continue soon I hope.)

Use the photo of the ship on the box front to see what you may need to do. 

Looks like a lot of filling and shaping to get the lines in the photo.

Dave asked earlier if the spreadsheet could be re-written to account for the foremast discrepancy.

I've managed to get the spreadsheet so it's unprotected, made it so you can see the rows/columns and sheet tabs.  Also frozen some headers so they don't get lost.

The calculations can now be seen and followed, but they seem to go round in circles to me (probably just me not seeing it right).

Would an Excel wizz like to have a go?

Masting and Rigging - Danny Vadas - open.xlsm

Forgot to mention you'll likely get some warnings about active code. These will need to be allowed to run it properly.

Hi Dave.

This is the DV spreadsheet on Windows view of the masting sizes for Diana as per the contract - available at the nmm here Artois Contract

Using Extreme Breadth as 39' and length of lower deck as 146'

Steel gives the same main mast length as the spreadsheet, 1745 Establishment as 88.92'

There were amendments to the 1745 Establishment for larger ships in the intervening times.

Using Lees the 1/64 diameter comes to 10.80mm

Does the same for my little sloop, too!

You'd need to do the math for the other given sizes of the fore to work out if there are any other differences.

The spreadsheet is protected from editing, and I'm not a genius with spreadsheets.

Hi Allan, Dave.

Allan - I'd seen that comment about the dates before, but couldn't remember it fully. Thanks for the reminder.

As you say, a fantastic resource.

I'm no expert or have extensive experience in these calculations, and my use has only been with this one ship.

The ship I based my comment on was a RN sloop built 1756/57 and would most likely have been built to the 1745 Establishment, quick mast drawing measurements taken with a brass caliper.

I would imagine that you are aware of all the different calculations over the 18th Century 🤣  I wasn't at all except for the 1745 Establishment, and was surprised by the variations 🤯

I was hospitalised last year for 10 days with covid and while I was there I did a little research on the sloop to give some working mast dimensions. but only from 1711 to 1794, and came up with the following table of authors.

Purely for my own benefit!

--------------------------

Dimensions for Bonetta 1756 as designed -

Deck 85’10”, Breadth 24’ 4”, Depth in Hold 10’ 10”, Keel 78’ (as per Ollivier)¹, 220 ^40/94 tons (profile plan ZAZ4368 RMG)

Dimensions for Bonetta as built -

Deck 86ft 4in, Breadth 24’ 6”, Depth in Hold 10’ 10”, calculated Keel 78’5”, 227^60/94 tons (Winfield, 2007)

RD is Range of Lower Gun Deck or upper deck on a single deck, EB is Extreme Breadth, DIH is Depth in Hold, K is Keel length, BMF is Beam Multiplication Factor.

** EB+DIH in feet, multiply by 2 and then divide by 5 = length in yards. Multiply by 3 = feet and part.

------------------------

Hoping my calculations above are right, Dannys spreadsheet first entry for a sloop is 1794, and his calculations came out as 55' 7" to 3 decimal places, 55' 6" to 2 decimals for the inches part as input.

Looks like the 1745 Establishment is used up to at least that date in the spreadsheet, as per Lees. Steels dimensions come out smaller.

I have the Lees and Marquardt books, Love, Monceau, Mountaine, Sutherland are available as Google books.

Dave - I think even an XP based laptop with Excel on it will run the spreadsheet.

BTW, a distant cousin of mine captained Diana in 1799!

4 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

but I was unable to use the buttons on the front of the sheet

Hi Dave.

This is because Dannys sheet uses active-x controls to do some of the calculations.  Google sheets doesn't alow the use of active-x.

I don't think it will run on a Chromebook, Office 365 on line also doesn't use active-x controls.

You'll need you use Excel on a PC to open the spreadsheet to get it to work as it should. 

I just ran a quick check (Dannys) and measured the results against an NMM print I have which came out exact to the drawing.

Billings boats direct - Cutty Sark  topright of the blurb are links to instructions and riging manual

12 hours ago, Cleat said:

I found it difficult to work the rigging while the mast and gangway moved around.  Parts of the routing didn’t make sense; I wasn’t sure where some lines ended.

ALs rigging diagram is a bit confusing, took a while using the big picture and the photo manual.

12 hours ago, Cleat said:

adjusted the lines to get the gangway to the proper height but between sorting out the spaghetti of lines and taking up slack it had moved.

I opted to be awkward and installed 2 of the things! 1 up and 1 lowered, the height can be a personal choice. whatever looks good to you.

Coming together nicely.  Neat job on the mast block!

Iron on transfer paper might work - use it with an ordinary inkjet. I've used this on t-shirts but not on silkspan.

Sublimation printing works the same way but needs special inks in a dedicated printer on sublimation paper, can work with an iron, but usually a heat press.

52 minutes ago, Cathead said:

Or you can use a tiny dab of glue on the end of the line, which you can then shave into a sharp point with a knife.

That's what I used, except I made the glue 1/2 inch to 1 inch long to act as a needle to hold, rather than holding a flexible line when threading the block.

Much easier when you've got fat fingers like me! 🤣

The needle threader doubled the line thickness and I couldn't pull it through most of the supplied blocks as the holes were too small.  Even with the glue method some holes had to be widened with a micro drill just a little.

Hi Cleat.

I used wire to attach the blocks to the mast.  My mistake, I'd advise against it as the wire snapped easily when tightening it up to the mast.

Your photo shows the wire running through the hole.  It, or the rope to attach the block to the mast, should run round the groove on the outside - the hole is for the rigging to run through.

The blocks, - 1 hole is a single block, 2 holes is a double block.

Have a look here - Working with small blocks  has some tutorials on attaching blocks.

Hope this helps.

It's what I used too.  Lay the wire along the length of it, fold the thing back into a triangle, squeeze it tight and pull the wire.

First pull will work with thinner wire, thicker may require 2 or more.  If there's still a curve to it do another pass with the curve pointing to the floor, but don't squeeze as tight.

Nicely done!

Noticed the pins in the bottom of the uprights - they helped me a lot in keeping stuff fixed in place 😃

Cheers,

Looking nice and neat!

1 hour ago, RossR said:

I think you can replace the collet on a dremel with a chuck that will hold smaller bits.   

I have one of these - very useful for a quick change and no need to change the collet. It's permanently fitted unless a bigger shaft collet is needed.

The only thing I would add is that if you have a Dremel then buy the Dremel accessory, not one that is compatible. 

More money, but I found the compatible one I bought had a slightly different thread and would have re-threaded the Dremel if I had forced it on.

On the other hand, a compatible flexible shaft fitted perfect 😵

I used superglue for most jobs on my Mississippi, with PVA / white / wood glues where stuff needed a little joggling about to fix.

In hindsight I found superglue - CA - soaks into the wood, especially the wider grained ones like mahogany, and causes discolouration.

Next proper build it will be alphatic or white wood glues, and spend a bit more time clamping and waiting, with CA only where absolutely needed.

When rigging a touch of CA on the end of the rope, cut to an angle, makes a great needle point for threading blocks etc.

You're right, building these isn't a race.  Someone on here has the tagline "wood is patient" and it's right.

Not sure about Occre, but AL only supplied just enough wood without allowing for mistakes, save the offcuts as they can be used to plank the cabin walls.

Cheers,

Pulling up a chair too!

Looking nice and neat.

The AL Mississippi was my first build.  I think the hardest part was getting all the stanchions to fit properly.

Looking good - I do like the lit look.

15 hours ago, Smokey030 said:

I will go back and add trim to all levels like the first floor currently has

They do make the cabins look a lot better too .... I did top and bottom, it hides a lot of things! 🤣

1 hour ago, Lieste said:

An Epson ET-2650 (A4 printer/scanner/copier)

Had mine for about 4 years now, with no real issues, just an occasional head clean.

Just caught up with you and following along.

Looking good!  As you say, a fun model to build, and your windows and lighting changes certainly enhance the model.

I found AL only supply just enough wood strips with no leeway for mistakes or alterations.

I got a notice that Macros were blocked due to trust issues, but was able to enable them from the notice displayed above the spreadsheet.

You can also try this.

Go to File -> Options.  Select Trust Center.  Click on Trust Center Otions.

Select Macro Settings, then select which setting you wish.

As you can see I have Disable with notifications set.

This will give the "enable notification" You can also set trusted locations so macros should work without issues.

Hopfully this will help.

1 hour ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  I think there used to be cocaine drops for teething woes.

 

Kaolin and Morphine over the counter for upset stomach. People were getting hooked on it as it was cheap until the Morphine addiction was realised and it was banned!

Edited by Robert Gardiner with consultant editor Brian Lavery. Published 1992, reprint 1993 and 1994 (My copy) Priced at £28 when printed, Amazon today new at £30.

With contributions by writers the editor, Lavery and Marquardt, he book brings together a general history of ships that sailed both in and out of the "line of battle" with each chapter is written by a different person  on varying types of ships over the time period.

There are also chapters on construction and fitting, again each written by someone knowledgable in that area.

Based around the Royal Navy it does ave passing mentions to other nations particularly where their designs influence British ones.

The chapters are specific to what they are titled, each giving an overall picture of the subject through the time period.

The photographs are black and white, and there are many drawings and plans included to illustrate each subject.

Being general it doesn't go into great detail on each subject, but covers it deep enough to pique your interest into looking deeper with the books listed in the bibliography (seperate ones for each chapter).  Written 30 years ago it doesn't have references to any of the more recent books on specific subject matter that contain newer or different updated information.

It is an easy to read large format book that if you look around can be found at reasonable price point second hand, and I believe worth adding for general reference with leads to more specific resources.

2 hours ago, Meriadoc Brandybuck said:

Thank you for reaching out to Mr. Mclaughlin and getting an update on the state of research and the challenges facing a further volume. 

Not a problem. he seems a very amenable guy.  I have, however, accidentally misspelled his name - its McLaughlan 🙄

2 hours ago, Meriadoc Brandybuck said:

I’ve been thinking about what could be done by aspiring scholars interested in picking up where the last volume left off, in collaboration with the author. The topic does remain sorely under-covered and stands as a glaring hole in our picture of the royal navy at the time, whose majority was made up of small patrolling or support craft. 

The development of the Sloop of War is probably a niche market within the niche of Age of Sail. 

From my own limited research, online primary from RMG and secondary from books, for a snow rigged sloop of 1756, one of the Thomas Slade  classes ofter he became Surveyor, the RN designs for the sloop of war at that time are getting bigger. They are also starting to become 3 masters, with the largest classed as a small 6th rate, losing the oars over the years, quarterdeck getting longer, losing the tiller etc over various classes.

Books on specific classes appear to be what most modellers want, such as David Antscherl and Greg Herberts Swan class series, and the lesser known one on the Cruiser class (Building Plank on Frame Models) by McCarthy, and of course the multitude on the Victory.

3 hours ago, Meriadoc Brandybuck said:

.......

I’m wondering if a different publisher could become interested in helping such a project along,  if one or more intrepid contributors were able to help assemble the needed research and images. I wish I was in a better position to offer more than simple words!

We have the ability to coordinate online across oceans, if only we could get the NMM and other institutions to send us all they have on the subject matter!  Or upload it in a searchable way. 

A large project you've outlined there, one that would need considerable time and access to original sources, some knowledge of the types being researched, someone to co-ordinate, and of course someone, or a collaboration, to put it all together into a coherent readable book or books that a publisher would want.  Like yourself the only one I could think of was Seawatch, but maybe Conway too. We can but live in hope.

Distance and cost, with a lack of expertise puts me out the frame for any of the above jobs.

Just my 2p worth of thoughts.